NikonGear'23
Gear Talk => Camera Talk => Topic started by: RobOK on December 10, 2016, 17:22:28
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I'm an enthusiast photographer, mostly travel, event, and portraits going on in my life. I started my enthusiasm with photography with Nikon D70, D300, and for the past four years full frame Nikon Df. All of which I have totally loved and I continue to use the Df. I use Manual mode to set Aperture and Shutter and mostly in Auto ISO, so manual settings with automatic exposure adjusted with Exp Comp. The only time the Df lets me down is in very low light focusing situations (which is ironic as the sensor is great in that scenario). And sometimes the full frame kit is too much to carry and too "in your face" for my social situations.
In parallel, I have used a Sony NEX-7 as a smaller travel setup and have been mostly happy but the NEX-7 body is showing its age, both in capabilities and wear and tear. Since I have some Sony E lens a natural progression from NEX-7 is the A6300 or new A6500. Two problems, I don't get as "excited" using the Sony and for me the experience of photography is a big part of it. Second, after the NEX-7, in the APS-C range Sony stopped having two control knobs forcing menu mode for one of the two main controls. (This is same for Nikon D5500 which my daughter has and I have available).
So now I am thinking Fuji as my smaller kit. I have been attracted to Fuji X-T2 for a while and I think some members here have posted favorably. The Fuji kit would be bigger than Sony and for this setup, travel size/weight/bulk is a key factor.
Here is a size comparison for cameras in the discussion: http://camerasize.com/compact/#691.445,679.359,580.111,495.331,ha,t
I'm not in any particular hurry, so I am considering different options. If I stopped with Sony I would sell and/or give away to family.
I realize a rambling post, I'm open to random thoughts in return. Any input from Fuji users as how "portable" of a kit it ends up being? With either Sony or Fuji I would have a small camera bag, so from that sense they are close.
Thanks,
Rob.
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Hi Rob !
I have got similar feelings as I own the Df (with a fair amount of ''F'' mount lenses) and I bought a sony NEX5 R few years ago as I needed a non vibrating shutter to take macro shots.
Finally, the interface is so complicated (too many menus) is a nightmare to find the settings you need (while I admit is a very good camera). I gave it to my partner and use it now occasionally (with old M42 lenses).
So, fuji came in mind. I thought about a X-pro 1 as the price went down after the launch of the new X-pro 2.
In between, I saw the Olympus OMD range with one with the feature of possible focus staking. (OMD em5 markII)
The main difficulty, is the vast choice of cameras ! :P
I am not yet decided... ;)
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On a general note, the handling of the camera and the manner in which it interfaces with your shooting habits are decisive factors in the longer run. Thus, whatever you narrow your choices to, do yourself a big favour and try out the gear in a nearby shop.
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Thus, whatever you narrow your choices to, do yourself a big favour and try out the gear in a nearby shop.
For sure ! That is what I'll firmly do.
BTW, a Nikon gear get together is a fantastic way to try different gear. ;)
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On a general note, the handling of the camera and the manner in which it interfaces with your shooting habits are decisive factors in the longer run. Thus, whatever you narrow your choices to, do yourself a big favour and try out the gear in a nearby shop.
I agree completely which is why I am skeptical of the Sony and why i mentioned my shooting style. I like knobs!
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The Sony A6x00 cameras only have one wheel on the top rear and one dial at the rear of the camera, which is too few, in my opinion. The full frame A7 series have a dial at the rear and a dedicated EV comp whell and a main and sub command dial, actotal of four, which gives a very satisfactory experience. The wheels and dials are programmable. The number of wheels available make the Sony A7 full frame series much better cameras than the A6x00 cameras. Thus, if you go for Sony, you should go full frame. I use Sony full frame A7 and A7 II, and I'm very happy with my choice. The presense of more wheels and buttons make all the difference to the APS-C cameras. The Sony APS-C bodies are not much smaller than the full frame A7 series of cameras, with the biggest difference being the film SLR like lump for the viewfinder.
There are several programmable buttons and some lenses have a focus hold button that can be programmed for other purposes. The Fn button gives access to a quick menu that is also customizable.
In general the Sony user interface is customizable and computer oriented. If you're old school, Fujifilm may be a better choice with its very analogue user interface, somewhat resembling a manual focus film SLR.
The downside to Fujifilm is the absense of IBIS, in body stabilization. The Sony A6500 as well as A7II, A7RII have got IBIS.
Native AF lenses
The selection of native lenses for full frame range from 16mm to 300mm, with 16-35mm (10mm rectilinear MF wide angle) to a 70-300mm telezoom at each end. If you require supertele lenses, you need to use adapted lenses. (Since you have Nikon, stay with Nikon for supertele lenses.) The lens selection for full frame is better than for APS-C, and the lens programme for full frame is much better thought out. Sony's lenses range from the 16-35/4 to the 70-300mm tele zoom and Sony, Zeiss and Samyang AF primes from 14/2.8 to 90/2.8 macro.
