Author Topic: Nikon flash fill in  (Read 12776 times)

armando_m

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Re: Nikon flash fill in
« Reply #15 on: July 09, 2015, 20:48:42 »
"elephant technique" I didn't know such thing had such a name

here I was trying to keep equilibrium (not falling on my face) keep  sand off my equipment, holding the flash ahead of the on camera (commander) and enough to the side , looking through the view finder


ambient light was getting dim, my favorite time to use fill in flash , f2.2  1/200 iso 100, flash in TTL left of camera
Armando Morales
D800, Nikon 1 V1, Fuji X-T3

Jakov Minić

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Re: Nikon flash fill in
« Reply #16 on: July 09, 2015, 20:53:10 »
Armando, how do you keep your concentration when examining the light through the view finder?
Free your mind and your ass will follow. - George Clinton
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Confidence is what you have before you understand the problem. - Woody Allen

HCS

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Re: Nikon flash fill in
« Reply #17 on: July 09, 2015, 21:22:19 »
"elephant technique" I didn't know such thing had such a name
...

Made it up myself, IMO it best describes what one is doing when this technique is applied.
Hans Cremers

Jørgen Ramskov

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Re: Nikon flash fill in
« Reply #18 on: July 09, 2015, 21:41:27 »
Thanks for the replies, for the wedding where I've promised to shoot a few pictures I think I will find an assistent to hold the flash if I end up trying to use it. I will most certainly have to practice first. It will have to be improvised as I don't know where the pictures will be taken and even if I did, it's too far away so I have no chance to have a look either. I have given the couple all the warnings I could and recommended going with a professional so they are completely aware that the images might be a complete failure :)

Pocket wizard is cool but not cheap.

Do you use a diffuser (I'm thinking the one that comes with the flash) when using it for fill-in to get a softer light?
Jørgen Ramskov

afx

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Re: Nikon flash fill in
« Reply #19 on: July 09, 2015, 22:51:57 »
Thanks for the replies, for the wedding where I've promised to shoot a few pictures I think I will find an assistent to hold the flash if I end up trying to use it.
If you can bounce it via the ceiling, you can keep it on cam. Just make sure the little bounce card is out to get a bit of fill in the eyes.

Quote
I will most certainly have to practice first.
Absolutely recommended to see how it works...
I don't do it often enough and need to relearn every time ;-(

Quote
Pocket wizard is cool but not cheap.
I use the cheapest model. Really just a trigger. The only reason why I use  PW and not a much cheaper Youngono is compatibility with the gear of my PJ friends.
If you have a bunch of of photographers who use the same flash triggers, interesting things can happen.

Quote
Do you use a diffuser (I'm thinking the one that comes with the flash) when using it for fill-in to get a softer light?

Even when I don't have a ceiling to bounce off, I stay away from the supplied yogurt can. It does not make the light much softer, but only weaker.
There are better bounce diffusers that can be attached, for example:
http://www.honlphoto.com/category-s/1832.htm
http://store.lumiquest.com/bounce-devices/

Jan Anne has a good description here of how to start:
http://nikongear.net/revival/index.php?topic=658.msg5627#msg5627

cheers
afx

Jørgen Ramskov

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Re: Nikon flash fill in
« Reply #20 on: July 10, 2015, 10:02:01 »
I never really used that small bounce card, I will have to test that too. I have no idea whether the images will be taken indoors or outdoors. Perhaps both :)

Jan Anne's structured approach looks quite sensible.
Jørgen Ramskov

afx

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Re: Nikon flash fill in
« Reply #21 on: July 10, 2015, 10:13:12 »
I never really used that small bounce card, I will have to test that too.
If you bounce off the ceiling, a persons head will shadow the eyes. that tiny card will help to mitigate this effect.

cheers
afx

Frank Fremerey

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Re: Nikon flash fill in
« Reply #22 on: July 10, 2015, 10:45:22 »
The small bounce card builtin is great if you only need a sparkle in  the eye.

otherwise I make on myself using the indisoensible LEUCHTKASTENFOLIE ... printing foil with one diffusor side....
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Ilkka Nissilä

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Re: Nikon flash fill in
« Reply #23 on: July 10, 2015, 12:10:16 »
If you bounce off the ceiling, a persons head will shadow the eyes. that tiny card will help to mitigate this effect.

When bouncing, I point the flash head towards the direction where I want the light to come from, essentially creating a large light source in that area. Especially when bouncing from an area behind the photographer, to avoid making the light too soft, it's a good idea to use the maximum focal length setting on the flash head since the light will bounce around in the room providing enough soft fill. If I want the softest fill I point the flash head behind me and slightly towards the ceiling. This may be too soft for a portrait, but it has the advantage that the light will go everywhere, filling shadows, so it works well for impromptu group shots. To get more directionality, I can point the flash to the side or towards a nearby wall. I use some black cellular rubber on the flash head to avoid the flash head being directly visible to the subject, which would create some wrinkle-accentuating (and potentially glare-introducing) hard light. The black material makes sure that all the light that hits the subject is coming from a reflection, leading to the feel of large light sources being used, much as they might be in the studio. It's possible to even create Rembrandt style lighting using an on camera flash bounced from a wall/ceiling with this kind of a black flag. However, it takes some iteration to get it just right.

I typically use flash for portraits mainly, for technical close-ups of small objects, and occasionally for documentary photos of people. I find that flash can be quite intrusive and change the subjects' behavior towards the camera and start posing for it, so I tend to avoid it in order to make a more genuine document of human behavior and social interaction. Sometimes it's necessary, however, to provide some fill light in order to avoid a harsh apperance of the subject. For example on a sailing trip in order to provide some fill light when the subjects were lit by the setting sun, I bounced light from the main sail and with some trial and error I could get enough of it to hit the subjects to create beautiful fill (basically M1/1). I dislike the look of direct flash fill as the natural gradation of brightness in the shadows is lost and skin blemishes are accentuated in the shadows. So I don't do that even in dire emergency. But the use of light is much as everything in photography: a matter of personal judgment and taste.

elsa hoffmann

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Re: Nikon flash fill in
« Reply #24 on: July 10, 2015, 12:16:26 »
Armando - thank you for starting this thread - clearly there is a lot of interest in it.
"You don’t take a photograph – you make it” – Ansel Adams. Thats why I use photoshop.
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afx

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Re: Nikon flash fill in
« Reply #25 on: July 10, 2015, 15:54:09 »
The methods described by Ilkka is pretty cool if the room allows it. Just make sure you don't flash in your face but over your shoulder ;-)

cheers
afx

Frank Fremerey

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Re: Nikon flash fill in
« Reply #26 on: July 10, 2015, 16:44:25 »
Wonderful melancholic tone in the picture on the beach
You are out there. You and your camera. You can shoot or not shoot as you please. Discover the world, Your world. Show it to us. Or we might never see it.

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Fons Baerken

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Re: Nikon flash fill in
« Reply #27 on: July 10, 2015, 17:06:35 »
although later in the day i didnt fill-flash here



highlights in the hairs are hard to correct


here i did fill-flash late in the afternoon light is still bright
settings probably manual 1/128 on sb910 on cam with diffuser




armando_m

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Re: Nikon flash fill in
« Reply #28 on: July 10, 2015, 18:35:48 »
The methods described by Ilkka is pretty cool if the room allows it. Just make sure you don't flash in your face but over your shoulder ;-)

cheers
afx
LOL
it feels amazingly hot when TTL adjusts the flash power bouncing on your face to illuminate a subject 4m away

Armando Morales
D800, Nikon 1 V1, Fuji X-T3