A few tidbits of observations.
- the 2.1 cm f/4 Nikkor will *not* mount to the FTZ adapter. In essence good as this prevents a destruction of the adapter.
- the various old fisheyes with long rear ends will all mount and work well. Tried with 7.5/5.6, 8/8, 10/5.6 OP. No more "fooling" the reflex mirror!
- non-AI lenses such as the 50/2 will mount and operate properly. This implies a new spring for the oldest Nikkors.
Judging from what I can read (but have not been following very carefully), if the Z-series Nikon mirrorless had arrived four years ago, I probably would have not switched to Fuji, but I have now reached a state of "good enough" and am not that interested in more purchases, including of Fuji gear.
Unless I win the lottery and have cash to burn, it is now late.
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To put things in perspective, the L-bracket for my Olympus E-M1.2 is very nearly a perfect fit for the Z7. The Z7 is the same width as the Olympus m43, but the body is a tad thicker and the viewfinder a bit fatter due to the FX coverage.
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An Olympus E-M1.2 eh? :o I did not realise that you also had one of these machines from the dark side (yep, I have one as well and I also have the older E-M1 Mk 1).
Is your L-Bracket for the Olympus the two piece unit from RRS? In searching for Olympus E-M1.2 L-Brackets, it is the only one that appeals to me. How have you found yours?
I got the Olympus and the 7-14/2.8 lens for an underwater housing. Needed something "smaller" for my current project, which involves a lot of (air) travel. The camera works for the intended purpose, but otherwise I'm not particular smitten by it, to be honest, and the image quality leaves somewhat to be desired as well.
The L-bracket isn't RRS, but is in two pieces. Actually I got it on the whim that I might be using the Olympus system also for general photography, but any such thoughts were quickly put to rest once the Nikon Z6/Z7 were announced.
A few more examples with the 35/1.8 + Z7 package from downtown Oslo today. 800 ISO and camera run on auto everything. These are jpgs delivered by the Z7. No change except for downsizing to fit the NG pages plus setting the profile to sRGB.
Other tidbit of information is I now have been allocated a Z6 so that camera will arrive in the not too-distant future. The Nikon rep I spoke to had noticed my annoyance of being at the rear end of the delivery queue for the Z7 thus probably wanted to improve our relationship? I appreciated that gesture.
Just received confirmation that my Z6 ships in the next few hours (California time). FYI I ordered within the first 3 hours after orders were accepted.
Can't wait ;D
Birna, Lloyd Chambers has reported significant focus shift (https://diglloyd.com/blog/2018/20181019_1634-NikonZ30f1_8S-aseries-SageAspenAndWaterfall.html) with this lens. Do you have any thoughts or observations on this matter?
Lloyd Chambers reported that his 35/1.8S had a bad left side; I wouldn't trust conclusions about focus shift from that lens.
My copy of the 35/1.8S is sharp into the corners at f/1.8, and with negligible field curvature to boot.
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Note to self (added): apparently, mirrorless cameras are no guarantee against my usual -1.5 degree of camera tilt either...
Oh dear - I too often have this issue. I have resorted to programming one of the buttons on my cameras to display the levels (i.e. where the camera offers an electronic spirit level capability).
I have often wondered why manufacturers do not record the angle of tilt in the EXIF data so we can easily correct the tilt in each image where it is not desired.
I do the rotation in Photo Ninja - just plug in the "correct" angle and all is well. I'm surprisingly consistent as the numerical correction ranges from -1.3 to -1.6 degrees. I tried the level indicator in the finder as this feature is available of many of my cameras, but it bothers me more than helps. For tripod shooting the level can be helpful, though.
Haven't seen anything of the sort. The images so far have been crisply focused precisely as intended.
Well....good news....NikonUSA charged my credit card this morning for my Z6. Just waiting for the website to get updated order/tracking information.
Unless they ship it overnight (I highly doubt it), I'm guessing the Z6 and 24-70/4S should be in my hands Monday or Tuesday of next week.
/EXCITED!!
Do feel free to contribute to this thread when you lay hands on your own Z camera, Andrew. The more input the better.
Do feel free to contribute to this thread when you lay hands on your own Z camera, Andrew. The more input the better.
Excellent! I just ordered a 35 f/1.8 DX, I'm anxious to see how it renders on my D7200.
Still should be an excellent performer.
Compatibility F vs Z systems is unidirectional. F lenses can be used on Z via the FTZ or similar adapters, whilst Z lenses have far too short register distance to be on the F range. Besides, the electronics employed are widely different. Basically Z lenses are 'E' type i.e. aperture is operated electronically.
Amazing sharpness, you have a steady hand ;)My hands are notoriously unsteady -- long term use of asthma medication ensures that.
This would not have been possible without help from the VR
The VR surely works as advertised :)
I enjoy my faint memories of FM2 days on my current D750.
My hands are notoriously unsteady -- long term use of asthma medication ensures that.
my FM2 did 1/4000 s and 1/250 s flash sync
very impressive VR performance when needed.If you have 70-200E, or any G2 2.8 lens, you will realize immediately that your lens is outresolving Z6 sensor, what is not in case with Z7. Nothing wrong with that, as for me, but your opinion may vary. LZ
I fight with subject movement currently.
Looking forward for Z6 findings
If you have 70-200E, or any G2 2.8 lens, you will realize immediately that your lens is outresolving Z6 sensor, what is not in case with Z7. Nothing wrong with that, as for me, but your opinion may vary. LZ
I might be tempted to use the 1.4/105 at ISO 100k and f/1.4 in a theatre or church to show things difficult to show because of low light levels
But how would you focus? For low light shooting, CDAF in mirrorless is important, and Nikon Z do not use CDAF when adapted lenses are in use, only PDAF.
But how would you focus? For low light shooting, CDAF in mirrorless is important, and Nikon Z do not use CDAF when adapted lenses are in use, only PDAF.
Push the shutter release half down, or use AF-ON. Works with the 105/1.4 AFS even under very low light. Maybe the AF action isn't setting any speed record, but it hits the mark as it were and fairly quickly too.
In lighting conditions where using f/1.4 one requires ISO 102400 to get an acceptable exposure? I find that difficult to believe that there would be reliable focusing under such circumstances. Of course it also depends on the directionality of the light and the contrast on the subject. The subject, of course, may move in a theatre etc.
We have to make do with the actual lenses available until the might new 58/0.95 comes along??
With the Z7, I had no problems doing AF with the 105/1.4 AFS at f/1.4, 1/8 sec, 25600 ISO.
It may not be too far fetched, given the fact that a hybrid AF system only need a sufficient amount of contrast to be able to lock focus. Olympus has been doing it for quite some time in the m43 bodies (starting with the EM1.1) and Sony for a while as well. The PDAF is superior for knowing which direction to start focusing and contrast is superior for being able to lock down precise focus without the need for calibration.
Nikon Z6/Z7 don't use CDAF when an F mount lens is used (including the 105/1.4); only the PDAF sensors are used. That's why I am wondering how is it possible to work in such lighting conditions. I would expect the native lenses to be more confident in such circumstances because the image pixels are used to focus so there is more light that is used for focusing.
In lighting conditions where using f/1.4 one requires ISO 102400 to get an acceptable exposure? I find that difficult to believe that there would be reliable focusing under such circumstances. Of course it also depends on the directionality of the light and the contrast on the subject. The subject, of course, may move in a theatre etc.
When my Z6 arrives, I'll do a field test again to ascertain where the darkness limits are to any reliable focusing at all.
Lest Jakov should be disappointed, here is the 100mm f/1.6 Rodenstock on the Z7.
My first impressions of Z6 with 24-70 kit lens:
Anyway, more to come, but after reading many bad things about Z series cameras on the internet, I found it is exceeding my expectations.
I haven't seen "many bad things about Z series cameras" here. Quite the opposite! :)
This forum is remarkably free of trolls. Those Norwegians know how to keep them under control.
Anyone have any idea why Nikon is listing that the 35mm f/2.8 Nikkor-S Auto is not compatible with the FTZ adapter? Is it incapable of mounting or is there something I should know different? My curiosity is to protect myself from damaging the adapter.The Nikkor-S 35/2.8 rear lens protector is quite long between about 5 - 7 o'clock, maybe it extends too far and conflicts with the internals of the FTZ adapter. If so, I would expect other pre-AI lenses like the Nikkor-S 5cm/2 and Nikkor-S 5.8cm/1.4 to have similar limitations. Nikon is often over-cautious here, I'd be tempted to try - very gently - to see if it fits, if you encounter any resistance stop before you do any damage. if you do this with the adapter not attached to the camera, you can look through the rear to see what's going on.
A Z camera in one end of the recording chain, at the other end? who knows.
A Z camera in one end of the recording chain, at the other end? who knows.
dunno how you pictured this but the result is worth the effort
Picked up a Z6 + FTZ adapter set (not interested in the Z series lenses) this afternoon at a small 'brick and mortar' shop in 'the provinces' (at the main pro dealers in the Amsterdam/Rotterdam region this set already is on back order only a few days after the release date 8) )
As I don't plan to use the touch screen for changing the settings, just copied the options I have in the My Menu tab of my DSLR's (and a few extra for which the Z6 lacks the buttons) on the Z6
Must say it, maybe because of that, feels very familiar already after only a very few hours (much or which I spent setting up the My Menu tab), and really like it
Blazing bright sunlight = Df. Darker and darkness = Z6
Having hard thoughts what to do with the DF though, love the 'form' of it, and the IQ/image rendering of its sensor, but fear it won't see use in the future anymore
Luxury problems :)
Anyone have any idea why Nikon is listing that the 35mm f/2.8 Nikkor-S Auto is not compatible with the FTZ adapter? Is it incapable of mounting or is there something I should know different? My curiosity is to protect myself from damaging the adapter.
Also, one thing to not do....download the UPS Mobile app and then get sucked into watching the delivery truck bop about your neighborhood, get within 2 streets of your house, only to see it in the next minute to go the other direction and be 10 streets away! LOL Damn you,technology! :D
Carl: I am still asking myself what has a F-mount lens delivery to do with Nikon's mirrorless system?
is there going to be an official spreadsheet or thread where we list out the compatible f-mount lenses? I have the original Tamron 70-200mm f/2.8 VC and just tested it on the Z6. more hunting in our light then than on a DSLR, but it did AF, meter just fine. In case anyone wants to know about that lens.
Rather, completely inaccurate.
... I tried the AF functionality by focusing on Venus....wow, I'm impressed it focused on such a tiny dot
OK, a big question, (and I realize early days) , anyone planning of replacing their Df with a Z6/7? I love the Df but financially it might have to go to help fund new system. I use the MF Aids on my Sony a7rii and a7iii quite often with adapted lenses. I will keep the D500 for action, birds and sport. A couple of Df owners fell the metering, AWB, auto ISO and skin tones are at least as good on the Z6 and Z7 , thoughts?
Cheers,
Tom
OK, a big question, (and I realize early days) , anyone planning of replacing their Df with a Z6/7? I love the Df but financially it might have to go to help fund new system. I use the MF Aids on my Sony a7rii and a7iii quite often with adapted lenses. I will keep the D500 for action, birds and sport. A couple of Df owners fell the metering, AWB, auto ISO and skin tones are at least as good on the Z6 and Z7 , thoughts?
Cheers,
Tom
OK, a big question, (and I realize early days) , anyone planning on replacing their Df with a Z6/7? I love the Df but financially it might have to go to help fund new system. I use the MF Aids on my Sony a7rii and a7iii quite often with adapted lenses. I will keep the D500 for action, birds and sport. A couple of Df owners feel the metering, AWB, auto ISO and skin tones are at least as good on the Z6 and Z7 , thoughts?
Cheers,
Tom
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I've no idea why those you-tubers are tumbling over each other to burn the Z's to the ground.
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Oh, please start to sell you Dfs! :)
There is hardly ever any body for sale here (Sweden).
Last time I saw one the asking price was 12000 SEK.
Significantly, it has disappeared from the catalogue of "Le cirque" (one of the big Paris shops), whilst the Z6 and Z7 are there of course.Airy, Nikon India still lists the Df, at approx. $2500, but none of my dealers can get one.
Still hugging mine; Z6 will come when it passes away.
I have been trying the z6 for the last 3 days. I´m definitely keeping her.
Have never done this before but I´m going to try to summarize my experience so far and how is going to fit with my work. From the beginning hig iso performance, auto-focus and specially silent shooting were my primary concerns. It delivers in everyone of them.
ISO: better than the d750. Shooting at 1600-3200 is better in my eyes and it has at least equal and I thing more latitude in post. I´m using Capture NX-D for it and maybe it helps too. Images sooc look better anyway.
Here a singer at 3200 iso + 2.14 ev in post
I haven´t paid attention until you asked. It means is not difficult. As long as there is a bit of light the deep black lines on top and bottom are very clear. Even if there is no light, information icons in white, also top and bottom, go to the four corners and that, I realize just now looking, helps with framing in the dark.
There is always turning on the grid (item menu d9). It is made of white lines. It can be distracting but it works if needed.
The first image was a downscaled jpg straight off the camera. Afternoon winter sunshine is very soft, by the way.
Z6+ftz+helicoids+ring adaptor+el-nikkor 105mm 5.6. This combination has always being very dificult to focus. Any of the el-nikkors for that matter. Even with a split focusing screen, I have always to resort to liveview. Evf and easy magnification plus ibis makes it very very easy. The control over what is in focus is excellent. The struggle is over. I looked today for some subjects with details. I´ll not bore you with the many keepers -focus wise- One far, one closer and as close as possible with today´s gear. All at f8, all handheld. Having so many focus points to choose from there is no need to recompose.
The VR really works iff you really want it to. Otherwise, feel free to experiment.
Z7, 105/1.4 AFS, 100 ISO, setting sun behind frozen deciduous forest in my neighbourhood.
With any AF, AF-D, and AF-S lenses on the FTZ, as well as native Z-mount lenses directly on the Z camera, during composition, when you control the aperture with the sub-command dial, the lens' aperture actually closes down from the maximum to f5.6, but when you change the setting to something smaller such as f6.3, f8, f11, the aperture on the lens would not close further down below f5.6, during composition and metering. Hence we are using partial stop-down composition and metering.
I wonder if the same occurs with the Z lenses mounted directly on the camera?
Earlier today, I briefly tried the legendary 55mm f/1.2 Nikkor-O ('CRT') on my Z7. This is one of the exotic lenses generating a lot of speculation as to its 'Z' performance. Now, some questions can be answered. (observe: the adapter to Z is still very preliminary thus it's difficult to align the lens properly)
Can it focus to infinity? Yes
Does it cover the entire FX format towards infinity? No.
Is it sharp across the entire frame? No. Given it is optimised for approx. 1:4 magnification, that should be no surprise.
In fact, at f/1.2 the 55/1.2 CRT is quite sharp on axis and very much less so anywhere else. All this had been predicted in advance thus my test shot seems superfluous. However, surprises sometimes happen even though it didn't this time.
Another (semi-)legendary lens in the 'exotics' department is the Rodenstock 100 mm f/1.6.....
At infinity it looks a bit dismal, but I find it is still lovely close in:
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4885/45078363625_35f1d04550_h.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2bFqoZX)811_0161 (https://flic.kr/p/2bFqoZX)
That's good news, almost makes getting a Z camera worth it in itself. Thanks for sharing.Yes. agree. Thanks for the test !!
Another (semi-)legendary lens in the 'exotics' department is the Rodenstock 100 mm f/1.6. This has been a beloved lens for creating dreamingly blurry close-ups, when the lens is mounted on any ordinary DSLR. However, with the arrival of the Z range, this lens might be a better (in optical terms) performer.
My Rodenstock-Z adapter is again on the tinkering stage, but with the inclusion of a newly arrived helicoid, I could do a few night shots. It *will* focus to infinity on the Z camera, and it *will* deliver sharpness across the entire range. Good news for the owners of this heavy piece of glass.
The fluorescent lights in this night scene produce some blue colour fringing that probably would disappear under a better balanced light regime. Otherwise sharpness appears to be excellent and the bokeh qualities are exquisite.
ISO 3200.Thanks!😊
I have a question for NIkon Z7 owners. Using LiveView, I have not figured out how to leave it on permanently. It stays bright for many 20 seconds and then partially dims out. Anyone know how to make it stay on? Thanks in advance.
Set standby timer to no limit - in C3
Set standby timer to no limit - in C3
I'd only recommend this if the camera is run on A/C power. Otherwise battery drains fast.
(the Z's use the same A/C adapter and power supply as the D8xx and D500 series)
Individual preferences are non-negotiable, I suppose. As I already have Stackshot rail(s) and flash running off A/C, another cable is no hassle for me. I just dress the cables to be away from the main work area (in this case, work table).
Some examples of more obliging subjects not obscured by clutter (both Nikon Z7 + 70-200 f2.8E FL Nikkor):
Randy, nice Tolkien
I have really enjoyed the Z6 so far. One of my favorite features is the ability to assign the exposure compensation function to the focus ring on the lens. Makes it so easy to adjust the exposure, and with the EVF, I can see what is happening, without having to chimp all the time. I have other options for action shooting, but will give it a fair trial at my local bird sanctuary soon.
Cheers
Randy
Have an example of the effects of silent shutter mode on the Z6. This is a projector that showed on a white screen behind the singer. The background should be a solid blue with light blue circles.I note that the shutter speed was 1/500th. This kind of frozen partial display illumination is not unexpected at that shutter speed, be it global, rolling electronic, or traveling slit. The capture of this source might look radically different at 1/60, for example.
I note that the shutter speed was 1/500th. This kind of frozen partial display illumination is not unexpected at that shutter speed, be it global, rolling electronic, or traveling slit. The capture of this source might look radically different at 1/60, for example.
In reply to Woody, whose post has now dropped back a page. Just want to make sure that someone says what an engaging picture the photo of the little monkey is. Didn't want it to disappear into the thread without trace.
Other than that, don't own a Z6 or Z7, no plan to buy one. But will be glad to come back to all this information some time in the indefinite future if that seems like a good idea.
John
I have used the z6 and d750 today side by side with the 24-70 2.8 vr. There is a big difference in how both bodies handle the same lens. Z6 files look much clear, more spot on with the autofocus and I don´t know if there is some auto twerking of the images but the also make the same lens look sharper ??? Anyone has this kind of experience with this or other lenses?
