Rodenstock APO Ronar 150mm f/9

[Michael Erlewine]

So Michael, now that you have both lenses. How do they compare? It’s hard for us to compare at this resolution. Are you happy with your new acquisition?

The Ronar is sperb. The Germinar is also great, but (IMO) more like a very special portrait lens. I requires a very long bellows, which I have. I have to use it some more, but  it is a unique lens and will have to be worked with for a while for e to figure out what is best for it.

[Gerhard2006]

I think the Germanar was a different post was it not that is a 150/8 I was asking how you liked the Apo Geragon 150 F9 that you purchased?

[Michael Erlewine]

I think the Germanar was a different post was it not that is a 150/8 I was asking how you liked the Apo Geragon 150 F9 that you purchased?

Both are great.

[Gerhard2006]

Just wondering Michael, I have never used Zerene stacker before so I’m wondering how long does it take for it to render say 30 images into one? Is it a long process? I guess it depends on your sensor and how big your files are I guess but do you shoot raw files or just JPEG‘s. The Raw files would be pointless I guess on the Internet? The images you produce are always so sharp and you can blow them up in the screen and they still remain sharp. Do you use Stack shot or something similar to make the increments of your focussing even? Thanks in advance Gerry

[Michael Erlewine]

Just wondering Michael, I have never used Zerene stacker before so I’m wondering how long does it take for it to render say 30 images into one? Is it a long process? I guess it depends on your sensor and how big your files are I guess but do you shoot raw files or just JPEG‘s. The Raw files would be pointless I guess on the Internet? The images you produce are always so sharp and you can blow them up in the screen and they still remain sharp. Do you use Stack shot or something similar to make the increments of your focussing even? Thanks in advance Gerry

 I don't use Stackshot, although I have one. I shoot only raw NEFs...then convert them to TIFs to stack using Zerene Stacker. I have a fairly fast PC with 64 RAM and2 GPUS. It takes a while to process, so I do other things. If I had a slow computer, it would take a long time to run the three-passes Zeren Stacker likes to do.

[Michael Erlewine]

Here is one for you experts:

The literature on this lens says it is sharpest 1:1 at f/22. Well, I did not shoot at 1:1 and seldom do. I shot the following three images.

I shot stacked images at:

f/16 (4 images Stacked)
f/22 (4images Stacked)
f/9 (106 images Stacked)

F/16 was sharper than f/22…and f/9 (stacked was much sharper than either f/16 and f/22.

All stacked. The f/16 and f/22 were what I call a short stack, an image taken of each of the four main flowers. The image marked “Stacked” was 106 images stacked.

There is nowill hav question that the stacked image (106 layers) at f/9 is sharper that the 4-stacked images and f/16 and f/22.

And so, my question is that if I am not going to shoot at 1:1, there is no point in not using the lens wide open (or nearly so), correct?


Images as from camera, not adjustments mace Nikon Z7

You will have to read the label under each image.

[Jack Dahlgren]

If you are happy with 106 shots instead of 4, then I agree, f/9 looks great. Sharpness and even coverage across the frame is why f/22 would be important, but you are just using a small amount of the coverage.

[Michael Erlewine]

If you are happy with 106 shots instead of 4, then I agree, f/9 looks great. Sharpness and even coverage across the frame is why f/22 would be important, but you are just using a small amount of the coverage.

To be clear, it is not the 106 shots at f/9. It could have been four at f/9 and that would be clear as well. As I understand it, f/16 and especially f/22 diffraction is setting in, IMO. Perhaps at 1:1, the lens is at some peak, but not at the lower magnification that I use. I am just experimenting, always.

[KarlMera]

At 1:1 the eff. aperture is 18, not 9, an the diffraction is setting in.

[Gerhard2006]

The Apo Ronar 150/9 was designed for 6 x 9 cm negative size and so F 22 on that size of film would yield you sharpness right across the frame. All these lenses  designated Apo lenses are for large-format cameras for much larger image circles than what is needed for 35 mm. Process lenses were designed for the graphic arts industry to make three separate colour negatives for use in offset printing. But these lenses tend to be free of colour fringing which makes them good for general photography as well but shooting into the sun they might tend to flare a bit because they were  not designed for general photography. You’re  working with studio lighting or controlled  lighting which is perfect for this application. The Apo Garagon  lens you bought would probably cover 4 x 5 inches negative and so F 22 on that large an image would be needed to cover that negative. The six element lens allowed a photographer to move the lens around with tilt and shift movements.  So you would need the bigger image circle for this purpose.

[Birna Rørslett]

To answer the question asked earlier by Gerhard2006 (time for Zerene Stacker to merge 30 frames): depending on your computer, it's a matter of a few minutes (applying Pmax and Dmax routines). I spend more time setting up and shooting the stacks, since I typically need 2-20X magnification and the steps before shooting commences can take significant time to complete. I batch process the NEFs and stack  on dedicated computer(s) in the network, so can work in parallel if need be.

[Michael Erlewine]

Another photo just taken with the Ronar 150mm...complete with a crab spider.