LF Lenses (AM-ED 210mm) on the DSLR and Fuji GFX

[Michael Erlewine]

Here is a relatively inexpensive bellows camera that successfully uses the large-format Nikkor AM-ED 210mm f/5.6 lens lens. The “AM” in the “AM-ED” series (120mm and 210mm) stands for APO-Macro, so that says something about how we might use the lens.

For those who like to experiment, here is the order of the attached parts in this image, starting with the lens.

(1) The lens is the Nikkor AM-ED f/5.6 lens, reversed here to use the 67mm threads on the front of the lens to mount it.

(2) Next is a step-down ring from 67mm > 52mm. Here I used two rings, since I did not have a single step-down of the right size.

(3) Next is the Novoflex Prolei Board, with the LEINIK-NT adapter set into it.

(4) Then comes the Novoflex BALPRO T/S bellows system, reversed because I want to move the rear standard to stack photos properly, and for some (sorry) reason Novoflex chose to make only the front standard movable by gear. So I reverse it.

(5) Then comes the Novoflex APRO board, with the NIK-A adapter inserted in the board.

(6) Then, of course is the Nikon D810.

PLEASE NOTE. I have in my hands the Fotodiox FuJi GFX camera mount to Nikon F-Mount lenses, ready to go on this rig the moment I get my GFX. It will probably work. Worst case, I might have to add a little extension on the camera end.

ALSO: This same Fotodiox adapter will fit on my Cambo Actus camera exactly, and the lens will fit on the Cambo Actus lens-mount Copal #1 that I have coming. PLUS, I will have an extended Actus rail and bellows (450mm), which may or may not work well (vignetting) on the GFX, but it is worth a look..

Bottom line is I want to see how the GFX does with some of these LF lenses.

A shot with bad lighting (night) that shows that this lens is sharp and we know I am catching just the center of it. And another shot of some Gebera, again with bad light.

[Jack Dahlgren]

It looks a bit wonky with all those adapters.

If you are planning to work with LF lenses for macro work I think it would be easier just to mount your camera to the back of something like a Horseman LX. You can find one for about $300 US if you look hard. All geared movements, plenty of reach for high magnification. Built like a rock. Should be simple to make/buy an adapter for the back side.

Note that large format has large image circles, so you may want to trap or mask the back of the lens to prevent stray light bouncing around. Those big negatives had a lot of margin for less than perfect lenses, so you may find that 35mm lenses give you better sharpness/contrast. Of course you are using the center only so that should be the best part of the image.

[Michael Erlewine]

It looks a bit wonky with all those adapters.

If you are planning to work with LF lenses for macro work I think it would be easier just to mount your camera to the back of something like a Horseman LX. You can find one for about $300 US if you look hard. All geared movements, plenty of reach for high magnification. Built like a rock. Should be simple to make/buy an adapter for the back side.

Note that large format has large image circles, so you may want to trap or mask the back of the lens to prevent stray light bouncing around. Those big negatives had a lot of margin for less than perfect lenses, so you may find that 35mm lenses give you better sharpness/contrast. Of course you are using the center only so that should be the best part of the image.

I hear you, but don't agree. Not "wonky," IMO,compared to a Horseman, but light and easy-to-use. I can tighten it up a bit as well. I have a Rollei X-Actus 2 that will work, if I want a 14 lb. rig, which I don't.

For example, I have a Copal #1 board in the mail that will get rid of all the forward adapters completely, leaving only the rear board and its adapter.

[Jack Dahlgren]

I hear you, but don't agree. Not "wonky," IMO,compared to a Horseman, but light and easy-to-use. I can tighten it up a bit as well. I have a Rollei X-Actus 2 that will work, if I want a 14 lb. rig, which I don't.

For example, I have a Copal #1 board in the mail that will get rid of all the forward adapters completely, leaving only the rear board and its adapter.

A lensboard will certainly help. Let us know how it goes!

[Bjørn Rørslett]

The exhibited setup might work for a single exposure, but obviously never will function in a stable manner if the shutter on the lens is to be operated multiple times for stacking photography.

The leverage of a heavy, 850 g, lens well in front of the bellows far exceeds the holding capacity of a few tiny threads in these flimsy step rings. All of a sudden the threads could shear and the lens drop off.

Although experimentation is applauded, some simple physical facts remain. Thus, the lens will project an image circle of 40 cm + thus hundreds of times bigger than what can be captured onto the FX frame. Lens resolving power, albeit superb for large-format photography, is nowhere in the league to what a dedicated FX lens can deliver. The danger of contrast-destroying stray light is obvious.

The proper method of mounting large-format lenses is using a lens board.

[Michael Erlewine]

The exhibited setup might work for a single exposure, but obviously never will function in a stable manner if the shutter on the lens is to be operated multiple times for stacking photography.

The leverage of a heavy, 850 g, lens well in front of the bellows far exceeds the holding capacity of a few tiny threads in these flimsy step rings. All of a sudden the threads could shear and the lens drop off.

Bjørn,
This is funny coming from the "rigger" of all time.

As mentioned, the lens will be mounted on a Copal #1 board, which is very secure. I also have a brass step-ring, should I need it further. The rear board is solid Novoflex, so there really is no worry. The worry may be in that by moving the lens to a board, I don't have enough distance to come into focus. I will have this on a long rail (450mm) soon on another rig.

All I need do is set the aperture on the lens. I don't use the shutter on the lens. Everything else is set in the D810. I updated the image to something better, more like what the lens can produce.

[Bjørn Rørslett]

The "rigger of all time" has learnt a few hard-won lessons ... Amongst them, never trust step rings to carry excessive load.

[Michael Erlewine]

The "rigger of all time" has learnt a few hard-won lessons ... Amongst them, never trust step rings to carry excessive load.

Of course. This is just a proof-of-concept and, as mentioned, all of those adapters up front will be replaced as soon as something more stable arrives. But I did learn that a large lens like that can be used on a relatively small system.

[Mongo]

Michael, it is looking like a very impressive largely self-manufactured setup. Nice job.

[Michael Erlewine]

All my adapters arrived, so I was able to firm up the system. Now we have a more-solid Copal-1 board in the front standard, dispensing with all the various rings and adapters. Because the AM-ED 210mm is so large, I had to add a Nikon PK-13 extension on the camera end, so that I can achieve focus. If I use a smaller lens, like the AM-ED 120mm, I would not need the PK-13.