Native MF lenses
If you're into manual focus, Zeiss and Voigtländer offer some nice full frame option with electronic integration, Voigtländer 10/5.6, 12/5.6, 15/4.5 (all three are rectilinear WAs) and Zeiss 21/2.8, 35/2, 50/2, 85/2.4. Cosina has announced the Voigtländer 65mm f/2 Macro Apo Lanthar as well. The MF lenses come with old school mechanical aperture and focus rings, and EXIF as well as aperture settings are communicated, much like chipped Nikon MF lenses.
Adapted lenses
Canon EF and Sony A mount (DSLR) lenses can be adapted to Sony E mount with full AF, EXIF and exposure automation. Nikon lenses can be used with mechanical adapters. I advice against trying any smart adapters for Nikon lenses at this point, due to reports of these cheap (Chinese) adapters destroying Sony cameras. Only Metabones IV T for Canon EF lenses and Sigma MC-11 for Canon mount lenses should be used, if a smart adapter is required. For Fujifilm there are no smart adapters.
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If you like the control philosophy of the Df, then the Fuji XT cameras make a lot of sense.
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I would by far rate image quality and variety of available lenses much higher.
The Df is extremely capable of low light AF, don't see how you should be able to buy something better - I would advise to keep the Df and add some compact low light lenses.
Personally I shoot Leica M9 if I need to be discrete,,, not easy in my size btw, discrete,,, The Leica SL is another option,,, Yes I know they are expensive but you didn't mention price level but that is what I would consider if you want better focus in extreme low light than the Df.
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Leica M9 is nice and the viewfinder works well. Focusing is precise as well, if well calibrated.
There are also quite a few used lens options for the Leica M mount and lenses from Voigtländer and Zeiss to choose from as well, so it doesn't have to be horribly expensive to start a fresh M system. A Leica 50/2 is for all practical purposes as small as it gets and it's full frame.
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Thanks for your thoughts Erik!
I would by far rate image quality and variety of available lenses much higher.
Agree, maybe some of my frustration is the Sony lenses for APS-C. Everyone raves about the Fuji glass and I am probably getting caught up in the internet buzz a bit about the Fuji.
The Df is extremely capable of low light AF, don't see how you should be able to buy something better - I would advise to keep the Df and add some compact low light lenses.
I was coming off of a social event that was granted in a pretty dark room, so probably since I think so much of the Df, my expectations were too high. I had two lenses, the 58mm f/1.4 and the 24-120 f/4. It was a fast moving event and I have not looked back closely at my settings but I had a lot of focus hunting. I'm sure I'm not the best at this, but this is not the first time and I know others have had the Df hunt on focus.
My impression is the Leica is a bit beyond my financial range, but in fairness have not investigated... yet!
Any other Fuji shooters out there to chime in? (I have read the other couple threads)
Thanks all,
Rob.
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You just need to put on a 28-70mm 2.8 AFS or 24-70mm 2.8 AFS - You will be blown away by the AF speed! I promise.
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Hi Rob !
I have got similar feelings as I own the Df (with a fair amount of ''F'' mount lenses) and I bought a sony NEX5 R few years ago as I needed a non vibrating shutter to take macro shots.
Finally, the interface is so complicated (too many menus) is a nightmare to find the settings you need (while I admit is a very good camera). I gave it to my partner and use it now occasionally (with old M42 lenses).
So, fuji came in mind. I thought about a X-pro 1 as the price went down after the launch of the new X-pro 2.
In between, I saw the Olympus OMD range with one with the feature of possible focus staking. (OMD em5 markII)
The main difficulty, is the vast choice of cameras ! :P
I am not yet decided... ;)
So what cameras are you looking at.... I would be curious to hear!
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Thanks for your thoughts Erik!
Agree, maybe some of my frustration is the Sony lenses for APS-C. Everyone raves about the Fuji glass and I am probably getting caught up in the internet buzz a bit about the ...
My impression is the Leica is a bit beyond my financial range, but in fairness have not investigated... yet!
Thanks all,
Rob.
As I said anout Sony, if you go that route, you have to go full frame to get good lenses and a sensible selection of focal lengths.
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So what cameras are you looking at.... I would be curious to hear!
I'll probably go for Fuji as they are attractive prices in the second hand market.
Olympus is tempting but as Pluton pointed out, Fuji is closer to Df and I am suspicious about the Olly'small sensor' size ( but it can be a figment of my imagination... :D).
I any case I want to take my time to choose and handle some cams first. ;)
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As I said anout Sony, if you go that route, you have to go full frame to get good lenses and a sensible selection of focal lengths.
The Sony FF is tempting, but then their lens sizes bring you back to full DSLR size (or at least up to Df size). Sony is just not showing the love for the E mount lenses (i think we agree). If I was totally dropping DSLR, I would strongly consider Sony FF, but as a more nimble secondary/travel kit the Sony FE is too big and heavy (with lenses).
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You just need to put on a 28-70mm 2.8 AFS or 24-70mm 2.8 AFS - You will be blown away by the AF speed! I promise.
I was suspecting my lens selection was playing a part which is why I listed which ones I had. I got the 24-120 f4 as a compromise, but maybe too much of a compromise in the AF department! I don't know if a 24-70 is in my future or not, maybe used.
