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Your Weekly Blog / Re: March 2026
« Last post by Frank Fremerey on March 09, 2026, 15:12:00 »
Oops, thank you Frank, already changed in the original post

The 24 has an outstanding geometrical correction I have not seen in any other Wide Angle Nikkor so far AND it features a very high color fidelity over a huge range of lighting situation and complicated colors like purple, orange and certain greentones, all at the edge of the gamut ability of most recording media. Yet that is a very subjective evaluation mostly based on my extensive use with the D3, D500 and the D850 indoors and outdoors. The D600 is no reference point, because it has color gamut issues of its own.

The D850 is still my reference point in color fidelity when it comes to recording media. I am evaluating the Z9 now and will see if she matches the D850 in this respect ...
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Canon used to make a very good f/4.0 24mm to 105mm zoom lens for their EOS mount.  I am guessing that they will have an R-Series equivalent.

The EOS version was used by many of my Canon shooting friends, who praised this lens for its good all round performance.  It was part of Canon's L Series line up of top tier lenses.

I used the lens you have described, quite extensively. It is, indeed, an all-around excellent work horse of a lens. I have not used it since 2018, however, when I retired from police service, and set aside my Canon gear, for about five years. I reckon that I needed some time to heal, from having used my Canon gear for forensic/evidentiary/crime scene photography. I shifted to Nikon for mostly nature photography, after I retired.
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Your Weekly Blog / Re: March 2026
« Last post by golunvolo on March 09, 2026, 13:54:35 »
A proposition for a student's dance piece. We are right now selecting the images.

  Z9, 70-200 2.8 fl
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Hi everyone, I’m new to photography and currently using a Canon camera. I’m looking for a lens that’s easy to use, sharp, and suitable for both portraits and daily shooting. Do you have any recommendations that offer good image quality without being too difficult for a beginner?

Welcome to the forum! You have chosen a most curious place, in which to ask your question! Not many of us, on this Nikon Gear forum, use both Nikon and Canon cameras. I do use both Canon and Nikon cameras and lenses, though my Canon shooting started with DSLRs, and has not yet moved to the RF system.

I used a Canon EF 100mm f/2.8L Macro IS to photograph many people, though usually for the sad purpose of documenting their injuries, in my role as a forensic/evidentiary/crime scene photographer. For happier occasions, I liked to use the EF 135mm f/2L, because some family members tended to be camera-shy. I did not buy an 85mm lens, which is widely-regarded as a favored portrait focal length, until I had significantly shifted to the Nikon system. My wife was, and still is, a dedicated Nikon shooter, so, after I retired from police service, it made fiscal sense to shift toward using her favored system. She was the mentor who had persuaded me to become serious about photography, so, she had the seniority.

I still use Canon EF as a macro and close-range system, so, if you are a Canon EF shooter, I might be able to answer some questions, though my Canon equipment knowledge is somewhat “frozen in time,” with my Canon cameras being a “team” of a pair, each, of the 7D Mark II, 5Ds R, and 5D Mark IV, plus a 1Ds Mark III. My Speedlites are no newer than the 600EX-RT II, and my lenses date from what was available in 2018. Most of my experience has been with the EF 100mm Macro L, mentioned above, the first version of the EF 24-105L, and, in retirement, I really like the non-L EF 35mm f/2 IS.

I liked the EF 100mm f/2.8L Macro IS enough that I bought a spare, when I had the duty to photograph assault victims. I could do just about everything I need, with just this one, and the EF 35mm f/2 IS. These two have the image quality to “stand up to” the 50MP sensor of the 5Ds R.

For reference, Steve McCurry reportedly used a 105mm lens to photograph the “Afghan Girl.” So, a 100mm to 135mm lens is a valid focal length.

IS = Canon-speak for Image Stabilization.

I am not claiming to be any kind of expert.
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Your Weekly Blog / Re: March 2026
« Last post by golunvolo on March 09, 2026, 13:50:55 »
24mm 1.4G ???

 Oops, thank you Frank, already changed in the original post
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Your Weekly Blog / Re: March 2026
« Last post by kasperbergholt on March 09, 2026, 12:52:46 »
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BTW what the ADL does is (1) apply a slight negative exposure compensation to ensure some highlight info is recorded in high-contrast situations, (2) apply Nikon's D-Lighting tone-mapping algorithm which is kind of similar to single-image HDR. The 2nd step only applies to JPG image and the JPG preview image of the NEF file, but the first steps applies whenever the exposure triangle has at least one automatic component to it. The first point was originally the only difference between ADL and DL, to my knowledge, but this may have changed in 20 years.

However, D-Lighting and Advanced D-Lighting in NX Studio seem to apply different algorithms or at least the results are not that similar to each other, the settings options are different, though both try to solve similar problems. 
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OFF! And use till it pleases me in POST
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Lens Talk / Re: AF-S 28mm f/1.4 E - anyone still uses it on Z?
« Last post by Frank Fremerey on March 09, 2026, 11:41:54 »
Morgähn  ;D Zf & Voigtländer 28mm f/2.0

The whole Viogtländer Series is an act of genious. I really dig the handling (esp on the Zf) and the rendering
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From a YouTube video it was asserted with samples that Active D-Light Off and Low are virtually identical. I don't shoot JPG(s) in camera only NEF so I don't need Active D-Lighting in camera for stills.

It seems Active D-Lighting may be important to video where I shoot basically home videos that won't be post processed.

Thanks for all the replies.

Dave

I find ADL very useful when videographing people moving across locations with completely uncontrolled lighting conditions, it opens up faces against backgrounds that may be brighter in a non-tone-mapped representation. It works quite well for making scene contrast lower yet keeping the subject well defined. I use it typically in NORMAL setting.

In stills I sometimes apply DL of some sort in post-processing, e.g., when photographing trees against the sun in the backgroud it works well and mitigates the excessive contrast in the scene. However, I only use it for specific situations. There are other algorithms and methods for this but sometimes Nikon's algorithm works really well and is the easiest path forward.
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