How to get non-AI Nikkors converted?

[f4-fan]

If you don't want to do it yourself, take the aperture ring off as Asle said, and send it to Marcel Van Engen - he is a member here (MarcelvanEngen). His website is here:

https://magnimopus.com/services/

He can do a professional AI conversion which preserves the original appearance of the lens. While home AI conversions may be functional (assuming you file the aperture ring correctly) many are quite ugly and may reduce the resale value.

Thats just the information, I need 
I will contact him...
Thanks

[MarcelvanEngen]

Thank you Roland.
And thanks Ralf for reaching out to me. Glad you are not opting for the hack, cut, file method yourself.
These lenses are beautifully made and to see some of the ugly diy jobs just 

[f4-fan]

Thank you Roland.
And thanks Ralf for reaching out to me. Glad you are not opting for the hack, cut, file method yourself.
These lenses are beautifully made and to see some of the ugly diy jobs just 

On the one hand, I don't have suitable tools, on the other hand, I would be afraid that iron shavings would come onto the lenses.

I am very excited to see how well the adapted Micro Auto works on the D850.
Will it be better than the AF Micro 55mm 2.8 ? (a cheap Alternative)

On the Canon 5D MK 2+3 I had extremly sharp macros with the Micro Auto and a cheap chinese adapter...

[Roland Vink]

Be aware that Micro-Nikkor Auto 1:3,5 f=55mm no 190605 is a "compensating" lens. It was designed for use with an external light meter at a time when cameras did not have through-the-lens (TTL) light meters. When the lens is stopped down to f/5 and smaller, as the lens is focused close, the aperture opens to compensate for the light that would usually be lost due to extension (bellows factor). At the 1:2 setting the aperture opens a full stop compared to infinity. Compensation is obviously not possible when the lens is used at wider apertures since the lens cannot open wider than full aperture as the lens is focused closer.

Compensation was very convenient for cameras without TTL metering since they didn't need to adjust the shutter speed or aperture when focusing at different distances.  However, for cameras with TTL meters, you need to counter-compensate since the TTL meter automatically compensates for light lost due to extension. That is why in the late 1960s when TTL metering was common, the original 55 micro was replaced with the Micro-Nikkor-P without compensation. If you intend to use TTL meters, the non-compensating versions are much more convenient.

Will it be better than the AF 55 micro? The original 55 micro has a reputation for being very good at close range (not so good at infinity), but the newer lens has much better coatings for improved contrast, and it has floating elements so it should perform well at any distance. Manual handling of the AF lens is perhaps not so nice due to the narrow plastic focus ring.

[Birna Rørslett]

--- Manual handling of the AF lens is perhaps not so nice due to the narrow plastic focus ring.

The understatement of the day

The AF 55 is a rattling affair with no love lost to it.

[f4-fan]

Be aware that Micro-Nikkor Auto 1:3,5 f=55mm no 190605 is a "compensating" lens. It was designed for use with an external light meter at a time when cameras did not have through-the-lens (TTL) light meters. When the lens is stopped down to f/5 and smaller, as the lens is focused close, the aperture opens to compensate for the light that would usually be lost due to extension (bellows factor). At the 1:2 setting the aperture opens a full stop compared to infinity. Compensation is obviously not possible when the lens is used at wider apertures since the lens cannot open wider than full aperture as the lens is focused closer.

Compensation was very convenient for cameras without TTL metering since they didn't need to adjust the shutter speed or aperture when focusing at different distances.  However, for cameras with TTL meters, you need to counter-compensate since the TTL meter automatically compensates for light lost due to extension. That is why in the late 1960s when TTL metering was common, the original 55 micro was replaced with the Micro-Nikkor-P without compensation. If you intend to use TTL meters, the non-compensating versions are much more convenient.

Will it be better than the AF 55 micro? The original 55 micro has a reputation for being very good at close range (not so good at infinity), but the newer lens has much better coatings for improved contrast, and it has floating elements so it should perform well at any distance. Manual handling of the AF lens is perhaps not so nice due to the narrow plastic focus ring.

Thanks for your hints. Compensation of this lens should not be so problematic, because  I can use bracketing. I will never use this lens for high speed photography 

By the way: One can use it also for 'rather sharp' portraits (Micro-Nikkor Auto 1:3,5 f=55mm with Canon 5D MK 3):




 

[Birna Rørslett]

It's not difficult to remove the internal cam that does the compensation of aperture ... Once removed, you can use the lens in a straightforward manner.

[f4-fan]

If you don't want to do it yourself, take the aperture ring off as Asle said, and send it to Marcel Van Engen - he is a member here (MarcelvanEngen). His website is here:

https://magnimopus.com/services/

He can do a professional AI conversion which preserves the original appearance of the lens. While home AI conversions may be functional (assuming you file the aperture ring correctly) many are quite ugly and may reduce the resale value.