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BTW, sorry for mixing two topics in one thread --- one is moving to an alternate kit, and the side topic is Df low light AF. Both of interest to me!!
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In APS-C I would go for Fuji. Their lenses are fantastic. I especially liked the X-T1 with the 16,23, 35, and 56mm prime lenses. These are clearly targeted to photographers and do have some smart features. For macro the 60mm is incredibly sharp, but painfully slow (the Zeiss 50mm is a better option). I added the X100T to have a one camera- one lens solution. My main issue with the X100T was that I could not comfortably hold it. Camera-size is fine but lens was too small for me (I like to use my left hand to support/hold the lens). The 23mm Fuji lens worked better for me. I also looked at Sony but the Fuji is - in my opinion - more a photographer's tool that is fun to use. Esp. the X-T1 with its dials for ISO, shutter speed and Aperture. But also the implementation of the priority functions. Nevertheless, last year september I decided to sell my entire Fuji set. I did not like the slow AF (much improved in the X-T2) and I had to constantly correct colours in LR when I processed raw files. Jpegs were fine (in fact, I only used jpeg with my X100T). Another thing I missed was the intangible "3D pop" and the clarity of full frame sensors with bigger pixels. Therefore I switched to the D750, although I also considered the Df.
In your case, I may consider sticking to the Df with some light(er) lenses. It's the weight of the lenses that make the difference, not the camera. Just take an X-T1/X-T2 (with the 16-55, 50-140, and 100-400 lenses with you. Your back won't like it. I decided to opt for the D750 with light(er)weight lenses: 24mm 1.8G, 58mm, 70-200 f4, and 300mm PF f4. The only exception is my 35mm lens: a sigma art 1.4. But I am about to add a lightweight nikon alternative for travel.
More recently, I thought about adding a lightweight alternative, including the X-T2 (or x-pro2) but concluded that the D750 with 3 lightweight f1.8/4 lenses works equally well.
There are two mirrorless cameras that Iremain interested in (besides the upcoming medium-format Fuji): the Leica Q and Sony RX1 (ii). Excellent size and wonderful output. IMHO, a fullframe mirrorless camera does not make a lot of sense if you add fast lenses (or converters) because it won't save you noticeable weight. I also thought about the Df but the D750 is about the same size and weight. Maybe the Df successor will convince me. So for now, my travel camera is the D750.
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In your case, I may consider sticking to the Df with some light(er) lenses. It's the weight of the lenses that make the difference, not the camera. Just take an X-T1/X-T2 (with the 16-55, 50-140, and 100-400 lenses with you. Your back won't like it. I decided to opt for the D750 with light(er)weight lenses: 24mm 1.8G, 58mm, 70-200 f4, and 300mm PF f4. The only exception is my 35mm lens: a sigma art 1.4. But I am about to add a lightweight nikon alternative for travel.
More recently, I thought about adding a lightweight alternative, including the X-T2 (or x-pro2) but concluded that the D750 with 3 lightweight f1.8/4 lenses works equally well.
Peter, thanks for your thoughts... I do love the Df, but sometimes it is just too big... but you are right, going with a couple small primes makes it much smaller package overall compared to the 24-120 f4.
I think if size is an important factor in a second kit, Fuji might not help that much.
As a practical matter, neither the A6500 or Fuji X-T2 are in stock anywhere!!!
Rob.
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Rob, I used to use Sony NEX-5N/R/T for their compactness. However, the earlier E mount lenses (especially the silver ones) dedicated for APS-C size was not all that good in terms of image quality. The black lenses like 10-18 zoom, 20/2.8 or 35/1.8 are pretty decent. But the newer lenses tend to be quite big.
The compactness of mirrorless camera systems have been promoted as one of their strongest advantages over DSLRs, but both the bodies as well as lenses are becoming larger and larger.
Of course, they are still smaller than the full-frame DSLRs you already own, but adapting smaller lenses on Nikon would noticeably reduce the bulk and weight.
I consider my D750 and AF-S 50/1.8G combo fairly compact and lightweight, and Ai-P 45/2.8 makes the combo even more handy. Since I had purchased 45P a few weeks ago, it has been virtually glued on my D750. The combo is very comfortable to carry around hanging from my shoulder, as the lens doesn't hit my arm when I walk. :)
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I've just been traveling to Kyoto. I had been 'relegated' to D800E as my son took my Df.
My daughter however carried the D5200 with AFS 24-85 non VR which has turned out to be a very nice light and capable travel kit. The D5200 is lighter than the XT2 and far faster and more instant than the Sony A series (maybe not Af but instant on, instant capture of moment). The sensor is good and it just works well.
If you have a few AFS lenses, don't discount the D3XXX and D5XXX series as very fast light and functional APS-C cameras....
JJ
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The Nikon and Canon APS-C/DX DSLRs also suffer from a limited choice of crop primes at the wide end, just like Sony APS-C mirrorless. The only smaller than 35mm format systems that will give you fairly good selection of primes is m43 and the Fujifilm X system. Those are what I would look, if I wanted something to compliment a 35mm format DSLR system. Even Leica M can be considered, if you get a used M9 and go for Voigtländer lenses, and you're OK with manual focusing.