D750 still has an AA filter, while Z6 doesn't. That could make difference. Z6 has the advantage of focusing simply because it focuses on the sensor itself. That said, I would check out the AF adjustment of D750 and/or the lens. Yes, Z6 doesn't need such a procedure, which is one of the great advantages of mirrorless system.
I thought the z6 did have low pass filter and z7 didn't. I'm going to look into af adjustment but I also tried the d750 with live view af and manual focus with 100%magnification, still difference.
I believe the Z6 DOES have an AA filter, while the Z7 DOES NOT. I feel that any sharpness gain between images is more likely due to focus accuracy of the contrast detect systems being able to fine tune the exact focus on the sensor plane.
I've noticed this on all the mirrorless cameras I've used. If you can dial in the PDAF on a DSLR with AF fine tune, they tend to not have any difference worth mentioning.
I have used the z6 and d750 today side by side with the 24-70 2.8 vr. There is a big difference in how both bodies handle the same lens. Z6 files look much clear, more spot on with the autofocus and I don´t know if there is some auto twerking of the images but the also make the same lens look sharper ??? Anyone has this kind of experience with this or other lenses?you meant tweaking ?
The 'Z' adapter for the mighty Oude Delft Rayxar 65 mm f/0.75 lens is now ready and I gave it a spin today.Beautiful portrait
Meet my friendly neighbour, Smret from Eritrea. She thought -3C was very cold and had attired accordingly. A perfect test subject for the 65/0.75.
(Z7, entire frame, downscaled)
Spiegel im Spiegel (or mirrorless on mirrorless)
The hauntingly beautiful almost unendurably meditative work "Spiegel im Spiegel" by Estonian composer Arvo Pärt emanates from my loudspeakers. I'm trying the 11-27.5 Nikkor (CX) on my Z7. There is control neither of aperture nor focusing, of course, but the combination makes an image never the less.
If you are not familiar with this music, try here,
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hV4LlCtvgwE
I'm in the same situation. I need to find some valid subjects for testing out the AF-C. AF-S I'm perfectly happy with.
Just, this time of year - those opportunities for me are few and far between. I might have to just go out and track some moving cars in traffic or something. lol
Isn't AF-C where Hogan reported that he had AF problems when the subject was in shade and the background was in the Sun?
I believe so, but I never use the fully automated focusibg modes. I'm normally in either single point or d9 or d25. Maybe group sometimes on the D500.
So if single point AF-C and the d9 equivalent are good, that is my question. And even then, this is going to be the wide to medium lensed camera. The D500 is going to be doing the heavy lift for for tracking action.
Birna, bravo. Again+1
B, ZZZ0411 is fascinating ....my eyes know what they are looking at but don't want to see. I have settled on it being a close up of polar bear fur in a snowstorm.
I have gone back to the image a few times and now that is all I can see. And yes I realise I am talking utter nonsense.
I'm still on the fence with regard to the Z6/Z7. There's a lot of stuff I really like about these cameras, and ever since using the 1V1 I really wanted to have a more capable mirrorless camera. Even tried an Olympus 4/3 for a while that didn't really work for me as I'm too used to the Nikon UI and couldn't be bothered with the Olympus UI. So the Z6/Z7 seems like the answer, especially because it can take all my old AIS lenses via the FTZ adapter. I'm not even bothered about the lack of EXIF data when using the adapter (none of my old manual lenses are chipped). I'm not a pro, and if the EDIF data are missing on my shots I'm not too worried.
However, most of my current F mount lenses are DX. I also rely, at least to some extent, of the reach of the smaller sensor for wildlife photography. I know I can shoot the new Nikons in DX mode, however, with the Z6 (the model I'm most interested in) that would cut the resolution to ~10 megapixels. So I'd have to either get a couple of FX lenses or rely on my old AIS lenses.
That leads to my question: I've seen quite a few shots taken with AIS lenses - but how easy is it to focus them on the Z6? And how fast can you focus an old manual lens on the Z6/Z7? I find focussing my old lenses on my Nikon DSLRs pretty tedious as I find I can't really rely on the green dot, especially not in bad light.
The lenses I'm thinking of are my old longer lenses like the AIS 5.6/400 IF-ED, the 4.5/300 IF-ED and possibly the 5.6/600 IF-ED, but also the 4/105 Micro. I'd also use all my other old AIS lenses of course, like the 2/35mm, the 2,8/55mm micro and so on ... All these lenses have been sitting in my cupboard for years now, and getting a Nikon Z may give them a new lease of life. If the focusing is fast enough and reliable.
Hermann
I'm still on the fence with regard to the Z6/Z7. There's a lot of stuff I really like about these cameras, and ever since using the 1V1 I really wanted to have a more capable mirrorless camera. Even tried an Olympus 4/3 for a while that didn't really work for me as I'm too used to the Nikon UI and couldn't be bothered with the Olympus UI. So the Z6/Z7 seems like the answer, especially because it can take all my old AIS lenses via the FTZ adapter. I'm not even bothered about the lack of EXIF data when using the adapter (none of my old manual lenses are chipped). I'm not a pro, and if the EDIF data are missing on my shots I'm not too worried.
However, most of my current F mount lenses are DX. I also rely, at least to some extent, of the reach of the smaller sensor for wildlife photography. I know I can shoot the new Nikons in DX mode, however, with the Z6 (the model I'm most interested in) that would cut the resolution to ~10 megapixels. So I'd have to either get a couple of FX lenses or rely on my old AIS lenses.
That leads to my question: I've seen quite a few shots taken with AIS lenses - but how easy is it to focus them on the Z6? And how fast can you focus an old manual lens on the Z6/Z7? I find focussing my old lenses on my Nikon DSLRs pretty tedious as I find I can't really rely on the green dot, especially not in bad light.
The lenses I'm thinking of are my old longer lenses like the AIS 5.6/400 IF-ED, the 4.5/300 IF-ED and possibly the 5.6/600 IF-ED, but also the 4/105 Micro. I'd also use all my other old AIS lenses of course, like the 2/35mm, the 2,8/55mm micro and so on ... All these lenses have been sitting in my cupboard for years now, and getting a Nikon Z may give them a new lease of life. If the focusing is fast enough and reliable.
Hermann
Is there a possibility to use the Auto Focus for AF-D lenses in the future?
That leads to my question: I've seen quite a few shots taken with AIS lenses - but how easy is it to focus them on the Z6? And how fast can you focus an old manual lens on the Z6/Z7? I find focussing my old lenses on my Nikon DSLRs pretty tedious as I find I can't really rely on the green dot, especially not in bad light.
The lenses I'm thinking of are my old longer lenses like the AIS 5.6/400 IF-ED, the 4.5/300 IF-ED and possibly the 5.6/600 IF-ED, but also the 4/105 Micro. I'd also use all my other old AIS lenses of course, like the 2/35mm, the 2,8/55mm micro and so on ... All these lenses have been sitting in my cupboard for years now, and getting a Nikon Z may give them a new lease of life. If the focusing is fast enough and reliable.
Hermann
A few quick thoughts - if Z series is successful (I think it has been so far) there likely will be APC format Z cameras in the future.
Focusing manual lenses on the Z6 is as good or better than DSLR. The ability to zoom the viewfinder with the touch of a button is very helpful.
In body image stabilization makes it possible to calm shaky hands or take photos in low light. I was just trying some shots this morning and it looks like with some luck - exposures handheld at 1/2 second are possible.
Towards the evening the promised snow fall commenced. I spent an enjoyable hour driving my little red car on snow-filled slippery roads, with the car stereo at full blast doing Marek Bilinski: "Po Drugiej Stronie Światła"* from the album ''E = MC2''. Haven't had this much fun in a long time, very invigorating and a reminder of why I love this country so much.thanks for your thoughts re the camera, the music is most agreeable!
Snow depicted with Z7 + FTZ + 200/2 AFS (800 ISO, f/2, 1/10 sec, hand held).
* https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TvCmmXUr36E
Isn't AF-C where Hogan reported that he had AF problems when the subject was in shade and the background was in the Sun?
Don't the Z bodies let you input the focal length of the attached MF lenses, so that the movement of the stabilization is optimized for the lens? All Panasonic and Olympus bodies with IBIS have that function...
Indeed it does and it is perfectly fine in normal viewing mode. What I'm referring to is the amplification of the stabilization movement at 100% or 200% focus peaking. With the 600mm, for something as small as a blue tit at 17 meters, the amplitude is still too large at 200%, at least for my rather unsteady hand. I can manage 400mm though.
The 35-200/3.5~4.5 Nikkor is the first one of the older lenses that I feel is not entirely up to the challenge of the Z7's 45 MPix sensor. I did some landscapes at 200mm setting and they became quite soft. However, at close range results were much better. Perhaps this is a lens better suited to the Df?My D500 and D800 also have problems with snow, tend to underexpose, May even more than -1, my D700 was spot on in the scenery.
I also notice that matrix metering of the Z7 tends to underexpose snow scenery. That was somewhat unexpected as the motif should be easy to handle by the matrix metering algorithm. The exposures is consistently -1 EV off. Well within the dynamic range of the Z camera, of course, but food for thought nonetheless.
Has anyone found a way to get out of magnified view by half pressing the shutter button? This is the way it is implemented in all mirrorless cameras I know (Sony, Panasonoic, Olympus), but by default the Z7 requires a second push on the chosen magnify button.
A few quick shots with the 400/5.6, handheld, leaning on a wall.
I find it quite handholdable. 100% and 200% zoom are useable despite the stabilization shake. At first, it was strange to not see the image becoming stable when VR kicks in but I easily got used to it. I did shoot this in "real life" conditions, as I would be out in the woods with little time to focus. Absolutely no esthetic consideration, my only goal was to assess how stabilization and focus work.
An extension tube for the Z range seems a useful gadget to have, if it is equipped with pass-through contacts.
...................................
An extension tube for the Z range seems a useful gadget to have, if it is equipped with pass-through contacts.
A set of modern day metal extension tubes with pass through contacts for the F range would also still be most useful.
Whilst third party providers have such F range extension tubes, the mechanical fit and quality of the ones that I have seen are woeful to say the least and many of them are made of plastics that lack the necessary rigidity to carry heavier lenses without flexing.
Dr. Lens makes full contact Nikon extension tubes from Nikon teleconverters: http://nikongear.net/revival/index.php?topic=4544.0
I own two of these and find the 23mm (TC14E deboned) very very useful, esp in combination with the Nikkor 4/300PF
Nikon Z6, 50/1.8S, f/1.8, 1/160 sec, 2500 ISO
Are you happy with the high iso of the Z6? I mean really high 36k, 51k, 80k or 100k?
ot really done any in-depth testing for the high ISO speeds yet, plus Photo Ninja hasn't been updated to process Z6 NEFs (only does Z7 files). Thus I have to fall back on the jpgs and who knows how these have been doctored by the EXPEED 6 machinery inside the z6.
50K (51200) ISO is a calibrated setting and works pretty well as assessed from the jpgs. Same can be said for the Hi ISO's, however colour saturation starts to decline and image noise is more visible. Still, the 100K(102400) ISO would be useful for the odd shot if required.
Picked up my copy of the 50/1.8 S-Line Nikkor last night and had occasion to pull off some shots in the darkness on my return home.Maybe the new lenses should be the reason for buying into the Z cameras, very nice quality, my 50/f1.2 would not make such a clean image even at f1.8
Short story, this is probably the best 50mm ever made by Nikon. Really wets my appetite for getting to know the 58mm f/0.95 Noct S due to arrive in early 2019 (and pre-ordered).
Sharpness extends all over the frame even with lens set to f/1.8, more or less the same behaviour as my 35/.8S. Handling of point light sources is excellent and coma is very low - my first impression is the new lens trounces the old faithful Noct-Nikkor 58/1.2 in this respect. Early days yet, but I am enthusiastic about the 50.
Nikon Z6, 50/1.8S, f/1.8, 1/160 sec, 2500 ISO
Maybe the new lenses should be the reason for buying into the Z cameras, very nice quality, my 50/f1.2 would not make such a clean image even at f1.8
There is a distortion control setting somewhere in the menus. I have turned it off.
Congratulations on the new Z6 and 1.st 50mm both looks like strong performers, the blur circles of the 50mm f/1.8 looks very large, please compare it to ordinary similar 50mm when you have time og course :)
Blur circles are a function of the physical size of the aperture, its shape, *and* image magnification. Smooth blur circles that overlap make smooth out-of-focus rendition.
I have a pre-order of the 58/0.95 Noct via my personal Nikon contact at Nikon Nordic. The Nikon subsidiaries do not take normal pre-orders for this lens yet, as it still is on a prototype stage of development.
Can someone explain to my how these "blur circles" (which I take are Circles of Confusion) work. By saying they are very large, is that good or bad, please?
Also, I am very interested in the NIKKOR Z 58mm f/0.95 S NOCT. Where can one preorder it?
Test with Z6 at various ISO (equivalence) settings.
Hi-2 200K ('204600')
Hi-1 100K ('102400')
50K ISO (51200)
The Auto distortion control (Photo shooting menu) directly affects out-of-camera jpg’s; but for .NEF raw files it only records its setting in the .NEF metadata. It is up to the raw converter to honour this setting and compensate automatically for distortion or not.
It looks like “people move on, nothing to see here, same as in the DSLR’s” but there is something different with the Z cameras.
Firstly, ACR (and Lightroom) read the built-in lens profile (for both native Z-mount lenses and F-mount G and E lenses), and always correct for distortion, completely disregarding the auto distortion setting in the metadata. It does not seem possible to disable distortion correction. In my eyes unwanted, bad behaviour.
Secondly, with a Z-mount S-line lens attached, when auto distortion control is set to ON, the viewfinder and monitor image are LIVE corrected for distortion. I really had to check this a few times before I could believe my eyes. Very neat. It doesn’t work however with adapted F-mount lenses (I checked both E and G lenses).
Is it a useful feature? I think so, even when shooting raw. In many cases having a distortion corrected viewfinder image makes it just a little bit easier to keep the camera at level. And with a proper raw converter distortion correction can always be disabled.
Additionally one needs to set Option d8 ('apply settings to live view') to ON to make the finder and monitor show the corrected view. Otherwise only jpgs are corrected. Photo Ninja politely ignores any such setting in the NEF.
Blur circles are a function of the physical size of the aperture, its shape, *and* image magnification. Smooth blur circles that overlap make smooth out-of-focus rendition.
I have a pre-order of the 58/0.95 Noct via my personal Nikon contact at Nikon Nordic. The Nikon subsidiaries do not take normal pre-orders for this lens yet, as it still is on a prototype stage of development.
Did they give you an estimate of the cost of the lens?
I suspect I'll have to sell a kidney to get the funds for it.
Additionally one needs to set Option d8 ('apply settings to live view') to ON to make the finder and monitor show the corrected view. Otherwise only jpgs are corrected. Photo Ninja politely ignores any such setting in the NEF.
The LN-FZ is very well made indeed. With only one FTZ adapter around I have it permanently attached to it. Only one issue, I find it impossible when clamped (in a normal position to the RRS clamp) to remove the body from the FTZ. Simply not enough turning space for that.
True enough with any Arca-type clamp I've tried. However, as one can just slide off the whole package from the clamp then remove the camera, it is a minor annoyance only.
I have several third-party mount adapters for the Z system, and they usually lack the tripod mount option thus cause no additional problems. At the same time, the lack of direct tripod support means these adapters are mainly useful with non-CPU shorter lenses, or with (non-CPU) long lenses having their own tripod collar.
ot really done any in-depth testing for the high ISO speeds yet, plus Photo Ninja hasn't been updated to process Z6 NEFs (only does Z7 files). Thus I have to fall back on the jpgs and who knows how these have been doctored by the EXPEED 6 machinery inside the z6.
50K (51200) ISO is a calibrated setting and works pretty well as assessed from the jpgs. Same can be said for the Hi ISO's, however colour saturation starts to decline and image noise is more visible. Still, the 100K(102400) ISO would be useful for the odd shot if required.
Forgive me for asking the obvious question, but how do you access the settings above 51,200? They don’t show as available from ISO button+rear dial. I can’t find any place where they are limited. I did find limits which apply to autoISO, but that doesn’t seem to work either.
The question was how to get these values ... go to Photo Shooting Menu, select ISO settings. Turn auto ISO off and you are free to dial in any setting wanted.
The question was how to get these values ... go to Photo Shooting Menu, select ISO settings. Turn auto ISO off and you are free to dial in any setting wanted.EFCS needs to set to OFF though otherwise your upper ISO limit is 51k
I thought that Jack already tried with the Auto ISO off as well and just doesn't see the actual ISO value. :o :o :o
I finally finished my initialed use of the Z6 and 24-70/4S lens. I hope it is ok, that I post the link to it here. If not, let me know and I will delete it or the mods can remove the post.
https://bestlightphoto.blogspot.com/2018/12/nikon-z6-and-24-704s-z-mount-lens.html (https://bestlightphoto.blogspot.com/2018/12/nikon-z6-and-24-704s-z-mount-lens.html)
Good work Andrew - thank you for this. Thanks also for your Z6 & OMD observations in your review.+1
(And thank you to Birna and everyone else that have shared their Z6 / Z7 experiences with us thus far.)
+1
Interesting to see that Nikon is not going for a big space saving, actually the optics has grown in size.
IMHO size comparisons make the most sense if referenced from the sensor plane. Measured in this way, the new 50/1.8S is only a tad longer than the 50/1.8AFS including the FTZ adapter.
With the sensor plane markers aligned, it becomes obvious how much the mirrorless Z cameras have grown behind the sensor.
As I stated earlier, that is the price to pay if the optical path cannot be folded up (via a mirror) and one demands superior quality of the finder.
