I really like my Think Tank Retrospective. I have the 30 V2 (one of the largest) but the Retrospectives are essentially the same bag in lots of different sizes. I think they're similar to canvas Domke bags but a bit more modern.
Water resistant with an included waterproof cover. Doesn't look too much like a camera bag, comfy strap, front pockets, water bottle holder, customisable dividers with just the right amount of padding. I can fit a my 14-24 f2.8g, 24-70 f2.8g and 70-200 f2.8g, D810, a flashgun and a few filters which is the most I'd ever want to carry on one shoulder. I often use it with far less inside though.
If I ever want to carry more or intend to walk a long way then I use a backpack. You're right that backpacks aren't always practical but sometimes it's the difference between getting to the shot and giving up because of back pain and fatigue.