The viewfinders of crop DSLRs are smaller than the EVFs of m43/APS-C mirrorless cameras.
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Another consideration to use a mirrorless camera is the battery.
When I used NEX-5 series, I always needed at least one second battery. FW-50 is fairly large, but the camera is rewally power hungry. When I went to Germany for an assignment which included taking many picutures of all-day events for three days, I took two NEX-5R bodies, three batteries and one charger. The remaining power of all three batteries after each day's shooting was around 30%. It took around three hours to full-charge one battery, which meant that I had to wake up after three hours to replace the fully charged battery with the next one. Oh yes, I should have brought USB power adapters to charge a battery in the body, but the adapters needed to be purchased separately.
I needed at least a second battery for all other mirrorless cameras I have used over the years: Panasonic G1, GH2, GX8, Sony NEX-5N/R/T. Olympus E-M5 MkII.
On the other hand, I've never been in need of another battery for all of DSLRs I have used: Nikon D2H, D7000 (twice), D610, D750 (which I currently use) and Canon 5D MkIII.
Hope this would be of some food for thoughts.
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The original poster, RobOK, asks for an alternative, to compliment his Nikon setup.
M43 can compliment a Nikon setup. A setup with Oly 12/2, PanaLeica 25/1.4 and the Oly 45/1.8 will give you three small and fast lenses, that will work in most situations. These lenses are small enough, that they will work in social settings as well, without intimidating the subjects. The only way to get similarly small lenses in the "full frame" world is a Leica M rangefinder setup. Both Olympus offer cameras with IBIS, which is a very useful feature. The Oly 12/2 has a 46mm filter thread compared to a 72mm filter thread for the Nikon 24/1.8, this is a clear difference in a social setting. A "full frame" Leica Summicron-M 28/2 also has a 46mm filter thread, helping to make Leica a "discrete" camera.
Battery life is easily taken care of by bringing an extra battery, or two. Mirrorless cameras will typically give 250-350 shots per battery charge according to CIPA standard.
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Rob also mentioned the travel as one of the occasions to use cameras. When you are traveling, sometimes you may not have enough time to charge batteries. Spare batteries helps only when you can have time to recharge them.
When you travel today, you are very likely to carry gadgets that need to charge: a smartphone, a tablet or a laptop. If a camera need less care about the battery, that will help.
Big lenses intimidates people for sure, that's why I mentioned smaller lenses to adapt. I used the very AF-S 24/1.8G for an alumni party, and some of my friends were intimidated. An Ais 24/2.8 would be handy, and the "green dot" focus confirmation will help.
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I've travelled with mirrorless, and batteries and charging hasn't been an issue. Sometimes the weight and size of a DSLR with lenses were issues when travelling. The discretion of a mirrorless with a silent shutter is also nice in social settings. Hence also the Leica M with its' quiet shutter.
The Leica M system is nice for travel too, but you have to live with 90mm/135mm as a limit depending on which you're able to focus with an rf viewfinder.
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I'm loving all the discussions... it has made me step back and consider what I am after more. The points about social situations IS a factor for me. Sometimes having the Df and the 24-120 f4 zoom feels "too big" for the room.
bjornthun, For some reason I have a mental block with m43, not for any particular reason.
For now, I bought some rubber cement (contact cement) and I am going to fix the grips on both my Df and my Sony NEX-7 this weekend. I'm going to keep working the Sony as my smaller kit, the key question there is whether the E lenses are worth continuing forward with (and then getting a newer Sony body).
I'm going to take out my primes more on the Df. I went to an event last night (kid's concert) and went with my Df and 58mm which was a mistake, I needed a zoom in that case. Oh well. I also have access to my daughters D5500, so i'll use that as another smaller kit. I am contemplating a smaller nikon lens, either the 45P or the Voightlander 40.
For now, no Fuji.
All really good discussions!
Rob.
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For now, I bought some rubber cement (contact cement) and I am going to fix the grips on both my Df and my Sony NEX-7 this weekend.
The cement used on Nikons at least through the F3HP, FM3a and others of this build style was PLIOBOND a kind of contact cement that can be removed without damage to the camera or leatherette used before the use of self stick rubber as on the F4 and later.
I strongly recommend against using a common contact cement that dries hard. It's not friendly to future repairs. PLIOBOND remains pliable of decades of has a firm grip. You'll net to clean off the residue, if any from the stick on rubber coverings on both the camera and the rubber.
These days it's probably better to replace the rubber coverings with genuine replacement parts.
Best,
Dave Hartman
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The cement used on Nikons at least through the F3HP, FM3a and others of this build style was PLIOBOND a kind of contact cement that can be removed without damage to the camera or leatherette used before the use of self stick rubber as on the F4 and later.
I strongly recommend against using a common contact cement that dries hard. It's not friendly to future repairs. PLIOBOND remains pliable of decades of has a firm grip. You'll net to clean off the residue, if any from the stick on rubber coverings on both the camera and the rubber.
These days it's probably better to replace the rubber coverings with genuine replacement parts.