The total length of Z body with Z 50/1.8 attached (from the viewfinder eyepiece to the front edge of the lens) is much greater than D750 body with AF-s 50/1.8. This Z combo is also 65g heavier than the F combo.Akira, when I bought the EM-5 it was all about size ;) . At the time I was shooting D3s, D700, D300s and D300 with 2 MB-10's in the mix. Not fun to travel with and as airline restrictions became tighter it meant changing. Now most FX mirrorless are more or less the same size and weight and lenses are getting bigger. Due to advancing age I have started using adapted lenses for travel and most walkabout. The Df/58 f1.4 are still a favourite, even for travel. I will take a7iii, Df and Pen F on my next trip. Huge difference from D700,24-70 2.8G, 70-200 2.8G (ii), 85 1.4D, and 35 f1.4 . I may have the Z6 before my next trip so I shall see what goes and what stays for the trip.
Who said mirrorless is smaller and lighter? :o :o :o
Nikon wanted to make these lenses *better*, not necessarily smaller.
The smaller and lighter has pretty much disappeared from Sony full frame forums ;D
A few more samples with the Z6.
Firstly, windows in an office building 35/1.8S at f/11, ISO 2500
Here's a comparison of OOC 100% crops at high ISO @ 102k with different NR settings. The manual focus is on the lamp stand.
I think Frank was looking for this.
001: low NR, converted in NX-D, no post
002: no NR, converted in NX-D, no post
003: low NR, jpeg straight OOC
Actually, "ISO" 102400 = 100K
Same confusion as in sizes of computer hard drives.
I used the z6 this saturday to shoot a dance show.Paco, cool image :)
ISO: 3200 works very good, 1600 much better. I´ll be happy with any but I need room for pp. I have shot in both settings and I´m happy with it. Take into consideration that I may print any of the images big, either for expo or for posters for the show so my tolerance may be lower than most.
AF: I have settle for now with AF-C Dynamic area and 1/2"every other point" active (menu item A5). That gives me a very precise focus that I can move around fast. Note, if you get to the far end to any direction and push the joystick again, the point will go around and appear on the other side of the screen, like pacman. I didn´t know that but I used it a few occasions. Full area with face recognition may work sometimes but It can focus on random places if no obvious face is on the frame.
RAW: lossless compressed 12 bit. Gives maximum speed and buffer. I have not encounter any limitations. Rather, I came home with waaay too many images. 12 fps even in silent mode
WB: as usual for me I set it to K3500. AWB can be all over the place and this way I have a good starting point to set as needed.
Finder: menu d8 "apply settings to live view" on and neutral picture control makes for a reliable preview. Still, images can be darker than the evf suggest so I have to compensate, a bit, accordingly. D11 "view all in continuous mode" also ON. Other, viewfinder brightness is set to "auto" and is working well. I may try the manual compensation to better match what is going on on stage...will see.
Stealth: in the set up menu, control panel brightness was set to 1 and later to completely off. I became noiseless and invisible 8) that bring me to silent shutter. The most appealing feature of the camera for my needs. Luck will have it, this particular show had a lot of intimate silent scenes. I had a blast shooting away worry free. At some point and just for fun, I moved at less than 3 feet from one of the people in the audience. He didn´t even notice and I was doing 12 fps 8)
I have save all this to U3. Is the closest to M. Only drive mode can not be saved.
I had the d500 with me. I didn´t use it other than to compare at the beginning. Still a brilliant camera for shows. Sound made the cut.
the Z6 seems to be a winner.
I will ask NPS for a test package...
though I still did not like the ergonomics ...
I did shot again with the D850+grip+105E ... a pleasure, a real thing, a hand warmer, lovely.
I used the z6 this saturday to shoot a dance show.Paco, great practical advice about how to use the camera! Seems that you are truly enjoying it
ISO: 3200 works very good, 1600 much better. I´ll be happy with any but I need room for pp. I have shot in both settings and I´m happy with it. Take into consideration that I may print any of the images big, either for expo or for posters for the show so my tolerance may be lower than most.
AF: I have settle for now with AF-C Dynamic area and 1/2"every other point" active (menu item A5). That gives me a very precise focus that I can move around fast. Note, if you get to the far end to any direction and push the joystick again, the point will go around and appear on the other side of the screen, like pacman. I didn´t know that but I used it a few occasions. Full area with face recognition may work sometimes but It can focus on random places if no obvious face is on the frame.
RAW: lossless compressed 12 bit. Gives maximum speed and buffer. I have not encounter any limitations. Rather, I came home with waaay too many images. 12 fps even in silent mode
WB: as usual for me I set it to K3500. AWB can be all over the place and this way I have a good starting point to set as needed.
Finder: menu d8 "apply settings to live view" on and neutral picture control makes for a reliable preview. Still, images can be darker than the evf suggest so I have to compensate, a bit, accordingly. D11 "view all in continuous mode" also ON. Other, viewfinder brightness is set to "auto" and is working well. I may try the manual compensation to better match what is going on on stage...will see.
Stealth: in the set up menu, control panel brightness was set to 1 and later to completely off. I became noiseless and invisible 8) that bring me to silent shutter. The most appealing feature of the camera for my needs. Luck will have it, this particular show had a lot of intimate silent scenes. I had a blast shooting away worry free. At some point and just for fun, I moved at less than 3 feet from one of the people in the audience. He didn´t even notice and I was doing 12 fps 8)
I have save all this to U3. Is the closest to M. Only drive mode can not be saved.
I had the d500 with me. I didn´t use it other than to compare at the beginning. Still a brilliant camera for shows. Sound made the cut.
I simply *had* to modify the FTZ adapter. By judiciously inserting a tiny piece of plastic, the minimum-aperture sensor is (semi-)permanently disabled. An easy DIY-fix taking 15 seconds at most to implement.
No more the dreaded "F--" error that prevents a shot when one changes lenses in a hurry and forgets to lock the aperture ring. Plus many lenses, in particular third-party ones, lack a proper aperture lock anyway so the lens can easily become unlocked -- very frustrating when you try to get the shot and the error message flashes and the release is jammed.
Even greater advantage (to me) is that I now can study details in the image rendition accurately when the lens aperture is set anywhere in the range from its maximum value to f/5.6, simply by rotating the aperture ring. Most useful for close-up work.
The FTZ continues to operate exactly as before. The modification only concerns the previewing part of its function.
So, the idea is to just jam that little pin down, correct? And by doing that in wider apertures <= f/5.6 I see the actual aperture setting and not the wide-open one?
I could not use the 80-200ed because of FF--error but this trick fixes it. I can dial the aperture from the camera even. Thanks Birna
I am getting increasingly interested in using the Z7, more than I imagined. I thought I would be using only with adaptive lenses and ignore the three native lenses, but I seem to be changing my mind. I find myself assembling a small kit to go on the road with, which will be something like:
Nikon 7
Nikon Z 24-70mm S
Nikon 50mm S
FTZ
CV-125 mm
What other non-native lenses are folks finding that they want to carry with them. I would like to hear some of your favorites.
For me, perhaps the Voigtlander 180mm, the voigtlander 90mm macro.
Of course I could lug some big lenses, but may not.
If the native lenses continue being this good (correction-wise), this could change my whole lens approach.
I am getting increasingly interested in using the Z7, more than I imagined. I thought I would be using only with adaptive lenses and ignore the three native lenses, but I seem to be changing my mind. I find myself assembling a small kit to go on the road with, which will be something like:
Nikon 7
Nikon Z 24-70mm S
Nikon 50mm S
FTZ
CV-125 mm
What other non-native lenses are folks finding that they want to carry with them. I would like to hear some of your favorites.
For me, perhaps the Voigtlander 180mm, the voigtlander 90mm macro.
Of course I could lug some big lenses, but may not.
If the native lenses continue being this good (correction-wise), this could change my whole lens approach.
You are most welcome, Paco. The small details are important :D
The modification is entirely reversible. No epoxy glue has been applied (for once) :D
The contact sensor is not "insulated", but jammed in the 'down' position so as to inform the camera the lens is set to its minimum aperture, whether this is true or false.
Nice work, Andrew! :)
After seeing the fantastic night shots with the Z 50mm I wonder if the Z 35mm is equally good at f1.8?
So far I keep EFC on at all times. I´ll turn it off if in need of faster than 1/2000th shutter. There is no benefit to turn it off that I can think of. It uses half of the shutter movement -and so cuts wear in half as well?- and more importantly is faster, quieter and no vibration until the end of the exposure.
Am I missing something?
Yes, it is.
I fear using the native Z-lenses in your case will be limited by the lack of suitable extension.
However, seeing that an extension ring only needs pass-through contacts, I am now looking into the opportunity to build one or two myself. I only need a few additional spare parts (camera mount, baffle and contact pins) that my helpful Nikon contact might assist me with.
I fear using the native Z-lenses in your case will be limited by the lack of suitable extension.
However, seeing that an extension ring only needs pass-through contacts, I am now looking into the opportunity to build one or two myself. I only need a few additional spare parts (camera mount, baffle and contact pins) that my helpful Nikon contact might assist me with.
Work pace slows down towards the end of the year. All required botany articles are submitted to the Ministry of the Environmental and I even got the final payment as well. Thus, time to enjoy music,reading, friendship, and some camera experimenting :D
Here is the final version of the M42 adapter for the Z cameras. Many solutions are feasible and I have tried several of them, before eventually making the adapter as thin and as simple as possible.
The required parts of the adapter (plus the M42>39 step ring and the 55/1.2 Nikkor-O) are shown below. The making of the adapter is the simple matter of trimming the M42 mounting bracket (from an old Petri M42 kit) so it fits inside the Z lens mount, adding epoxy glue, and cure for 40 minutes at 100C in the oven to ensure maximum binding strength. Then, add any suitable M42 helicoid and one is ready to explore any M42 (or m39) lens on the Z camera.
I had the famous Nikkor-O 55mm f/1.2 in mind so this is the lens I experimented with. It will focus to infinity with ease provided the helicoid is short enough (approx. 17mm will do with the helicoid fully closed), and only length of the expanded helicoid plus any extension tubes defines the near limit.
The examples below, taken with the Z6 and the lens set to f/1.2, illustrate the huge focusing range available for the 55/1.2 Nikkor-O. Towards infinity the image is sharp only on-axis, as expected, and there is visible vignetting in the corners. Up close the sharpness extends across the frame and corner vignetting is minimised.
Happy shooting :D
Birna is having a lot of fun in the adapter business
Thank you Birna, for allowing us to follow along with your explorations.Yes, indeed, thanks !!
The old 35mm f/1.8 far surpass my expectations! Really impressed. Considering the vintage and the size looks like a really nice set!
I have been disappointed by many LEICA M lenses on the new digital LEICA cameras even more so on Sony etc
The tempered behavior on NIKON Z must be due to the very thin cover glass.
The next lenses to assess on the Z cameras are the following,Both lenses are tiny compared to the native Z-mount optics and as they are quite recent designs, should provide decent performance as well. A native Z lens this wide will not appear for a while it seems (plans for a 14-30/4 do exist though).
- 15 mm f/4.5 Voigtländer Heliar (made by Cosina in native F Nikon mount, early '00s)
- 50 mm f/1.4 Nikkor (2005 model for the Jubilee Nikon S3 camera)
The Heliar sits snugly inside a "dumb" F-Z adapter (Fotasy), whilst the 50 Nikkor rides atop the Birna-Amadeo Z-adapter I completed a day or two ago.
Also, received the RRS L-Bracket for the Z cameras. It is nice and it extends to the left (facing forward) to allow the various HDMI connections, etc. to fit in without effecting the vertical mounting. I have other L-Brackers, but this is expensive but nice, IMO. It also has an Allen wrench inset into the L-Pracked held there by two magnets.
Do you have any idea where I might get a short extension (like 8mm or so) for Z-mount to Z-mount?
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So they copied what Kirk did with their monopod head and attached an Allen wrench to the device. Good idea! Another good idea, IMO, is this better wrench from Acratech.Wouldn't it be infinitely better to eliminate the Allen head and use a slot that can be turned with a coin, as the inexpensive Sunway gear does?
https://www.acratech.net/accessories/stainless-steel-allen-wrench
I'm thinking about trading in some of my older Nikon gear toward a Z6/24-70/FTZ. WTH, I don't use the old stuff, so I think I would get more value from trading it for something that I would use, like a Z6/24-70-/FTZ combo. Comments?If you have lost interest in it and will have no use for it, why not get something new and fun to play with?
...
However, as I already have an appointment with a rep of Nikon UK next week, I will relate to them a wish for a Z extension tube. I might even build one myself after talking to my insider Nikon repair tech who might provide me with [some of] the required parts.
Also, received the RRS L-Bracket for the Z cameras. It is nice and it extends to the left (facing forward) to allow the various HDMI connections, etc. to fit in without effecting the vertical mounting. I have other L-Brackers, but this is expensive but nice, IMO. It also has an Allen wrench inset into the L-Pracked held there by two magnets.Hi Michael, could you please post an image of the brackets?
Hi Michael, could you please post an image of the brackets?
I'm looking for a plate which covers the entire bottom of the camera so includes a grip extension, Smallrig has one and I expect RRS has the same design but somehow they were unable to have any images on their website so you'll be the first to do so :)
Here's the Smallrig, which is very modular:
https://www.smallrig.com/smallrig-l-bracket-for-nikon-z6-and-nikon-z7-camera-2258.html
Without pictures of the RRS plate available yet, question is if the plate does extend below the battery door / grip area. If so, the additional height obtained this way will improve the grip on the camera. It might be needed however to remove the plate in order to exchange the battery. The RRS plate for the Sony A7iii/A7riii/A9 is like this, with the option of moving the (removable) battery door to the plate.
Without pictures of the RRS plate available yet, question is if the plate does extend below the battery door / grip area. If so, the additional height obtained this way will improve the grip on the camera.Exactly, I had this type of plate on all three of my Sony's and it really improves the handling, really don't want to go back 5 years in time and use a regular generic shaped plates.
It might be needed however to remove the plate in order to exchange the battery. The RRS plate for the Sony A7iii/A7riii/A9 is like this, with the option of moving the (removable) battery door to the plate.Also don't like this for two reasons; I want to keep the camera sealed at all times when in the field as I do shoot in the rain and also want to keep the battery door out of the dirt when placing it on the ground.
JA: the lens in question with the Z and 'Smallrig' is 24-70/4 which by no means of imagination can be considered 'heavy'.In the mirrorless domain any lens of half a kilo and up is considered heavy ;)
JA: the lens in question with the Z and 'Smallrig' is 24-70/4 which by no means of imagination can be considered 'heavy'.
Either the bracket is sloppily attached to the camera, or the design is flawed. You guess is as good as mine.
Andrew might enlighten us further when he receives his 'Smallrig'.
Quick shots of RRS plate. Note the hex wrench on the front held by two magnets embedded in frame of plate. Also, the bottom can expand to accommodate UBS, HDMI etc. wires.
It fits the camera very nicely.
I'm glad you posted pics of the bracket, as they are missing from the RRS website.
Hi Michael, could you please post an image of the brackets?
I'm looking for a plate which covers the entire bottom of the camera so includes a grip extension, Smallrig has one and I expect RRS has the same design but somehow they were unable to have any images on their website so you'll be the first to do so :)
Here's the Smallrig, which is very modular:
https://www.smallrig.com/smallrig-l-bracket-for-nikon-z6-and-nikon-z7-camera-2258.html
Quick shots of RRS plate. Note the hex wrench on the front held by two magnets embedded in frame of plate. Also, the bottom can expand to accommodate UBS, HDMI etc. wires.
It fits the camera very nicely.
I have the Smallrig + FTZ extension. It fits nicely. I'll have it with me next Friday, you can judge yourself :)
Thanks Thom for posting these pictures, very helpful.
It is good to see that the plate enhances the grip of the camera without blocking the battery door. Things are not so good imho with the l-part. Depending on its mounting position it will block the plate mounting screw, and the plate without the l-part will have two sharp edges at the left bottom side that might become a little uncomfortable on the palm of the left hand. RRS solved this differently in the Sony plates (l-part between plate and body, so edges pointing upwards). The reason for this l-part mounting scheme could be a locking pin on the plate that fits in the hole on the right side of the bottom of the Z camera, is that pin really there??
Seeing the RRS bracket I'm glad for choosing the Markins (LN-Z7 + LN-FZ). For my hands much more comfortable. Plus it handles vertical orientation of the camera with FTZ better.
The L-bracket for Olympus E-M.2 is constructed in similar manner to the RRS and using that camera hand-held with the bracket is not comfortable (for my hands).
All this focus (pun intended) on brackets, plates, extensions for the Z6/7 and other camera bodies is indicative for this miopic reader that Nikon designers/engineers missed out or knowingly, woefully ignored an opportunity to end this "sawn off" look on its line of digital reflex cameras (the Df being a noteworthy exception, and a design feature plus of utility and aesthetic balance that instantly drew me towards the notion of becoming a Df owner), by designing a body that simply incorporates what is lacking so obviously, in the current designs. The third party designers, like the creators of the RRS and other extensions designers were quick to see the failings of the very recent Z designs and so endear themselves to those who see this basic flaw in Nikon Z design. The RRS design, for one, "looks good" so good, that it has become a part of the Z camera body- horse and rider as one, to steal a Nipon philosophy.
The ZTF adapter would serve no useful purpose ....
I will however campaign for an Z-Z extension tube in upcoming talks with Nikon.
I hear you, Michael, although the optical engineers over at the Mothership will be horrified about learning this user wish. And with good reason seen from their point of view, as an extension can only destroy much of the superior performance they have created in these new designs.
I have been using split adapters for a few years now and am perfectly fine with it, I had no IQ issues and it opens up a plethora of opportunities not possible with single adapters. Plus I only had to buy one NIK Z / LEM adapter to use my lenses in Leica M, Nikon F and Canon FD mount instead of buying three :)
what is a NIK Z/lem adapter and perhaps a link to where I can read about ti or buy it, please.This one: https://www.novoflex.de/en/products-637/lens-adapters//adapterfinder-products/camera/nikon-z-mirrorless/objectiv/31.html
This one: https://www.novoflex.de/en/products-637/lens-adapters//adapterfinder-products/camera/nikon-z-mirrorless/objectiv/31.html
Please be aware that the image isn't of the actual Nikon Z to Leica M adapter, I received one from the first batch today and they will probably update the image on their website soon. I might post an image tomorrow if somebody is interested, the one posted looks more like the one I have for the Sony FE mount.
