Nikkor 6mm 2.8 Ai

[Erik Lund]

Yes that is it

[charlie]

Seems like shooting tethered would be ideal for this situation, no?

[Akira]

Looks like it's coming together nicely Erik.
Nice work with the machining.

I guess this is something like what you're hoping to achieve?
The bubble level looks like a good idea.

Ron, thanks for the image to clarify the concept.  This is an exciting project!

[RonVol]

You're most welcome Akira 

Here are some pages from a manual for the AI version from 1977.

[Erik Lund]

Ron thanks for that image again! Really helpful for the details

I should have done a more detailed sketch - but I have gotten a little sloppy over the years 

I looked a little more at the image of the Vertical base and have noted a few things;

It doesn't appear to be a Nikon product,,, look and feel,,,

It appears to have four very thick rods, so it must have a ring behind the lens converting it into four rods from thee sockets, must have been for made for something else. Do you know if it is?
Nikon would never do that, IMHO much better with a single rod above the pentaprism - out of the way like the lens is designed for.

I will also do four feet, looks stable, and mine will be adjustable and spiked as mentioned, so no need to tuck the strap under the leg

Yes - I already have a similar level for the base.

[Akira]

Something like this perhaps? 

A quote from the guy who put this together - "We had to build a heck of a reflex lens assembly [note the other Nikon lenses in the stack] to shrink the 8-perf image circle from the lens to the 3-perf negative area of the RED."

http://img.gawkerassets.com/img/17kmpym252yivjpg/original.jpg

I used relays for my 10 mm f/5.6 OP-Fisheye on the D1 way back in 2000 ... The combination shown is OK as it provides 0.7X, but there is no field lens or fine-tuning of focus. I might use the Repro-Nikkor 85/1 and a reversed 1.4X TC instead. Adding a helicoid for focusing is required in my opinion. Otherwise too much strain is put on the respective lenses.

Apparently the RED guy Ron found might have borrowed (or stolen!) the idea from Bjørn.  I just found this page from Bjørn's classic website.  See the Nikkor lenses combined as relay lens look identical (58mm Noct and 35/2.0):

http://www.naturfotograf.com/D1_fisheye_1,html.htm#top

[Erik Lund]

Yes I know Bjørn did the relay many years ago that's why I asked him to revise it but for the Big Eye - 6mm

I believe your right that he was inspired by that! Looks like it by his choice of lenses, I believe it was a 35mm 1.4 though,,,

This is the 1:1 Sectional view of the Fisheye Nikkor 6mm 2.8 that I use for the construction of the Vertical base.

Nikkor 6mm 2.8 sectional view by Erik Gunst Lund, on Flickr

Cut out to test the foam in the Peli-Storm-case

[Akira]

Erik, the RED guy also used 35/2.0.  See the larger image posted by Ron. 

Your working bench looks exactly like Bjørn's "mobile camera case"! 

[Erik Lund]

I thought Bjørn used a 35mm f/1.4,,, never mind it will be different since it's on a D810 16:9 not a 10mm on DX,,,

On another side note here is the off center Gitzo series 5 with Burzynski, the arm can be extended if needed with a monopod if needed for balance.

_EGL1308 by Erik Gunst Lund, on Flickr

Again sorry for the mess yes it's a bit like Bjørns car boot - Maybe that's why we get along,,, 

I also have a Kessler Stealth video slide,,, but my issue now is mostly the weight of it all,,,

[Akira]

I thought Bjørn used a 35mm f/1.4,,, never mind it will be different since it's on a D810 16:9 not a 10mm on DX,,,

On another side note here is the off center Gitzo series 5 with Burzynski, the arm can be extended if needed with a monopod if needed for balance.

Again sorry for the mess yes it's a bit like Bjørns car boot - Maybe that's why we get along,,, 

I also have a Kessler Stealth video slide,,, but my issue now is mostly the weight of it all,,,

Yeah, that's one reason for you and Bjørns getting along well. 

I'm sure you are already aware, but I would doubt if the top plate of Gitzo Systematic is held to the vertical-mount hub firmly enough to hold the heavy rig you are preparing for.  A safety plate like the one sold at NatureScapes would be necessary.

[RonVol]

Ron thanks for that image again! Really helpful for the details

I should have done a more detailed sketch - but I have gotten a little sloppy over the years 

I looked a little more at the image of the Vertical base and have noted a few things;

It doesn't appear to be a Nikon product,,, look and feel,,,

It appears to have four very thick rods, so it must have a ring behind the lens converting it into four rods from thee sockets, must have been for made for something else. Do you know if it is?
Nikon would never do that, IMHO much better with a single rod above the pentaprism - out of the way like the lens is designed for.

I will also do four feet, looks stable, and mine will be adjustable and spiked as mentioned, so no need to tuck the strap under the leg

Yes - I already have a similar level for the base.

You're welcome Erik.

I agree with you, the 4-post-mount isn't Nikon and must have some kind of backing plate/adapter as you suggest.

Adjustable height, like on a theodolite or optical level, is a very good idea.

[RonVol]

First-World problems encountered while attempting to use a lens with a 220deg angle of view 

From a pre-AI user manual.

[Erik Lund]

Yes thank you for the warning Akira! - I am aware of this 'urban myth'

As a mechanical engineer I feel quite calm with my design, as there will be zero stress on the ring in vertical position when mounted

The only way anyone would have a problem with the Gitzo 'ring' design is if someone fail to tighten the clamp tight enough and walk around with the tripod over their shoulder with a long lens attached,,, then the wobble could lead to the ring working itself out of the clamp.

It is a ø70mm x 10mm long connection, there is no chance this will come apart unless the bolt breaks - Therefore I will reconsider if I should make such a 'safety-ring' since it's better to be safe than sorry!

Ron I will remember to wear a suit and tie 

[Erik Lund]

BTW There is a much easier fix than the 'safety ring'

It is to drill one or two holes and cut threads in the collar and through the ring.

Gitzo safety by Erik Gunst Lund, on Flickr

I already have a screw like this in my Burzynski Ball Head adapter ring - Series 3-4 to Series 5 - so I don't loose the ring,,,

[Jørgen Ramskov]

Can't wait to see the final construction and the pictures you'll get from it. It's wonderful that you keep us updated with your progress.