BIF - settings with D4s

[Frode]

Having trouble getting sharp pictures with D4s and AFS 400 2.8 VR when photographing BIF. Portraits get sharp, though, so I'm thinking it's my technique and/or my AF- settings....? Nikon, as far as I can tell, don't offer any suggestions when it comes to BIF (the pro PDF cover different sports, though).

Trying to keep my shutterspeed at or faster than 1/1000 and f/2.8- 4 (20- 30m distance). Golden eagle / goshawk etc. The backgrounds are often relatively distant. Using back focus button. Tripod /or solid base in hide.

Any suggestions regarding technique and settings (group/dynamic, focus- lock on etc)?

[MILLIREHM]

Difficult to make differntial diagnosis what actually might be your problem
Did you check your rig (Tripod/head) whether it is stable enough for the increased requirements of dynamic action? Have you replaced the original tripod foot of the lens with a proper one (RRS or such)?
Did you switch VR off?

[Frode]

Difficult to make differntial diagnosis what actually might be your problem
Did you check your rig (Tripod/head) whether it is stable enough for the increased requirements of dynamic action? Have you replaced the original tripod foot of the lens with a proper one (RRS or such)?
Did you switch VR off?

Thank you for your reply 🙂.

Yes, the tripod/ballhead or gimbal set up should be stabil enough.

I've replaced the original tripod foot with a Wimberley.

Very seldom use VR, and when I do, it's never with faster shutterspeed than 1/500 (portraits).
 

[MFloyd]

BIF: "Birds In Flight" I guess. There are a some very reputable BIF photographers around. I can only share my experience as racing car sport photographer. I have the habit to use VR throughout almost everything I shoot; with speeds going from 1/60 (speed blur) through 1/8000 (freeze). My pictures are very sharp, with negligible fallout. I would say: if it doesn't good, it doesn't harm. This is my personal experience; I know, some photographers are more reluctant to use VR. The particular circumstances are: focus: 300, 400 and 600mm (all Nikkor); body: D4s and D5.

I'm not sure if this might help.

[MILLIREHM]

Thank you for your reply 🙂.

Yes, the tripod/ballhead or gimbal set up should be stabil enough.

I've replaced the original tripod foot with a Wimberley.

Very seldom use VR, and when I do, it's never with faster shutterspeed than 1/500 (portraits).

Well then there is the tripod foot left
When I replaced the nikon native foot of my AF-S 600/4 VR against a Wimberley replacement it turned a (despite stellar optics) nearly unusable  lens (2/3rds of the shots unsharp) into a usable one

[Ethan]

Notwithstanding operator error or tethering limitations.

And as you are achieving critical focus on portraits which rules out camera operating errors but leaves a question mark on the lens Fine Tuning.

Couple of non sharp sample pics will help if you can post.

Most of the time BIF shooting failures come down to camera settings.

Let me know the following:

1- All the picture is not sharp or the desired focus area is not sharp?

2- Do you shoot BIF with fixed or tracking movement?

3- What parameters are you using for:

- a3
- b5
- AF-Area Mode

[Frode]

BIF: "Birds In Flight" I guess. There are a some very reputable BIF photographers around. I can only share my experience as racing car sport photographer. I have the habit to use VR throughout almost everything I shoot; with speeds going from 1/60 (speed blur) through 1/8000 (freeze). My pictures are very sharp, with negligible fallout. I would say: if it doesn't good, it doesn't harm. This is my personal experience; I know, some photographers are more reluctant to use VR. The particular circumstances are: focus: 300, 400 and 600mm (all Nikkor); body: D4s and D5.

I'm not sure if this might help.

Thanks, MFloyd!

Hmm, maybe I should test it, then. I`ve followed Nikon`s advice regarding 1/500...

[Frode]

Notwithstanding operator error or tethering limitations.

And as you are achieving critical focus on portraits which rules out camera operating errors but leaves a question mark on the lens Fine Tuning.

Couple of non sharp sample pics will help if you can post.

Most of the time BIF shooting failures come down to camera settings.

Let me know the following:

1- All the picture is not sharp or the desired focus area is not sharp?

2- Do you shoot BIF with fixed or tracking movement?

3- What parameters are you using for:

- a3
- b5
- AF-Area Mode

Thanks, Ethan!

1. sometimes all pictures are blurred, sometimes the desired focus area are not sharp.

2. Both, but almost always on tripod/hide. Most often tracking movement, I will say.

3. a3:tried off, 1,2 and 3 / b5: on / area mode: afc + group or dynamic 9 (not so often 21).

Oh, and yes, I`ve got a feeling this is a combination of bad technique and not optimal settings used... :-).

I'll try to post a couple of pictures tomorrow.