Why not cut to the chase and install your 55mm f/1.2 CRT Nikkor directly on a focusing helicoid, Michael? 42mm thread helicoids abound on eBay and are quite cheap. Add a 39-42 ring in front and put a Z bayonet at the other end, and you're good to go.
The setup depicted below allows focusing the 55 CRT from 20 cm to approx. 5m, the latter being far outside its effective working range so one perhaps only needs 20 cm to 1 m. However, this was the only suitable helicoid floating around at present on my work table so will have to do for now. Most importantly, the focusing extension now covers the optimum design range for the 55 CRT (1:4 ~1:5x).
I can order for you ...
No problem. Shall we say 2 mounts? Might take a few weeks to get as the repair shop orders parts only twice a month, though. I can put in the order during the day.
# Is any M42/Z mount adapter able to give infinity without any glass inside of course ? I would say yes, as the distance from the sensor to the rear glass is much longer than the F system. just to be sure.
# Is the body fitted stabilisation system really efficient even with lens without VR ?
Hello all !
I am showing some interests toward this camera. So far I was considering this new comer with a placid eye and didn't even try to find out about its potential, at least for my use.
So, having now more free time, I started to read this thread from the beginning this morning, and wow, no so bad, actually !
I already reached the 13th page and the read is leading myself to ask 2 questions :
# Is any M42/Z mount adapter able to give infinity without any glass inside of course ? I would say yes, as the distance from the sensor to the rear glass is much longer than the F system. just to be sure.
# Is the body fitted stabilisation system really efficient even with lens without VR ?
I am going to carry on my reading... ;D
thanks, Francis.
To answer your questions,
2. The VR is pretty effective. I have managed formerly unheard of feats such as shooting 200/2 AFS down to 1/3 sec with good-excellent results. For the similar focal length without VR, perhaps to 1/6 or 1/10. So yes, the built-in VR works.
Awesome news for the Sony users whom are (thinking of) jumping to the Zee cameras, Gabale is working on an electronic Sony FE to Nikon Z mount!!!!
And yes this is why I split my adapters, it's all about the Lego ;D ;D
... And yes this is why I split my adapters, it's all about the Lego ;D ;D
..................................................................................................
It's way more fun to explore the new capabilities of a mirrorless platform instead of focussing on what it does less well compared to a DSLR :) :)
Hahahaha, don't know about that but did adapt Nikon F, Canon EF, Canon FD, Contax G, Leica M, Leica LTM / M39 and M52 lenses for the Sony A7 series in the last 5 years or so, combined with the native FE lenses that's 8 different mounts I've tried with various levels of success.It's even more fun to take pictures. :D
It's way more fun to explore the new capabilities of a mirrorless platform instead of focussing on what it does less well compared to a DSLR :) :)
The in-body image stabilization (IBIS) works with my old AI and pre-AI lenses.
By the way, Francis, there will be a good deal of Z cameras in the NG Meet-up in Scotland in May as several of the participants do use them. You will be able to indulge in the new camera range there :D
Apparently the "dummies approach" worked ... Nice product shot.
Not sure about the idea of putting a TC into the FTZ. You would upset the optical design of a lot of candidate lenses for the TC plus likely getting an issue with register distance. That is, unless the length of that particular FTZ is adjusted to bring the geometry correct and one actually ends up more or less with the same layout as shown in your picture.
The empty space in the FTZ could be filled with additional elements for a potentially even better TC, it doesn't have to become shorter in length. ---
The F-mount lenses are designed for a given register distance. Putting glass into an FTZ would wreak havoc on that.
The TC's of today all have the usual 46.5mm register distance of the F mount.
I don't expect Nikon to do this feat. All TCs for F-mount do have the same register distance whether they are Nikon-made or not.
Of course Nikon can recompute existing designs, or make new ones, but I have a feeling their main thrust for native lenses of the Z range is on shorter focal lengths. Long lenses are very expensive and making a dedicated lens of this class for the Z system is not economic before the Z itself is a major player in their line-up.
So, to what end? One particular lens would have to be made in two separate versions any way. At present the F system is the default, so one adds the ~30mm spacer required for F>Z. Were the opposite scenario manifested, the native Z version would require an internal spacer of the same magnitude to be able to be used on F and still one would have to remove a section of the lens.
That different camera systems and their lenses are designed with different register distances is a moot point here.
Birna, these images are unbelievable...
Even am impressed myself -- so cannot wait for the Noct* 58/0.95 S to be released. I have it on pre-order
* the darkness hunter
Well, there remains the small problem of focusing -- the new Noct, in common with its predecessors in the F line, is a manual-focus lens only.
Indeed, impressive. I've still not had a need to shoot beyond ISO 12,800...but it is good to see that these images are possible well beyond what I am shooting. I might need to experiment a little bit more! :D
note that with earlier generations the exposure latitute gets smaller and smaller the higher you pump the ISO. With a rental D5 I saw similar results at ISO 100k, but half a stop makes a huge difference like it was with slide film in film days
A lens for all seasons ... already ordered.
Which one will be first? The new Noct or this one? :D
My wild guess is that both Neo-Noct and 14-30 zoom will be releast at the same time. At this moment, they are the only Z lenses whose outlooks are known.
My wild guess is that both Neo-Noct and 14-30 zoom will be releast at the same time. At this moment, they are the only Z lenses whose outlooks are known.
I’m only talking about a teleconverter for Z cameras to use F telephotos. Lenses stay the same. Removes the FTZ from the chain.
The outlook of the 24-70/2.8 S is also known, maybe the next in line after these two. Personally I am interested in both 24/1.8 S and 85/1.8 S, both coming this year too.
https://nikonrumors.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/Nikon-NIKKOR-Z-24-70mm-f2.8-S-lens.jpg
Maybe it is just my perception, but it seems like Nikon is releasing product by product - Z7 -> Z6 ->50mm-> Z6 video kit ... rather than releasing a family or group of products at once. Certainly the new Noct is exciting enough to release by itself. I wonder if the 14-30 will get its own release or be overshadowed by Noct.
Thank you for the additional info on 24-70/2.8 which looks as bulky as the AF-S VR version. :o
You mean, 20/1.8? The release of 24/1.8 is scheduled for 2020.
+1
I would prefer a FTZ adapter having an aperture follower ring, ensuring true compatibility (without the old fashioned stop down metering) with the many admirably performing AI/AIS lenses.
In the updated lens roadmap the release of the 24/1.8 has been moved forward from 2020 to 2019, the release of the 20/1.8 S has been pushed back from 2019 to 2020...
https://nikonrumors.com/2019/01/08/updated-nikon-z-mirrorless-lens-roadmap-a-total-of-23-z-lenses-by-2021.aspx/
I went out today with the z6 and 105mm 2.5 ai. This lens has a cpu upgrade and it works like a charm. Focusing is a pleasure with peaking and magnification at any distance.Good to know. But, then i’ve never found a Nikon on which this lens wasn’t stellar. Someday (maybe sooner...) i’ll Try it on the Z7.
Plenty of alternatives - just ensure the camera end has the proper USB plug. Hahnel, Aputure, Hama... Cheap knock-offs work well enough (I have one labelled VHBW RS006, and at least one or two of other brands).
If you should purchase a Foolography GPS for your Z6, they tend to come bundled with a remote release. Mine did.
I wager a guess the new lens worked to satisfaction?
Rented a Z7. I like it a lot. There are some features I like better than others. I really LIKE the placement of the ISO button. Probably because my thumb is double-jointed. The OK button will take some getting used to. At first every time I tried to navigate with the wheel I'd hit the OK button before the directional ring. First problem I've encountered is an inability to download files from the XQD card. My PC won't recognize it. My MacBook Pro recognizes it but won't download the files. I did download some stuff from Nikon which was supposed to facilitate the XQD, but didn't seem to be any real help. I have a call to my Nikon friend who has an 850 so I'm sure we'll be able to suss it out.
Not too impressed with the 24-70 so far. Comparing resolution between my 810 and Z7 on just the LCD's at 100% I see no advantage for the Z7. I suppose I would have to print larger than I am capable of to see an improvement from higher mp's.
Oh, the EVF is just fine. I expected I would hate it, but not the case at all.
More thoughts later...
BTW Birna, that 85 looks terrific on the camera.
Do you have an XQD card reader? It's a pretty standard USB 3 device that also should be USB 2 backwards compatible.Yes, they sent one with the rental. It uses a USB-2 connection, made by Sony. I haven't tried the cable from the camera to download with - is that even an option?
--- BTW Birna, that 85 looks terrific on the camera.
Yes, I commented it earlier as "Nikkor New Olympia" -- it is the 2005 Jubilee version that came with the Nikon S3 (2005) camera (which I also own together with a black S3 AP from mid '60s).
It is more contrasty than the older 50mm designs from the rangefinder era, no doubt thanks to improved optics and better coatings. Still it has the slightly softer, "rounded" rendition that make these older lenses so enjoyable.
I now see the contours of a complete lens line-up for my Z6 using the "ancient" RF Nikkors ('S' mount) and equivalents. the latter being of course more modern developments made by Cosina/Voigtländer in the mid 'naughties (approx. 2005). Using the Roxsen N(RF)-Z adapter or a dummy F-Z (for the 15mm Heliar), the focal length ranges covered in the shot below are 15 to 105mm. It should be evident these lenses are surprisingly petite even with their adapters added. They are a lot of fun to use on the Z cameras and results are surprisingly good too.
Lenses depicted here are Voigtländer 15mm f/4.5 Heliar (F mount), Voigtländer 21mm f/4 SC Skopar (RF mount), 3.5cm f/1.8 W-Nikkor, 50mm f/1.4 Nikkor 'New Olympia' (in a focusing DIY mount), Voigtländer 50mm f/1.5 Nokton (RF mount), 8.5cm f/2 Nikkor (RF, the legendary Nikkor) on the Z6, 10.5cm f/2.5 Nikkor ('Sonnar' type). I do have some of the longer RF Nikkors such as the 25cm f/4 and 35cm f/4.5 as well, plus the 13.5cm f/4 Bellows-Nikkor. I also have a nice black 13.5cm f/3.5 Nikkor RF.
Nikon enthusiasts will note this particular 8.5cm Nikkor is the rarer Contax version as indicated by the 'C' engraved on the focusing barrel, but of course this has no significance on the Z camera with its visual focusing.
Birna, your car has a color that Peugeot makes only for you!
Birna have you been to Copenhagen for shopping Z equipment ? ;)
Another of these oldies springs to life on the Z camera: 25 cm f/4 Nikkor-Q from the early '50s.
Really enjoyed this thread - and all the photos within. I have been using a Df and added a D850, and the Z range is something I would really like to get into so that I can use my manual Nikkors (like the 105mm f/1.8 and 200mm f/4) as well as the new lenses coming out.
Has there been a consensus for the one to go for - Z6 or Z7? Price is not such a deal as this purchase will be used and enjoyed hopefully for a good while.
The Z7 seems to be the one to go for, but if anyone has tried them back to back, any input would be appreciated.
Awesome news for the Sony users whom are (thinking of) jumping to the Zee cameras, Gabale is working on an electronic Sony FE to Nikon Z mount!!!!JA, I watched the Vids. Seems auto focus with the 55 f1.8 was a bit slow and I only noticed them using single point in the centre. The rear screen seemed to show correct info. It would be nice if the family could use lenses (Nikon, Sony and Leica M) on both Sony a7xx and Nikon Z on trips. My son has the VM 15 f4.5III in his bag and I have a tough time getting it away from him :(
Check the details here at F&M:
https://www.fredmiranda.com/forum/topic/1579875/16
This opens up a whole lot of possibilities for those whom invested heavily in Sony E adapters over the last couple of years.
Personally this would mean that one adapter can be used to:
- Adapt my Voigtlander 15/4.5 FE and Zeiss 35/1.4 FE
- Adapt the Voigtlander 125/2.5 APO with the Metabones Canon EF to FE adapter
- Use the Voigtlander close focus (helicoid) Leica M to FE adapter with the 50/1.2, 85/1.2 and 100/1.6 Heligon
- Make the mentioned manual lenses in to AF lenses with the Techart Leica M to FE autofocus adapter
Some examples here on NR where they've mounted a Sony 55/1.8 FE, a Canon EF 50mm and a Leica M lens:
https://nikonrumors.com/2019/01/18/this-is-the-upcoming-techart-autofocus-lens-adapter-for-nikon-z-mount.aspx/#more-131743
I was hoping for such an adapter but didn't think it would materialise so quickly.
And yes this is why I split my adapters, it's all about the Lego ;D ;D
Inspired by Birna, I have just (for the first time) dug out my old Rosenstock lenses to use on my Z6. Mine are all DKL and whilst there is no Z-DKL adapter, there is a F-DKL.
I went out and tried one out today on the Df to get the feel for them on a known camera, but despite getting some pleasing photos, the rear protrusion of the DKL lenses makes for the mirror to hang in the DF on the return. So only Z6 use from now on.
Typical German results - lower contrast, but high resolution - and VERY pleasing colours.
For the Kodak Retina 35mm Reflex there are:
30mm f/2.8
35mm f/4
50mm f/1.9
50mm f/2.8
85mm f/4
135mm f/4
The 35mm f/4 was used for the below photos.
To have quality German glass available at low prices second-hand is almost a gift. And they make for a truly compact outfit.
If Nikon has surplus samples of the Noct 58/0.95 to cut through, perhaps we'll see actual lenses occurring real soon?
The 24-70mm f/4S Nikkor - the 'Z kit lens' - is talked down on several forums. I find it quite versatile and having a very good image quality across the entire frame. Although it is not very small it still is pretty light weight and makes for a great travel companion with the Z6. There are no immediate plans on my part for replacing it with the faster f/2.8 model now about to be released.
The photo below is @24mm and f/5.6. No later geometric correction.
This is NEF processed in Photo Ninja, which doesn't know much about any Z camera. I have turned off whatever control I could detect in the menus.
There is recent talk about a "Z5" too -- a consumer model.
ADDITIONAL INFO on CP+2019:
Nikon displays mock-ups of six Z lenses to be released in the future:
https://dc.watch.impress.co.jp/docs/news/eventreport/1172477.html
Seen in the second image from the top (from left to right): 24/1.8 (filter thread: 72mm) and 85/1.8 (67mm)
The third image: 20/1.8 (77mm), 50/1.2 (82mm) and 14-24/2.8 (apparently no filter thread)
Fourth image (far right): 70-200/2.8 (77mm)
Seventh image: the battery grip containing two EN-EL15 batteries for 1.8x battery life.
Hope this would be of any help and enjoyment.
Z5 is mentioned here:
https://nikonrumors.com/2019/02/28/cp-show-report-new-nikon-z-camera-designed-for-consumers-will-be-coming-soon-nikon-z5.aspx/#more-133012
Akira - an interesting link - thank you.
I also see Sony CFexpress cards depicted in the link - alongside a Z7. I wonder how far off these cards are?
Some help please
Today I took some of my f mount lenses down to my dealer planning on picking up the Z6 kit if I was happy with AF. Never got as far as testing AF since EVF stayed completely blown out. So bright I could hardly see the targets. I had my own card and the images were not over exposed but camera was unusable. I have shot Z6 and Z7 before
Changing settings and doing a re-set did not do anything but when we put the 24-70S on the camera all was good. Owner is going to try working it out and I am going back Monday or Tuesday
Some setting we are missing? I was using tc 1.4 II in 300 2.8vr in very bright, flat light.
Tom
Thank you, Bent. The camera in the picture look like Z6/7 though.
Might be an issue with the FTZ adapter? You can try attaching the 300 without the TC to learn whether that changes the outcome as well.Birna, many thanks. I have the feeling that it is the TC. I will certainly try taking it off. My wife was double parked on a very busy street while we were trying to change settings so did not have as much time as I would have liked. I did try the 58 1.4 inside the shop and it was fine but did have problems with AF in the mixed, bad light in the shop. I am reasonably happy with the Sony a7iii for fast action shots but only have FE70-200 f4 as long lens so my quandary is buy a Z6 to use on my 70-200 f2.8G VRII, AFS 80-400G, 300 2.8 G VR and 500 f4 G vr or Sony 100-400. The Z6 kit is cheaper than the Sony lens (not to mention a TC 1.4 added). I can always just use my D500 and take more care with Fine Tuning.
Except for no obvious "cat's eyes" to be seen, really hard to tell anything about the 58/0.95. I didn't understand the spoken words in the video so any hidden goodies of information in the conversation were not obvious to me either.
This footage was posted by Impress-Watch. The introduction of 58/0.95 Neo-Noct starts at 2:00. On the large monirotor next to the tripod, you can see how the lens sees the world. Could be an itching teaser?!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=120&v=GBOLr8qtRSI
This footage was posted by Impress-Watch. The introduction of 58/0.95 Neo-Noct starts at 2:00. On the large monirotor next to the tripod, you can see how the lens sees the world. Could be an itching teaser?!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=120&v=GBOLr8qtRSI
I read a rumour of a price of 6000.
cateye bokeh like the 1.4/105E
Z6 has taken a prominent place in my normal everyday picture taking and at work as well. A token of one of the latest promotional shoots. An alley next to Jerez´s cathedral works as a background. Lens working between f1.4 and f2.8Paco, very nice. I particularly like the B&W ;) . Interesting, Jerez (and surrounding area) has always been one of my favourite locations in Europe. :)
1.58mm
2. 28mm (close to dx crop)
3. 105mm
I have shot a couple of shows with led lights, one bad, one horrible but the little z6 manage to work them through
The price seems to be higher than OTUS by a whole step. :o :o :oIt's also a step brighter ;D
...
You would need to double the diameter of the front element to avoid the catseye bokeh. :o :o :o
Z6 has taken a prominent place in my normal everyday picture taking and at work as well. A token of one of the latest promotional shoots. An alley next to Jerez´s cathedral works as a background. Lens working between f1.4 and f2.8
1.58mm
2. 28mm (close to dx crop)
3. 105mm
I have shot a couple of shows with led lights, one bad, one horrible but the little z6 manage to work them through
It's also a step brighter ;D
Similar priced to a 200mm f/2 AFS VR - Seams reasonable 8)
Z6 has taken a prominent place in my normal everyday picture taking and at work as well. A token of one of the latest promotional shoots. An alley next to Jerez´s cathedral works as a background. Lens working between f1.4 and f2.8
1.58mm
2. 28mm (close to dx crop)
3. 105mm
I have shot a couple of shows with led lights, one bad, one horrible but the little z6 manage to work them through
I own and love the 1.4/105E, I just bought the 2/200VR and will see if I love it...
