leica does it .... nikon still asleep?

[Frank Fremerey]

The company developing the digital film was not able to pull that off.

Yet. Now that I have a FM-2 with film again and use it I really really appreciate the simplicity of the design.

Digitizing would mean to retain this simplicity and gain:

1. Not having to wind the film after every shot
2. Not being limited by the 36 slides on a roll
3. Change ISO without changing film
4. Having the result as NEF to work without chemistry intermediate

I do not need more.

I retain the ignorance of results till I open the files on a computer later

Shooting experience is detached from development.

The inner picture... the inner tension... all that is gained back from the old days... wonderful.

[Harald]

Hi,

just start a Kickstarter campaign for a digital F3-Upgrade. But wait a Moment for getting me a F3.

Harald

[pluton]

Dave, I have used both incident and spot meters with digital and they work fine....just like they did with film.  And, thanks to the digital camera's LCD and histogram display, I can check that the meter works fine right there in the field, without having to discover an error 24 or 48 hours later.

[Les Olson]

Many years ago the idea of a "digital film cassette" was the hottest topic. What happened to that concept might have a bearing on the present discussion here?

Well, yes, that was either a scam or an April Fool's Day joke.  But the underlying principle is alive and well: you can use film or digital backs on the newest Hasselblad (though not the newest Mamiya), and you can use digital backs as well as sheet film on view cameras.  So nothing happened to the concept of a camera that could use film or digital, except that interchangeable backs never made it to 35mm cameras that had never had interchangeable backs. 

[David H. Hartman]

So nothing happened to the concept of a camera that could use film or digital, except that interchangeable backs never made it to 35mm cameras that had never had interchangeable backs.

Yes, but the Nikon F, F2, F3, F4 and F5 all have interchangeable backs. The FM/FE family of camera all have interchangeable backs. They aren't like a Hasselblad A-12 but an image sensor could replace the pressure plate on any of these. I think the best candidates would be the F3 and FM/FE family. It could be done. In the case of the F3 it was done and it could be done again. I don't think there is a chance it will be done. I don't think there is a market.

Dave

[David H. Hartman]

...Now that I have a FM-2 with film again and use it I really really appreciate the simplicity of the design...

I understand the feeling of simplicity. I get that feeling from a Nikon F3, FE2 or FM2n. I used these camera in manual mode ignoring the aperture preferred option. I did use TTL Flash with the FE2 and I would use Auto Flash which we dinosaurs once called Auto Thyristor Flash with the others. For macro flash I used full manual flash with a Minolta Flash Meter III. I set the image scale, e.g. 1:2. I set the flash power. Focused on the meter's receptor and fired an open flash. I had an exposure compensation table in the film memo holder if needed. I set the aperture and went out to hunt. The exposure was perfect.

Anyway in a glance you can see all the settings you need: ISO, Shutter Speed, Aperture.  Come to think of it I generally used manual exposure with my F5. I set the custom settings to my liking and didn't change them for years. It wasn't until the Nikon D300s that I started to use Matrix Metering and Aperture Preferred. With the F5 I used center weighted metering will slide and the Pentax Digital Spotmeter for B&W. My use of the AF-ON button harkens back to the Nikon F and Nikkormat. You focus once and then grip the lens to lock focus and shoot until the lens to subject distance changes and then you focus again.

For those who like the idea of a camera without an LCD just don't use it. Don't chimp. Set the custom settings up once and don't change them. Use manual exposure mode with center-weighted metering or use a hand held light meter. You can do this with any current Nikon DSLR. Just don't peak!

Dave

Wait! I must have used Aperture Preferred with the FE2(s) using center-weighted for slides and the exposure lock. I used center-weighted a lot with slides. I haven't shot film since 2005.

The last roll of film I shot with my F5 I tried to chimp after taking a few shots. I was out of CF cards at a cousin's wedding. I put the F5 away and never developed the film.

I would really like to get my darkroom up and running. It needs a sewer line. It's 3.5x7 meters (11.5x23') as I recall. It has two 4x5" enlargers. I like printing B&W.

[Frank Fremerey]

"Do not chimp" ... yea. I do not use my display often.

I use my display when it comes to professional shooting esp to get the OK from someone who pays my bill

Mistakes happen and as a professional I have to deliver anyway. That is what the display is for and that is good.

Referring back to #15. I want the camera not to offer these options.

If you are out in the field you have no choice but to walk. If you are in your home in the city you can walk or cycle or
take the tram or bus or car.

Call me weak. I want to intentinally cut myself from all those options by using a tool that simply does not have them.

Another example. Bjørn's "one camera, one lens" days. I always do it. I choose one camera one lens at home and
I find it is a relief to make the best of the tools at hand. The FM-D with Pentaprism and Mirror would be a more
consequent step in that direction.

[David H. Hartman]

One camera, one lens?

Can I use a zoom? Would an AF 28-70/3.5-4.5D be OK? If not can I shoot with a AF-S 20/1.8G ED and just crop the livin' ...

I've used a 25-50/4.0 AIS by day and a 50/1.8 AI by night where the lenses stayed on my FE2 and only changed near sunset. I find it easier to use two lenses. My bad?

I did once shoot Tri-X only for months on end. I could not afford film except I had one or two 100' rolls of Tri-X in bulk. That really helped me learn to previsualize. I guess I shot a little Super-XX in 4x5" but that's B&W and one learns to see the colors of your subject not as colors but as they will appear in a print in your darkroom.

If shooting B&W where that is the intended final product I recommend using a monochrome Picture Control. For me at least that changes my mind set to B&W. I use a yellow filter effect with my PC. I can change that in post or change to color but setting a B&W PC changes the way I think as I shoot.

Anyway I'm off to bed. It a quarter after three here. 

[Frank Fremerey]

Goood night, Dave. I am in the office and a huge pile of work on my desk...

[Asle F]

Why not a digital back and winder for the F3

Sounds like something Kodak could have done already:
http://www.mir.com.my/rb/photography/companies/Kodak/index.htm