Author Topic: Help please! ...finding the right diopter correction value!  (Read 11500 times)

Frank Fremerey

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Re: Help please! ...finding the right diopter correction value!
« Reply #15 on: July 26, 2016, 08:32:13 »
Thank you all. It would help to know which glue Nikon uses in these 19 mm screw in diopters.
Then it should be easy to find a solution dissolving the  glue  in a non destructive way.
if I then know the exact diameter of the lens I can order a prefabricated one and glue it in.
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David H. Hartman

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Re: Help please! ...finding the right diopter correction value!
« Reply #16 on: July 26, 2016, 10:02:04 »
Feank,

I shoot through my glasses for several reasons. I have astigmatism in both eyes. The left is better than the right. I get astigmatism correction through the distance area of my glasses. At 65 I can no longer read the LCD on the top of a dSLR. I must use the bifocal area to view the LCD and other controls. I used to have no problems focusing an FE2, FM2n, F3 or F5. I may need a correction eyepiece now. I use the built in diopter correct in my D800 and D300s.

Have you tried shooting through glasses? It might help. Also check the standard eyepiece as I believe the glass is held in with a steel "C" ring (not sure what to call it). I believe it can be fetched out with the eye end of a fine needle. If I used a diopter with my glasses I'd have to replace the clear glass in the standard eyepiece with the diopter lens. You might do the same. It's something you might try.

Best,

Dave
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Les Olson

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Re: Help please! ...finding the right diopter correction value!
« Reply #17 on: July 26, 2016, 10:24:22 »
Frank,

You need a correction lens for an optical viewing distance of 1.0 meter (39.37") for a Nikon or Nikkormat from the Nikon F to the Nikon F5 and FM/FE family to the FM3a. The F and F2 and FM/FE to the FM3a all use the same size. The finders on all of these are without a correction lens -1. If you needed a custom made 0.0 diopter correction you would add a +1.0 diopter (not Nikon's +1) as -1 +1 = 0.

If your ophthalmologist or optometrist told you that you need a +1.5 diopter correction to view an object at 1.0 meter you would need a generic +2.5 diopter eyepiece (+2.5 -1 = +1.5) not Nikon's 1.0 or 2.0. Nikon's eyepieces are marked with the combined diopter as in -1 (body) +1 eyepiece is marked 0.

If you call your ophthalmologist or optometrist he/she can calculate the correction you need for 1 meter. Then you factor in the standard Nikon -1 diopter if having a custom eyepiece made or ignore it if buying a Nikon eyepiece. The fly in the ointment is astigmatism. If your persecution includes astigmatism it will include cylinder if I remember correctly. If it's slight it can probably be ignored. If it's strong it's a problem. The astigmatism corrected eyepiece will have to be aligned correctly and it will need to swivel 90 degree for horizontal and vertical. Marty Forscher did a modification for a Nikon F2 or F3 for a swiveling eyepiece for astigmatism. I think there is a link here at NikonGeard.net showing a camera with this modification.



There is a -1 lens in the viewfinder that creates an enlarged virtual image of the ground glass screen which appears to be at 1m.  If you can focus at 1m, the virtual image is in focus. 

The piece of glass you can take off and replace is not the -1 lens, although, colloquially, we call it the viewfinder (and Nikon's description is confusing, which will surprise no one who has ever read a Nikon manual).  In the case of the FM2/3 that piece you can take off and replace is plain glass.  In most Nikons the piece you can take off and replace includes adjustable elements, but that makes no difference in this context. 

You do not subtract -1 from your prescription to get the corrective lens power. 

Spectacle prescriptions for "close" focus use reading distance - 0.3m or so.  Two diopters long-sightedness means the closest the person can focus is 2m, so a +2 lens enables them to focus at zero distance.  A +1 lens enables them to focus at 1m.  Nikon's table is correct, and they do not mis-describe their corrective lenses. 

Astigmatism should not be the problem, because Frank is complaining about focusing, which is done in the centre of the image.  Astigmatism would affect the sharpness of the metering indicators at the periphery, but reading the +/0/- indicator on the FM2 does not require it to be sharp.

Frank Fremerey

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Re: Help please! ...finding the right diopter correction value!
« Reply #18 on: July 26, 2016, 10:27:55 »
I cannot see anything with glasses except for the very near field.

My right eye is too bad to use for photography so I had to switch to left eye shooting.

I can see anything beyond one meter sharp and clear.

So shooting with glasses seems impractical. I need to get a feel of the scene before I decide how to frame.
That means glasses off. Then I would have to put the glasses on, take the camera, shoot, get rid of the glaases
again. No. Better adapt the camera. The F6 might be better for me than the FM2 though.
You are out there. You and your camera. You can shoot or not shoot as you please. Discover the world, Your world. Show it to us. Or we might never see it.

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David H. Hartman

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Re: Help please! ...finding the right diopter correction value!
« Reply #19 on: July 26, 2016, 10:55:29 »
The retaining "thing" is probably best called a retaining spring. It not really a "C" but almost a complete circle. The FM/FE family of cameras use a retaining spring in the standard eyepiece with rubber protection for glasses. The Nikon F3HP (DE-3) and F5 (DP-30) standard eye piece also use a retaining spring. The F3 (DE-2) does not use a retaining spring. I'm not sure who the glass is held in. The rubber eye glass protector could be use with a diopter eyepiece on the DE-2. It would simply slip over.

For the way I focus, anywhere on the ground glass of a B/E type focus screen astigmatism is an issue.

Dave
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David H. Hartman

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Re: Help please! ...finding the right diopter correction value!
« Reply #20 on: July 26, 2016, 11:02:04 »
You do not subtract -1 from your prescription to get the corrective lens power.

