NikonGear'23
Gear Talk => Camera Talk => Topic started by: armando_m on July 07, 2015, 22:12:18
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How do you use flash ?
Here are some examples of what I do when shooting with flash
I have an SB700 (and a SB600 that needs repairing)
The flashes are usually shoot in remote mode - at least that is how I used them in the examples I'll share here
To trigger the flash I use the on camera flash in commander mode only
The remote flash I have configured as TTL
I do not like using the flash in manual mode, it restricts the distance from the flash to the model, if she takes 2 steps in either direction I like the flash to adjust as needed
I have the flash configuration menu accessible from the quick menu
Flash EV is set via the flash config menu, why ? just because I'm use to doing that, the button for flash and the rear control wheel can also be used to set the flash compensation
I have also used the SB800 and SB900 , so far the SB700 is the easiest to configure, for the others I need to read the manual
When shooting I'll measure ambient light and fill in with the remote flash - usually at -1 EV
The camera exposure is set in manual mode
I have used remote flash only with AF-S lenses, I understand it uses the focus distance to calculate flash power
1.
(http://armando-m.smugmug.com/People/Move-tour-Tequila-Cuervo/i-fXfgJMf/0/L/_DSC7679-Edit-L.jpg)
Measured ambient, flash about 3m left of the model using a soft box, coming from the same direction of ambient,
It's important to keep IR window on the flash visible to the on camera commander flash
1/125 f/4 ISO 1000
flash EV 0
2. using high speed sync
(http://armando-m.smugmug.com/People/Laguna-Seca-2015/i-knhn6kT/0/L/_DSC9354-Edit-L.jpg)
Ambient iso 100 f1.8 1/4000
Flash left of camera, about 2m away from the model,
When using high speed sync lowers the power significantly, so the flash has to be close, if the power was insufficient the flash will beep 3 times
the flash IR window was in the shade, if the sun hits it, operation becomes sporadic
3. way more evident fill flash
(http://armando-m.smugmug.com/People/Jane-B/i-6JLqjTv/0/L/_DSC0172-Edit-L.jpg)
1/250 f3.2 iso 800
Do you use flash ? how do you use it ?
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Give me a studio light - I can make magic.
Give me a speed-light - and I turn into a moron.
Of course having flash off camera makes a world of difference - which I usually don't do with a speed-light.
Armando - I am going to make a point of using your info (and Gary's on the other thread) and put this into practice.
It's no good just reading about it here.
thanks for posting this
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Awesome images Armando.
Personally I haven't used a flash in years but do use Hi CRI flashlights to brighten a subject or scene, light paint, etc.
Here's an example:
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7327/9825939285_c76282fff4_o.jpg)
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I use flash for conference jobs where the only light source is downlights with ugly shadows.
Practically it is often sufficient to glue a diffusor foil in front on the builtin flash. BUT: If I shoot wide angle or want a proper distribution of light across the frame I use the SB800 with a huge diffusor or indirectly. I like to have flash use that is not recognizable as flash use. I feel fillin is not as good in Auto Mode as I can do it with fixed ISO, t, f plus Manual flash power output.
Here is a very old D70 shot, quite possible JPEG ooc
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I use flash in my small softbox for flower portraits (where strobes are too powerful). In manual mode.
I use flash to even out the contrast in outdoor, esp. summer, people shots (even though this is less necessary with D3s and now D810). In TTL mode, using compensation to massage the light to my liking.
I use flash to put "sparkle" in people's eyes in outdoor/daylight scenarios. Manual or TTL, depends on lighting situation.
I typically underdo the flash in outdoor scenarios and then lift to taste when processing the Raw. I don't like pulling up shadows all the way (wen not using flash), but a little goes a long way in this case.
I sometimes use flash bare for flower portraits to mimic a setting sun. In manual mode.
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Hans. Yes. Right. Compensate shadows in blazing sun.
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Awesome images Armando.
Personally I haven't used a flash in years but do use Hi CRI flashlights to brighten a subject or scene, light paint, etc.
Light painting in that scale !
When i have tried I end up with a very bright foreground and a dark background
Also I end up with very uneven lightning
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I use flash for conference jobs where the only light source is downlights with ugly shadows.
