NikonGear'23
Gear Talk => Lens Talk => Topic started by: richardHaw on September 14, 2021, 09:57:56
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(https://nikonrumors.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/09/Nikon-Nikkor-Z-40mm-f2-lens-for-Nikon-Z-mount-lens-design.png)
it's here :o :o :o
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Light, but not an S lens. https://photographylife.com/news/nikon-z-40mm-f-2-announcement
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This is a lens that tempts me toward the Z system. My 35mm f/2D is one of my favorites and this new 40mm also has a nice low MFD. And it has low element count + Nikon even talks 3D in the promo materials!
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Awesome, might be my first Zee lens as I like small 40mmish f/2 lenses like the Carl Zeiss 2/45 Planar Contax G and Leica Summicron-C 2/40 discussed here:
https://nikongear.net/revival/index.php?topic=711.0
Also like its a simple design so the images should not be too over corrected and have some character to play with, boke looks butter smooth in the sample images which is of course a must.
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Plastic mount :(
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... and very light weight.
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Plastic mount :(
Plastic, fantastic. :D
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Once mounted leave it on ;D
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Once mounted leave it on ;D
Superglue it ;D
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The plastic may be "brittle" after 50 years?
May depend on which type of plastic......but we should probably not expect theses lenses to be working in +100 years.
I have working lenses that are +100 years old......but I did not get them from new.
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Optically very different from the Voigtländer 2/40 Ultron SL/SLII (Planar / double Gauss) or the Nikon 2,8/45 P or GN (Tessars)...
Why not a metal mount ? To cut costs ? Should'nt cost much more...
Next compact pancake after 2/40 and 2,8/28 ? A little tele/portrait lens (a new 2,5/105 or 2,8/100 E in Z mount ?)
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At the rate Chinese manufacturers are building new stuff of acceptable quality, it should not surprise me if a metal aftermarket mount doesn't show up sooner or later.
Yes a new 105mm f/2.5 would be exciting. Sadly don't see it on the Z lens roadmap just yet. Lets hope!
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Why not a metal mount ? To cut costs ? Should'nt cost much more...
Next compact pancake after 2/40 and 2,8/28 ? A little tele/portrait lens (a new 2,5/105 or 2,8/100 E in Z mount ?)
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The plastic may be "brittle" after 50 years?
May depend on which type of plastic......but we should probably not expect theses lenses to be working in +100 years.
I have working lenses that are +100 years old......but I did not get them from new.
Not sure I'll be any less brittle after 50 more years. I'll be lucky with 30 more. I certainly won't make 100 more.
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Once mounted leave it on ;D
Maybe I can live with that. :o
Superglue it ;D
Recently, I prefer UV cure resin, for the weather seal around the mount. :D
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Optically very different from the Voigtländer 2/40 Ultron SL/SLII (Planar / double Gauss) or the Nikon 2,8/45 P or GN (Tessars)...
The back focus is significantly shorter than the focal length on the Z mount. Also, it would be safe to assume that the correction for distortion and chromatic aberration is taken care of the software, which should enable a simpler design.
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Around 1971 to 1974 I bought a set of "real" Nikkor lenses ranging from 24mm to 135mm. I filled a gap in my lens line up as often as I could. The price was $210.00 to $250.00 in the US dollar of the day. Today in 2021 the approximate prices would run from $1,300.00 to $1,600.00 in devalued US dollars.
Dave
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Can this lens be focused manually? I can’t find much info, but DPReview has ‘Full time manual - No’.
I am not sure what that means. - Does it mean subtle manual adjustment after AF is possible?
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Can this lens be focused manually? I can’t find much info, but DPReview has ‘Full time manual - No’.
I am not sure what that means. - Does it mean subtle manual adjustment after AF is possible?
According to Nikon's website, the control ring can be assigned to M/A function from the camera. You can only override AF by turning the ring to nail the focus.
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LOL. I think this lens has crashed the Mapcamera web site! Reservations for the lens started four minutes ago, and the site was immediately overwhelmed!
After much struggle I ordered it. ¥28,710.
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LOL. I think this lens has crashed the Mapcamera web site! Reservations for the lens started four minutes ago, and the site was immediately overwhelmed!
The optics companies have been rivaling each other for the development of high performance lenses and the market is filled with huge lenses as a result.
Apparently, all Sony, Canon and Nikon are now looking at smaller and lighter lenses that majority or people have really needed.
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You can only override AF by turning the ring to nail the focus.
