My first chipping of a Nikkor

[Bjørn Jorde]

I decided to take the leap and try chipping.
Thanks to the guidance from The Fierce Bear of the North, I successfully chipped my 28/f2 AI lens.
Certainly took me longer than it would for him or Dr Lens, but it's fun once it's done.

Here are a few shots of the process (taken with Df w/60D micro), as well as a shot taken with the 28/2 after chipping.

[Tristin]

Must feel fantastic, congratulations!  Having a job performed superbly by someone else is great, but performing it at least adequately yourself is a higher level of satisfaction.  For myself, anyhow. 

[Bjørn Jorde]

Thanks.
I agree completely.
I have two more Nikkors begging to be chipped next :-)

[Øivind Tøien]

Great work, and specially with countersinking the screws cleanly and for a first time chipping.

[Bjørn Rørslett]

Congratulations on a job well done. I observe that using a jig makes for cleaner appearance of the modification

[richardHaw]

that looked pretty straight forward 

[John Geerts]

Nice work and great photo's.  It looks very simple yes

[Bjørn Jorde]

Congratulations on a job well done. I observe that using a jig makes for cleaner appearance of the modification

The jig made it a lot easier and less stressful 

[Thomas G]

Bjørn, can you tell us more about that jig you used?

[Bjørn Jorde]

OK, I'm now done with my second Nikkor. This time the 105 f2.5 classic.
Second time is easier in many ways, but each lens is different with it's own challenges.
My biggest challenge with this lense was the spring controlling the aperture return (I think).

Here are some pictures of the process, again taken with the Df with 60D micro.
First image is of the unaltered lense.
Second is of the lense with the light baffled removed.
Third shows the mount removed and the spring resting on the rear element. Unlike the 28/2, the 105/2.5 has one part of the spring on the mount the other on the lens.
Forth shows drilling the mounting holes for the CPU block.
Fifth shows counter-sinking the holes.
Sixth shows the mounted CPU on the lens mount before covering in electrical tape.
Seventh shows mount on lens and the adjusted (cut) light baffle.
Eight shows the completed work.
The last two are taken with the converted lens of my workspace and tools used.

Not shown: me enjoying a beer afterwards 

[Bjørn Jorde]

Bjørn, can you tell us more about that jig you used?

Thomas,

The jig is a template mounted on the bayonet mount showing where to drill the holes for the CPU block.
Bjørn R. made it and let me borrow it.

[richardHaw]

nice work! sorry i do not understand the 4th picture. i just overhauled this same lens yesterday and i do not remember seeing this part. can you please explain?

yes, the tiny spring is dangerous 

[Bjørn Jorde]

The forth picture shows the jig in action. It's mounted on the bayonet mount with guiding holes.

[richardHaw]

The forth picture shows the jig in action. It's mounted on the bayonet mount with guiding holes.

OK! that is why i did not see it 

this looks like a pretty straight forward modification...maybe i should try it some time. (after i bought my NOCT)

[Bjørn Rørslett]

this looks like a pretty straight forward modification...maybe i should try it some time. (after i bought my NOCT)

CPU modification projects range from the super easy 10 minutes job to daredevil tasks. In case of the Noct, have a look here: http://nikongear.net/revival/index.php/topic,276.0.html

That is *not* for newbies.

It is a wonderful fact that nearly all Nikkors, though obviously never designed for mounting anything extra inside them, still can be coaxed into accepting the grafting of a CPU with its contact block. One just have to be inventive sometimes to make room for the electronics and print lanes.

Nikon officials deny the CPU modification is possible at all, but many hundreds of CPU-modified lenses bespeak another story.

As to the lenses Bjørn Jorde is doing, we discussed the selection beforehand and I recommended the less exacting ones for him. Good to see the modifications are coming through nicely.

BJ: you are using a too thick drill bit to countersink, or the screw driver is too large. One should not have marks or burrs on the inner mounting flange. If such is formed, carefully polish off as otherwise the burrs can scratch the camera mount.