You did huh, i was thinking but i have a 300/2.8, enjoy.
The power of the Z range emerges more clearly day by day ....
I'm now seriously considering having another Z6 modified as a dedicated UV or "broad spectrum" camera.
I'm still processing images from my big 4 day Arnold Sports Festival in Columbus.
I was hired by a company to work on Saturday for them all day. They gave me a D5 and 24-70/2.8 to use.
On that, quickly before getting into the Z6....I am so glad I cannot afford the D5. My GOD that thing is a crafted piece of beauty and power!
I had it powered on from 8am until 8pm, took almost 3000 shots with it and the battery was still registering full. I had it on CH12 and AF-C/D9 and it just killed it all day long. Even swapped out the 24-70/2.8 and popped on my Tamron 70-200/2.8 VC. Didn't miss a beat.
Now for the Z6. It killed it too. I'm honestly starting to get a little PO'd with the internet Youtubers and bloggers. They trashed the hell out of this camera for AF performance. While I will concede that it is not at a D5/D500 level...I'm getting as good an AF performance out of this thing as I was my D700/D750 for the boxing I shot, images attached below.
I shot H+ motor drive, AF-C with dynamic area AF. Where I was shooting from I held the camera down on the ring apron below the bottom rope and used the rear LCD, actuated the shutter with the normal release. I used the Z 35mm f/1.8S and it was fantastic. Tack sharp, quickly focused on what I needed.
I even shot standard JPG...so I'm not even tapping into the power of RAW with the images below. When Nikon decides to crack the ultimate performance of the on sensor phase detection....well, that's another discussion for another time.
Anyway, please enjoy the images below. I was shooting between 1/500 and 1/1000 of a second at f/2.2 and f/2.8. ISO was running around 1600-2500.
My experiences with battery capacities on the Z6 are very different. Never got anything above approx. 200 shots per charge. I pack a couple of extra batteries and don't worry too much, however.
That is a large difference in battery performance, between you and Andrew. I wonder what is causing it?
I turn off the camera frequently as I am a slow worker in terms of my shooting approach. Usually I only take 1-2 frames at the time.
The conclusions from my empirical analysis of power consumption of the D500, http://nikongear.net/revival/index.php/topic,8114.msg137385.html#msg137385 (http://nikongear.net/revival/index.php/topic,8114.msg137385.html#msg137385) is just as valid for other bodies, and likely even more so for the Z-series: What matters most is how long the camera stays on. The number of frames shot in a certain interval of camera on-time matters very little. Taking long time to frame a subject and capturing only one frame at a time and having standby timers set to a long interval will cause dramatic decrease in the number of frames on a battery vs. short standby timer and shooting bursts the whole time. It is really (mostly) not the frames that consume power.
I have wi-fi etc. off.
As the batteries are small and light, it is trivial to carry spares on occasions when I expect to do a lot of shooting.
True Anthony but I need a least four battery's for a days shooting (I keep the camera constantly awake, not just on). When I don't have a camera bag I put them in my pocket. Annoyingly this seems to be a recipe for me losing them. It is starting to add up and be an expensive issue. I don't ever remember losing a Nikon battery.
Cheers
Now for the Z6. It killed it too. I'm honestly starting to get a little PO'd with the internet Youtubers and bloggers. They trashed the hell out of this camera for AF performance. While I will concede that it is not at a D5/D500 level...I'm getting as good an AF performance out of this thing as I was my D700/D750 for the boxing I shot, images attached below.
I use Think Tank battery holders (I have a 2 and a 4 size) for my batteries. They are very practical. Used batteries go back with the terminal showing. https://www.wilkinson.co.uk/think-tank-dslr-battery-holder-4-pouch/?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIw-mlwJfr4AIV753tCh0u8wnOEAQYASABEgLKZ_D_BwE
I turn the camera off when not actually shooting. I think that significantly improves battery life.
Thank you for this, Andrew. This thread has been slowly inclining me towards a Z6 but the assorted criticism of the AF elsewhere had been giving me pause. My mind, if not my wallet, can now be at ease.
They really got into pole position :D
Arnold Sports Festival 2019
Powerlifting with the Z24-70/4S:
I discussed the details for building a pass-through extension ring for the Z system with my friendly Nikon repair tech today. My aims are of course firstly the 50/1.8S, and secondly the mighty 58/0.95 when it arrives. We went through all the technical part drawings (which I cannot reproduce as they are classified) and decided upon the parts required. They are now ordered and should arrive within a few weeks' time.
Afterwards, I snapped a photo of him in the bad tech-lab lighting and he did a complimentary free cleaning of my Z6 ... which was a bit more dirty on the sensor than I had thought.
It obviously pays to build and develop relationships.
(24-70, Z6)
Paco works. AF works. The Z6 works. All is good.:)
Smaller focus point and some more time. Beginning and end of the piece used light levels even lower and some artificial mist to boot. "Getting to now your gear" series.
Smaller focus point and some more time. Beginning and end of the piece used light levels even lower and some artificial mist to boot. "Getting to now your gear" series.You seem to know your gear by now, impressive pictures :)
How much menu diving is involved in the daily use of the Z6?
Honestly, very little.
I have a few things in MyMenu just in case, but rarely do I go in there. Mostly it is to switch out the manual focus lens info. Other things like AF settings are in the "i" menu.
Thanks, Andrew. The back of the camera lacks the controls found on some DSLRs, so I wondered if that was an issue in use, or not. Apparently not, which is good news. :)
it hasn't been for me...and I thought it might initially. I do much prefer to have the AF selection on the camera body, but the touch screen controls make things simpler.
You may find that is not something you like, especially if coming from a DSLR or not having used a mirrorless camera before. Handling and use are the only way for you to know for sure if it is acceptable to you.
How much menu diving is involved in the daily use of the Z6?
You seem to know your gear by now, impressive pictures :)Thanks Bent. I looked today at the shutter count. I have using it almost exclusively since I got it. Many shots and situations later I´m getting comfortable with the changes and getting used to the strengths. Great tool. Silent shooting is the biggest news for me.
Will miss you in Scotland.
Paco, nice teaching aid and images. I was surprise how quiet the Z6 shutter is EFCS. Would not even need to go full Silent for much of my music shooting.My pleasure. I still feel I owe you all many times over and I´m happy to share and contribute :) . I use EFC most of the time. Quiet and fast, switching to silent when needed.
Many thanks for sharing.
Tom
Honestly, very little.Same here. Controls, function buttons and "I" menu take care of things. Only occasionally going into menus. Formatting the memory card and looking at battery status being my main reason to do so.
I have a few things in MyMenu just in case, but rarely do I go in there. Mostly it is to switch out the manual focus lens info. Other things like AF settings are in the "i" menu.
it hasn't been for me...and I thought it might initially. I do much prefer to have the AF selection on the camera body, but the touch screen controls make things simpler.Touch screen comes in handy but it is not my main interaction with the camera. One of the things I´m using is assign the fn2 -front camera, down- plus dials to work as the dslr to select mode and focus area. Normally with every other point active to speed up the movement as it suits better my personal needs.
You may find that is not something you like, especially if coming from a DSLR or not having used a mirrorless camera before. Handling and use are the only way for you to know for sure if it is acceptable to you.
I'm not really in the market for a Z, I'm just nosey. Thanks for the explanation. :)Questions are hard to come by. Please, keep it up ;)
I've seen surprisingly little moiré issues with files from either Z6 or Z7. Or maybe I shouldn't be surprised. The first has an AA filter and the second has the extra-high resolution both measures of which combat moiré to a large extent.
Today, doing test shooting for a specific project involving an Olympus OM 28mm f/3.5 lens, I observed strong moiré for the first time. This issue was present in NEF files, but not with the corresponding in-camera jpgs. Thus it appears that the EXPEED 6 processor massages picture in an efficient manner to avoid moiré problems. I ran the NEFs through several RAW converters with similar result.
The entire scene is here, and below a section presented 100% to show strong moiré in the NEFs and the apparent lack of it in the camera-made jpg.
Has any of our Z camera users encountered such issues? Ping back here.
Interesting observation. Have you seen what the corresponding in-camera jpgs look like?
Sooner than I had expected , the factory parts I ordered for making an extension ring for native Z lenses arrived.
I have to decide on extension thickness and a suitable platform to mount the parts, but the basic details including the contact pins and signal cable are now in place.
If the project is a success (to be seen), I can provide the part code numbers.
Might be power to the AF motor of the lens? Early days yet, I just got the parts and have yet to decide on the final solution to the extension ring.
On another note, this is an example of the proverbial banding with silent shutter. All else equal, at 1/200th of a second, first shot with efc and second one with silent shutter. Even on the viewfinder the effect was present.This is a Z6/7 phenomenon that occurs with pulsed lights, like LED, is it not?
Sooner than I had expected , the factory parts I ordered for making an extension ring for native Z lenses arrived.
I have to decide on extension thickness and a suitable platform to mount the parts, but the basic details including the contact pins and signal cable are now in place.
If the project is a success (to be seen), I can provide the part code numbers.
What a nice Nikon Lego set ;D
This is a Z6/7 phenomenon that occurs with pulsed lights, like LED, is it not?I don´t know what kind but I think it was some incandescent as for the temperature of the light. Pulsing was present even on the EVF
Apparently, museums are switching to LEDs.
This is a Z6/7 phenomenon that occurs with pulsed lights, like LED, is it not?The bands look like they were generated in-camera, since the bands go though the entire frame - through shadows and across the floor and walls. If there was pulsed lighting you would expect the pulses not to show through shadows and they would be at different angles on the floor and walls.
Apparently, museums are switching to LEDs.
Paco, is your camera set up for proper flickering protection (@50Hz) ?
The bands look like they were generated in-camera, since the bands go though the entire frame - through shadows and across the floor and walls. If there was pulsed lighting you would expect the pulses not to show through shadows and they would be at different angles on the floor and walls.
You should try getting a longer shutter speed. Preferably not longer than 1/50sec. My hunch is that the banding is due to the light source.
The bands look like they were generated in-camera, since the bands go though the entire frame - through shadows and across the floor and walls. If there was pulsed lighting you would expect the pulses not to show through shadows and they would be at different angles on the floor and walls.
I thought banding in flickering light was a pretty well established byproduct of the electronic shutter when using silent mode (that both opens and closes the shutter). The electronic shutter does not open over the whole frame at a time, but (horizontal) line by line. We have not gotten to the stage of instantaneous global shutters in these bodies - still too costly.
On another note, this is an example of the proverbial banding with silent shutter. All else equal, at 1/200th of a second, first shot with efc and second one with silent shutter. Even on the viewfinder the effect was present.
My pleasure.
I don't shoot in museums normaly but theater lights are changing to led more and more and that's my concern. Learning to deal with it may be crucial in soon. Led color being the second biggest potencial issue.
My pleasure.Paco, yes, all of the venues I shoot in are modernizing. Tungsten is gone but several conflicting types of energy saving lights and some venues have mixtures due to funds. Means I really need to check each venue before going to shoot and check which lights will be on for the shoot. Fortunately one venue where we shoot a Charity concert twice a year is a very old building and they will do it all at once at some point (they will re-wire the concert hall completely.
I don't shoot in museums normaly but theater lights are changing to led more and more and that's my concern. Learning to deal with it may be crucial soon. Led color being the second biggest potencial issue.
Question for Birna:
How do AI-s lenses like Noct/105 2.5/28 2.8 do with the Z7 vs Z6? I'm currently undecided as to which Z to purchase and am wary that one may be more forgiving with old lenses than the other.
On saying that, old lenses work well enough for me on D850 so the question may be academic
TIA
True Story:
I was supposed to go out and buy the Nikon Z6...the mailman arrived and delivered a battered-but working Nikon FM3a. :o :o :o
I thought to myself...do I really need the best and the latest when all I take are pictures of Japanese aunties and drunk salarymen. ::)
BOOM, instant satori (Buddhist "realization moment"). what I really want is a Nikon Df2 ::)
True Story:
I was supposed to go out and buy the Nikon Z6...the mailman arrived and delivered a battered-but working Nikon FM3a. :o :o :o
I thought to myself...do I really need the best and the latest when all I take are pictures of Japanese aunties and drunk salarymen. ::)
BOOM, instant satori (Buddhist "realization moment"). what I really want is a Nikon Df2 ::)
That's exactly why I'm still using the "old" Df... ;)
Often one hears the Z files being 'pliable' in post processing. I would rather say 'malleable' as there is an amazing tolerance to grossly wrong exposure.
A case in point, from a recent sequence with the 100mm f/1.6 XR-Heligon on my Z6. The camera was in 'M' mode and the first shot came out so overexposed the preview was nearly all pure white. I had forgot about ISO being set to 3200 and thus maxed out shutter speed at 1/8000 sec. Reducing ISO to 250 and shutter speed to 1/200 sec got the exposure all right.
Run through Photo Ninja later, both NEFs produced quite similar output (depth-of-field is paper-thin with the lens at close range, so focus is not identical as I used a hand-held camera).
The first frame here is at least 5 stops off exposure-wise. Still most of the details are visible, except for some loss of extreme highlights.
the wife said: "what are you going to do with all the cameras that you have? isn't what you enough for you?" :o :o :o end of discussion.
now, if only they came out with a better adapter that can at least allow me to shoot wide-open with Ai-S lenses and stop it down before exposure then that would override my fear for my wife ::)
Place a broken-off tooth-pick into the FTZ (to jam the min.aperture sensor) and you can do exactly that. For a more permanent solution, use epoxy glue.
Can anyone confirm that the Z6 & 7 have a Bulb mode and Long Exposure NR capable of being turned off? Reason I ask is it is not mentioned in the specs as it is for the DSLR's and I've already returned my demo :-[
Thanks,
John
The bulb mode is accessed by selectinh «M» mode and turning the command wheel beyond 30 sec. LE NR can be turned off.Thanks, just like always, eh? Don’t know why Ithought they might have changed it.
I was just reading this post on the Nikkor 55mm f/1.2 and noticed how it gives some insight into the reasons behind the much reduced flange distance of the Z cameras.
https://imaging.nikon.com/history/story/0049/index.htm (https://imaging.nikon.com/history/story/0049/index.htm)
Section I is most informative and comes to a close with a discussion of how the Increased flange distance of the SLR made large diameter lens design more difficult.
But lens designers possessed strong desire to commercialize again the f/1.4 and f/1.1-1.2 lenses they had successfully produced for range-finder cameras. Every designer apparently thought it was problematical that the future camera system that made its debut with so much fanfare was actually inferior to the existing system.
Also an interesting discussion of why the 50mm”normal” lens is actually 51.6mm.
I’d read this article ilong sfo but it becomes interesting again in the new context.
Also an interesting discussion of why the 50mm”normal” lens is actually 51.6mm.
The lack of eye AF...
Here's a quick test of the face detection performance (AF-C) with the Sigma 105/1.4 Art. To me the so-called lack of eye AF is perhaps not a big an issues as some want it to be. This model (read: the teenager in the house) would kill me if I didn't edit out a few spots here and there...so there you have it ;D.
Naaah, more like indifferent and impatient. Which is the normal mode for a teenager I guess.
The lack of eye AF...
Here's a quick test of the face detection performance (AF-C) with the Sigma 105/1.4 Art. To me the so-called lack of eye AF is perhaps not a big an issues as some want it to be. This model (read: the teenager in the house) would kill me if I didn't edit out a few spots here and there...so there you have it ;D.
Naaah, more like indifferent and impatient. Which is the normal mode for a teenager I guess.
she looks pi**ed... ;D
I did a double-take when I read this comment originally.
I guess Akita meant “she looks annoyed, angry etc”
In English, when we use this expression it means the person is very obviously under the influence of alcohol (which as many parents will confirm, is entirely possible for a teenager....)
You are right. Does "English" mean British English?
Yes, British English. Also Australian and New Zealand English.
In Australia and New Zealand, to mean “she looks annoyed, angry etc” we would say 'pissed off'
In North American English, the complete expression is 'pissed off' [=angry, upset], but in use, it is frequently shortened---by North Americans--- to 'pissed'. Hence the confusion with the British English original.
Akira, thank you for the unintended comic relief. After a late night digging through my wife's filing system looking for a document the Airport immigration Officers said she needed to get back into India in three weeks time, I needed a chuckle ;D . I have those three weeks to decide on buying a Z6, As an American living in London for 27 years I had a few brushes with the Languages ;) .
I will post a question concerning Z6 once I have figured out the wording, still on my first cup of coffee .
Tom
In North American English, the complete expression is 'pissed off' [=angry, upset],
I have those three weeks to decide on buying a Z6..
Tom
I have come to love shooting with silent shutter. It is so peaceful.me too, one of my favorite things from the V1, and now also available on my x-t3
.
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.Low movement but they seem to be hot enough
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Movement was on the low side for a dance-music-theater show.
A token
... and the camera is blamed for being true to the character of the light ,,,,
Meanwhile, being grounded myself by an unfortunate car accident, I experimented with my current Z cameras to learn how effective they protect against any UV entering their sensors. Mounting the UV-Nikkor 105mmf/4.5 with the Baader U filter on either Z6 or Z7 does allow visual focusing even through that dense filter. Well, provided there is full daylight and finder illumination is increased from the zero setting. Still just enough to do manual focusing with the unmodified stock camera in UV.
Oh well. Back to waiting for the Customs to release my UV/IR Z6.
My third Z camera, a Z6 modified to be "full spectrum", is on its way. It safely crossed the Atlantic in a minimum of time. However, for now it is stuck in Norwegian Customs and the upcoming Easter means there likely will be two weeks yet before they release it from their firm grip. After slapping a healthy amount of VAT on the shipment, of course.
Problem is my car not me this time :( As I live in the sticks so to speak, a car is necessary to be able to move around.Good to hear, that it is only mechanical problems
I most certainly will attend the NG Scotland meet-up 2019.
better car broken than Birna broken!