I think I'm suffering from heat exhaustion. Is AF override a problem? Press the AF-ON button then focus at will.
Dave
Should I put an ice pack on my forehead?
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I think I'm suffering from heat exhaustion. Is AF override a problem? Press the AF-ON button then focus at will.
Dave
Should I put an ice pack on my forehead?
Personally, I've never really used AF override function. Maybe for the focus pull when you shoot movies in AF mode?
You should put an ice pack on the back panel of Canon R5. :D
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Apparently, all Sony, Canon and Nikon are now looking at smaller and lighter lenses that majority or people have really needed.
Not just the size, but also the price. This will be only my second native Z lens, after the 50mm 1.8 S, and I was very happy to see that it costs probably less than a ‘vintage’ Nikkor 40mm pancake.
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Not just the size, but also the price. This will be only my second native Z lens, after the 50mm 1.8 S, and I was very happy to see that it costs probably less than a ‘vintage’ Nikkor 40mm pancake.
I prefer using no filter on the lens, and a cheap good lens is a synonym of a peace of mind: you don't need to break a bank, if the lens is damaged.
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Personally, I've never really used AF override function. Maybe for the focus pull when you shoot movies in AF mode?
Focus peaking is only activated in manual focus mode so the lens has to be switched to M explicitly. Video is about the only time I use the lens switch. :-) In still photography (using AF-S or Z lenses) I just keep the lens in AF mode and focus manually when needed, and press AF-ON when I need AF. I find the peaking intolerably distracting when making still photos (it's not precise enough for critical focusing and yet it interferes with my ability to see emotion and time shots based on what I see) but for video (where timing is not the issue as all moments are recorded) it is about the only workable solution I've found to focusing. :-)
I would guess that if Nikon now make lenses without A/M focus mode switch, this means they would either have to allow focus peaking in A mode or the A/M is switched from the camera (i menu?). My guess is the latter.
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Focus peaking is only activated in manual focus mode so the lens has to be switched to M explicitly. Video is about the only time I use the lens switch. :-) In still photography (using AF-S or Z lenses) I just keep the lens in AF mode and focus manually when needed, and press AF-ON when I need AF. I find the peaking intolerably distracting when making still photos (it's not precise enough for critical focusing and yet it interferes with my ability to see emotion and time shots based on what I see) but for video (where timing is not the issue as all moments are recorded) it is about the only workable solution I've found to focusing. :-)
I would guess that if Nikon now make lenses without A/M focus mode switch, this means they would either have to allow focus peaking in A mode or the A/M is switched from the camera (i menu?). My guess is the latter.
Ilkka, I totally agree with you about the annoyance of focus peaking in the still mode. I'm not sure whether A/M mode can be activated/deactivated from the camera. The description only says that the control ring can be assigned to A/M.
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If Nikon goes the "lightweight", "compact" way for it's Z lenses (S line or not) they should look at the Fuji DX or the recent Sigma lenses, good stuff and high quality, even construction is on a high level...
I'm not an "old timer" but construction-wise I find Nikon really disappointing ! The new Z micro Nikkors are a good stuff but 2,8/28E or this 2/40 ?
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I prefer using no filter on the lens, and a cheap good lens is a synonym of a peace of mind: you don't need to break a bank, if the lens is damaged.
One argument in favor of a filter is a filter can be used without a lens cap on the front to protect the lens in a camera bag with dividers or compartments. If a lens hood is also used the lens has quite good protection without using a lens cap.
As to flare and ghost shielding the lens front element has a much greater effect than whether one uses a filter or not. A hood may not give enough protection from just out of frame sunlight. In that case a hand may work, e.g. with a 15/5.6 AI or 24/2.8 AI.
I use Nikon L37c filter for most of my lenses. Twice over the decades a filter has given it's life to save one of my lenses.
I have an AF-D 28-70/3.5-4.5 Nikkor and AF-D 35-105/3.5-4.5 Nikkor which I paid $80.00 to $105.00 (USD) for. I figured that buying a quality Hoya filter costing 1/2 to 2/3 the cost of the lens didn't make a great deal of sense so I bought a second copy of each and keep the backups with my DX body. With these lenses I use a Nikon NH-3 hood, no filter and in a clean camera bag with dividers I normally do not use a lens cap. I quick clean the filters with a T-shirt. I've only replaced an L37c when, Oops! I smashed it, Never for scratches.