Best,
Dave Hartman
Thanks Dave, I had not heard of that. I was using guidance from this thread: http://nikongear.net/revival/index.php/topic,818.msg17331.html#msg17331
If the rubber grip seems fine, but is just coming off, do you see any need to replace it vs. just re-gluing it?
Thanks,
Rob.
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I'm loving all the discussions... it has made me step back and consider what I am after more. The points about social situations IS a factor for me. Sometimes having the Df and the 24-120 f4 zoom feels "too big" for the room.
bjornthun, For some reason I have a mental block with m43, not for any particular reason.
For now, I bought some rubber cement (contact cement) and I am going to fix the grips on both my Df and my Sony NEX-7 this weekend. I'm going to keep working the Sony as my smaller kit, the key question there is whether the E lenses are worth continuing forward with (and then getting a newer Sony body).
I'm going to take out my primes more on the Df. I went to an event last night (kid's concert) and went with my Df and 58mm which was a mistake, I needed a zoom in that case. Oh well. I also have access to my daughters D5500, so i'll use that as another smaller kit. I am contemplating a smaller nikon lens, either the 45P or the Voightlander 40.
For now, no Fuji.
All really good discussions!
Rob.
Which Sony E lenses do you have?
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The Df is extremely capable of low light AF, don't see how you should be able to buy something better - I would advise to keep the Df and add some compact low light lenses.
I agree that the AF of the DF is still very adequate even under low light conditions, on condition you then only use the center AF point.
Despite having a.o. f1.4 AFS lenses, I personally prefer to revert to manual focusing under bad light, using the central AF point and the green AF point confirmation point in the viewfinder, as usually under bad light, the contrast gets too low to depend on the AF.
Actually a lot more comfortable then using the K type viewing screen in my F2 and FE in my film shooting catwalkshow days.
Being a poor student/starting photographer the longest lenses I could afford were the 4.5/80-200 AI and 4.5/300 ED AI (2.8 glass was a far away very expensive dream).
So when using these lenses, the central splitscreen part would blacken out under low light conditions, or when shooting with slow lens liek eg a 8/500mm mirror reflex lenses, leaving only the very thin microprism surrounding the splitscreen part for focusing
Personally I shoot Leica M9 if I need to be discrete,,, not easy in my size btw, discrete,,,
Tried my hand with a Leica rangefinder long ago (believe it was a M3) but never got used to the 'overlay' focusing system.
Indeed small and ideal for discrete photography though
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Despite having a.o. f1.4 AFS lenses, I personally prefer to revert to manual focusing under bad light, using the central AF point and the green AF point confirmation point in the viewfinder, as usually under bad light, the contrast gets too low to depend on the AF.
This is good advice, I would have done better with MF.
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I never carry out the Fujifilm XE-1 without a second battery in my pocket. I own 4 batteries for this cam. If I were traveling to remote locations with it, I'd bring 8 batteries. I currently have 3 chargers for my 4 batteries. If traveling, I'd add at least one more charger. No midnight battery changes for me.
Btw, the Fuji batts (and, I assume M4/3 batts and all the other mirrorless batteries) are very small and easy to carry in a small pocket.
The one downside of the lower-end DSLRs, such as the Nikon D3xxx series, is that the finder is dim and low contrast and not generally usable for eye focusing...even in full daylight.
The now-primitive EVF in my early Fuji XE-1 is usable for eye focusing in bright light, although it is dim. It is *claimed* that the newer Fuji bodies have a brighter EVF. I have not made that comparison myself.
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Thanks Dave, I had not heard of that. I was using guidance from this thread: http://nikongear.net/revival/index.php/topic,818.msg17331.html#msg17331
If the rubber grip seems fine, but is just coming off, do you see any need to replace it vs. just re-gluing it?
Thanks,
Rob.
The rubber grip can often expand, get out of shape, with heavy use, so it will no longer fit correctly - Spare rubber grip, bottom, door and sides etc. with adhesive tape is available from Nikon as spare parts on E-Bay for instance, your Nikon Service centre also have these of course.
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Which Sony E lenses do you have?
In order of usage:
Sony 16-70mm F4
Sony 35mm f/1.8
Sony 55-210mm F4.5-6.3
Sony 18-55mm original kit lens
Sigma 30mm F2.8 EX
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In order of usage:
Sony 16-70mm F4
Sony 35mm f/1.8
Sony 55-210mm F4.5-6.3
Sony 18-55mm original kit lens
Sigma 30mm F2.8 EX
Then I would not switch to m43 at all. You could consider the Sigma 19/2.8 as a wide option. In the tele end the Sigma 60/2.8 is excellent. The Sony 50/1.8 OSS is also very nice, with good bokeh. If you need superwide, the Sony 10-18/4 is good at the wide end. The Zeiss Touit 12/2.8 is good, but expensive. Same for the Sony Zeiss 24/1.8.
In short I would keep the Nex-7, fix the grip and consider the Sigma 19/2.8. Then you have a very nice kit to compliment the Nikon system already. Your Sony setup is just as small as m43, and the sensor is larger.
Added: I think that a small wide prime is often nice for social settings, hence the recommendation for the Sigma 19/2.8. The other lenses I mention, I would consider if needed.
