Thank you! Very valuable both of you Good luck on the F2 will be waiting patiently
Since you like it, I'll add a few notes.
What I described above is Frankenstein Level v.1, a simplified version of version 2.
Version 1 was giving an excessively compressed scale. When I developed version 2, the period incorrect items are given a +5 value, and period correct items a -1 value.
I start from 23 (instead of from 0, which was version 1)
I have 23 criteria, if they all pass I reach Frankenstein Level 0 ( = perfectly correct camera)
Even if I have only 2-3 incorrect pieces, the Frankenstein level rises rapidly (to 10 or 15 in those cases).
There are more criteria to account for, removable pieces don't count for Frankenstein evaluation (but if present and correct, they will award a -1)
The real TOP Frankenstein camera will have a +110 evaluation
Removable pieces are film back, prism, focussing screen, and lens. This is why you can reach +110 maximum!
BTW, the Nikon F sn 6402999 has a Frankenstein level of 2. Not zero, because it has no prism and no lens. The rest is perfect. Could reach a FS level of 0 by adding correct pieces.
The Frankenstein evaluation is done by using an automated formula on an Excel sheet. I insert my observations into the sheet, the number is green if it's correct by the de Stoutz typology, it's pink if it's correct by the mxbianco typology (which I call a
deStoutz extension, extending Richard's own findings with my personal findings), and it's red if it's incorrect.
Green and Pink columns give a -1 contribution each, red columns give a +5 contribution. The formula simply counts the cells by colour, and also evaluates the
Best F'stein attainable[sometimes there's no time to take a camera apart -some features require a partial dismantling-]
On a side note, when disassembling a Nikon F, it's nice to take note of the TWO body casting numbers, one engraved on the front apron upper R corner with a sharp object, and the other printed with yellowish ink in the back, normally on the side where the rewind lever is placed. But you have to remove part of the casing to read them. Normally the body casting #s correspond, but in some instances de Stoutz has found them to differ, probably a sign of a camera that has been repaired, with parts from two different cameras. In the disassembly by Richard Haw, you can see the rear body casting # (one before the lastpicture, only first 3 digits visible: 927x, last digit is maybe a 3)
Ciao from Massimo