If I should buy a Nikkor Z 40/2.0 I might not use a filter and would use a lens hood. The plastic bayonet gags me. :o
Dave
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There doesn’t seem to be an official hood, but maybe one will surface soon.
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Since the 40/2 has a 52mm filter thread, the HN-3 metal screw-in hood for AIS 35/2 should do. Due to the slightly longer focal length and relatively small front element of the 40mm lens, the hoods for AIS 50/1.8 and 50/1.4 will probably work also, but these are mostly snap-on or rubber hoods which I don't like so much.
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There doesn’t seem to be an official hood, but maybe one will surface soon.
If the filter size if 52mm I'd put a Nikon HN-3 hood on it and if a cap is desired a Tupperware #G tumbler cap works. That cap was once recommended by the Nikon school for many Nikon lens hoods of the '70s and '80s. :)
Dave
Oops! Roland beat me for this advice.
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I like the screw in HN-3 hood. The HS-XX hoods with the single plastic slider work quite well. Back in the day he hoods with two chrome buttons always popped off and the hood would roll down the sidewalk when an attractive woman was near by. These days the don't bother.
Dave
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There doesn’t seem to be an official hood, but maybe one will surface soon.
Keep an eye on the JJC website, I'm sure they will produce one sooner than later. I have the JJC ones for the 16-50 and the 50-250, both are very good and a fraction of the cost of the OEM ones.
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On the subject of Z hoods, is there a really good reason why the hood for the 50mm 1.8 S is petal shaped?
I hate the reversible plastic hoods with a passion, and try to replace them with a screw-in metal one when I can. Plenty of alternative round hoods available for the 50mm lens, but will there be any disadvantage to not being petal?
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...but will there be any disadvantage to not being petal?
The petal hoods keep more stray light out of the lens. They will keep light from entering the lens that will not be a part of the image. Off the top of my head the shorter the lens the more important the petal design becomes. Also the more prone to internal flare the lens is the more important the petal design is. Am I right here or am I talking trash?
I'm going to boldly say, "Screw the petal hood on a 50mm lens!" 8)
Dave
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I hate the reversible plastic hoods with a passion...
If it helps maybe don't reverse the reversible hoods. I don't reverse the hoods on my AF-S G Nikkors. :)
Dave
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I like the plastic bayonet hoods and use them as added protection when the lens is in the bag. Sometimes the velcro-attached compartment walls fail and it's good to have extra bounce surface. So yes, I reverse the hoods systematically and with a purpose in mind. I dislike screw-on hoods as I always feel one of these days I will break the threads. I only have two such hoods, for lenses that are pretty ancient. ;-)
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Seems the new lens started shipping! I was notified last night (B&H) to receive my sample tomorrow.
Will be interesting to compare to the Z 50mm and 35mm lenses.
Well, it's not "my" lens it's for my son's Z50 ;D
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The usual unpacking
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Received my copy yesterday and did some quick tests and sharpness wise it seems to behave like my trusted 50/1.2 Ai-S with comparable softness at f2 and sharpness at f4 and above.
Boke seems ultra smooth wideopen which is my main interest but need some more testing for the final verdict. If the character of the lens suits my needs the lack of blistering sharpness wide open isn’t a showstopper similar to my beloved manual focus 50 and 85 f/1.2 lenses.
Here’s a size comparison with the adapted 50/1.2 and Voigtlander 15/4.5FE on the Z6 with RRS plate. The 15 and 40mm combo makes for a very compact travel or hiking combo.
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Looks like a very compact solution.Very tempting to try it out ;)
Did anyone test out the [IR] infrared capability?
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So far I am liking the little forty a lot as it definitely has tons of character with awesome boke and decent sharpness wideopen.
The only caveat is that I’ve traded in the optically perfect but boring Sony Zeiss 35/1.4 and already have character lenses like the 50/1.2 Ai-S and Canon 85/1.2 FD, so one side I am stoked to have a character lens in such a small package with native auto focus but I also mis an optical perfect lens below the CV125 for the times I need that distortion free clean look for a more balanced spread in types of image rendering. But maybe I am just finding excuses to buy one of the S primes haha.
The lens can hold its own for sure but would also be nice pocketable creative sidekick to the clean zoom lenses or S primes.
Here’s some quick snapshots from the garden with only minor tweaks in Affinity on the iPad, all images are at f/2 and uncropped except for the fly crop which is done at 100% to satisfy the pixel peepers :)
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Sharpness and Bokeh is obviously there! Very nice ;)