A Question about Nikon TC's

[tommiejeep]

Some years ago I developed a bad habit (normally when shooting sports with multiple cameras) of standing the 300 2.8G vr w/tc1.4 on the hood while shooting another combo.   Not in bad but then I would quickly pick up the 300 2.8 combo by the camera grip.  I found that this loosened the mount screws, particularly on the TC.   OK, I've broken the habit but now, when shooting I find play between the TC and camera mount to the extent that AF does not work.  I always tighten , or check screws, before I go out.   A real pain when the AF fails.  Is there anything that I need to do/check or do I need new TC's?   This is with multiple camera bodies and normally happens after about an hour of shooting.  I also shoot in hot sun most of the time  .

Any advice appreciated 
Cheers,
Tom

[chambeshi]

Hi Tom
I also found this with my TCs. Removed screws carefully - get best drivers - retorque with a fine smear of Loktite on the threads. Sorted :-)

But I also endeavour to minimize strain on the camera + lens mounts with telephotos

kind regards

woody

[tommiejeep]

Thanks Woody, I'll try it on one of my T 1.7's
Cheers,
Tom

[Erik Lund]

Underneath the actual F-mout is a steel spring plate that push the lens or TC tight against the F-mount on the TC identical to the one on the camera housing.
So when you have a TC on the Camera and a lens on the TC there are actually two souch connections with spring plates that are forcing the parts together.
If your careless,,, you put high strain on these plates collapsing them and yes in turn stress on the screws on the TC but definitely also on the camera body, most of the new cameras are plastic underneath the F-mount so  you playing with xxxx amount of lens in fractions of millimeters of screw threads area made out of plastic,,,

Believe me, I held onto the 6mm f/2.8 with an hand whenever possible when I found out about the D810 lack of build quality,,,

Here is the warning:
http://nikongear.net/revival/index.php/topic,3633.msg54172.html#msg54172
Pretty obvious that it's important to use both hands, one on camera and one on lens when handling a camera, where the lens is more heavy than the camera.
Or just lift the lens and the camera will follow

[Erik Lund]

An image says more than a thousand words,,,
http://nikongear.net/revival/index.php/topic,3633.msg54748.html#msg54748


Btw as per the thread the D500 is also plastic, did anyone check D850 or is it also a toy,,,


The TC's are all metal,,, so no risk there.

[Ilkka Nissilä]

I believe the 300/2.8 manual specifically states that you must never lift the lens from the camera, but always support the weight of the lens on its own. The 200/2 and 200-500 manuals include such warnings.

Personally I really like the D810 - it is the camera which required the least fine tuning of all the Nikon cameras that I've had in recent memory. It is also quieter than the current FX models. I sometimes regret trading it in.

The D850 was taken apart here:

https://nikonrumors.com/2017/09/08/nikon-d850-dslr-camera-teardown-more-durable-design-significant-improvements-in-many-areas.aspx/

There seems to be more metal in the front part of the camera than in the D810.

[chambeshi]

Thanks for all these warnings!

In the 2016 disaster with the D810, there was the comment as to what would happen to a D500. Last January my D500 fell off a loose mount on the monopod on my shoulder - camera under 300 f2.8G hit very hard ground. The lens and TC was fine.... Actually, the 3rd party grip seemed to have taken the initial impact, and it was fine apart from minor scratches. The camera was still shooting afterwards but the AF was obviously a mess. The most obvious damage was the cracked LCD but the impacts an the camera overall were grim.

Well the shorter story is this cost me the proverbial bomb and more but Nikon SA fixed the camera to good as new! Took 2 + months as more and more spares had to be ordered. And the workshop in Cape Town here had to send it up to Jo'burg to check alignments etc. I quote the sad reading:

"Repair Details: Quote due to physical damage, upon internal inspection found further damage. To replace TFT monitor, front cover, focus screen, mount, prism box unit, F-F0 substrate, mode dial FPC unit and and eye piece block unit, AF sensor, front body unit and image sensor . Clean and test"

Harsh Lessons! Now I always clip a snaplink to link a safety lanyard to the lens sling or camera peak design loop on ANY tripod fixture.

Underneath the actual F-mout is a steel spring plate that push the lens or TC tight against the F-mount on the TC identical to the one on the camera housing.
So when you have a TC on the Camera and a lens on the TC there are actually two souch connections with spring plates that are forcing the parts together.
If your careless,,, you put high strain on these plates collapsing them and yes in turn stress on the screws on the TC but definitely also on the camera body, most of the new cameras are plastic underneath the F-mount so  you playing with xxxx amount of lens in fractions of millimeters of screw threads area made out of plastic,,,

Believe me, I held onto the 6mm f/2.8 with an hand whenever possible when I found out about the D810 lack of build quality,,,

Here is the warning:
http://nikongear.net/revival/index.php/topic,3633.msg54172.html#msg54172
Pretty obvious that it's important to use both hands, one on camera and one on lens when handling a camera, where the lens is more heavy than the camera.
Or just lift the lens and the camera will follow