D200 main/sub-command dial problem

[Lorne]

The main & sub command dials on my D200 do not respond properly. I suspect dirty contacts are the root of the problem but thought I'd ask if anyone else has had similar troubles and how they were resolved.

My Df has been my primary camera since 2013 so my D200 doesn't see much. Funny thing is that the same dials on the MB-D200 battery pack work a treat.

[Birna Rørslett]

Dirt or worn rubber rings. Do consider having the camera serviced while it can be saved.

[Lorne]

Thanks, Birna, but it isn't a mechanical issue with the dials. The dials rotate both directions and the detents feel crisp. But if I am trying to adjust ISO/Qual/WB the response is erratic. For example, when trying to ISO it may jump from 400 to 500, or down to 320, or no response at all. Equivalent response with Qual or WB, too.

[Birna Rørslett]

OK, internal cleaning of contacts then. The symptoms might also point to corrosion of printed boards. Again, have the camera serviced is my advice.

[Øivind Tøien]

The main & sub command dials on my D200 do not respond properly. I suspect dirty contacts are the root of the problem but thought I'd ask if anyone else has had similar troubles and how they were resolved.

I recently had a similar discovery that that the sub-command dial (front) was not working at all on my D200, absolutely no response, complexity dead. Last time it was used (probably many months to a year ago) it worked without a hitch. It has just been sitting there, stored in a nice dry place in my heated cabin together with the rest of my equipment. This does not seem like a symptom of a bad contact on the encoder. I think that would typically lead to a period of unreliable action before it stopped working. There is no  change in the mechanical feeling of the dial. Also does anyone know if those dials use optical encoders or mechanical encoders? I am thinking the problem could be due to aging of some electronic component like a capacitor drying out.

Alternatively I considered whether I had changed a setting that disabled it and forgot about it. However when I switched front and rear command dial in the menus, the aperture that could not be controlled from the front command dial now could be controlled from the rear command dial, while shutter speed became unavailable (in M mode). Well at least it is still usable in A mode with that setting...

Thanks, Birna, but it isn't a mechanical issue with the dials. The dials rotate both directions and the detents feel crisp. But if I am trying to adjust ISO/Qual/WB the response is erratic. For example, when trying to ISO it may jump from 400 to 500, or down to 320, or no response at all. Equivalent response with Qual or WB, too.

This sounds more like a contact problem in the encoder or connections to it as Birna suggests.

[Seapy]

I just checked my two remaining D200's and both command dials function as expected on each camera.

Two thoughts, has the camera been stored with or without a battery? Also is the clock battery OK?

I normally store my cameras without main battery.

I normally have the aperture on the rear command dial, more ergonomic for 'A' mode, for me at least.

[Øivind Tøien]

Two thoughts, has the camera been stored with or without a battery? Also is the clock battery OK?

I store mine with a battery inside. I do not want to run down the clock battery, not knowing what type it is and how well it would take zero charge. I try to check on the batteries now and then rotating them, and so far all my 4 batteries still work. The clock battery is OK.

[Seapy]

My expectation and understanding is the main battery makes no contribution to the clock batterie's duties?

OTOH the camera will gradually drain the main battery, even switched off, I don't want to forget and drain a main battery completely, I charge them from time to time and they serve duty in D300S too, which helps keep them from being inactive.

While concerned for Lorne's D200, I am grateful for this issue being raised, again one more nice thing about NG.

[Seapy]

Hmmm, I  may be wrong...

https://www.fredmiranda.com/forum/topic/1143951

Clock may be powered by a capacitor, recharged over two days by inserting a fully charged main battery.  The plot thickens.

[Øivind Tøien]

Well, if it is a super capacitor it does not hurt it to be completely discharged. So no harm done other than getting messed up clock etc.

[Seapy]

Good point. 

[Lorne]

Thanks to everyone for your suggestions. I was hoping for a solution that doesn't require disassembly to resolve but it sounds like a visit to the local repair shop is required.

For what it's worth, my D200 is stored without the battery. I haven't used it much over the past 5 years, but the problem is much worse now.

Again, thanks for your help.

[Øivind Tøien]

I recently had a similar discovery that that the sub-command dial (front) was not working at all on my D200, absolutely no response, complexity dead. Last time it was used (probably many months to a year ago) it worked without a hitch. It has just been sitting there, stored in a nice dry place in my heated cabin together with the rest of my equipment. This does not seem like a symptom of a bad contact on the encoder. I think that would typically lead to a period of unreliable action before it stopped working. There is no  change in the mechanical feeling of the dial. Also does anyone know if those dials use optical encoders or mechanical encoders? I am thinking the problem could be due to aging of some electronic component like a capacitor drying out.

Alternatively I considered whether I had changed a setting that disabled it and forgot about it. However when I switched front and rear command dial in the menus, the aperture that could not be controlled from the front command dial now could be controlled from the rear command dial, while shutter speed became unavailable (in M mode). Well at least it is still usable in A mode with that setting...
This sounds more like a contact problem in the encoder or connections to it as Birna suggests.

Last night after returning from the eclipse, for no apparent reason (perhaps abstinence from handling cameras as all the other ones were warming up in bags), I picked up the D200, and the front wheel now worked without a hitch and still does so! Perhaps it did not like the dry air around here these days on the previous occasion?

[Hugh_3170]

It is a "super capacitor" all right.  And it takes months if not a year or more to discharge in my climate.  The clock does get off a little over time, but not by much - a minute or so.  (Other D200s might vary more than mine over time - without the main battery inserted that is.)

Well, if it is a super capacitor it does not hurt it to be completely discharged. So no harm done other than getting messed up clock etc.

[desmobob]

I had the same problem.
I did a little web research and found it to be a pretty basic device with a disc with printed contacts and some wipers that made contact on the bottom side.  Judging from the photos I looked it, it didn't appear that there were any delicate mechanical parts in the immediate area.  I decided to do a little shade-tree camera repair. :-)

Instead of trying to disassemble the camera, I carefully pried back the rubber directly underneath the dial and directed a quick squirt of Deoxit into the mechanism. BINGO! It now functions perfectly.

If you're not familiar with it, Deoxit is a wonderful thing to have around. I have the "Gold" and "Silver" versions in liquid form and the aerosol version of the "Silver". It has saved the day many times. Conventional hardware store aerosol "contact cleaner" often does more harm than good. Deoxit is safe and effective. It's also great for dirty or corroded battery holders in cameras and flash units which most of us have dealt with at one time or another.

I heard about it from a buddy in the electronics repair biz.

Stay sharp,
Bob