TC-16A updating

[brent_e]

This has been done before and there are quite a few good step by steps on the web.  Like https://www.foolography.com/diy/modify-tc-16a/, and http://www.cocoon-creations.com/download/TC-16A_mods_comments_Jaco_Mostert.pdf is also good.

Here are the photos of my modification.  Taken with my iPhone, so not the best quality, but convenient for me!

[brent_e]

and some more.

[brent_e]

then, it all carefully goes back together.  That is actually the hardest part as the springs and pins are hard to line up with the contacts. 

It all works well!  I've used it a bit on a 300 2.8 ai, and though it's finicky as the focus range is short, it's still locks into focus.  I'll have to get some more time with it to see if it's actually a useful setup. 

Brent 

[Erik Lund]

Second to last image should show soldering the wire to the spring

BTW keep track of the spongy springs,,,

[brent_e]

I've only got 2 hands, Erik!!!!

 

I'd heard that you can burn the contacts if you do the solider poorly (ie, too hot).  But if you have a sharp point and the right temp, and everything is tinned properly, it takes hardly any heat/time to bond the parts.

You're right.  Those little springs have a mind of their own.  One decided to take some respite in the internals of the TC. 

[Erik Lund]

Exactly my points!

Also the solder/silver can be sucked up into the spring coils,,,

Thanks for posting this fine how to here! It is quite an ingenues way to AF your old MF Nikkors, very cleverly done by the Nikon engineers!

[brent_e]

I guess it made sense for them to design this in that era.  In such a small package, too! 

You're right about the springs.  It wouldn't take much to fill them with solder. 

One thing to remember:  Camera with the ability to choose aperture by the aperture ring must have that custom function enabled, otherwise you get the FEE error.  I haven't tried this on the D80 but suspect I'll need to put something on the TC to engage the aperture feeler button (not sure what the exact name is).



 

[Erik Lund]

Yes you need to add an Aperture Follower Tap, so that the camera know the lens is at minimum aperture value smallest opening,,,

[brent_e]

Thanks for that, Erik,
and for the terminology!  I don't expect to use this on the D80 but may do.  I'll have to come up with a more elegant way to add this tap as what the other sites show is pretty hideous to me! 

[dak]

Yes you need to add an Aperture Follower Tap, so that the camera know the lens is at minimum aperture value smallest opening,,,

The "tap" is only needed for cameras which have an "smallest aperture switch" rather than an "aperture ring feeler".  Those are cameras that are not able to meter correctly using the aperture ring.  Models like the D70, D100, and unfortunately also D7500 (which ditched the aperture ring feeler that the D7200 still had).  They aren't really the best cameras to use with the modified TC-16A anyway.

Those cameras with an aperture ring feeler (D3 to D6, D200-D500, D600-D850, D7000-D7200) only know about "at smallest aperture" by counting the distance in stops from fully open.  That means that for a TC-16A identifying as TC16-A, the aperture has to be set at fully open (which the camera will treat as F1 with respect to matrix metering).  For a TC-16A identifying as a 70-210mm 1:4 (by cutting two traces or pins inside), the aperture ring has to be set 6 stops away from fully open (if fully open means F2.8, you have to set the aperture at F22).  The camera will consider "fully open" as F4 and count from there.

If you cannot do that (like with a mirror lens), you can set the camera controls to leave aperture setting to the aperture ring, and then M and A mode likely work (they won't recognize when you set the aperture ring more than 6 stops away from open I think).