Marcel has now modified my Micro Nikkor Auto 55mm f/3.5 very elegant and I can use it on my D850 with metering. Thanks a lot. Marcels Service gives a very good value and is less expensive than the freight-costs from Germany to GB (:-). And – also important: Marcel is extremely friendly and competent. From now on I will send every old lens, I can get, to him for modification ...
 

[f4-fan]

It's not difficult to remove the internal cam that does the compensation of aperture ... Once removed, you can use the lens in a straightforward manner.

Is it possible, to  modify the M-Extension Ring for my modified Micro Nikkor Auto? I don't want to buy the PK-13 because it is quite expensive in Germany.

Marcel van Engeren wrote:

"The operation of the lens with the extension remains the same as it was. The M extension tube does not rotate with the movement of the aperture.
An extension tube like the PK13 will actually follow the aperture ring setting of the lens and communicates with the camera tab.
This might be something to look for. And the best thing is that the meter tab of the PK13 falls into the modification slot I made on your lens so it works even in combi with the PK13 extension tube!"

[Birna Rørslett]

The M rings will only allow stopping down, no aperture follower there. Thus PK-13 is to be preferred. Buy them second-hand, as I do, for a reasonable price. For example this offer:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Nikon-PK-13-Extension-Tube-F-Mount-Excellent-from-Tokyo-Japan/183767574393?hash=item2ac966a779:g:S2UAAOSwxXJckdrw

[Matthew Currie]

If you happen to luck into them, you might also look at the older Vivitar sets.  Vivitar sold two versions of a three-part set, with 12, 20, and 36 mm. tubes.  Unlike current ones, the old ones were nicely made and all metal.  I have two sets, both of which work well.  The( Pre-AI)  AT-3 won't take an AI lens on the 12 mm. ring, but will on the others.  The skirt safely allows mounting on an AI camera, though of course you must stop down meter.   The  AT-3AI works fine on all cameras but can't readily accept rabbit ears, so stop down metering on a pre-AI camera.  Both have nice smooth automatic aperture mechanisms, and I have routinely used the full 68 mm. on my 200/4Q lens for bug chasing, with no ill effects.

If you can get the Nikon ones cheaply enough, and especially if the PK 13 is all you need,  I wouldn't bother to hunt too hard for the Vivitars, but if you bump into them they're worth a look.

[f4-fan]

If you happen to luck into them, you might also look at the older Vivitar sets.  Vivitar sold two versions of a three-part set, with 12, 20, and 36 mm. tubes.  Unlike current ones, the old ones were nicely made and all metal.  I have two sets, both of which work well.  The( Pre-AI)  AT-3 won't take an AI lens on the 12 mm. ring, but will on the others.  The skirt safely allows mounting on an AI camera, though of course you must stop down meter.   The  AT-3AI works fine on all cameras but can't readily accept rabbit ears, so stop down metering on a pre-AI camera.  Both have nice smooth automatic aperture mechanisms, and I have routinely used the full 68 mm. on my 200/4Q lens for bug chasing, with no ill effects.

If you can get the Nikon ones cheaply enough, and especially if the PK 13 is all you need,  I wouldn't bother to hunt too hard for the Vivitars, but if you bump into them they're worth a look.

Even cheaper: I simply unscrewed the little compensation-mechanism on the old but mechanical perfect M-Extension Ring and taped the little screw holes... Now I can use it and change the aperture.

[Steven Paulsen]

Long insomnia, but in a wonderful mood/zone, I finally Ai'd my old 20mm/f4. (It was in like new condition & I didn't want to mess it up.)
(I also didn't want to mess up the Ai tab on my DF, in a careless, quick lens change.)

One of the 3 lens barrel screws wouldn't budge, but loosening the other two, I was ale to carefully remove the lens mount. It took a half hour using a plain flat file, then I trim/squared the edges using fine, optician/jeweler's files. If I were going to do this for show, I only really did a practical mod & put the thing back together. (No polish/no paint, no viewfinder f stops.)
If I pull it apart again, I'll take pics and post.
Most short primes are fairly easy.

[remlap]

Hi I am looking for someone to do a 105mm Pre AI f2.5 to work with my Nikon FM3A, preferably in the UK.

My main wish is to have a professional finish painted black. I have a lovely lens on the way and to have the bare metal surface showing would annoy me a lot.

I know for a fact I don't have steady enough hands to take apart a lens let alone file down a metal ring.

Thanks.

[MEPER]

Maybe you can setup a rig like "Mikeno62"?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=45zGsGrNNRQ

He told me that when first it is setup it is quite easy to do.
I have an old relation with him dated back to when the Danish Nikon club where active (not existing anymore).
At that time he got interested in DIY "lens / camera work". He turned out to be quite a talent.