Practically it is often sufficient to glue a diffusor foil in front on the builtin flash. BUT: If I shoot wide angle or want a proper distribution of light across the frame I use the SB800 with a huge diffusor or indirectly. I like to have flash use that is not recognizable as flash use. I feel fillin is not as good in Auto Mode as I can do it with fixed ISO, t, f plus Manual flash power output.
Here is a very old D70 shot, quite possible JPEG ooc
Excellent point Frank, I never combine Auto-ISO with flash
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Hans. Yes. Right. Compensate shadows in blazing sun.
Well, it seems I'm capable of reading a manual as I got commander mode working using the flash on my D750 as master and SB-900 as remote.
When do you use TTL and when do you use manual mode? (sorry about the newbie question)
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When do you use TTL and when do you use manual mode? (sorry about the newbie question)
It's been ages but if I remember correctly my defaults flash settings were:
- Manual exposure to control the background (try first without the flash)
- Flash on TTL to let the camera determine subject exposure
- Flash at second curtain
- Starting point with flash exposure compensation was usually -1.67EV to make things blend a little bit
Later I used an extension cable to connect the small travel SB400 flash with the D3s to have the flash fire off centre, downside of that setup was the lack of flash EV compensation buttons on the camera and flash (one of my gripes of the D3s) but you shouldn't have that problem with the D750 nor the SB900.
Then you can do silly fun stuff like this :)
(https://farm7.staticflickr.com/6045/6231546064_0a36f78403_o.jpg)
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When do you use TTL and when do you use manual mode? (sorry about the newbie question)
TTL only with on cam flash and potentially changing light. The cam is still manual though, set to capture the ambient.
But most of the time I prefer one or more off cam flashes triggered via pocket wizard or just SU-4 mode (one gets triggered via radio, the rest then follow via the light trigger.
cheers
afx
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Jørgen: detaching your flash is not always practical. When I use two hands for the camera I rapidly run out of hands
to hold a flash. So the classic style with a cable, flash on a rail is not that dumb at all.
The little stand that comes with the SBX00 series needs some glue tape support in busy environments otherwise your
flash finds a new owner sooner than you might wish for. If you like the direction of the light sources on location you
can support them CLS wise by placing SU4 aware flashes or wirelessly triggered flashes in unsuspiciouly looking lamps.
I know one guy working for locations. He uses many cheapo flashes glued to ceilings. They even have mains connection
Or additional battery packs for stamnia. This way you can freeze dancers in a busy disco without even bein recognized
as a photographer. One would need huge ladders to steal these
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These are some lovely images Armando!
(And yours Jan Anne!)
At work I use the flash a lot, manual mode f/5.6 1/125, auto ISO, and I bounce the flash off the ceiling, I don't know how but it always works for me.
I am yet to master the flash commander and the flash units set off camera. Armando and Jan Anne inspired me now!
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Good advice here on how to get started with flash in general and off-camera in particular.
But, important lesson i learned ... the starting point is just that ... a starting point. One other good starting point is everything in auto, camera and flash. But, then it's difficult to adjust to your liking, because you'd not know which decisions have been taken by the camera/flash combo.
I'd like to start with camera in Aperture mode, usually somewhere around F5.6 and the flash on TTL. Then adjust up or down from the result i get. Whether or not you're shooting on front or rear curtain is more for artistic effect than for flash exposure (see JA's good result above).
I'd also suggest to read a book (or two) about flash, Joe McNally and Kirk Tuck come to mind. McNally stresses that when the camera is in matrix metering mode, there isn't much to say on how the flash compensation will react. I find that to be true (but it's not all over the place), so you'd have to shoot and adjust, even when the camera itself is in manual exposure mode.
The motto is: keep trying
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Jørgen: detaching your flash is not always practical. When I use two hands for the camera I rapidly run out of hands
to hold a flash. So the classic style with a cable, flash on a rail is not that dumb at all.
...
Perhaps a good suggestion is to try the elephant technique. I've seen it demonstrated by McNally, but is probably an old trick.
You hold the camera with one hand (presumably your right hand) and "curl" your other arm underneath your camera, holding the flash away from your camera, while still supporting your camera with it.
Of course, flash on a rail or bracket is not a dumb idea at all, much more comfortable but also more expensive.
