Dismantling the PC-Nikkor 35nn f/3.5!!!

[richardHaw]

https://richardhaw.com/2016/09/03/repair-pc-nikkor-35mm-f3-5/

this lens isn't really complicated to overhaul but the sheer amount of parts alone makes this one of the more intricate Nikkors of this era to work with. a zoom would probably be as complicated.

[Matthew Currie]

Interesting.  I have the slightly later pre-AI 35/2.8, and found that it was dead easy to make AI compatibile, because once the rear mount is removed, the ring behind it can be removed and turned down a little and replaced.  There are no moving parts, so no need to do it stepwise as in other AI conversions.  I used a lathe, but lacking that I imagine I could have done it simply by careful filing, or laying a piece of sand paper on a table.

The later 2.8 has a longer rear section, to allow it to clear a Photomic head in all orientations, but I wonder if the same thing could be done with the early one.  The amount to remove is very small.

e.t.a. by the way, I like this lens so much it is my usual "normal" on the D3200 when I'm not in a hurry. 

[Matthew Currie]

Sorry that picture was so big! 

Anyway, adding to above, I might mention too that when I got mine, the shift was very loose.  The solution to this is in the chrome knob.  If you use the correct spanner to remove the two-hole nut in the end, you will find that the knob can be adjusted for drag. (note, I tried without a spanner first, and found the nut very tight, and my tool slipped, scratching the face of the knob!)  I imagine many, including Richard Haw, will find the necessary tools on their tables, but for those who do not, I found that a 4 mm. socket, filed or milled, was just the right size.  I used a nice cheap Asian socket, soft enough to file, hard enough to work.

[richardHaw]

Thanks for the input, Matthew! the knob on my lens was glued shut is it a left-handed screw?

[Matthew Currie]

Thanks for the input, Matthew! the knob on my lens was glued shut is it a left-handed screw?

It's a right hand screw, but mighty tight initially, and you must keep the outer knob from rotating when you start.  I used mini vise grips. Once you loosen the inner screw, you turn the outer knob relative to it, to tighten or loosen the drag.

If you loosen the inner screw and then bring the knob back out to tighten against it, the action will loosen.  If you loosen the inner screw, screw the knob in a little, and then tignten the inner screw down against it, the action will tighten.  Since the final tightening can have an influence, it can take a couple of tries to get it just right.

[richardHaw]

I see...going to take the torque wrench out then