Monopod head recommendations

[CS]

using the sunway since 3 years now (not very often) , I can say it works without problems.
You need normally only a 90° rotation, to switch from  camera mounted plate to lens mounted plate with  your monopod, but have never seen this.
Thus I use as well sometimes a 360° rotation by Sunwayfoto.
On the other hand, using a Swiss Monostat with its super foot, in most cases I do really not need to use  the head, as the foot allows enough tilt angle.

Thank you, Thomas. That is an interesting design, but I'm unable to source it here in the US. B&H, etc, simply list the brand as "No longer available".

[Seapy]

Carl, I use monopod a lot for motor racing, for many years I used the monopod mounted directly onto the lens collar via a Manfrotto RC2 plate on either the 300 f/2.8 or 400 f/4, even today when I have heads to spare I don't use them on a monopod for rare occasions I need portrait mode I rotate the lens in it's collar.  I wouldn't dream of mounting a body on a monopod via a swivel to portrait mode, it would throw the whole assembly way out of balance to one side, you would be constantly battling against the imbalance.

Quick word on the Area type dovetail plate clamps, some of the clamping screws have twin start threads, which are quicker to fully release or take up the slack but don't clamp the plate as well as the single start screw. In fact, less than 50% less grip for a given tightness, because the pitch is double that of a single start thread.  My expectation would be a greater tendency to work loose too.

[CS]

Carl, I use monopod a lot for motor racing, for many years I used the monopod mounted directly onto the lens collar via a Manfrotto RC2 plate on either the 300 f/2.8 or 400 f/4, even today when I have heads to spare I don't use them on a monopod for rare occasions I need portrait mode I rotate the lens in it's collar.  I wouldn't dream of mounting a body on a monopod via a swivel to portrait mode, it would throw the whole assembly way out of balance to one side, you would be constantly battling against the imbalance.

Quick word on the Area type dovetail plate clamps, some of the clamping screws have twin start threads, which are quicker to fully release or take up the slack but don't clamp the plate as well as the single start screw. In fact, less than 50% less grip for a given tightness, because the pitch is double that of a single start thread.  My expectation would be a greater tendency to work loose too.

Thanks, Seapy, I do appreciate your reasoning when it comes to mounting on a monopod, but my reasoning is different. I'm using the monopod for support, and to carry the weight of the gear, which I find beneficial as I age. Here's a very short video from RRS that shows the main difference between ball heads and tilt heads on a monopod. I don't find tilt heads restrictive for my shooting, YMMV.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fbwKJ6EWVek

I am curios about your remark concerning the A/S plate clamps. You say some have twin start threads while some don't, and you lost me there. It looks like the single start screw is preferred, but I am not sure which clamps, RRS, Kirk, etc, have which screws. Can you elaborate on that with some particular models?

[Seapy]

Hi Carl, During the creation of my 'Pano Head with a Difference' I bought various Arca style clamps and bases, until now I have stuck with Manfrotto CS2 clamps because they are very quick and easy to assemble one handed if needs be.  However I can see some benefits from the Arca style clamps, it seems I may have to run the two side by side...

However, as I do,  I dismantled some of these clamps to modify them, I ran into problems because some of the clamps use a twin start thread, you can't tell from the outside unless you know what you are looking for. The pitch angle is double that of the single pitch, so for one turn of the screw, it travels 2mm. instead of 1mm.,  the threads are 6mm diameter, 1mm. pitch is standard.

I feel although the double thread is faster, the clamping force is at best halved. Also the faster, double thread could be susceptible to working loose in use due to wriggling in the clamp.

Identifying makes may not help because there are so many out there. I doubt if many people realise there are the two types, all I can do is raise your and others awareness of the differences.  With mail order in the UK you can return goods easily if you don't like them for whatever reason. One of the single start clamps is marked Andoer, I machined off the makers mark on the twin start clamp during my mods, so I don't know the make of that one.

I don't know if the 'better' makes use twin start screws or not, some may.  Easy way to tell is to turn the screw one turn and check if the clamp moves 1mm it's single start and if it moves 2mm. it's twin start.

I agree about the cam lever clamp not being ideal, especially after some time you may accumulate various different makes of clamp, all slightly different, requiring adjustment when mounting different combinations of clamp and plate.

[CS]

Hi Carl, During the creation of my 'Pano Head with a Difference' I bought various Arca style clamps and bases, until now I have stuck with Manfrotto CS2 clamps because they are very quick and easy to assemble one handed if needs be.  However I can see some benefits from the Arca style clamps, it seems I may have to run the two side by side...

However, as I do,  I dismantled some of these clamps to modify them, I ran into problems because some of the clamps use a twin start thread, you can't tell from the outside unless you know what you are looking for. The pitch angle is double that of the single pitch, so for one turn of the screw, it travels 2mm. instead of 1mm.,  the threads are 6mm diameter, 1mm. pitch is standard.

I feel although the double thread is faster, the clamping force is at best halved. Also the faster, double thread could be susceptible to working loose in use due to wriggling in the clamp.

Identifying makes may not help because there are so many out there. I doubt if many people realise there are the two types, all I can do is raise your and others awareness of the differences.  With mail order in the UK you can return goods easily if you don't like them for whatever reason. One of the single start clamps is marked Andoer, I machined off the makers mark on the twin start clamp during my mods, so I don't know the make of that one.

I don't know if the 'better' makes use twin start screws or not, some may.  Easy way to tell is to turn the screw one turn and check if the clamp moves 1mm it's single start and if it moves 2mm. it's twin start.

I agree about the cam lever clamp not being ideal, especially after some time you may accumulate various different makes of clamp, all slightly different, requiring adjustment when mounting different combinations of clamp and plate.

