This subject has been touched upon before. From what Mongo has read, most seem to believe that MF lenses are not really as good on 35mm bodies as their 35mm counterparts which were intended for those bodies.
This may largely be true but there is some useful real estate between being “not really as good” and what may be pleasant and useable anyway.
Mongo has a number of 645 Pentax lenses which he likes a great deal and which are not being used on the 645 film body (which remains unused). This prompted him to look into how useful or desirable they would be to use on the Nikon 35mm bodies.
First, the adapter. Purchased from China in reasonably good quality for between $35 and $65 dollars (cannot recall exactly how much)(SEE image #1)
Although several lenses fit and work nicely on the nikon bodies, the 120mm f4 macro is the one Mongo most uses (equivalent to 75mm). It look , feel and woks great; especially on the D4s (See images #2 and #3). A terry towelling wrist band (which mongo sometimes uses to protect lenses) was used to momentary hold the lens up while taking these two images. There is also a 150mm which equates to 90mm for portrait work (not pictured).
The lens is sufficiently sharp and yet has a nice colour and mellow rendering. Some quick sample images from Mongo’s garden all hand held and most at very low shutter speeds. If Mongo had not been lazy he would have used a tripod. Processed as Mongo would process any other of his images. Most images have the original full sized version followed by a 100% crop of same.
PROS:- very nice quality lens, nice colour and rendering generally, lovely handling in conjunction with the camera body, generous focusing ring with beautiful smooth buttery action, works with focus indicator of the camera to f 9.5, the metadata is correct (except for f stop number).
CONS:- need an adapter, there is no tripod mount on the lens but it is only just small enough to use the camera’s mount for the tripod, camera focus indicator only works to f 9.5 - alternatively , focus wide open and then step down the aperture before taking the image, light meter does not connect directly so there is a little bit of fiddling to set this up at first before shooting.