Nikkor Z 40mm f/2

[David H. Hartman]

Around 1971 to 1974 I bought a set of "real" Nikkor lenses ranging from 24mm to 135mm. I filled a gap in my lens line up as often as I could. The price was $210.00 to $250.00 in the US dollar of the day. Today in 2021 the approximate prices would run from $1,300.00 to $1,600.00 in devalued US dollars.

Dave

[Snoogly]

Can this lens be focused manually? I can’t find much info, but DPReview has ‘Full time manual - No’.

I am not sure what that means. - Does it mean subtle manual adjustment after AF is possible?

[Akira]

Can this lens be focused manually? I can’t find much info, but DPReview has ‘Full time manual - No’.

I am not sure what that means. - Does it mean subtle manual adjustment after AF is possible?

According to Nikon's website, the control ring can be assigned to M/A function from the camera.  You can only override AF by turning the ring to nail the focus.

[Snoogly]

LOL. I think this lens has crashed the Mapcamera web site! Reservations for the lens started four minutes ago, and the site was immediately overwhelmed!

After much struggle I ordered it. ¥28,710.

[Akira]

LOL. I think this lens has crashed the Mapcamera web site! Reservations for the lens started four minutes ago, and the site was immediately overwhelmed!

The optics companies have been rivaling each other for the development of high performance lenses and the market is filled with huge lenses as a result.

Apparently, all Sony, Canon and Nikon are now looking at smaller and lighter lenses that majority or people have really needed.

[David H. Hartman]

You can only override AF by turning the ring to nail the focus.

I think I'm suffering from heat exhaustion. Is AF override a problem? Press the AF-ON button then focus at will.

Dave

Should I put an ice pack on my forehead?

[Akira]

I think I'm suffering from heat exhaustion. Is AF override a problem? Press the AF-ON button then focus at will.

Dave

Should I put an ice pack on my forehead?

Personally, I've never really used AF override function.  Maybe for the focus pull when you shoot movies in AF mode?

You should put an ice pack on the back panel of Canon R5. 

[Snoogly]

Apparently, all Sony, Canon and Nikon are now looking at smaller and lighter lenses that majority or people have really needed.

Not just the size, but also the price. This will be only my second native Z lens, after the 50mm 1.8 S, and I was very happy to see that it costs probably less than a ‘vintage’ Nikkor 40mm pancake.

[Akira]

Not just the size, but also the price. This will be only my second native Z lens, after the 50mm 1.8 S, and I was very happy to see that it costs probably less than a ‘vintage’ Nikkor 40mm pancake.

I prefer using no filter on the lens, and a cheap good lens is a synonym of a peace of mind: you don't need to break a bank, if the lens is damaged.

[Ilkka Nissilä]

Personally, I've never really used AF override function.  Maybe for the focus pull when you shoot movies in AF mode?

Focus peaking is only activated in manual focus mode so the lens has to be switched to M explicitly.  Video is about the only time I use the lens switch. :-) In still photography (using AF-S or Z lenses) I just keep the lens in AF mode and focus manually when needed, and press AF-ON when I need AF. I find the peaking intolerably distracting when making still photos (it's not precise enough for critical focusing and yet it interferes with my ability to see emotion and time shots based on what I see) but for video (where timing is not the issue as all moments are recorded) it is about the only workable solution I've found to focusing. :-)

I would guess that if Nikon now make lenses without A/M focus mode switch, this means they would either have to allow focus peaking in A mode or the A/M is switched from the camera (i menu?). My guess is the latter.

[Akira]

Focus peaking is only activated in manual focus mode so the lens has to be switched to M explicitly.  Video is about the only time I use the lens switch. :-) In still photography (using AF-S or Z lenses) I just keep the lens in AF mode and focus manually when needed, and press AF-ON when I need AF. I find the peaking intolerably distracting when making still photos (it's not precise enough for critical focusing and yet it interferes with my ability to see emotion and time shots based on what I see) but for video (where timing is not the issue as all moments are recorded) it is about the only workable solution I've found to focusing. :-)

I would guess that if Nikon now make lenses without A/M focus mode switch, this means they would either have to allow focus peaking in A mode or the A/M is switched from the camera (i menu?). My guess is the latter.

Ilkka, I totally agree with you about the annoyance of focus peaking in the still mode.  I'm not sure whether A/M mode can be activated/deactivated from the camera.  The description only says that the control ring can be assigned to A/M.

[F2F3F6]

If Nikon goes the "lightweight", "compact" way for it's Z lenses (S line or not) they should look at the Fuji DX or the recent Sigma lenses, good stuff and high quality, even construction is on a high level...

I'm not an "old timer" but construction-wise I find Nikon really disappointing ! The new Z micro Nikkors are a good stuff but 2,8/28E or this 2/40 ?

[David H. Hartman]

I prefer using no filter on the lens, and a cheap good lens is a synonym of a peace of mind: you don't need to break a bank, if the lens is damaged.

One argument in favor of a filter is a filter can be used without a lens cap on the front to protect the lens in a camera bag with dividers or compartments. If a lens hood is also used the lens has quite good protection without using a lens cap.

As to flare and ghost shielding the lens front element has a much greater effect than whether one uses a filter or not. A hood may not give enough protection from just out of frame sunlight. In that case a hand may work, e.g. with a 15/5.6 AI or 24/2.8 AI.

I use Nikon L37c filter for most of my lenses. Twice over the decades a filter has given it's life to save one of my lenses.

I have an AF-D 28-70/3.5-4.5 Nikkor and AF-D 35-105/3.5-4.5 Nikkor which I paid $80.00 to $105.00 (USD) for. I figured that buying a quality Hoya filter costing 1/2 to 2/3 the cost of the lens didn't make a great deal of sense so I bought a second copy of each and keep the backups with my DX body. With these lenses I use a Nikon NH-3 hood, no filter and in a clean camera bag with dividers I normally do not use a lens cap. I quick clean the filters with a T-shirt. I've only replaced an L37c when, Oops! I smashed it, Never for scratches.

If I should buy a Nikkor Z 40/2.0 I might not use a filter and would use a lens hood. The plastic bayonet gags me. 

Dave

[Snoogly]

There doesn’t seem to be an official hood, but maybe one will surface soon.

[Roland Vink]

Since the 40/2 has a 52mm filter thread, the HN-3 metal screw-in hood for AIS 35/2 should do. Due to the slightly longer focal length and relatively small front element of the 40mm lens, the hoods for AIS 50/1.8 and 50/1.4 will probably work also, but these are mostly snap-on or rubber hoods which I don't like so much.