[Theme] Df (D750)+ Rodenstock Heligon 100mm f/1.6

[Bjørn J]

Not sure about the current production. They are (were) mainly used in X-ray machines and image intensifier setups.

Do note there are many of these 100 mm lenses with different specifications, and also very different optical capabilities used on a modern camera.

The specification to look for is 100 mm f/1.6 Rodenstock Heligon. There are various models of these as well, but I think all should behave quite similar.

Keep away from the f/1.5 model as it is much less useful due to its design.

A final point, that applies to all Heligons, is that they are very heavy because of the large high-refractive glass elements inside.

Heavy, yes! My 100mm/1,6 mounted in the 18-70mm shell, weighs 804 grams. Some of that weight is epoxy, though 

[Jan Anne]

Found a few more from 2013, taken behind Bjørn's cottage on the Norwegian coast with Jakov's lens, don't remember if an extension ring was used.

Not a Flower

D800E with Rodenstock Heligon 100/1.6

Yellow & Blue

D800E with Rodenstock Heligon 100/1.6

[Bjørn J]

I shure would like one of those Heligons.

I found only one Heligon 100/1,6 on ebay now, and the price was ridiculous - USD 330.-
I paid USD 69.- each for the two I bought, 2-3 years ago.

[Mikes]

Order one on eBay and send it with some money to Erik aka Dr Lens for modding

Jakov bought Erik's copy with a Nikon mount and Erik made mine exactly to spec with an exchangeable mount for multi camera use so he knows all the ins and outs of this lens. Plus it would be a nice topic for the modding section.

You can also do it yourself, with a bit of patience and a Dremel. The Rodenstock does not have any means to mount it - the camera end is a smooth tube 43mm in diameter.

Just order a T-ring to Nikon adapter (or any other camera) over Ebay ( or http://www.cncsupplyinc.com). This has a 42mm female thread that you will need to grind down by >0.5mm all round so that it fits firmly over the end of the lens. Then glue the threaded end of the adapter over the lens using a strong metal to metal adhesive such as JB Weld.

I bought a cheap 62mm rubber lens hood and affixed it to the front of the lens (no thread) using black electricians tape for outdoor use and to protect the exposed front element. The lens is front heavy, so you might want to support it - I use a 65mm Burzynski lens collar and foot that I already had for another lens.
 

[Mikes]

Just a couple more for good measure....

[Jakov Minić]

Jan Anne,
I remember that clothespin as if you took the shot yesterday. I love that shot!!!
You must have used the extension ring.
I am so happy I am not the only that likes blurry pictures

[Björn Carlén]

You can also do it yourself, with a bit of patience and a Dremel. The Rodenstock does not have any means to mount it - the camera end is a smooth tube 43mm in diameter.

Just order a T-ring to Nikon adapter (or any other camera) over Ebay ( or http://www.cncsupplyinc.com). This has a 42mm female thread that you will need to grind down by >0.5mm all round so that it fits firmly over the end of the lens. Then glue the threaded end of the adapter over the lens using a strong metal to metal adhesive such as JB Weld.

I bought a cheap 62mm rubber lens hood and affixed it to the front of the lens (no thread) using black electricians tape for outdoor use and to protect the exposed front element. The lens is front heavy, so you might want to support it - I use a 65mm Burzynski lens collar and foot that I already had for another lens.

Thanks for the information!
Maybe when I've retired I'll have time for that.
Very interesting, though.

[Bjørn Rørslett]

These Heligons are really simple to modify to accept Nikon F mount. See the attached picture of my 100/1.6 Heligon.

Add 52 mm thread by securing a Cokin filter holder adapter with 52 mm male threads. Depending on the actual lens, you can epoxy it in place, or drill a few screws to keep it in position.

Thereafter, just add K-rings (K4, K5) to give the adequate working distance and magnification, and end with the K2 to provide the "F" bayonet. Not including the curing time for the epoxy, a 3 minutes job at most ...

One can of course use a focusing helicoid instead of the K-ring(s), but remember most such units will not have sufficient clearance inside to accept the thick rear end of the lens.

[Bjørn Rørslett]

A few examples of the 100 mm f/1.6 on various Nikons over the years.

[Bjørn Rørslett]

Thanks to the implemented CPU, the 100/1.6 even works flawlessly with my small 1 Nikons (1V1, AW1, etc.).

[Bjørn J]

These Heligons are really simple to modify to accept Nikon F mount. See the attached picture of my 100/1.6 Heligon.

Add 52 mm thread by securing a Cokin filter holder adapter with 52 mm male threads. Depending on the actual lens, you can epoxy it in place, or drill a few screws to keep it in position.

Thereafter, just add K-rings (K4, K5) to give the adequate working distance and magnification, and end with the K2 to provide the "F" bayonet. Not including the curing time for the epoxy, a 3 minutes job at most ...

One can of course use a focusing helicoid instead of the K-ring(s), but remember most such units will not have sufficient clearance inside to accept the thick rear end of the lens.

Bjørn R, that looks like a flexible solution. I have the K-rings, but I can't find that particular Cokin filter holder adapter on ebay. This one doesn't look like the one you have:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-52mm-Ring-adapter-for-Cokin-P-Series-Filter-Holder-/250692237962?hash=item3a5e6bfa8a

[Bjørn Rørslett]

Probably you should seek for the Cokin A series instead?

The P adapter will work, but adds unnecessary girth and thereby handling awkwardness to the modified lens. One could of course Dremel down the Cokin, but as shown below, not much would be gained in overall slimness as long as the K-rings are deployed.

Below is the 100/1.6 in the "minimum" configuration with K4, K5, and K2 added. This combination of extension provides a bayonet just clearing the rear element so is about the shortest you can have with an "F" mount camera. For m43 or similar, you need something that will accommodate the  naked rear end within it to allow focusing farther away, perhaps even to infinity if the contraption is short enough.

(this is from the first stage with the 100/1.6 so the CPU hasn't been added yet. It will fit nicely inside the K2, though)

[Björn Carlén]

A few examples of the 100 mm f/1.6 on various Nikons over the years.

Equisetum hyemale or Rough Horsetail?

[Bjørn J]

Probably you should seek for the Cokin A series instead?

The P adapter will work, but adds unnecessary girth and thereby handling awkwardness to the modified lens. One could of course Dremel down the Cokin, but as shown below, not much would be gained in overall slimness as long as the K-rings are deployed.

Below is the 100/1.6 in the "minimum" configuration with K4, K5, and K2 added. This combination of extension provides a bayonet just clearing the rear element so is about the shortest you can have with an "F" mount camera. For m43 or similar, you need something that will accommodate the  naked rear end within it to allow focusing farther away, perhaps even to infinity if the contraption is short enough.

(this is from the first stage with the 100/1.6 so the CPU hasn't been added yet. It will fit nicely inside the K2, though)

I like that rubber grip you have added to the lens - makes it easier to handle I suppose.

[Bjørn Rørslett]

Equisetum hyemale or Rough Horsetail?

Equisetum fluviatile Water horsetail. The capture is in IR.