I always use the factory Nikon (and Fujifilm) "Daylight" WB setting---without added adjustments--- for existing light photography.
If I get strange off-color results, I know that the existing light itself was strange and off-color. When shooting around large amounts of green plants, I have come to expect "green pollution" or "green bounce". If there is open shade with a blue sky providing the some or all of the illumination, I expect blue pollution.
Of course, with Nikon raw files and a non-Nikon raw converter, the color hues are plastic and adjustable anyway. Calibrating the raw converter with a color checker helps but is not required , since I'm going to be manipulating the color to my own taste anyway.
Over time, this hopefully allows me to learn something about which existing light situations might have subtle color shifts and influences that the everyday human eye easily ignores.