Meanwhile, a nifty accessory arrived just in time for spring flower exploration: the new Z extension tube made by Fotodiox. This 15mm ring has pass-through contacts so allows any native Z-mount lens to operate will all functionality intact. On the 35/1.8 S-Line Nikkor I got nearly 1:1 magnification, but the working distance at the near end is extremely short. One has to remove the sunshade from the lens. The Fotodiox tube suits the 50/1.8 S-Line better to yield around 1:3 magnification. Image quality with either lens in combination with the Fotodiox extension is surprisingly good.
Autofocus works with the extension, but is significantly slowed down in the near range.
The extension comes in a luxury, very posh wooden box, so one gets added bonus for the pretty stiff price of this item.
Meanwhile, a nifty accessory arrived just in time for spring flower exploration: the new Z extension tube made by Fotodiox. This 15mm ring has pass-through contacts so allows any native Z-mount lens to operate will all functionality intact. On the 35/1.8 S-Line Nikkor I got nearly 1:1 magnification, but the working distance at the near end is extremely short. One has to remove the sunshade from the lens. The Fotodiox tube suits the 50/1.8 S-Line better to yield around 1:3 magnification. Image quality with either lens in combination with the Fotodiox extension is surprisingly good.
Autofocus works with the extension, but is significantly slowed down in the near range.
The extension comes in a luxury, very posh wooden box, so one gets added bonus for the pretty stiff price of this item.
Impressive, thanks for the link.
How long was Eve in Paradise? Shot IR with the 100mm f/1.6 Rodenstock today and lowered ISO to 200 as the lens lets a lot of light through ... B+W 093 filter (~Wratten 87C).
Heavy banding was immediately evident. Even stronger in presence for a follow-up shot at Low1 (~50ISO).
100% crop to show strong banding with the Z6 modified by LifePixel. The banding is seen everywhere not just in shadows.
Alternatives none, intention to return it for a refund.
We both own at least one Df, but you have a Z7 and I don't. Lucky you. That sensor is really, really good.
Why does your Z6 see most usage?
Never encountered a fly-by-wire focusing lens that gave anything near the precision what a good MF lens (with long focus throw) could provide.
One of the main differences between the Z cameras and DSLR's is startup time; nearly instantaneous for a Nikon DSLR but it takes a while for a Z.
Never encountered a fly-by-wire focusing lens that gave anything near the precision what a good MF lens (with long focus throw) could provide.
...
The ILC market is not doing well at all. It is interesting to see how prices of both Z6 and Z7 have dropped during the last weeks.
I had my first Z6 outing this afternoon. A guick Jpeg. Z6 + 70-200mm f4.
It finds faces everywhere and it is faster with lowlights, even just a feet :) . I think it also consumes battery faster but that is a sensation and will have to be tested properly.Very, very good images, some of them even stunning, with its deep mood and razor composition. Well done! And yes, batteries drained much faster, became a problem. LZ
It seems that a fully 100% reliable BT connection for location data between the Z7 and my iPhone is still a Fata Morgana, but things got better recently with the latest iPhone update.
Very, very good images, some of them even stunning, with its deep mood and razor composition. Well done! And yes, batteries drained much faster, became a problem. LZ
Z6, 70-200 fl @2.8, silent shooting mode. Manual exposure. AF changing from full auto face and eye C, to dynamic area C. 1600 iso with adjustment in post as needed.
In entertaining the unthinkable: to sell the d750. Silent in theater has become a must have for me now.
Awesome news for the Sony users whom are (thinking of) jumping to the Zee cameras, Gabale is working on an electronic Sony FE to Nikon Z mount!!!!The Techart TZE-01 Sony E to NZ can be ordered and is due to ship in about a week. I am still awaiting more info on using it with the Techart Pro LM -E for AF of my LM Mount lenses on the Z6. I will wait until I've had more info from my contact in China before ordering. I have high hopes for my favourite Batis Lenses and small LM lenses. At the moment orders can be made on eBay UK, most likely others. You can also order on Techart site. Interesting that eBay does not mentioned the rumoured included USB Dock for FW updates.
Check the details here at F&M:
https://www.fredmiranda.com/forum/topic/1579875/16
This opens up a whole lot of possibilities for those whom invested heavily in Sony E adapters over the last couple of years.
Personally this would mean that one adapter can be used to:
- Adapt my Voigtlander 15/4.5 FE and Zeiss 35/1.4 FE
- Adapt the Voigtlander 125/2.5 APO with the Metabones Canon EF to FE adapter
- Use the Voigtlander close focus (helicoid) Leica M to FE adapter with the 50/1.2, 85/1.2 and 100/1.6 Heligon
- Make the mentioned manual lenses in to AF lenses with the Techart Leica M to FE autofocus adapter
Some examples here on NR where they've mounted a Sony 55/1.8 FE, a Canon EF 50mm and a Leica M lens:
https://nikonrumors.com/2019/01/18/this-is-the-upcoming-techart-autofocus-lens-adapter-for-nikon-z-mount.aspx/#more-131743
I was hoping for such an adapter but didn't think it would materialise so quickly.
And yes this is why I split my adapters, it's all about the Lego ;D ;D
The Techart TZE-01 Sony E to NZ can be ordered and is due to ship in about a week. I am still awaiting more info on using it with the Techart Pro LM -E for AF of my LM Mount lenses on the Z6. I will wait until I've had more info from my contact in China before ordering. I have high hopes for my favourite Batis Lenses and small LM lenses. At the moment orders can be made on eBay UK, most likely others. You can also order on Techart site. Interesting that eBay does not mentioned the rumoured included USB Dock for FW updates.
Cheers,
Tom
Very succesful experiment
Sorry to hear about your mishaps. Cameras can be replaced however, so hope there was no personal damage inflicted.
The Z6 balances and handles nicely with the 105/1.4E. In fact, I'm taking that very combination along on next trip (leaving for the southern coast tomorrow early). The 300PF does well too. No experience with the other lenses on your list. The DC-Nikkor 135/2 is a perfect match for my Z-cameras though.
I broke my D750 and Oly PEN-F so I am in the market for a new system. For now, I want to purchase only one camera.Hi Peter, sorry to read about your mishap with the D750 and Pen-F. I own/handled the 70-200mm f4 with FTZ on the Z6 and that's a very nice combination. Nikon still knows how to design ergonomically sound cameras.
The Z6 is my main option but I am wondering how balanced the system is with lenses like the 70-200mm f4, 300mm f4 PF , the 105 1.4E and the Zeus milvus 135mm, all obviously with FTZ Adapter.
Can anyone share their experience, e.g. in using these lenses with the Z6/Z7?
I may add a D850 or Z7 later.
Thanks for your help!
Looks nice Birna, lots of lines in this image.
Pure UV shows lots of striping, IR less, and false-colour emulated Infrared Ektachrome virtually none. Most of these cases can be dealt with by the Topaz Denoise plugins, or by processing the NEFs in RawTherapee which has a built-in anti-striping filter.
I guess Luc was referring to the geometric lines converging towards the center of the image. ::)Akira obviously knows my shooting style and preferences very well, so yes I was referring to that non-technical aspect.
The Techart TZE-01 Sony E to NZ can be ordered and is due to ship in about a week. I am still awaiting more info on using it with the Techart Pro LM -E for AF of my LM Mount lenses on the Z6. I will wait until I've had more info from my contact in China before ordering. I have high hopes for my favourite Batis Lenses and small LM lenses. At the moment orders can be made on eBay UK, most likely others. You can also order on Techart site. Interesting that eBay does not mentioned the rumoured included USB Dock for FW updates.I've ordered one today, mainly for the Voigtlander 15/4.5 VME and 125/2.5 APO but also the Sony Zeiss 35/1.4E which still seems to be best mirrorless 35mm out there.
Cheers,
Tom
I've ordered one today, mainly for the Voigtlander 15/4.5 VME and 125/2.5 APO but also the Sony Zeiss 35/1.4E which still seems to be best mirrorless 35mm out there.
Will also test the LM-E AF adapter :)
I broke my D750 and Oly PEN-F so I am in the market for a new system. For now, I want to purchase only one camera.
The Z6 is my main option but I am wondering how balanced the system is with lenses like the 70-200mm f4, 300mm f4 PF , the 105 1.4E and the Zeus milvus 135mm, all obviously with FTZ Adapter.
Can anyone share their experience, e.g. in using these lenses with the Z6/Z7?
I may add a D850 or Z7 later.
Thanks for your help!
May I ask one more question regarding the Z6/Z7?
How does the EVF perform in bright sunlight for someone with glasses compared to OVF? With my (ex) Fuji X-T1 I had to shield the EVF with my hand.
I've done the same on all mirrorless cameras with EVF tha I've used over the years.
I also have to make a shade when I look at the LCD screen in the strong against-the-light situations.
Thank you, Akira. I was already afraid of that and it might be a reason to buy another D750 instead of a Z6 despite the multiple advantages of the Z6 compared to the D750
Akira, if there is one, I have not seing it.
Thank you for the feedback, Paco. The thin bright gray frame is always "on" on Panasonic, and can be "switched on" on Fujifilm by checking the "Framing Outline" checkbox in the Display Custom Setting menu in the Screen Set-up menu.thank you Akira ! Very useful tip
thank you Akira ! Very useful tip
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The next step is to decide whether I send the D750 for repair.
Peter, I do not know how many Nikon F-mount legacy lenses that you have, but if you do have a number (like I do), then I suggest that you first need to try them out on the Z6 with the FTZ adapter and form your own personal judgement as to whether their operation on the Z6 is to your liking in comparison to how they worked for you on the D750.
Whilst the Z6/7 are effectively lens brand agnostic, some flexibility is lost in the instance of those lenses without metering chips in them That said, there is a whole plethora of non-Nikon lenses that the Z6/7 can utilise via adapters that a conventional Nikon DSLR cannot use because of the difference in lens register distances (46.5mm for the DSLRs versus 16mm for the Z6/7).
I like my Z7, but I will not be getting rid of my Nikon DSLRs anytime soon. YMMV.
If you tape over the Zeiss 135mm contacts, you can (must) use the aperture ring, if that's what you prefer. But then you have to manually set the focal length/max aperture and lose some exif data...
No Z-cam here, but just as a reminder: there is the possibility of controlling the settings applied at import in Lightroom. Do you have "Auto Tone" selected here?...
3. Besides applying the camera profile, LR mystically adjusts exposure ,highlights, shadows, sharpens with a 2.0 radius and reduces both color and luminance noise.
Am I doing something wrong or do others have similar experience?
Three things struck me in using the Z6 for a few days and looking at the RAW files in LR:
1. The colors are rather saturated compared to those of the D750.
2. Noise levels seems to be higher than those of the D750 at comparable ISO levels.
3. Besides applying the camera profile, LR mystically adjusts exposure ,highlights, shadows, sharpens with a 2.0 radius and reduces both color and luminance noise.
Am I doing something wrong or do others have similar experience?
Today I had my first real test of the Z6 in the field at an event. I must admit that I have to get used to it. The system has its advantages but it is not as snappy as the D750. Especially the startup time is annoying. However, the most disappointing part is the poor battery life. I used EVF only but the battery was dead after appt. 250 shots. Fortunately the d750 batteries work fine so I could finish the job. But I am sure I will get used to it.
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I was not happy with the results of the Standard setting(s) which resulted in unnatural, over saturated colors (at least on my calibrated Eizo screen). Using the Neutral setting helped somewhat but I like the results of the D810 and D750 better. I can only guess about the cause of this, including my lack of experience in using the Z6. I haven’t worked with camera/color profiles either.
Due to the Z6 "annoyances", I decided to send my D750 for repair. The camera is now like new again, so I can choose the best one for each situation. And then there is my little PEN-F for travel and documentary work.
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Did you use a Z lens?
Did you use a Z lens?
That's porn ;D
The camera confuses me
I set Raw L plus JPEG L Fine*
Yesterday and this morning only highly compressed Full HD JPEGs were recorded (attached are some of the shitty JPEGs. YES!, I have checked the settings, all fine, there is some button I may have pressed whichof the function I do not understand)
The AF System and the light meter drive me mad
I guess I have to RTFM
I am really angry
OH HELL! I see the orientation info is not compatible with this site!
Same here. I reset my camera and forgot to set the IQ to RAW+Jpeg. And I only got Jpeg fine images and no RAW files! Oh, well...
it was set correctly, only the furking lever was unintentionally moved
Very moody. Is that your kid?
> I guess I have to RTFM
May I suggest downloading the manual as a PDF from Nikon to your computer or phone. On your computer you can search the text using Adobe Acrobat Reader and for your phone there is a Nikon app called Nikon Manual Viewer 2 into which you can download manuals and make searches.
I like paper
... and IKEA book shelves :)
Z6 so far:
there are ergonomic issues, esp the lever at the "DISP" button moved unintendedly several times
there is a new AF system one has to learn
I often have to correct exposure by -2EV to avoid blown highlights, some strange behavior of exposure system (matrix metering)
the editing in NX-D is very different compared to any Nikon camera I have used before
a lot to learn
only one XQD slot
The sunny side:
The IQ is beyond anything, even beyond the D5
AF with native lenses is extremely fast and precise
The EVF is the best I have seen so far, MF is great with it too; the Fuji Medium Format GFX and the Leica SL do not compare well
Lenses used: Native 24-70S f/4.0, 1.4/105E, 1.4/58G, 2.0/200VR all Nikkors. Upvoming: 2.8/60G Micro and esp 1.4/35 Ai-S
Z6 so far:
there are ergonomic issues
there is a new AF system one has to learn
I often have to correct exposure by -2EV to avoid blown highlights, some strange behavior of exposure system (matrix metering)
the editing in NX-D is very different compared to any Nikon camera I have used before
a lot to learn
only one XQD slot
The sunny side:
The IQ is beyond anything, even beyond the D5
AF with native lenses is extremely fast and precise
The EVF is the best I have seen so far, MF is great with it too; the Fuji Medium Format GFX and the Leica SL do not compare well
Lenses used: Native 24-70S f/4.0, 1.4/105E, 1.4/58G, 2.0/200VR all Nikkors. Upvoming: 2.8/60G Micro and esp 1.4/35 Ai-S
Have had the same AF impression. Still playing but have found some that works for me pretty fast.
non of those exposure problems in my side. Have tried spot, matrix and highlight protection and all work pretty nicely -but for stage, there I have blown highlights too, have to go manual as usual)
Have never enjoyed the 35mm ai-s so much as with this camera. I hope it works for you too. I even did a video with spectacular -for me :)- results
Have you tried eye-af with the 200mm wide open? just curious
Enjoy the new gear!
I like paper
i like the paperweight you are holding...
;D
New life for the AF-S 17-35/2.8 with the Nikon Z6
Public Library Lochal. On the left side, the City Café
New life for the AF-S 17-35/2.8 with the Nikon Z6
Public Library Lochal. On the left side, the City Café
I only have it one day now, but I had read a lot before I got it, including all these pages here ;)
I like it a lot. Gives full flexibility with all my lenses and new possibilities with my Rodenstock's, Angenieux's, Visionars and others... I followed some tips Jack gave, with fn1 in zoom 200% and fn2 zoom 50% That works great in combination with the peak highlights. Focussing was never so easy and clear. Also very convenient to switch continously between the back screen and the finder.
The Focus-point you can center in the Custom Settings with f3 OK button Shooting Mode -- > Select center focus point. Clicking on the OK button will immediately center the focus point.
A slower start up time means you have to adapt your working ritual. I have no problems using one card, but that Nikon forces their customers to use extremely expensive XQD cards bothers me.
Tested the 55mm f/3.5 Macro from 1963 :)
Wonderful!Thanks Peter.
I will follow on your findings with the ZYou are welcome, Fons. I have no particular plan, just to get it working as my main walk-around-business-as-usual-replacement-df-camera ;)
i just realized that the magnification doesnt turn off when you half-press the shutter :o :o :o
If that bothers you, assign magnification to F1 or F2 button. Then it is easy to toggle when you need it. I have them set for 50% and 200%. This gives enough zoom to check general focus and if I need very fine focus I use the 200% zoom.I implemented that too and it works great.
i used another button for that. what bugs me is i have to press 2x to magnify and to exit :o :o :oThat is not unlogical, is it? Go in, Go out.
That is not unlogical, is it? Go in, Go out.
i would like to see the whole frame before i snap a photo :o :o :oYes, so go in to set sharp, en go out to see the whole frame to grab the photo. ?
Yes, so go in to set sharp, en go out to see the whole frame to grab the photo. ?pressing another button for it is just an extra step. if half pressing the shutter button releases it then thats one more step gone :o :o :o
pressing another button for it is just an extra step.It is the same button.
It is the same button.
Basically one doesn't move the finger thus push in, view, push again is a pain-free and swift operation.i guess one gets the hang of it after a certain period. i assigned the button somewhere where i can reach it easier.
The alternative, viz. having a light press on the shutter release make the framing go back to full view, means one has to move the hand (or finger).
Initially I thought the zoom in-out procedure on the Z would be a royal pain, but in practice it never bothers me anymore.
Z6+FTZ is now down at € 1499,-
https://www.calumetphoto.de/product/Nikon-Z6-Vollformat-Systemkamera-mit-FTZ-Adapter-und-XQD-Karte/NIKZ6KIT1 (https://www.calumetphoto.de/product/Nikon-Z6-Vollformat-Systemkamera-mit-FTZ-Adapter-und-XQD-Karte/NIKZ6KIT1)
Wow, € 1.499 is a huge discount. Nikon is buying Z-support with potential full frame customers. That also spells trouble for the introduction pricing of the Z DX system and lenses.
Z6+FTZ is now down at € 1499,-
https://www.calumetphoto.de/product/Nikon-Z6-Vollformat-Systemkamera-mit-FTZ-Adapter-und-XQD-Karte/NIKZ6KIT1 (https://www.calumetphoto.de/product/Nikon-Z6-Vollformat-Systemkamera-mit-FTZ-Adapter-und-XQD-Karte/NIKZ6KIT1)
Lifepixel had really botched the conversion of the full-spectrum Z6 by delivering a modified camera badly off the proper register distance. I needed a total of 0.6mm shims to get the camera to focus acceptably. The Z mount itself only allowed 0.1mm of shims were the signal pathway to continue to be functional, thus the remaining 0.5mm had to be added to the front mount on the various lens adapters.I have RawTherapee now installed and running. Since Photo Ninja does not accept my uncompressed RAWS, I was searching for a good alternative.