If I can think at this hour this is correct if buying a Nikon diopter eyepiece. I'd have to search and don't know if I'd find it but my father used a "0" diopter eyepiece which if you looked through it one could see it as a slightly positive diopter, i.e. +1. I don't think I've ever owned a corrective eyepiece as I never needed one in the past. I remember filling down an edge on my father's eyepiece so it would fit a Nikkormat FTn. Later he owned a Nikon FE2. I might find a "0" diopter eyepiece for his FE2.

OK, I'm going to make a hot drink and go to bed. It's 2:01 AM here in California.

Best,

Dave
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Frank Fremerey

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Re: Help please! ...finding the right diopter correction value!
« Reply #21 on: July 26, 2016, 14:00:52 »
Yes, you are right, the standard eyepiece has a retaining spring. Very good. Wee can use that as a screw in frame.

The ZERO is +1 (see link above) and I got it, the PLUS ONE is +2. Both do not work for me, neither does the standard eye piece.

SOOOOO ... now I still have to find the strength I need.
You are out there. You and your camera. You can shoot or not shoot as you please. Discover the world, Your world. Show it to us. Or we might never see it.

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Frank Fremerey

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Re: Help please! ...finding the right diopter correction value!
« Reply #22 on: July 26, 2016, 14:11:39 »
Nikon D3 Diopter Adjustment range -3 to +1

12 clicks over 4 diopter values means 1/3 split (best in red)

-3 -2,66 -2,33
-2 -1,66 -1,33
-1 -0,66 -0,33
0 +0,33 +0,66
+1
You are out there. You and your camera. You can shoot or not shoot as you please. Discover the world, Your world. Show it to us. Or we might never see it.

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Frank Fremerey

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Re: Help please! ...finding the right diopter correction value!
« Reply #23 on: July 26, 2016, 14:17:12 »
Nikon D600 Diopter Adjustment range -3 to +1

16 clicks over 4 diopter values means 1/4 split (best in red)

-3 -2,75 -2,5 -2,25
-2 -1,75 -1,5 -1,25
-1 -0,75 -0,5 -0,25
0 +0,25 +0,5 +0,75
+1
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Frank Fremerey

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Re: Help please! ...finding the right diopter correction value!
« Reply #24 on: July 26, 2016, 14:21:19 »
Nikon D500 Diopter Adjustment range -2 to +1

6 clicks over 3 diopter values means 1/2 split (best in red)

-2 -1,5 -1 -0,5 0 +0,5 1
You are out there. You and your camera. You can shoot or not shoot as you please. Discover the world, Your world. Show it to us. Or we might never see it.

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Frank Fremerey

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Re: Help please! ...finding the right diopter correction value!
« Reply #25 on: July 26, 2016, 14:25:19 »
OK. Now we got -1 as the right value, and that fits well together with the fact that -1 is the FM-2n diopter setting without correction (better without the standard eyepiece) and that is the best for me, while still not good as in: "I can easily and safely acquire focus"

What next?
You are out there. You and your camera. You can shoot or not shoot as you please. Discover the world, Your world. Show it to us. Or we might never see it.

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simsurace

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Re: Help please! ...finding the right diopter correction value!
« Reply #26 on: July 26, 2016, 15:13:29 »
For me the right diopter setting is often fuzzy, something that changes from day to day and I cannot tell to a one click precision where the best setting is. Is it more accurate for you?
Simone Carlo Surace
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Frank Fremerey

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Re: Help please! ...finding the right diopter correction value!
« Reply #27 on: July 26, 2016, 15:33:52 »
For me the right diopter setting is often fuzzy, something that changes from day to day and I cannot tell to a one click precision where the best setting is. Is it more accurate for you?

In the early morning it is a bit fuzzy sometimes, quite stable during the day. With the finer diopter settings it is not perfect to say wich is the best. Sometimes it can be one click more or less.
You are out there. You and your camera. You can shoot or not shoot as you please. Discover the world, Your world. Show it to us. Or we might never see it.

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David H. Hartman

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Re: Help please! ...finding the right diopter correction value!
« Reply #28 on: July 26, 2016, 20:48:07 »
The FM2n and FE2 have a 0.86x finder magnification with a 50mm lens focused to infinity. This is as easy as it gets to see to focus. One can use the standard K2, B2 or E2 screen or the darker FE series or brighter FM3a series of focus screens. Exposure compensation is needed to switch between the K/B/E series and the K2/B2/E2 series. I don't know about the FM3a screens.

The FM3a offers 0.83x and K3, B3 and E3 screens.

The F3 (DE-2) offers 0.80x with more eye relief (higher eyepoint thought not "HP") and the advantage of the older F/F2 type darker screens or the F3 Red Dot screens which are brighter.

The Nikon F3HP (DE-3) offers a 0.75x finder magnification with higher eyepoint than the F3. Critical focus is a bit harder for me because of the lower finder magnification. I prefer the F3 (DE-2) even though I ware glasses.

I believe the eyepoint is in the same order as the magnification with the highest magnification offering the lowest eyepoint.

---

If one can't tell which of two clicks on a dSLR is best this may be because the best diopter is something in between.

---

Changing visual ability from day to day? I'd see an ophthalmologist to find out if there is an underlying problem with the eye that needs medical treatment. I would not worry about the first few minutes after waking up.

Dave
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Frank Fremerey

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Re: Help please! ...finding the right diopter correction value!
« Reply #29 on: July 26, 2016, 23:34:44 »
I can see the red LEDs are unsharp. Always.
You are out there. You and your camera. You can shoot or not shoot as you please. Discover the world, Your world. Show it to us. Or we might never see it.

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