[PedroS]

BIF is one of the most critical aspects of bird photography.

I have seen some people in a hurry of taking BIF and don't take enough care and touch a lot the focus ring of the lens, you know what that lead...
If we exclude all gear issues, you need a lot of practice. Practice following the bird and shoot during the panning and DON'T STOP panning after the shots. Follow-through is critical here.

Now the gear
Lens
1. AF tuning (portraits are closer than BIF, so try to AF tune at the expected distance (I do mine at around 50M))
2. With the 400 f2.8 use at least f5.6 until you reach good in focus picture, than start to go up (in speed) as you get better or respective to wich effect you are looking for
3. Upper than 1/500 VR off. Ok, it should always be off, because I recommend to shoot at around 1/1000 (start at day light to exclude other issues like slower speeds and open fs)
4. Don't lock the lens foot, but use it snug
5. Don't touch the lens, use only one hand in the camera body
Camera
1. AF-button
2. AF-C
3. Focus priority (to begin and learn, later you should have shooter priority)
4. Focus group (dinamic later on)
5. Focus on hold slow (to fight busy backgrounds)
6. High speed shots (use short burst 1~2 seconds)
BIF approach
1. Spot the bird
2. Start to follow it
3. Understnad where it should go
4. Start against blue sky (exposure ~+1)
5. Shoot and enjoy

[Peter Connan]

I have found that birds that change direction ralidly confuse VR. I switch it off for BIF.

Agree with f5.6, otherwise fhe DOF is too nardow to hadle changes in approach speed due to direction changes.

I would also recommend faster shutter speeds if possible. I find my keeper rate definately goes up as the shutter speed does, although i shoot smaller birds than you.

[Frode]

BIF is one of the most critical aspects of bird photography.

I have seen some people in a hurry of taking BIF and don't take enough care and touch a lot the focus ring of the lens, you know what that lead...
If we exclude all gear issues, you need a lot of practice. Practice following the bird and shoot during the panning and DON'T STOP panning after the shots. Follow-through is critical here.

Now the gear
Lens
1. AF tuning (portraits are closer than BIF, so try to AF tune at the expected distance (I do mine at around 50M))
2. With the 400 f2.8 use at least f5.6 until you reach good in focus picture, than start to go up (in speed) as you get better or respective to wich effect you are looking for
3. Upper than 1/500 VR off. Ok, it should always be off, because I recommend to shoot at around 1/1000 (start at day light to exclude other issues like slower speeds and open fs)
4. Don't lock the lens foot, but use it snug
5. Don't touch the lens, use only one hand in the camera body
Camera
1. AF-button
2. AF-C
3. Focus priority (to begin and learn, later you should have shooter priority)
4. Focus group (dinamic later on)
5. Focus on hold slow (to fight busy backgrounds)
6. High speed shots (use short burst 1~2 seconds)
BIF approach
1. Spot the bird
2. Start to follow it
3. Understnad where it should go
4. Start against blue sky (exposure ~+1)
5. Shoot and enjoy

Wow, thank you, PedroS 😀!

I'll follow your steps, and take it from there😃👍!

Regarding f/- number; at such distances, isn't the DOF relatively big even at f/2.8? Of course, blending down to f/5.6 will give me more.

[Frode]

I have found that birds that change direction ralidly confuse VR. I switch it off for BIF.

Agree with f5.6, otherwise fhe DOF is too nardow to hadle changes in approach speed due to direction changes.

I would also recommend faster shutter speeds if possible. I find my keeper rate definately goes up as the shutter speed does, although i shoot smaller birds than you.

Thanks, Peter!

I try to keep shutterspeed at 1/1600 or faster, but have 1/1000 as a minimum.

Hmm, looks like f/5.6 is the place to start 🙂.

Yes, I'll keep my VR off, then 😊.

[Peter Connan]

Good luck, and don't forget to show us the results!

[John G]

Hi Frode,
May I suggest a change from a multi point Dynamic range AF to a single point AF.
If you are going to capture a sharp image, this is the AF setting that will do it.
When you have a image you are pleased with, then return to your Dynamic Range AF, starting at the lowest amount of focus points, and working through to the higher amount of focus points.
You may witness at times your AF does not respond, if this happens return to single point and attempt a refocus, the AF will work immediately.
Losing your AF when using multi point dynamic range usually means there is a lack of contrast in the frame and the AF system, shows a shortcoming.
To maximise your dynamic range AF and have a regular success with a sharp image, a good contrast between subject and back drop is important.
I have experienced a non reactive Dynamic range AF using a 400mm f2.8G and a 600mm f4G

[MILLIREHM]

also had in mind to suggest single point AF, sometimes this is more useful than the multi point+ "overkill"