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Df grip repair- so my grip rubber piece came completely off. Have cleaned off all sticky bits. When I go to reattach it, the rubber does not fit IN the indentation- it is both too long and wide. Is this b/c my piece has stretched out or is it just supposed to side ON that area, not fully in?
Thanks,
Rob.
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Df grip repair- so my grip rubber piece came completely off. Have cleaned off all sticky bits.
This issue happened with my Df, but with the little rear one.
It started to slide slowly first (toward the right side), and then I had to put it back in place after each session.
Eventually I remove it to make sure I wouldn't lose it.
As you did, I cleaned all sticky bits. I will glue it back as soon I find out witch stuff is the best to use. ???
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Sorry about your troubles with the rubbers on Df. I guess the trouble is partially caused by the poor grip design of Df which may make you to grab the camera more forcefully. I've never had such troubles on my D40, D7000, D610 or D750 with the grips of sufficient size.
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Sorry about your troubles with the rubbers on Df. I guess the trouble is partially caused by the poor grip design of Df which may make you to grab the camera more forcefully. I've never had such troubles on my D40, D7000, D610 or D750 with the grips of sufficient size.
You may be right. For me, I was out on a particularly cold day and the glue has never been the same since. I think my rubber piece is stretched out a bit, so my hand is "catching" the edge sometimes. I ordered a new piece, only $4 US cost but $9 to ship it!
If you search on Nikon rubber grip, you will find people of all camera makes having this problem, and Canon too! I don't think it is terribly model specific, but maybe you are right that different people have different styles of gripping that push sideways more.
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You just need to put on a 28-70mm 2.8 AFS or 24-70mm 2.8 AFS - You will be blown away by the AF speed! I promise.
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On the DF right?
Dave
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If the light is all but absent or there is no contrast a Nikon SB-700 can be set up to provide AF assist only. This is not in the menu or manual. I'll post the information when I have an SB-700 in hand.
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If the light is all but absent or there is no contrast a Nikon SB-700 can be set up to provide AF assist only. This is not in the menu or manual. I'll post the information when I have an SB-700 in hand.
I had forgotten about that, and do have an SB-700. Good idea.
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I had forgotten about that, and do have an SB-700. Good idea.
I forgot where I put my SB-700 but if memory serves me which it sometimes does the way to get the SB-700 to give the red AF assist pattern without firing the flash or even a preflash is to...
1) set the flash to master mode
2) set the master (channel M) to "---" or off
...now the important part...
3) set channels A and B to "---" or off also.
The SB-700 will now send a preflash for every channel that is turned on and since NO channel is on the SB-700 won't send any preflash :) but it will still give the red AF assist light pattern (provided all the other requirements are met which I guess varies from camera to camera).
I would setup the SB-700 and your camera in garden variety [TTL][BL] and once the AF assist pattern is being projected then proceed to the speedlight to master mode with all channels off. I think one used to need to setup the camera's focus mode to AF-S. That may still be true. One also used to need to use only the center focus spot. I'd start there but I do not think that is still true. Why else would the SB-700 have a "wide area AF-assist illuminator?"
The SB-700 and SB-800 are almost the same size and weight and the SB-800 has a simple menu option for AF-assist only. The SB-800 also has a wide area AF-assist. I'm really rambling. :) The steps above are a work-around since the SB-700 doesn't have that simple menu option.
I'm sorry I can't find my SB-700 tonight. I think I got this right. :)
Best,
Dave Hartman
I find it best practice when using CLS/AWL to set any channel where there will be no remote to receive a preflash to turn that channel to "---" or off to save battery, cut lag time and reduce blinking.
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FUJI kit is considerably smaller and slightly lighter than Nikon APS-C, never mind FF. You will need a small messenger bag to carry an XT2, three lenses, batteries and accessories. And there will be some space left. FUJI XF lenses are as good as anything APS-C to say the least and in my view are in the same league with L-glass.
I have switched to FUJI X (XT1) because I did not want FF any more but did not want to compromise on IQ. In that respect FUJI was the only realistic alternative, as the IQ in decent light is similar to FF Nikon or Canon thanks to great lenses. Now FUJI glass covers the whole range and the quality of lenses is consistently high. There are no poor/mediocre lenses unlike Canikon. In bad light AF may let you down if you shoot moving subjects with XT-1, but it should be considerably improved with XT2.
In bad light FF beats it as it should, but ISO 6400 with FUJI (below) is quite decent.
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Happy New Year All....
An update on this thread...
On the topic of grips: I got the new Nikon grip and it went on perfectly. It made me realize more clearly that the existing one was stretched out (as it did not fit back on squarely). Happy Camper with Df grip again (although for me I wish the grip was a little bigger to begin with).
On the Sony NEX-7 grip: I glued this one on with rubber cement and it seems good to go. Am putting off any decision to change APS-C kit.
On switching to Fuji: Decision put off. Have been shooting mostly with Df and 58 1.4
Part of the reason to delay any camera decision is my Mac Mini drive died so I have to restore and reconfigure. Didn't have as rigorous backup as I hoped (photos and LR catalog are fine, just some other stuff).
