Nikkor 135 AF DC f/2 D

[beryllium10]

Robert - thanks. These were all taken wide open, so f/2 for the 135mm.  Closing down, even to f/2.8, makes the disk edges non-circular.  The 135 DC is a favorite lens.  Still fairly expensive second-hand, though prices came down quite a bit after release of the 105mm f/1.4.
Erik and Charlie, thanks, that's good news - something I can get at to clean.  I'd wondered if I was seeing diffraction around something internal, with the lens so far out of focus.  I did try to clean the rear element with a blower, but probably left a few specks that I'll need to take off with a cloth.
Cheers again,  John

[Robert Camfield]

John,

To clarify, do I understand that the out-of-focus disks (X-mas tree lights, I think) stretch out, assuming a progressively more elliptical shape with smaller apertures?

...Thanks again, Robert   

[beryllium10]

Hi again Robert - they are out-of-focus Xmas tree lights, but as you stop down they begin to show the 9-sided polygonal shape of the aperture.  To show the effect I'll take a series at successively smaller apertures and post.  Cheers,  John

[Fons Baerken]

D3  135mm f/2DC max frontside blur, max rearside blur
posted earlier i know

[Robert Camfield]

...but as you stop down they begin to show the 9-sided polygonal shape of the aperture.  To show the effect I'll take a series at successively smaller apertures and post.

Got it - thanks, John. For me, these photos with the DCs by you, Fons, and Jakov highlight the importance of out-of-focus regions. Discretely managed, out-of-focus features can make for strikingly beautiful photos.

Robert       

[Jack Dahlgren]

Some great shots in this thread. Here are some new images to bring it back to life.

[Jakov Minić]

...but as you stop down they begin to show the 9-sided polygonal shape of the aperture.  To show the effect I'll take a series at successively smaller apertures and post.

Got it - thanks, John. For me, these photos with the DCs by you, Fons, and Jakov highlight the importance of out-of-focus regions. Discretely managed, out-of-focus features can make for strikingly beautiful photos.

Robert     

Hi Robert, stopping down the DC lenses is blasphemy
I am yet to stop it down beyond f/4, and i only shoot at f/4 in case i shoot portraits and need a bit of depth to get both eyes in focus.
Otherwise, when abusing DC, f/2 is the way to go.
Jack and Fons have shown exemplary images

[Jack Dahlgren]

I’m not sure if Robert is still following this thread, but I will be happy to agree with you Jakov, the lens is most interesting at the extremes. I’d also like to add that the rounded aperture blades help keep the circles mostly round even when stopped down. They are not perfect, but are better than the typical Nikkor aperture. Here is a photo comparing with the 180mm f/2.8 ED. 180mm on the left side of photo.

[Snoogly]

Sorry to go off on a slight tangent. but does anyone know of online instructions about opening up & cleaning one of these?

I have my eye on one at a fair price, but the owner reports it as being 'dusty' :-0

[Jack Dahlgren]

Sorry to go off on a slight tangent. but does anyone know of online instructions about opening up & cleaning one of these?

I have my eye on one at a fair price, but the owner reports it as being 'dusty' :-0

Where is the dust? There is a rear cover glass which should keep most dust out of it. Potentially it is fungus inside.
I have not taken mine apart but it appears to have a helicoid which is associated with the DC lens group in the front. This is controlled by the dedicated DC ring.
Then there is the focus group which is behind the aperture and which is controlled by the focus ring. This group is also driven by screwdriver AF.

What do you consider a fair price? Mine was under US$600 and is in nearly unused condition. There are many others in great condition available for around that price.

Sorry to not be too helpful, but I expect that this would not be a great lens to experiment on unless you got it for a very good price. Paying a bit more for one which requires less attention may be worthwhile.

[Jack Dahlgren]

Since you are in Tokyo, you may want to contact Richard Haw - he might be interested in disassembling and cleaning to put on his blog.

[Snoogly]

Where is the dust? There is a rear cover glass which should keep most dust out of it. Potentially it is fungus inside.
I have not taken mine apart but it appears to have a helicoid which is associated with the DC lens group in the front. This is controlled by the dedicated DC ring.
Then there is the focus group which is behind the aperture and which is controlled by the focus ring. This group is also driven by screwdriver AF.

What do you consider a fair price? Mine was under US$600 and is in nearly unused condition. There are many others in great condition available for around that price.

Sorry to not be too helpful, but I expect that this would not be a great lens to experiment on unless you got it for a very good price. Paying a bit more for one which requires less attention may be worthwhile.

Sadly I don't know the details, and the seller is not very savvy..

[Jakov Minić]

I’m not sure if Robert is still following this thread, but I will be happy to agree with you Jakov, the lens is most interesting at the extremes. I’d also like to add that the rounded aperture blades help keep the circles mostly round even when stopped down. They are not perfect, but are better than the typical Nikkor aperture. Here is a photo comparing with the 180mm f/2.8 ED. 180mm on the left side of photo.

Oops not noticed how old Robert's post was 
I adore the 180/2.8 ED, too. It is also renders a smooth background regardless of the aperture blades as you illustrated.

[Jack Dahlgren]

Oops not noticed how old Robert's post was 
I adore the 180/2.8 ED, too. It is also renders a smooth background regardless of the aperture blades as you illustrated.

I like it too, but it is an awkward length for me. I usually want something shorter or longer. Most times I bring it along, I end up not using it.

[Jack Dahlgren]

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