Vintage Gear Surprise, pre AI.

[Eb]

...
Never, never never again! Always ask someone who knows.

Dave Hartman

I'm glad that I did!

[Erik Lund]

I would not trust a Bit to be strong enough unless it is a absolutely top high end maker! And still I would never use it!!!

Even the high end ones can break if the hardening is too brittle at the tip,,, the four tiny flanges are about 0.5mm thick each - That is same thickness as five pieces of paper!

The thing is also that the the shaft of the screwdrivers act as a torque limiter in that it flexes, the long slim shaft twist and that 'helps' the screw loosening slowly.

That is also the reason you need to keep down force high until the screw has come out fully.

Good you have a lot of work behind you on guns!

There is no room for oversize screws on Nikkor lenses! the mount is simply too thin.

On APO Lanthar 125mm there is plenty of room for oversize screws both at the mount but also inside in the critical weak points! So a nice upgrade.

Please order a set online like;

Moody Pollicis #2401 JIS-S #0
Comes usually in a set with #1 and #00 as well

https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=Moody+Pollicis+%232401+JIS-S+%230+

[Eb]

I would not trust a Bit to be strong enough unless it is a absolutely top high end maker! And still I would never use it!!!

Even the high end ones can break if the hardening is too brittle at the tip,,, the four tiny flanges are about 0.5mm thick each - That is same thickness as five pieces of paper!

The thing is also that the the shaft of the screwdrivers act as a torque limiter in that it flexes, the long slim shaft twist and that 'helps' the screw loosening slowly.

That is also the reason you need to keep down force high until the screw has come out fully.

Good you have a lot of work behind you on guns!

There is no room for oversize screws on Nikkor lenses! the mount is simply too thin.

On APO Lanthar 125mm there is plenty of room for oversize screws both at the mount but also inside in the critical weak points! So a nice upgrade.

Please order a set online like;

Moody Pollicis #2401 JIS-S #0
Comes usually in a set with #1 and #00 as well

https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=Moody+Pollicis+%232401+JIS-S+%230+

Thanks, Erik.  I do share misgivings about the bit style screwdriver.  I will keep it because it is the most economical option for a great variety of specialized small screw types.  For the lens, I will certainly order a Moody Pollicis.  I surmise that you prefer the long shaft version!    It may have to be ordered through a source other than Amazon.com.  They are notorious for not exporting many items to Canada, as they like to keep a separation from the Canadian site, presumably so as not to compete - even though the item may not be available on Amazon.ca.

[Eb]

Thanks, everyone for the great helpful advice.  I do realize my lack of experience with lenses and was graciously saved from being a total klutz.  The finalized AI conversion project will have to wait, 'though, until my long shaft Moody Policis set arrives from the States sometime in January.

Incidentally, with regard to the long shaft driver discussion, I also found this advantageous for gunsmithing, the tightening of small screws, scope mounts, etc.  The flex in the longer shaft gives good and safe indication of tightening torque, short of ruining a screw head, or threads.  Of course, for larger screws, a torque driver was also helpful.  The correct tightening of stock mounting screws is indispensable to gun accuracy.  In fact, some target rifle manufacturers publish their torque specifications.  For others, it is trial by error - or just good feel, from experience.

[richardHaw]

I use the longer one for the bayonet screws

https://www.amazon.co.jp/%E3%83%99%E3%83%83%E3%82%BB%E3%83%AB-VESSEL-%E3%83%9E%E3%82%A4%E3%82%AF%E3%83%AD%E3%83%89%E3%83%A9%E3%82%A4%E3%83%90%E3%83%BC-No-9900-0-100/dp/B0016VA0CU/ref=pd_cp_60_2/353-1493724-5359633?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=618GVCGPVRYRPK0B357W

[Eb]

Removing the bayonet is not going so well.  First screw out OK with 2 applications of acetone.  Second screw, I very easily stripped the screw head using the #0.  I could still get a little bite with the #00, but that was quickly gone.  Interesting that this screw head was reamed out going the opposite direction as well, and I had not turned it that way.  Oh well, I'm taking a pause because the screws are very stubborn.