TLDR: Shoot more, change gear less.
Rob.
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I have been continuing to explore my camera needs, with the understanding that the cameras I have are great and I am grateful that I get to contemplate a new camera. I tend to think of four size classes of gear: iPhone, pocket camera (Sony RX-100), small/medium size - not pocketable (currently Sony NEX-7), and large (Nikon Df). To me, size is important as I am often on the run, or traveling, and having different options makes me more likely to take a camera.
My NEX-7 is showing its age both physically and occasional operation glitches so I have been looking to replace it. I have been trying out three options (with some ergonomic, not imaging notes):
- Sony A6500 - this is most similar to NEX-7 and thus feels comfortable. It is a dense camera, 453 g vs 400 g in the same body size and shape. Makes it feel solid, but heavy. Benefit of using my existing lenses, but those lenses are a mixed bag. Unfortunately, Sony dropped the much-loved dual control dials on top for a "mode" dial. Sigh.
- Fuji X-Pro2 - I wanted to love this one, everyone says it has "soul". It's a flat slab style (Rangefinder) that I found hard to hold (frankly, I sometimes feel the same about my Df). The hybrid view finder is innovative for sure, but I am not sure I would take to it over time. Close up shots have a strong parallax effect - the lines on the screen show you this, but it is still odd for me. ISO button has classic but awkward button within a button.
- Fuji X-T2 - I thought I would like this least due to the faux-SLR styling, but the model I am testing is Graphite Silver and looks really good. The buttons are where I want them and it feels comfortable. It reminds me much of the Df, it is almost a mini-Df with better top controls (for me). I am leaning towards this one. In terms of size, it is bigger than the NEX-7 but smaller than the Df. I would like it to be smaller yet, maybe like the Fuji X-E2 but that model has not been updated yet.
Anyway, I know there is a variety of opinions on camera size but thought I would throw out some of my current thoughts,
Cheers,
Rob.
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I have used a variety of cameras and I think that Df, Leica M and Fuji x-pro are all great if you want optical viewfinders (hybrid on the fuji) combined with a small package. That off course, depends on what lens you choose. The two first alternatives give you the "advantage" of a full frame sensor and ok battery life. That are all nice to carry around without straining your neck. There are many EVF-alternatives which is smaller, but I personally have never found something as good as the Df as a allround camera. There are grips available if you want something to hold on to, but then again, weight and size increases. Just my two cents.
I now see that you are after a APS-C system ::) Then I would go for the D500. Its light and versatile, has a good grip, outstanding AF, good batterylife, and excellent ISO performance. Whats not to like :)
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I recently travelled with the D750 and the 24 1.8G, 35 1.8G and 58mm 1.4g lenses. I did not notice a considerable weight difference from my days with the X-T1. To me, the lenses (plus the rest) are determining factors rather than the camera. Before switching back to Nikon I did some weight comparisons and was ready to use 1.8 instead of 1.4 lenses. These lenses still have a slight or at least comparable DoF compared to the fuji 1.2 and 1.4 lenses,
Having said that, I am thinking about adding a Leica Q, sony Rx1r ii, or fuji x-t20 with 18-55 zoom when I want to travel with a small package.
In addition, the Fuji X-T2 is an attractive option for travel photographers. but the Df is as well.
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I have used a variety of cameras and I think that Df, Leica M and Fuji x-pro are all great if you want optical viewfinders (hybrid on the fuji) combined with a small package. That off course, depends on what lens you choose. The two first alternatives give you the "advantage" of a full frame sensor and ok battery life. That are all nice to carry around without straining your neck. There are many EVF-alternatives which is smaller, but I personally have never found something as good as the Df as a allround camera. There are grips available if you want something to hold on to, but then again, weight and size increases. Just my two cents.
RobOK,
I went through something similar a while back. I put the Fuji/m43 head to head, and despite what some say - m43 is a very capable system and I shoot with it all the way up to ISO 6400.
The prime lenses and pro zooms are very good glass.
Coming from a Nikon background(I still shoot both systems, have a Df and love it), the Olympus made more sense from an ergonomics and system speed/performance stand point.
Just know that the m43 systems C-AF is very poor with cameras that do not have PDAF (only the EM1 series currently have that) or Panasonics DFD system. If that is a need for you in your mirrorless kit, then your options in bodies are going to be a little more limited.
The Oly OMD EM5.2 and EM10.2 are very capable "SLR" styled bodies, while the Olympus PEN-F is a great rangefinder styled body and gives me the same "feels" that the Df does when in use.
Many of these images from an anime convention were taken with EM1 Mark1 and MarkII available light with what many would consider high ISO - between ISO 2000 and 6400.
http://www.visualohio.com/2017/01/ohayocon-2017.html
I've also expressed my thoughts in a more detailed level about my decision to go m43 over Fuji in this post:
http://bestlightphoto.blogspot.com/2014/03/fuji-x100s-fuji-x-t1-olympus-om-d-em-5.html
Here are some of my reviews of the Oly bodies as well that you might find interesting
EM1 Mark II
http://bestlightphoto.blogspot.com/2016/12/olympus-o-md-em-1-mark-ii-review-first.html
http://bestlightphoto.blogspot.com/2016/12/olympus-om-d-em-1-mark-ii-4k-video-and.html
EM5 Mark II
http://bestlightphoto.blogspot.com/2015/07/olympus-omd-em5-mark-ii-gear-review.html
Hope this might help you a bit...or it might possibly make your decision that much harder. As others have said, whichever way you go, just make sure to handle the cameras with different lenses on them and see what you gel with and what makes the most sense for you.