Thanks again, Seapy. I will call the manufacturers and inquire about their screws, and I had no idea that there was a difference. Indeed, I should know by now not to expect industry standards with things like this. I do recall that back some time ago RRS had a warning about mixing their clamp gear while using the RRS lever clamp with Kirk plates due to a size difference. Thus they recommended the screw clamp instead.

[Seapy]

Thanks Carl, will be interested to know if they do use twin-start threads.

I checked out getting a twin-start tap and die, they aren't common and quite expensive, I could have bought several clamps for the price of a set of twin-start taps and a die.  I damaged the threads on one of the clamps because the screws are glued (Locktite?) into the clamps and I forcefully removed it and damaged the threads in the process! LOL  I kinda fixed up the threads and glued it back in, it works OK. 

[CS]

Thanks Carl, will be interested to know if they do use twin-start threads.

I checked out getting a twin-start tap and die, they aren't common and quite expensive, I could have bought several clamps for the price of a set of twin-start taps and a die.  I damaged the threads on one of the clamps because the screws are glued (Locktite?) into the clamps and I forcefully removed it and damaged the threads in the process! LOL  I kinda fixed up the threads and glued it back in, it works OK. 

My results are limited to Kirk and RRS screw clamps. I called Kirk and they said they use double start screws with a "marshmallow" type of grease on the threads that "helps to keep it from coming loose". Really Right Stuff, OTOH,  said that they use single start screws. Both Kirk and RRS clamps are well rated here, although I have not seen any response from a Kirk owner.

I wonder if the side play issue that Sam encountered with his RRS head was an anomaly, and even if it wasn't he was happy with the head. Cost wise, RRS screw clamp head is $40 more than the Kirk head, and has the advantage of employing the single start screw. That vs the Kirk design advantage of having the Allen wrench needed for changing the registry of the clamp as a built in accessory. I admit to being impressed by that feature because retrieving a little wrench of that nature when needed is normally an adventure for me.

All said and done, I guess the RRS clamp takes top honors. Of course if anyone has a better alternative, I'll give it a few days before I order, just in case. 

[basker]

I also considered the RRS MH-02 because of the "Clamp can be positioned in any one of four indexed stops without tools" feature. I eventually decided to go with the bare MH-01 and use the RRS clamp that I already owned. Also wanted to cut some cost.

The lever release clamp has never given me any reason for doubt. I do use lighter weight equipment than some others though. They are claimed to be self adjusting and I sort of assumed there is a stack of spring washers keeping tension on the cam portion of the lever as it toggles into the locked position. They do strongly advise using a plate from the same manufacturer. I have and like their "Pro" screw clamp as well.

As far as the end play on the hinge, they have a reasonable return policy anyway. I mentioned it only because it is something of which I would have wanted to be made aware. Would be interested to know if mine is an anomaly, when you get a chance to examine one.

[CS]

I also considered the RRS MH-02 because of the "Clamp can be positioned in any one of four indexed stops without tools" feature. I eventually decided to go with the bare MH-01 and use the RRS clamp that I already owned. Also wanted to cut some cost.

The lever release clamp has never given me any reason for doubt. I do use lighter weight equipment than some others though. They are claimed to be self adjusting and I sort of assumed there is a stack of spring washers keeping tension on the cam portion of the lever as it toggles into the locked position. They do strongly advise using a plate from the same manufacturer. I have and like their "Pro" screw clamp as well.

As far as the end play on the hinge, they have a reasonable return policy anyway. I mentioned it only because it is something of which I would have wanted to be made aware. Would be interested to know if mine is an anomaly, when you get a chance to examine one.

Thanks, Sam. I have the lever clamp on my A/S B1, and it's always maintained good purchase on my gear. OTOH, that's not quite the same as carrying that gear about on a monopod head, which could subject the gear to being suspended at less upward facing angles. The screw clamp would give me more peace of mind under such conditions. Considering the amount of time that I'd likely use the setup as a lens mount, I'm not going to need the speed of the tool-less re-indexing feature of the high end lever clamp. It will be setup as a body mount 99%, or more, of the time.

I will check for any undue play when I get a chance, and let you know. I done so much reading about these clamps that  things are becoming a blur. For instance, it seems to me that I read where one should order rubber covers for the locking knob because the bare knob van be hard on fingers. But now I can't remember which head they were talking about, or for sure who said it. I think it was Thom Hogan, but I'm not betting the farm on that memory, and I don't recall seeing any rubber covers offered for knobs.   

[Seapy]

Some of my knobs have like thin rubber tyres with a fine pyramid style grip, others have metal only knobs with six lobes.

[basker]

Having a foot mounted heavy lens pointing straight down is a different matter entirely. When friction is the only thing holding the load, you want a mighty tight pinch. 

[CS]

Having a foot mounted heavy lens pointing straight down is a different matter entirely. When friction is the only thing holding the load, you want a mighty tight pinch. 

Perzactly! 

[Erik Lund]

RRS is really bomb proof design and that goes for the monopod head as well, it just works


However, most of their designs have plenty of room for modifications and areas where one could shave off material to save weight and bulk 


It's about time the camera and lens designers adapt the arca swiss design and incorporate them directly into the cast camera body and lens feet, as it is now its archaic with all these Inch 1/4" 3/8" screw interconnections, ridiculous an a industrial world the current state of affairs - There is something rotten in the state of Denmark 

[CS]

RRS is really bomb proof design and that goes for the monopod head as well, it just works


However, most of their designs have plenty of room for modifications and areas where one could shave off material to save weight and bulk 


It's about time the camera and lens designers adapt the arca swiss design and incorporate them directly into the cast camera body and lens feet, as it is now its archaic with all these Inch 1/4" 3/8" screw interconnections, ridiculous an a industrial world the current state of affairs - There is something rotten in the state of Denmark 

Good observations, Erik!