During the time I used Tri-X, basically since I started a professional photography course in the late 70's untill I started shooting digital around 2003, I used/loved it for the high(er) contrast/deeper blacks it could render compared with other 'high' ISO emulsion of that period like eg Ilford HP4 and Agfapan 400
I even enhanced that contrast by the way I processed my films, in particular the way I agitated my film development tanks/ times I shook my development tanks per minute while developing
That also was the reason I didn't switch to the T-Max films which succeeded the older type Kodak emulsions (thankfully not Trix-X) which gave a much ore grayish rendition compared to Tri-X, only occasionally shot on TMax 3200 for the amazing coarse grain it could give when developed in Rodinal
On addition to the modified film processing, I also used Tetenal Eukobrom for my prints (both on older bromide paper like Agfa Record Rapid and later Ilford Multigrade) giving deeper blacks compared to other paper developers
I strive for a similar 'deep blacks' rendition for my b/w digital images, both on my DF and my D800's
I don't have a very sophisticated selection of processing software though, don't have any Adobe products (last version of Photoshop I used was PS 4 back in 1994), tried my hand at Affinity Photo but found it way over my head ( guess I'm kind of a computer illiterate in that respect ) nor have ACR, Capture One etc.
Instead I (still) use Nikon Capture NX2.4.6
However when I process my NEF's (as a rule don't 'batch' process, although I make a 'standard setting' I apply on each individual BEF -from the same series - I open to speed things up) I already decide in advance whether I will convert them into b/w in the the final version, and take that into account when determining contrast and exposure
I then use the Photo Effect/b/w conversion conversion option in NX2 to convert the (color) NEF into b/w
And in addition use the Cyan/Magenta/Yellow color sliders in the Black and White from the Method drop-down, to control how much of each channel contributes to the final B/W image., similar to how color filters were used to do so in the film shooting days (eg red filter will help 'lighten a caucasian skin tone, green filter will give more grey middle tones etc)
Result looks like this