Pure UV shows lots of striping, IR less, and false-colour emulated Infrared Ektachrome virtually none. Most of these cases can be dealt with by the Topaz Denoise plugins, or by processing the NEFs in RawTherapee which has a built-in anti-striping filter.
I have a Z6 for 2 weeks and, for astart, I use it with old manual Nikkors. The pictures below were taken with the 35/2 OC.
Elias, I always enjoy exotic images of such kind.Thank you Akira for your comment. I am sure you know who fathered the expression "Panta Rei" (or "Panta Rhei") and what it means.
Interestingly, "Panta Rei" was the name of a Hungarian Prog Rock band whose bass player is also a genius engineer of electronics.
226€ (shipment included) seems a little steep for a plastic box hosting two batteries.
Definitely ! plastic galaxy. Like new lenses.
But, don't let's complain, bodies are still made of metal... ; :P
;D
Paco Paco Paco, you make me lust for a Z6, but I already have 3 bodies :o
Nice pictures, that 50mm Seem to be very good.
+ ;).Me too will sell my d500, plus 17-55mm f/2.8, great gear but have not seen frequent use.You’ll like it Fons. No D500 AF tracking, but everything else.
I’ve also discovered that the eye AF works on animals as well...which is a big help when trying to secure good photos of our dog.Have not tried that, will do
Paco Paco Paco, you make me lust for a Z6, but I already have 3 bodies :o
Nice pictures, that 50mm Seem to be very good.
Paco Paco Paco, you make me lust for a Z6, but I already have 3 bodies :o
Nice pictures, that 50mm Seem to be very good.
+ ;).Me too will sell my d500, plus 17-55mm f/2.8, great gear but have not seen frequent use.
You’ll like it Fons. No D500 AF tracking, but everything else.
Also a great step-up with MF-lenses.
I’m sold and now (im)patiently waiting for a Z70 with D500 AF. ;D
For The time being it’s a Z6 + D500
Love those shots, Paco. Bent, that 50/1.8 is a wonder.
Paco Paco Paco, you make me lust for a Z6, but I already have 3 bodies :oAfter reading all 41 pages, I made up my mind: my Z6+FTZ+24-70/4 is arriving Tuesday... without the battery pack (but with an L-bracket with FTZ support). And I'll be keeping my D500.
Nice pictures, that 50mm Seem to be very good.
Love those shots, Paco. Bent, that 50/1.8 is a wonder.Any comparison between the 50 f1.2 and the 50 f1.8S?
Common to the Z lenses I own is an unusual degree of uniform sharpness extending into the corners of the frame. In this regard, they are generally superior to the F-mount Nikkors.
I tried Z7 eye AF on (her majesty) the resident cat. She got rather nervous, and eye AF did not work... ;D
Z7 / 50/1.8S @ F/1.8
Maybe cats have something against Nikon...
Will try the eye AF on the neighbour's cat when I get the chance. The dog was captured with the 200-500. Will try different lenses too.
While you're at it you could also try statues and 2-D drawings of human faces. I wonder if the eye-AF software has an algorithm based on the shape of human faces and the relative position of the eyes to the rest of the face
Ciao from Massimo
I am new to the Z6 and notice my grip is a bit sticky after use. I am relatively sure I have not gotten anything on the grip (but can't rule it out 100%). Does anyone else find the grip sticky?
Just find 2 cheapo but contacted 3-party 1.4 and 2X teleextenders of any manufacturers, remove the glass and you have what are you looking for. For $10-15 all together they will work absolutely satisfactory. Good luck! LZ
If one has to let one body go in exchange for a Z6, should it be D800 or Df, can't decide?
I use the D500 and the D800 for sports, primarily the D500, but I need two bodies, in order to avoid lens change.
I think that all my Nikon 1 will have to go, not used very much, and the Z6 will do even better video than my V2
If one has to let one body go in exchange for a Z6, should it be D800 or Df, can't decide?
I use the D500 and the D800 for sports, primarily the D500, but I need two bodies, in order to avoid lens change.
I think that all my Nikon 1 will have to go, not used very much, and the Z6 will do even better video than my V2
Speaking of tele-converters, I wonder if Nikon (or anyone) will make an integrated TC/FTZ adaptor - something like an FTZ with built-in 1.4x TC. Like native Z lenses it would allow for elements much closer to the sensor so could give better performance, and it would remove the extra interface between the FTZ and TC which may not be perfectly aligned or parallel. It would be useful for those who want to use their big F-mount telephotos on Z cameras and need a little extra reach.
Speaking of tele-converters, I wonder if Nikon (or anyone) will make an integrated TC/FTZ adaptor - something like an FTZ with built-in 1.4x TC. Like native Z lenses it would allow for elements much closer to the sensor so could give better performance, and it would remove the extra interface between the FTZ and TC which may not be perfectly aligned or parallel. It would be useful for those who want to use their big F-mount telephotos on Z cameras and need a little extra reach.
Just a silly question, what is the length of the FTZ adapter?
According to Nikon it is 80mm long, but the difference in flangers focal distance is only 30,5mm :o
I just want to know how large the Z6 will be with old Nikkors.
If you go back to reply #523 in this thread (around page 21 in my system), the same concept was illustrated by Eddie Draaisma, and this led to a little quarrel with Birna.I don't quite understand Birna's objections, maybe a misunderstanding. Any FTZ/TC adaptor would have an overall length and optical design to ensure the camera and lens focus correctly, in exactly the same way the design of F-mount TCs work with F-mount telephotos and cameras. The overall length would probably be greater than the standard FTZ (all other TCs have a positive length), it's not simply a case of stuffing some TC optics inside the current FTZ ...
I tend to agree with you and Eddie that it's a good idea.
Just a silly question, what is the length of the FTZ adapter?With www.camerasize.com you can compare camera+lens combinations (though not with "old" Nikkors)
According to Nikon it is 80mm long, but the difference in flangers focal distance is only 30,5mm :o
I just want to know how large the Z6 will be with old Nikkors.
I don't quite understand Birna's objections, maybe a misunderstanding. Any FTZ/TC adaptor would have an overall length and optical design to ensure the camera and lens focus correctly, in exactly the same way the design of F-mount TCs work with F-mount telephotos and cameras. The overall length would probably be greater than the standard FTZ (all other TCs have a positive length), it's not simply a case of stuffing some TC optics inside the current FTZ ...
I'm not sure whether long lenses (with or without the TC) would be benefited by the short flange back of the Z system
Maybe not, but the rear element of the TC-14III and TC-17 are about as far back as possible. Without the requirement to clear the reflex mirror, it seems likely the designer would place the rear elements closer to the sensor.
We are talking Z-mount here, where would you find an el-cheapo z-mount teleconverter? And then, an 11mm long teleconverter is simply impossible to find even in F mount...There is no any Nikkor Z micro so far. So use F mount thru FTZ. Set any macro (or any other lens you wanna use for macro), to intermediate position to compensate for the longer body of TC. Turn AF off. That's all.
Ciao from Massimo
Luc, Eddie and Paco, thank you for the quick replies.
Wonder what Nikon is measuring :o
With www.camerasize.com you can compare camera+lens combinations (though not with "old" Nikkors)
Like Z6 (with FTZ) vs Df
http://j.mp/2PDs4Jr (http://j.mp/2PDs4Jr)
Has anyone tested the: AF-S 20/1,8 G, Nikkor 35 1.4, Voightländer 90mm f3,5 SL II and Zeiss 35/2 on either Z6 or Z7?
Sorry if it is menthioned someware in the thread, but read it a few times and not found anything!
Krister
Luc, Eddie and Paco, thank you for the quick replies.It's not easy to measure the depth of the FTZ adapter, the weather sealing between Z body and FTZ gets in the way...
Wonder what Nikon is measuring :o
It's not easy to measure the depth of the FTZ adapter, the weather sealing between Z body and FTZ gets in the way...OK, so the hight is measured from the tripod foot?
With a digital caliper, I measured between 31.30 and 31.90 mm. [I did not push the caliper blades to avoid ruining the sealing]. If you average it out and subtract the approximate 1.20 mm of the weather sealing you get 31.60-1.20 = 30.40 mm, very nearly the nominal 30.50 mm that will bring the FTZ lensmount 46.50 mm away from the sensor (Z lens register is 16 mm).
the 0.10 mm difference is to be tolerated, I wasn't looking for absolute precision.
As for the height of the FTZ adapter, my measuring says 80.20 mm, a little more if you account for the white dot
The width of the FTZ adapter is 70.00 mm
Ciao from Massimo
OK, so the hight is measured from the tripod foot?
Not an owner of the Zeiss, but the others have been used on my Z6. No issue at all.
With www.camerasize.com you can compare camera+lens combinations (though not with "old" Nikkors)
Like Z6 (with FTZ) vs Df
http://j.mp/2PDs4Jr (http://j.mp/2PDs4Jr)
Please proceed with the micro-review
It is a cute little camera for sure. Very nice appearance with my small Nikkor-S (RF) lenses. I'll make a micro-review later.
Please proceed with the micro-reviewZ50 is not having in-camera vibration reduction (IBIS), and I suspect it has no focus peaking too. A quick search in the Z50 manual (english version, really quick, I may have overlooked sthg) did not show anything about focus peaking. There are only two references to focus peaking (pages 62 and 277 of the english user manual), which are probably left over from a careless copy/paste of the same paragraphs from the Z6/Z7 manual. I could find no reference to the focus peaking menu that is in the Z6/Z7 manual [in the Z6 camera menu you access it from Photo shooting Menu...Focus Shift Shooting]. These are two of the reasons why I selected a Z6 over a Z50.
Does it support all the goodies (focus peaking..)that Z6/7 do?
Thank you
The Z50 shows the greet dot !! With virtually all my CPU-modified lenses, or native AF/AFS Nikkors.
There is one strange exception discovered so far, namely the 50/1.2 Nikkor AIS; however this lens has the Dandelion chip. It works in principle as I can set apertures like the other CPU-enabled lenses, but the shutter release is locked.
Regarding the startup time, how does it influence the shooting when doing street photography, anyone with input on this. I would not like to end in the same situation as with my Nikon 1 cameras.
Also, the start up time from sleeping is a little long. I may have to delay sleep mode longer and carry batteries. Or shoot more frequently.
Any other day to day observations (or settings) from people who have had it longer?
Rob.
Regarding the startup time, how does it influence the shooting when doing street photography, anyone with input on this. I would not like to end in the same situation as with my Nikon 1 cameras.
The price on a Z6 set it interesting at the moment.
I do some sports photography, but that might not be the Z6 force?I think it is. AF is very very fast on native lenses, and also on the AF-S lenses.
- - On the subject of Z6 vs. Z50 again: Does the IBIS make any real difference with the AIS lenses, the long lenses I mean? The 5.6/400 was my walk-around lens for quite a few years, and I'd quite like to use it in the field again, admittedly for nostalgic reasons more than anything else ... ::)
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Hermann
As a user of another system that has IBIS, it will make an enormous difference. Allowing you to handhold at ridiculously slow shutter speeds!The IBIS makes a huge difference with all the lenses, including the AI, AI-S and Pre-AI
Had a difficult time getting the focus right, quite a learning experience wth the z6,
this' one of the images.
Z6, 50mm f/1.8S cropped
Regarding the Z50: it really is a cute little camera and pretty well built too. Of course it is pared down, control-wise, compared to its bigger siblings, Z6/7, but still qualifies as an easy-to-use and competent camera. <snip>
The 400mm f/5.6 ED-If works well with the Z50, however I for one will need mono- or tripod support for this setup as it is not easy to hold still due to its light weight. Actually, almost the same issue as I ran into with this lens on an FM2 camera in the old days. The manual focusing is easier with the Z50, though. I have used Z50 with lenses as long as the 360-1200 Nikkor.
The following AF Settings help with the Speed
Custom Settings Menu:
A3 - Move to Quick
Video settings affecting stills:
G4 +5 and 'Always'
G5 High
The IBIS makes a huge difference with all the lenses, including the AI, AI-S and Pre-AI
Does that make sense? Or is there a mistake somewhere?I just say IBIS makes in a lot of (perhaps unforseen) cases a big difference.
A related question: I believe - but I may well be wrong there - that cleaning the sensor of cameras with IBIS isn't quite a straightforward as cleaning a sensor of a camera without IBIS. How do you clean the sensor of the Z6/Z7? Just like the sensor of a DSLR, but a bit more carefully in order to make sure you don't damage the IBIS? HermannNo difference at all. Power off will lock the IBIS system and cleaning is identical to other camera's without IBIS.
The Z50 with the 400mm f/5.6 Nikkor ED-IF AIS. Exposure 1/4 sec, f/9. ISO 320.
Photo Ninja has no Z50 profile (yet), thus colours might be a little off, but close enough.
(this is on a tripod, but I took no special precautions and thus no cable/remote release).
Regarding the startup time, how does it influence the shooting when doing street photography, anyone with input on this.
At Fontana di Trevi, Rome.
Z6, 24-70/4s
Wow, this is a classic candid shot! I love it!
I have now read thru the whole thread and I am slightly more confused now than I was before ;D I guess things will fall into place as I learn the pitfalls of this camera.Welcome back Børge and good luck with the Z6. Hopefully you learned something new ;)
Thanks! I have a lot to learn about Z systems autofocus! Would people want a separate thread here for Z system AF discussion?
I am going to buy Z6 with 14-30/4 lens, FTZ....I just purchased the Z6 kit, so will probably try this test:
Is possible to do quick check of the lens re: decenter??
Any advice, please....
Is possible to do quick check of the lens re: decenter??
Any advice, please....
I've been following this thread since it started, and I think it's now about time I got myself a Z as well. I've still got quite a few AIS lenses, and I really want to use them once again in the future. A couple of months ago I was quite sure I'd get myself a Z6, having tried one in the field for a a day. <snip>
Now, after the Z50 came out, I'm not so sure anymore. I normally shoot DX and I'm into wildlife photography, so the Z50 would fit nicely.
I have observed in the Januar thread, that I am not the only one that have observed the odd behavior that the AF box have ben moved while the camera have been idling in the strap.
I tried to have the camera on a table, and the box did not move during sleep.
The behavior is not seen on any of my DSLRs, and the controls feels actually the same way on the Z6, so what has changed?
The box can be reset my pressing several buttons, but it is an annoyance that it moves at all.
I am not able to program the joystick to not move the af box :o, but I may have overlooked something.
Anyone with at solution?
Is it caused by accidentally hitting the monitor that has touch-AF enabled?
Is it caused by accidentally hitting the monitor that has touch-AF enabled?
I just purchased the Z6 kit, so will probably try this test:Congratulations! Enjoy ;)
https://photographylife.com/what-is-a-decentered-lens (https://photographylife.com/what-is-a-decentered-lens)
Congratulations! Enjoy ;)Thank you.
Thank you.Do you know about the feature 'store by orientation' it is keeping the focus points for vertical and horizontal shooting separately,,,
I went for photo walk today, just to test the moving af box, and it did not move :o
So it was not the bouncing on the coat that made it, today all worked fine.
Pressing the shutter release when taking the camera up also solve the turning on lag ;)
Do you know about the feature 'store by orientation' it is keeping the focus points for vertical and horizontal shooting separately,,,Yes, it is also on D500 :)
...This is also how I set up my D850, a good quick 'return to center' for many situations ;)
I use the joystick for moving the AF box on a regular basis, so for me a lock is not a solution. Moving the focus box around means that it is normally off center for a new picture; so I configured pressing the joystick for centering the AF box (default behaviour is AF/AE lock), works well enough for me.
Walking around with the camera on and around your neck and or in your hand touching the viewfinder moves the focus point around :oThis helps:
Disabling the touchscreen for AF is one option for preventing all kinds of unexpected behaviour.
I use the joystick for moving the AF box on a regular basis, so for me a lock is not a solution. Moving the focus box around means that it is normally off center for a new picture; so I configured pressing the joystick for centering the AF box (default behaviour is AF/AE lock), works well enough for me.
Strangely enough, never had any issue with the Markins on the Z cameras even for vertical shooting. Thus your mileage might vary.
For myself it is beneficial the bracket doesn't extend the whole way underneath the body as this would interfere with my fingers when hand-holding the camera. Again, YMMV.
For me I’m talking about an Arca plate, so the only option would be a rectangular arca which is thinner and don’t think that exists....
I noticed that the Z6 does not like the VR in lenses. Ibis seems to be switched off and somehow it works not so well as with non VR lenses.
That is at least my experience with the 24-120 f/4 VR. I also have the feeling that the Camera-IBIS in the Z6 is a lot more effective than VR in a lens but I have only one VR lens ;)
Does that apply to long lenses as well? Say 300mm and above? Because I heard a several claims the IBIS isn't effective at long focal lengths.I didn't notice a difference. My AF-S 300 f/4 works identical with IBIS on the Z 6. But that is a non-VR lens.
Hermann
Does that apply to long lenses as well? Say 300mm and above? Because I heard a several claims the IBIS isn't effective at long focal lengths.I would put it the other way around; VR can be more efficient on long focal length DSLR lenses than just IBIS
Hermann
The lens is seriously sharp. Period.
At f/2 up close, the manifested depth of field is wafer thin. Hand-held, no stacking.
"Hand held, no stacking", and no IBIS. Sharp indeed.
The short register distance of the Z system simply begs for experimental setups. I have tinkered a lot over the last year with surreal combinations, and these efforts were again boosted by the arrival of my Z50. Not because the Z50 is the "best" of the range, it' because it's the smallest. Thus some combinations simply work better there -- for me.
The old Ultra-Micro-Nikkor 55mm f/2 really likes being put on the Z50. With a long helicoid it can focus from far away (but not infinity, unless the helicoid compresses narrowly enough) to approx. life-size 1:1. The lens is seriously sharp. Period.
At f/2 up close, the manifested depth of field is wafer thin. Hand-held, no stacking.
A rose by any other name ...
Just checked EXIF: taken at 1/13 sec, f/2, ISO 200. IBIS doesn't make the image fly on its own.
