Ai and K Nikkors 400mm f5.6 ED "non-IF"

[Snoogly]

Good or bad, the auction has been closed...   

I bought it! Almost on a whim. Not delivered yet, but if it turns out to be as ‘good’ as the description I’d be happy to pass it on for the price I paid :-)

[Akira]

I bought it! Almost on a whim. Not delivered yet, but if it turns out to be as ‘good’ as the description I’d be happy to pass it on for the price I paid :-)

Good for you!  Hope you enjoy it.  You would need to get used to its handling, but you will be rewarded by the image it offers.

[Snoogly]

Damn!

So I bought an AI converted PC Auto on Yahoo Auctions, and although the description stated ‘Considering its age, it maintains a good appearance. There is no noticeable damage to the mount, and it is generally in a beautiful state.’, the bayonet is clearly damaged.

Pardon my own terrible photos, but ironically the bent part of the bayonet is more clearly visible on the photo included in the auction listing! (Third image). I didn’t notice the buckling, or I wouldn’t have bought it …

Here’s the thing … The lens attaches easily and smoothly to an FTZ adapter, and it seems to function without issue. However, how serious is this buckling of part of the bayonet? Is it going to damage an FTZ, or have any other negative results? In short, should I complain and return it for a refund, or live with it?

[Akira]

Is the bent part the end of the light baffle?  So long as it doesn't interfere with the adapter mechanically, or you don't feel any mechanical resistance or friction when you mount the lens to the adapter, it won't cause any problem.

The entire barrel looks reasonably clean.  If the optics is free from any potential problem (haze, fungus, scratch, etc.), then you would be able to live with the lens depend on the price you paid for it.

[Snoogly]

Sorry for the lack of clarity! I circled the damaged part on this image.

Indeed, it’s the baffle, not the bayonet itself which is damaged.

The weather today is too gloomy to be able to test the lens in any meaningful way, but operationally it seems OK. Optically it’s very clear.

I paid the asking price of ¥33,800 (about $260), so I guess I need to ask myself if I am Ok with a slightly grungy item.

[Akira]

Sorry for the lack of clarity! I circled the damaged part on this image.

Indeed, it’s the baffle, not the bayonet itself which is damaged.

The weather today is too gloomy to be able to test the lens in any meaningful way, but operationally it seems OK. Optically it’s very clear.

I paid the asking price of ¥33,800 (about $260), so I guess I need to ask myself if I am Ok with a slightly grungy item.

The price seems to be reasonable, if it works fine.  My sample was 44,000 JPY.  I saw the one with the "golden ring" sold for 77,000 JPY at Katsumido which I think is the Ginza price.

[Matthew Currie]

I don't think I'd worry about the damage, but make really really sure that the tiny little setscrew in the mount, about 180 degrees from the top center of the lens, is still present.  This little screw prevents the lens from being accidentally over-rotated the wrong way.  When I got mine, this screw was missing.  Fortunately I had mounted it on a Nikon F whose back could be removed.  If you over-rotate, it goes past the aperture lever of the camera and can't be gotten off without either getting behind it, taking something apart, or causing damage.  One of my old Nikon F's showed signs of this having happened before I got it, because the aperture lever was bent, but I don't think newer ones are made of nice malleable brass. I mention this because I'm imagining that such a jam could cause damage to that neighboring light baffle. 

The ones on the gold band AI are actually a little different and very thick. I think they'd break before they bend. Placed a little differently too, because the one nearest the setscrew is the max aperture post.

[Snoogly]

I don't think I'd worry about the damage, but make really really sure that the tiny little setscrew in the mount, about 180 degrees from the top center of the lens, is still present.  This little screw prevents the lens from being accidentally over-rotated the wrong way.  When I got mine, this screw was missing.  Fortunately I had mounted it on a Nikon F whose back could be removed.  If you over-rotate, it goes past the aperture lever of the camera and can't be gotten off without either getting behind it, taking something apart, or causing damage.  One of my old Nikon F's showed signs of this having happened before I got it, because the aperture lever was bent, but I don't think newer ones are made of nice malleable brass. I mention this because I'm imagining that such a jam could cause damage to that neighboring light baffle. 

The ones on the gold band AI are actually a little different and very thick. I think they'd break before they bend. Placed a little differently too, because the one nearest the setscrew is the max aperture post.

Thanks for the heads up. Set screw checked, and at first I was worried as I couldn’t see it - but after a little probing I found it hiding under 50 years of filth.

[Roland Vink]

Sorry for the lack of clarity! I circled the damaged part on this image.

That tiny bend in the rear baffle will not interfere with the lens performance in any way. Use the lens without any concerns and enjoy taking pictures with it

[John Geerts]

Good to hear it is optically all right, Richard

Forsthia in bloom now.  On the D850 -  wide open, handheld

[Snoogly]

Handheld on a DSLR! And a high MP one at that!

You have a steadier hand the me!!!!

[Hugh_3170]

Maybe temporarily remove the rear lens stray light baffle and repaint it with Humbrol mat black paint (No.33).  It will hide the worn areas and will have the baffle looking like new.

Link:  https://uk.airfix.com/products/no-33-black-matt-tinlet-no-1-14ml-aa0360 

That tiny bend in the rear baffle will not interfere with the lens performance in any way. Use the lens without any concerns and enjoy taking pictures with it

[Snoogly]

Maybe temporarily remove the rear lens stray light baffle and repaint it with Humbrol mat black paint (No.33).  It will hide the worn areas and will have the baffle looking like new.

Link:  https://uk.airfix.com/products/no-33-black-matt-tinlet-no-1-14ml-aa0360

I’ll do that, if the baffle is easy to remove. Can’t find any relevant ‘repair’ instructions online though.

[Hugh_3170]

Usually the baffle is retained by three small screws (around M1.4 size).  Occasionally you may have to also remove the anti rotation screw mentioned by Matthew Currie.  Usually the baffle will  then come straight out, but with some lenses you will need to very carefully wiggle and manouvere the baffle out around the aperture stop down lever.

I’ll do that, if the baffle is easy to remove. Can’t find any relevant ‘repair’ instructions online though.

[Snoogly]

In! But the bayonet screws were held by the jaws of the devil …

Horrendously filthy, but I was easily able to bend the baffle into shape with pliers. Now I need to source suitable Matt black paint in Japan.

I noticed some stubborn spots on the rear element I couldn’t clean well without further dismantlement. Hunted around, but couldn’t find any repair guides for this, or similar lenses. I imagine it would be quite easy though, as all the set screws and retaining rings seem clearly visible - with the caveat that the original glue/resin is stubborn as hell, plus a heck of a lot of grime.

The lens has had a LOT of use!