What to do with the screw I ruined?  Should I buy a mini torch and burn off the loctite?  Likely, I will also need to drill and use a screw extractor.  So I will be on the hunt for this SK11 extractor.  Yikes, almost $80 CA on ebay.  Rakuten price is reasonable but will not ship to Canada.  I'm hooped!

[Eb]

The best deal for the SK11 screw extractor I could get on ebay was $47 US or $64 CA.  This set includes 1 - 1.5 - 2 mm.  http://www.ebay.ca/itm/361768639939 I picked up the last one, for now.

[RonVol]

I've lost count of the number of times I've found myself in the same situation.
Thread lockers are basically thermoset plastics, so as others have suggested - acetone or heat are the best way of loosening the bond.

As far as removing the screws; holding the screwdriver by hand is clumsy & awkward with the very real risk of damaging the lens or yourself.
I do the job in a drill press.
First remove the power from the drill in case it accidentally starts.
I use a screwdriver that I have removed the handle from. I then insert the screwdriver's shank into the drill chuck.
Rotating the spindle feed (which lowers the drill chuck/spindle) will force the screwdriver into the screw's head.
Using a leaver inserted into the drill chuck allows a large amount of torque and the spindle feed mechanism allows a large amount of axial force to be applied to the screw's head.
The lens is generally held by hand.
I have never needed heat or acetone to break the thread locking bond nor have I ever broken a screw with this method. I have certainly broken many when trying to do it by hand though.
With this system, it allows you to gently reverse the torque, back & forth, until the bond breaks..............without damaging the screw's head or the screwdriver's tip.

[RonVol]

An interesting point shown on the website of a company that makes liquid threadlockers -

Q3: I cannot get an assembly apart where a threadlocker was used. What solvent will break the threadlocker down?

A: No solvent will wick into the joint to break the threadlocker down. This is either hand tool removable at room temperature or if not, it requires high temperatures of 450-600°F to separate parts. The products are thermoset plastics in the cured state that soften at higher temperatures. Thus, you need to disassemble while at the higher softening point temperature. Do not let this cool down first. Otherwise, it will resoldify. Solvents like methyl ethyl keytone and methylene chloride can be used for clean-up of residue only after disassembly.

[richardHaw]

The best deal for the SK11 screw extractor I could get on ebay was $47 US or $64 CA.  This set includes 1 - 1.5 - 2 mm.  http://www.ebay.ca/itm/361768639939 I picked up the last one, for now.

Hello, I don't think this will work. It's too big (1.5mm) and is made for wood screws.
the 1mm ones do cost a bit (pun intended), I got mine for $10USD for the bit alone.

Why won't they ship to Canada? Can you investigate? If we know the reason then maybe I can get that myself and ship it to you personally.

[David H. Hartman]

A: No solvent will wick into the joint to break the threadlocker down.

I've used acetone and it works. The screws come out fairly easy. It takes time, more time than a professional camera repair person has which is why my friend used a portable butane soldering iron. My friend said MEK will work also but again it takes time. They are not going to wick their way in. If they did they would soften the thread locker quickly.

We are talking here about rather small screws in a situation where the acetone can stand on the head of the screw and around it for several minutes. It is absorbed slowly. It might need to be applied twice as it will evaporate. Larger assemblies where thread lockers are used could not be helped with acetone or MEK. In general the Q&A is correct.

Acetone is a powerful solvent of plastics. MEK can be used to make the adhesive used to activate the adhesive used to attach the leatherette to Nikon cameras from the Nikon F to Nikon F3 and FM/FE family and similar vintage. Reactivating the adhesive is better than reapplying adhesive as this avoids a build up of adhesive giving a professional look to the repair.

Dave

[richardHaw]

i usually let the solvent work on it before dinner and get back to it after I had my meal and jaegermeister
sometimes, I would have it the overnight

Frankly, I never had the screw problem after buying the long-shafted VESSELs. only very rarely do i get a problem like that

[Erik Lund]

Wery sad to hear! Try again! You need downward force!!! And Rons solution is a workaround if your not good with your hands.


Usually there is still enough left for the screwdriver to grip on to,,,

[Bjørn Rørslett]

Also keep in mind such old screws tend to be much harder than the material surrounding them ... so ensure a perfect grip before trying to drill them out.

[Erik Lund]

Only the head should be drilled!!! Leave the threads to grip on too.