Nikon Z6/7 mirrorless system

[gryphon1911]

I am getting increasingly interested in using the Z7, more than I imagined. I thought I would be using only with adaptive lenses and ignore the three native lenses, but I seem to be changing my mind. I find myself assembling a small kit to go on the road with, which will be something like:

Nikon 7
Nikon Z 24-70mm S
Nikon 50mm S
FTZ
CV-125 mm

What other non-native lenses are folks finding that they want to carry with them. I would like to hear some of your favorites.

For me, perhaps the Voigtlander 180mm, the voigtlander 90mm macro.

Of course I could lug some big lenses, but may not.

If the native lenses continue being this good (correction-wise), this could change my whole lens approach.

Natively, I'm using the 24-70 and I just got the 35/1.8.  f mount in using the 50/1.8 G and the FX 70-300/4.5-5.6 AF-P VR.

[Jack Dahlgren]

I am getting increasingly interested in using the Z7, more than I imagined. I thought I would be using only with adaptive lenses and ignore the three native lenses, but I seem to be changing my mind. I find myself assembling a small kit to go on the road with, which will be something like:

Nikon 7
Nikon Z 24-70mm S
Nikon 50mm S
FTZ
CV-125 mm

What other non-native lenses are folks finding that they want to carry with them. I would like to hear some of your favorites.

For me, perhaps the Voigtlander 180mm, the voigtlander 90mm macro.

Of course I could lug some big lenses, but may not.

If the native lenses continue being this good (correction-wise), this could change my whole lens approach.

I find the 24-70 to be quite good, so have not checked much in the way of lenses between 24-70, but 180ED AI is pretty nice. 55mm f/1.2 is super bright (but still blooms wide open), O Nikkor is easier than ever to focus (by moving back and forth). I will try wide primes sometime soon. Also used 300mm f/2.8 AI but way too heavy to travel with.

[Frank Fremerey]

You are most welcome, Paco. The small details are important

As I understand the trick is reversible?
It is just insulation of a contact?
"Jam down" sounds irreversible?

[Birna Rørslett]

The modification is entirely reversible. No epoxy glue has been applied (for once)

The contact sensor is not "insulated", but jammed in the 'down' position so as to inform the camera the lens is set to its minimum aperture, whether this is true or false.

[Frank Fremerey]

The modification is entirely reversible. No epoxy glue has been applied (for once)
The contact sensor is not "insulated", but jammed in the 'down' position so as to inform the camera the lens is set to its minimum aperture, whether this is true or false.

Now I understand. It is a mechanical lever held into the position of your liking!

[gryphon1911]

A few from this weekend.  24-70/4S used in these shots.  I have a few more low light shots with the 35/1.8S in still processing.

[Birna Rørslett]

Today's test shooting was with the new fisheye zoom AFS 8-15mm f/3.5-4.5 Nikkor ED-IF on the Z6.

The lens does pretty well. AF is not speedy, but hits the mark every time. These examples were at f/9 800-1600 ISO.

[gryphon1911]

I went into a deep dive into the portraits I took this weekend.   In some of them, I did notice evidence of shutter shock in the images taken around 1/60 to 1/80 shutter speed range.   Nothing that ruined any shots, but it is there.  Seems to have gone away once I hit 1/100.

I think that I will investigate using EFCS in those situations where I know I will be shooting with that shutter speed for any length of time.  Although, since ISO is not really a concern with me on this camera, I might just shoot manual with auto ISO and force the shutter speed to stay above 1/100.

[Birna Rørslett]

I don't doubt shutter vibrations might occur, but so far I haven't encountered any issue in this regard. My shake-prone hands apparently are the minimum factor to determine image technical quality.

[CS]

Nice work, Andrew! 

[golunvolo]

So far I keep EFC on at all times. I´ll turn it off if in need of faster than 1/2000th shutter. There is no benefit to turn it off that I can think of. It uses half of the shutter movement -and so cuts wear in half as well?- and more importantly is faster, quieter and no vibration until the end of the exposure.

    Am I missing something?

[Bent Hjarbo]

After seeing the fantastic night shots with the Z 50mm I wonder if the Z 35mm is equally good at f1.8?

[gryphon1911]

Nice work, Andrew! 

Thanks, much appreciated.

[Birna Rørslett]

After seeing the fantastic night shots with the Z 50mm I wonder if the Z 35mm is equally good at f1.8?

Yes, it is.

[Eddie Draaisma]

So far I keep EFC on at all times. I´ll turn it off if in need of faster than 1/2000th shutter. There is no benefit to turn it off that I can think of. It uses half of the shutter movement -and so cuts wear in half as well?- and more importantly is faster, quieter and no vibration until the end of the exposure.

    Am I missing something?

I don't think so; the 1/2000s EFCS limit protects against the very short shutter speeds where EFCS has a bad influence on background blur. Reason is that in EFCS mode the second mechanical shutter blade moves in a plane in front of the sensor, and the first electronic blade moves in the plane of the sensor. At a very short shutter speed with a small slit this leads to asymmetry issues.