Choosing between 10.5/2.5 and 135/2.8 Q

[MEPER]

I wonder why Nikon decided to go back to 6-blade aperture?
I have no. 197838 and it has 6-blades. It is a quite heavy lens. A lot of glass in it.

[Petr sheepeck Jůza]

I remember reading at Richard Haw’s site that manufacturing these lenses with 9 blades was too difficult hence this simplification.

Now few mentioned photos:

[Roland Vink]

In the early days Nikon made photographic lenses for rangefinder cameras. With these lenses the aperture is always at the shooting aperture, the aperture blades don't need to open and close quickly so can be robust and heavy, with lots of blades to make a nice circular opening, and it does not matter too much if they are bit sticky due to dirt and oil.

Very early SLR lenses also had many aperture blades. But with SLR lenses the blades must close and reopen very quickly when the picture is taken, so they must be very thin, light and clean. The early lenses were very delicate and fiddly to assemble. The high number of blades also have more friction than apertures with a lower blade count, and may have not have been quick enough at high shutter speeds. Whatever the reason, Nikon decided reduce the number of blades to 6 for most lenses (5 for the Nikkor-H 28/3.5). During the mid 1960s a number of lenses were introduced or upgraded to have 7 blades, which gives blurs a nicer shape and in my opinion is a better compromise between ease of assembly and attractive bokeh.

[Petr sheepeck Jůza]

Oh, that’s the reason.
Thank you for the explanation.

[Petr sheepeck Jůza]

After long waiting I was able to test out this 10.5cm 1:2.5 - my F2 has arrived, I exchanged the light sealing and bought some rolls.
Dirty shots, but I love the outcome nonetheless. 

[ianwatson]

Lovely!

HP5+ and FP4+ were my films of choice when I started in this wonderful hobby. Dust was the unseen enemy! 

[Jack Dahlgren]

Lovely!

HP5+ and FP4+ were my films of choice when I started in this wonderful hobby. Dust was the unseen enemy! 

Mine too, but ran tri-x pro in the 4x5.

[David H. Hartman]

Dust was the unseen enemy! 

Bevel the edges of your negative carrier and black them again with VHT flat back motorcycle case paint. Very durable! Adheres very well to aluminum and takes much abuse. Tilt the carrier at an acute angle under a high intensity light. The dust literally glows on the surface of the negative. I used "canned air" to blow off the dust. Occasionally a soft very clean brush might be used to nudge dust. I used a dicronic color enlarging head (diffusion) and made consistent spot and scratch free prints. With the right technique there is almost no need to spot. I would leave the negative in the carrier and inspect the wet print. If there was a spot I would usually toss the print, dust the negative again and make another print. If time is money then spotting prints is a loss.

With the right enlarging lens stopped down no further than f/8.0 for 35mm and focused with a 10x Omega heavy grain focuser very sharp, spot and scratch free prints were routine. Again a diffusion enlarger saves the day.

Dave

My favorite B&W films were Tri-X Pan (not professional) and Super-XX 4x5.

[Erik Lund]

In the early days Nikon made photographic lenses for rangefinder cameras. With these lenses the aperture is always at the shooting aperture, the aperture blades don't need to open and close quickly so can be robust and heavy, with lots of blades to make a nice circular opening, and it does not matter too much if they are bit sticky due to dirt and oil.

Very early SLR lenses also had many aperture blades. But with SLR lenses the blades must close and reopen very quickly when the picture is taken, so they must be very thin, light and clean. The early lenses were very delicate and fiddly to assemble. The high number of blades also have more friction than apertures with a lower blade count, and may have not have been quick enough at high shutter speeds. Whatever the reason, Nikon decided reduce the number of blades to 6 for most lenses (5 for the Nikkor-H 28/3.5). During the mid 1960s a number of lenses were introduced or upgraded to have 7 blades, which gives blurs a nicer shape and in my opinion is a better compromise between ease of assembly and attractive bokeh.

Yes, the best compromise is apparently 9 blades unless they start using smart glass technology where you can turn the correct size of the aperture on and off instantly, then you would have only one blade and no sun stars or diffraction spikes 

[Jack Dahlgren]

Yes, the best compromise is apparently 9 blades unless they start using smart glass technology where you can turn the correct size of the aperture on and off instantly, then you would have only one blade and no sun stars or diffraction spikes 

Presumably, you could control to enhance sun stars or other creative effects - just waiting for instagram shots with bokeh hearts.