Beautiful rose.
According to Redbook Nikkor website, the image circle of UMN 55/2.0 at 1/4 is 12mm. I wonder how it can cover the full DX sensor!
Added; are you sure this is for 1:4 reproduction? Then the mothership has a very restrictive view of the lens' actual coverage.
https://www.dpreview.com/interviews/6739481235/ces-2020-interview-nikon-we-are-at-a-transitional-stageThanks for the link, an interesting interview. We can expect more firmware updates, I understand as the main news ;)
Thanks for the link, an interesting interview. We can expect more firmware updates, I understand as the main news ;)Yes. This is welcome news :-)
The Sony E lenses are modern with all what that entails ... I went cursorily into the Sony brand aiming to use old lenses, not to purchase new ones :)I understand what you say!
And then there is the size aspect of the lenses.
John: the lens extends about 13mm inside the helicoid (Pixco 17-31mm M65mm diameter). Focus from infinity to approx. 80cm from film plane.Thanks Birna. Found an 65mm Helicoid with 17-31mm size. However it's not the Pixco brand but it's one of the few around on Ebay.
One of the latest designed adapter for the Nikon Z mount include an additional Macro Helicoid Tube. The so called "Adjustable Macro to Infinity Lens Adapter Suit For M42 Mount to Nikon Z6 Nikon Z7 Camera".
Ordered one for a few M42 lenses like the Carl Zeiss Jena Triotar 135/4
.................................................................
One of the latest designed adapter for the Nikon Z mount include an additional Macro Helicoid Tube. The so called "Adjustable Macro to Infinity Lens Adapter Suit For M42 Mount to Nikon Z6 Nikon Z7 Camera".
Ordered one for a few M42 lenses like the Carl Zeiss Jena Triotar 135/4
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Pixco-Camera-Macro-Focusing-Tube-Helicoid-Adapter-For-M42-Lens-to-Nikon-Z6-Z7/372626154903?hash=item56c23fe597:g:W0YAAOSwBA1ciK6l (https://www.ebay.com/itm/Pixco-Camera-Macro-Focusing-Tube-Helicoid-Adapter-For-M42-Lens-to-Nikon-Z6-Z7/372626154903?hash=item56c23fe597:g:W0YAAOSwBA1ciK6l)
Just a reminder how petite -- and cute -- setup the Z50 provides if coupled with say an old W-Nikkor. Here it is with the excellent W-Nikkor 3,5cm f/1.8 from 1959 (!). The combination still, after all these years, can render tack sharp images.
Then I can use my new AF-P 70-300 VR and old 35/1.8 DX. I also have a Nikkor 12-24 DX which can be used.
Just a reminder how petite -- and cute -- setup the Z50 provides if coupled with say an old W-Nikkor. Here it is with the excellent W-Nikkor 3,5cm f/1.8 from 1959 (!). The combination still, after all these years, can render tack sharp images.
... wonder why it has mechanical shutter. As far as I know the Nikon 1 system only had electronic shutter.
The "i-icon" is stil on LCD screen on "non-silent" mode. Maybe I have not noticed it before but strange when there is a dedicated "i-button" very close…..
It is just a bit strange that I have to select "silent operation" to have 100% electronic shutter and it is not in the shutter menu.The mechanical shutter is needed, look here: https://nikongear.net/revival/index.php?topic=8075.735
With Z50 in silent mode there is fast flicker in the viewfinder when exposure starts and when finished the image just shot shows up in the viewfinder as a sign that image is captured.
It seems I can't select electronic shutter + a artificial click as indication (I am still new to the camera so may still have missed something).
I can understand that even if I shot at 1/4000 sec. with electronic shutter it may take 1/10 sec. or so to make the exposure as line by line is read out and not done in massive parallel operation. This should also be the reason to still benefit from a mechanical shutter. We probably wont see that in the future when the electronics and computer power is fast enough.
The mechanical shutter is needed, look here: https://nikongear.net/revival/index.php?topic=8075.735
Because I had great difficulty in seeing the full screen in the VF(D810, D800, D700, D300 and D200. Although I can’t recall such difficulties when I had a D70s!I never had a D70, but started in digital with a D200.
Today I´ve got weird behavior: the Z6 with the 24-70 4S could not focus to infinity, not even manually. Turning off the camera and taking out and in again the lens fixed the issue.I have experienced the same. A few times. Probably with the FTZ adapter. In my case(s) switching off the camera was sufficient.
Has anyone encounter the same problem? Did I activate a limiter of some kind or any other funtion by mistake?
There is a FW update from early April for the 24/70 4 STrue, but it addresses only the parking of the aperture in an intermediate position (f:8 ?) when camera is turned off. Unless -as Birna pointed out- they slipped in more FW corrections...
Must be your eyes, Mike? I experienced no problems even with glasses on.Thankfully no issues with the Z6 EVF! I am of the opinion that eyepoint relief was too short in my earlier D cameras for my eyes, hence my complaining and me then leaving Nikon for pastures new. Weight was another issue for me!
So, what about the Z system -- any viewing issues there?
-- Although I really appreciate the Nikon Z optics they are physically large!
And quite light weight.Absolutely Birna!
The rather superfluous and misleading EXIF field 'FocalLengthIn35mmFormat' is sometimes plain wrong, in particular for some combinations of telephoto lenses and TC. As the format doesn't change focal length at all, the information is not required anyway. It just confuses people.
I'm not sure, maybe I should start a thread in the lens subforum, but I figured I can hide my question here.
I want to make more use of my travel tripod when shooting landscape and similar subjects and while it is able to hold D850 and 24-70/2.8 E quite well, I feel a little uncomfortable with such a top-heavy and off-centered setup. If I bump one of the tripod legs the camera could find itself landing on the rocks, and I wish to avoid that prospect.
I'm wondering how people find the mechanical quality and robustness of the 14-30/4 and 24-70/4; these are collapsing designs and I'm concerned about the durability of the mechanism. I am not a regular filter user but may occasionally use a graduated or not graduated ND. Especially when sliding the graduated filter in the holder, some force is applied to the front of the lens. Will it hold over long term?
I am impressed with the contrast and backlight performance exhibited in other people's work made with the 14-30/4 but as it's quite expensive I want to consult about the ruggedness aspect. I could of course wait for the 14-24/2.8 Z but I suspect it might not be as good in handling bright light in the scene (the DSLR version ghosts prolifically) as the f/4 is, and it would also not solve the balance issue with my travel tripod. And it might not take normal filters.
Thanks for any insights.
...
I'm wondering how people find the mechanical quality and robustness of the 14-30/4 and 24-70/4
... And it might not take normal filters.
Thanks for any insights.
The 14-30mm/4 uses 82mm filters, not really the "normal" 77mm.
I find the build quality of the 14-30mm very good, with no play at all when turning to extend the lens in the operating position. Good enough for me!
And I wouln't drop my equipment on gravel or concrete, either!
I was out yesterday and shoot with Z50 + 16-50 kit zoom lens. It is a very handy combination. Lens seems very sharp. If I zoom in to 100% images are "pixel sharp".
What I discovered is that camera exposes so "white histogram" is inside limits. I guess this is luminance. But I can see that the RGB histogram in post processing on PC then usually a color is over exposed. I can "pull" is back by applying -0.5 - -1.2 EV or so. In the pictures below with blue sky the blue color was over exposed and picture of red car the red color was over exposed. I use standard matrix metering. I can't see the overexposure in histogram in viewfinder. Are the Z-cameras "color blind"? ….ok.....I shoot RAW so no problem in getting the color back and if this kind of over exposure reduces noise then it is probably as it should be.
I am satisfied with picture quality…
I know that behavior from processing D500 files. You should go for a less agressive than the "standard" preset as a starting point for your RAW workflow. Once you get used to these files you will be more than happy with them. ACR can explore other depth and heights than NX-D, which is better in the color domain.
I have been shooting for the last couple of weeks with older Nikon bodies and coming back to the Z6 with the 50mm 1.8 puts the advantages of the new system into perspective. Just the overall sound and the precision and consistency of the autofocus
I have been shooting for the last couple of weeks with older Nikon bodies and coming back to the Z6 with the 50mm 1.8 puts the advantages of the new system into perspective. Just the overall sound and the precision and consistency of the autofocusBeautiful Portrait. I do like the AF and sound of the D3s more than the Z's ;)
I have been shooting for the last couple of weeks with older Nikon bodies and coming back to the Z6 with the 50mm 1.8 puts the advantages of the new system into perspective. Just the overall sound and the precision and consistency of the autofocusVery nice portrait, lovely B/W conversion.
Beautiful Portrait. I do like the AF and sound of the D3s more than the Z's ;)
Thank you all for your encouragement.I know. There are a number of situations which require silence. But if you can do what you want, I like the a small click as a kind of recognition ;)
I may be bias against louder sound. One specific time I had a big problem with the shutter/mirror sound of the D700 on a theater. Since then, the quieter the better :)
Unfortunately, only a pouch for filters not a "new" FTZ with drop-in filter drawer ....
Thanks for showing whats possible!
Looks like a Frankenstein contraption :o
It's like, does everything but not very well instead of purpose build,,, I know what I prefer
Then I looked at the aperture when I used the wheel to change the value. It stoppes down to 5.6 like a "real" rangefinderThis feature has been noted before, a and is a good compromise. As you say, at f/5.6 and wider, the camera still has enough light for metering and focusing. I'm not sure how well the camera works with the zooms that end at f/6.3 and smaller :o
...
I guess that down to 5.6 the camera can make everything it should "precise enough" like AF and Exposure but from 5.6 to 22 there is not "light enough" to function properly.
This was just an observation I was not aware of :-)
The Australian prices of Nikon FTZ Adapters have skyrocketed in price by around 2 to 2.5 times since what they were six months ago.
Has this been the case in other countries or is it just a local phenomenon?
TIA.
The Australian prices of Nikon FTZ Adapters have skyrocketed in price by around 2 to 2.5 times since what they were six months ago.Nothing like this in NYC. I did see refurbished (by Nikon) one, for $200. LZ
Has this been the case in other countries or is it just a local phenomenon?
TIA.
The Australian prices of Nikon FTZ Adapters have skyrocketed in price by around 2 to 2.5 times since what they were six months ago.
Has this been the case in other countries or is it just a local phenomenon?
TIA.
By the way Z50 in such a big lens is not a good idea you need something bigger to handle better
Z6 and 50mm 1.8 S. Small and incredible capabilities. I had a blast at the hairdresser while the missus was getting ready for work.Lovely combination with colours and structures.
Z6 and 50mm 1.8 S. Small and incredible capabilities. I had a blast at the hairdresser while the missus was getting ready for work.Superb framing and capture of details in the hair and face! very bold wig 8) but goes well with the makeup ;D Thanks for sharing
I settled with the Gabale L-Bracket but also have the Smallrig when I want a larger rig :PThanks Simone, both look like what I was looking for :)
So,,, I have joined the so called Mirrorless side - I just received a Z7 with FTZ and a I'm thrilled 8) I will definitely keep the D850 for action etc. A constant annoyance I have is the constant need for reading glasses when using my D850 for using the menu, settings and the rear display for image sharpness and details,,, The Z7 completely solves this since I can use the viewfinder,,, Maybe old news for most of you but new for me ;)
The second feature was the body build in VR, really nice feature that gives new life and functionality to all of my AFS lenses that simply not is available with build in lens VR, or I have chosen not to upgrade due to various reasons.
Looking forward to mastering focus peaking, getting the most out of the now, MF lenses AF-D and Ais ;D
Z5 sensor has been tested at photonstophotos.net
Photographic Dynamic Range (pretty similar to D750):
https://www.photonstophotos.net/Charts/PDR.htm#Nikon%20D750,Nikon%20Z%205,Nikon%20Z%206 (https://www.photonstophotos.net/Charts/PDR.htm#Nikon%20D750,Nikon%20Z%205,Nikon%20Z%206)
Input Referred Noise:
https://www.photonstophotos.net/Charts/RN_e.htm#Nikon%20Z%205_14,Nikon%20Z%206_14 (https://www.photonstophotos.net/Charts/RN_e.htm#Nikon%20Z%205_14,Nikon%20Z%206_14)
Z-5 pattern noise compared to Z6 (Need to make selections left and right, etc) :
https://www.photonstophotos.net/Charts/Sensor_Heatmaps.htm (https://www.photonstophotos.net/Charts/Sensor_Heatmaps.htm)
Z5 seems to have a little less banding than Z6, but not sure if the Z6 data are from after the firmware improvement:
Really enjoying the Z7 a lot ;) However,,, this had me a little puzzled :o
First image is at f/1.8 50mm Z f/1.8 1/8000 - Tack sharp, see also the 100% crop
Last image is at f/5.6 1/800 - Blurry, building top left even looks like it has movement - I admit I shot it in great haste so maybe the focus did not have time to finish since I was in AF-C - Or I moved the camera before the shutter closed,,, Or?
Does the 50mm have several focus motors or just one? Could look like nothing at all is sharp, if one element was still not in position,,,
IBIS was On.
Really enjoying the Z7 a lot ;) However,,, this had me a little puzzled :o
First image is at f/1.8 50mm Z f/1.8 1/8000 - Tack sharp, see also the 100% crop
Last image is at f/5.6 1/800 - Blurry, building top left even looks like it has movement - I admit I shot it in great haste so maybe the focus did not have time to finish since I was in AF-C - Or I moved the camera before the shutter closed,,, Or?
Does the 50mm have several focus motors or just one? Could look like nothing at all is sharp, if one element was still not in position,,,
IBIS was On.
I have issues transferring video on z50 to iPad-iPhone with SnapBridge you have to wait for the transfer and finally SnapBridge say : camera not found
A new firmware update for the Z cameras.
https://blog.reikanfocal.com/2020/09/nikon-z6-z7-z50-af-fine-tune-firmware-changes/?fbclid=IwAR19ueVoqsmLH4CaLItf4Y6w3tckFgV_gSLKCANrs6yI2MaXVwh8I-m1ego (https://blog.reikanfocal.com/2020/09/nikon-z6-z7-z50-af-fine-tune-firmware-changes/?fbclid=IwAR19ueVoqsmLH4CaLItf4Y6w3tckFgV_gSLKCANrs6yI2MaXVwh8I-m1ego)
https://downloadcenter.nikonimglib.com/en/products/493/Z_6.html?fbclid=IwAR1CVpvivNpFATS6AIQ7OCPp1oXx8dmYWrIISQBpAKxrrjhTNLm3SmoSXIM (https://downloadcenter.nikonimglib.com/en/products/493/Z_6.html?fbclid=IwAR1CVpvivNpFATS6AIQ7OCPp1oXx8dmYWrIISQBpAKxrrjhTNLm3SmoSXIM)
https://downloadcenter.nikonimglib.com/en/download/fw/369.html (https://downloadcenter.nikonimglib.com/en/download/fw/369.html)
https://downloadcenter.nikonimglib.com/en/index.html (https://downloadcenter.nikonimglib.com/en/index.html)
18000 ISO
Z6 Voigtlander 180/4
Another splendid sharp cat portrait John. Keep them coming.
(BTW, how many cats do you have? ;D)
I wonder when the z5,6,7 grip and side bracket will be available outside of Japan. Fine things, but rationed for some reason.
Somebody out there listens to our heartfelt wishes ... cannot tell how much I have missed voice memo on my Z cameras :)
The voice memo works on the Z6 :)Yes, it works ;)
I have to tell you if I saw "Nikon Original Goods" with different size fonts, I would think it was a knock off! Is that normal Nikon labeling? (I'm not implying it is a knockoff, just commenting on poor Nikon quality of the packaging which is normally top notch)
Yes, at last. Voice memo on Z6. Not the most intuitive approach as they obviously had no spare "hardware" button to use directly, so there is an extra round to make the feature available in the menu system. However as it might be, this works. Why Z6 and not Z7? No idea.
By the way, "Save last position" for the focus point works with any lens, not just native Nikkors.
I have to tell you if I saw "Nikon Original Goods" with different size fonts, I would think it was a knock off! Is that normal Nikon labeling? (I'm not implying it is a knockoff, just commenting on poor Nikon quality of the packaging which is normally top notch)
Strickly from an "image quality" standpoint, other than the Z lenses being better than their F cousins, why would a photographer want to switch to the Nikon Z mirrorless system from the already excellent Nikon F DSLR system?
Strickly from an "image quality" standpoint, other than the Z lenses being better than their F cousins, why would a photographer want to switch to the Nikon Z mirrorless system from the already excellent Nikon F DSLR system?
Strickly from an "image quality" standpoint, other than the Z lenses being better than their F cousins, why would a photographer want to switch to the Nikon Z mirrorless system from the already excellent Nikon F DSLR system?
Erlewine. I've seen your stacked photos posted on this site (and elsewhere) for many years. Frankly, I see no improvements in your images since you've gone to Z mirrorless from your D850 bodies (your images produced from both cameras are equally terrific to my eyes). While improved features might make the capture faster or easier, I don't care about that at all, only the final image quality.
Strickly from an "image quality" standpoint, other than the Z lenses being better than their F cousins, why would a photographer want to switch to the Nikon Z mirrorless system from the already excellent Nikon F DSLR system?There's image quality and there are new features with the (not so new) Z series.
...It's more or less the same sensors in D850 and the Z7 I and II and they perform equally well for all normal photography - They are the peak of full frame cameras.
My question really boils down to this... When you look at the photos you've taken with your D850's and compare them against your Z7II images using the same lens, can you tell a difference in the rendering? If there's not significant and easily detectable improvement, I see no need to upgrade to a Z mirrorless.
...
Bruce, if you "mostly shoot custom adapted ("Frankensteined") oddball non-photographic lenses", then the short 16mm sensor to lens flange register distance of the Z6/Z7 camera bodies will allow for all kinds of such lenses to be used with infinity focus via the many adapters now on the market to graft such lenses onto the Nikon Z bodies without having to modify the lenses or their lens mounts as is sometimes needing to be done for the 46.5mm register of the F-bodies.
And for some oddball lenses they simply cannot be put onto an F-body if infinity focus is desired.
The images of both cameras are good. Here is one from the other day on the Z7II, Z 105Macro.