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I recently travelled with the D750 and the 24 1.8G, 35 1.8G and 58mm 1.4g lenses. I did not notice a considerable weight difference from my days with the X-T1. To me, the lenses (plus the rest) are determining factors rather than the camera. Before switching back to Nikon I did some weight comparisons and was ready to use 1.8 instead of 1.4 lenses. These lenses still have a slight or at least comparable DoF compared to the fuji 1.2 and 1.4 lenses,
Having said that, I am thinking about adding a Leica Q, sony Rx1r ii, or fuji x-t20 with 18-55 zoom when I want to travel with a small package.
In addition, the Fuji X-T2 is an attractive option for travel photographers. but the Df is as well.
These are tough tradeoffs. I am not trying to pick a Df replacement, but rather a smaller alternate kit. The X-T2 plus a zoom gets to be pretty big and the Df with a prime can be pretty small, although the only prime I use frequently is the 58 1.4 which is not so small. Most often I have the 24-120 AF-S which makes the Df heavy. As you said the lens selection has a big impact on size/weight. I don't have a 35mm for the Df, just 20 1.8 AF-S, 28 2.8 AF-D, 50 1.8 AF-S, 85 1.8 AF-S, and 105 2.8 AF-S and a 105 Ai-S.
I'll continue to evaluate...
Rob.
-
I have been continuing to explore my camera needs, with the understanding that the cameras I have are great and I am grateful that I get to contemplate a new camera. I tend to think of four size classes of gear: iPhone, pocket camera (Sony RX-100), small/medium size - not pocketable (currently Sony NEX-7), and large (Nikon Df). To me, size is important as I am often on the run, or traveling, and having different options makes me more likely to take a camera.
My NEX-7 is showing its age both physically and occasional operation glitches so I have been looking to replace it. I have been trying out three options (with some ergonomic, not imaging notes):
- Sony A6500 - this is most similar to NEX-7 and thus feels comfortable. It is a dense camera, 453 g vs 400 g in the same body size and shape. Makes it feel solid, but heavy. Benefit of using my existing lenses, but those lenses are a mixed bag. Unfortunately, Sony dropped the much-loved dual control dials on top for a "mode" dial. Sigh.
- Fuji X-Pro2 - I wanted to love this one, everyone says it has "soul". It's a flat slab style (Rangefinder) that I found hard to hold (frankly, I sometimes feel the same about my Df). The hybrid view finder is innovative for sure, but I am not sure I would take to it over time. Close up shots have a strong parallax effect - the lines on the screen show you this, but it is still odd for me. ISO button has classic but awkward button within a button.
- Fuji X-T2 - I thought I would like this least due to the faux-SLR styling, but the model I am testing is Graphite Silver and looks really good. The buttons are where I want them and it feels comfortable. It reminds me much of the Df, it is almost a mini-Df with better top controls (for me). I am leaning towards this one. In terms of size, it is bigger than the NEX-7 but smaller than the Df. I would like it to be smaller yet, maybe like the Fuji X-E2 but that model has not been updated yet.
Anyway, I know there is a variety of opinions on camera size but thought I would throw out some of my current thoughts,
Cheers,
Rob.
I finished this chapter of the smaller camera replacement, i.e., bigger than pocket-size but smaller than full frame. I ended up with the Sony A6500 and not either of the Fuji. I can to this for several reasons:
* when I used the A6500 my muscle memory kicked in and it feels natural and comfortable (although only two primary control wheels vs. the NEX-7)
* I have lenses and really like the Sony/Zeiss 24-70 f/4
* at this point in time, i did not want a new "system" and did not want to buy a lot more lenses for Fuji
* the A6500 is super responsive and fast, I have a lot to learn about its focus system and other controls
* the Sony with lenses are smaller than Fuji and the lenses I would have gotten
I'm excited with the choice and it supports my goal of taking more artistic (vs. family and work events) shots this year, and posting same here whether from the Sony or the Df.
I am also working on a more complete set of primes to make my Df more portable and take it out more.
Maybe a Fuji X100F will be in my future, but for now no Fuji!
Cheers,
Rob.
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I am also working on a more complete set of primes to make my Df more portable and take it out more.
Cheers,
Rob.
Rob,
If you have 20mm, 28mm, 50mm, 58mm, 85mm, 105mm primes, that is sufficient. Throw the 28 or the 50 on and go.
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Rob,
If you have 20mm, 28mm, 50mm, 58mm, 85mm, 105mm primes, that is sufficient. Throw the 28 or the 50 on and go.
Yes Jack, sometimes we have to just shoot more with the gear we have! Thanks for the encouragement!