[David H. Hartman]

I've thought of a solid state mirror years ago as well as aperture. Dick Tracy has his wrist TV! Why not a solid state optical viewfinder and aperture.   

OK, solid state optical viewfinder probably doesn't make sense. I thinking of a solid state replacement for a pellicle mirror.

[Peter]

The 135mm f2.8 Q is a super lens, you can get them for under $60.00 in good condition.
Easy to get Ai converted or do it yourself..
Down side between the 135mm compared to the 105mm is it's almost twice the size and twice as heavy, but it does have the built in lens hood.
I own five 105mm f2.5 in every model two 135mm f2.8 Q and one Q.C.
Something you may want to look into is the Tokina Made #37 Vivitar 100mm Auto f2.8 F mount small size with built in lens hood and stops down in half stops across the aperture range..

I have two and are so simple to Ai convert a 10 year old could do it...
The lip on the Aperture ring is shorter than on the older Pre Ai Nikkor rings, so it clears the Aperture control tab on the camera with no problem.

See photos, I cut a tab of strip metal and super glued it to the appropriate location on the aperture ring, no cutting or removing parts.
The photo of the electric meter was shot on my D3 at f8 the Outdoor light at f2.8 no Post straight out of the camera.
Hard to find at times but sell under $75.00 and are very sharp, due to older coating some push on contrast is needed on bright days.
I like this lens much better than the E series 100mm f2.8.

[David H. Hartman]

That’s not even funny anymore. Could somebody help me and recommend some GAS remedy? :-)

Yes: buy the tools you need for a particular purpose.

Yes: never sell a tool as you may need it in the future.

Yes: Abandon at once the "Life of Optical Poverty" or "Sell all your lenses, give to the poor and come follow me." --Henri Cartier-Bresson

Stop worrying about GAS. Unless you have embraced the "Life of Optical Poverty" don't try to carry ever lens you own on any particular outing. Take what you think you will need or want and live within your decision, e.g. if you didn't bring a macro lens don't look for flowers, look for a field of flowers.

Who am I to give advice?

When did I decide to compare 135 2.8 Q with 10.5 2.5 and then let the 10.5 go? Couple of weeks ago? Month? Then David Hartman came up with thread about 105 and 135 lenses again and you guys chimmed in and BOOM – I was on Yahoo auction site in no time  – and guess what? I bought another 10.5 2.5.

Excellent! 105mm and 135mm are unique tools. I like to say they suggest a particular perspective. If you stand a 2m from a person and want a head and shoulders portrait you might choose the 105mm lens. If you stand at the same 2m from a person and choose a 135mm lens you’ll crop to a tight head shot.

You can’t zoom with your feet. You can’t! When you stand in one place and zoom (change focal length) the perspective remains the same but the crop changes as your subject to lens distance remains the same. When you move closer or further from your subject with a constant focal length the crop and the perspective both change. In the lingo of cinema you zoom or dolly.

One way to use a 105mm and 135mm lens is to choose the perspective you want. You can do this without lifting the camera to your face. Once you have chosen you stand where the perspective is what you want and you select the crop by changing lenses or if using a zoom lens you zoom.

There is no wrong way to do this. If you have two lenses or you have a zoom lens you have the flexibility to make choices. If you have only a 50mm lens you still have the flexablity to make choices.

I understand Anne-Sophie Mutter owns two Stradivarius violins. That’s not GAS. She is a professional and needs a backup. Her violins are the tools of her trade. Maybe now she owns three?

Justin Johnson owns perhaps hundreds of blues guitars. They all sound different. Some have 12 strings, some have only one. Eric Clapton as I recall played mostly “Blackie” (a Fender Stratocaster) for years. Their music brings joy to my life: Anne-Sophie, Justin, Eric; violin, guitar. It’s all good.

Dave

If I could sell my soul as Robert Johnson did I might go down to the Crossroads too.

[David H. Hartman]

A bit of Mississippi Delta legend ...

Crossroads Myth And The Truth Behind It Told By Justin Johnson

Enjoy!

[Akira]

A bit of Mississippi Delta legend ...

Crossroads Myth And The Truth Behind It Told By Justin Johnson

Enjoy!

Cool!