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"elephant technique" I didn't know such thing had such a name
here I was trying to keep equilibrium (not falling on my face) keep sand off my equipment, holding the flash ahead of the on camera (commander) and enough to the side , looking through the view finder
(http://armando-m.smugmug.com/People/E--studio/i-58CrbzH/0/L/_DSC8077-L.jpg)
ambient light was getting dim, my favorite time to use fill in flash , f2.2 1/200 iso 100, flash in TTL left of camera
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Armando, how do you keep your concentration when examining the light through the view finder?
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"elephant technique" I didn't know such thing had such a name
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Made it up myself, IMO it best describes what one is doing when this technique is applied.
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Thanks for the replies, for the wedding where I've promised to shoot a few pictures I think I will find an assistent to hold the flash if I end up trying to use it. I will most certainly have to practice first. It will have to be improvised as I don't know where the pictures will be taken and even if I did, it's too far away so I have no chance to have a look either. I have given the couple all the warnings I could and recommended going with a professional so they are completely aware that the images might be a complete failure :)
Pocket wizard is cool but not cheap.
Do you use a diffuser (I'm thinking the one that comes with the flash) when using it for fill-in to get a softer light?
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Thanks for the replies, for the wedding where I've promised to shoot a few pictures I think I will find an assistent to hold the flash if I end up trying to use it.
If you can bounce it via the ceiling, you can keep it on cam. Just make sure the little bounce card is out to get a bit of fill in the eyes.
I will most certainly have to practice first.
Absolutely recommended to see how it works...
I don't do it often enough and need to relearn every time ;-(
Pocket wizard is cool but not cheap.
I use the cheapest model. Really just a trigger. The only reason why I use PW and not a much cheaper Youngono is compatibility with the gear of my PJ friends.
If you have a bunch of of photographers who use the same flash triggers, interesting things can happen.
Do you use a diffuser (I'm thinking the one that comes with the flash) when using it for fill-in to get a softer light?
Even when I don't have a ceiling to bounce off, I stay away from the supplied yogurt can. It does not make the light much softer, but only weaker.
There are better bounce diffusers that can be attached, for example:
http://www.honlphoto.com/category-s/1832.htm
http://store.lumiquest.com/bounce-devices/
Jan Anne has a good description here of how to start:
http://nikongear.net/revival/index.php?topic=658.msg5627#msg5627
cheers
afx
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I never really used that small bounce card, I will have to test that too. I have no idea whether the images will be taken indoors or outdoors. Perhaps both :)
Jan Anne's structured approach looks quite sensible.
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I never really used that small bounce card, I will have to test that too.
If you bounce off the ceiling, a persons head will shadow the eyes. that tiny card will help to mitigate this effect.
cheers
afx
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The small bounce card builtin is great if you only need a sparkle in the eye.
otherwise I make on myself using the indisoensible LEUCHTKASTENFOLIE ... printing foil with one diffusor side....
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If you bounce off the ceiling, a persons head will shadow the eyes. that tiny card will help to mitigate this effect.
When bouncing, I point the flash head towards the direction where I want the light to come from, essentially creating a large light source in that area. Especially when bouncing from an area behind the photographer, to avoid making the light too soft, it's a good idea to use the maximum focal length setting on the flash head since the light will bounce around in the room providing enough soft fill. If I want the softest fill I point the flash head behind me and slightly towards the ceiling. This may be too soft for a portrait, but it has the advantage that the light will go everywhere, filling shadows, so it works well for impromptu group shots. To get more directionality, I can point the flash to the side or towards a nearby wall. I use some black cellular rubber on the flash head to avoid the flash head being directly visible to the subject, which would create some wrinkle-accentuating (and potentially glare-introducing) hard light. The black material makes sure that all the light that hits the subject is coming from a reflection, leading to the feel of large light sources being used, much as they might be in the studio. It's possible to even create Rembrandt style lighting using an on camera flash bounced from a wall/ceiling with this kind of a black flag. However, it takes some iteration to get it just right.
I typically use flash for portraits mainly, for technical close-ups of small objects, and occasionally for documentary photos of people. I find that flash can be quite intrusive and change the subjects' behavior towards the camera and start posing for it, so I tend to avoid it in order to make a more genuine document of human behavior and social interaction. Sometimes it's necessary, however, to provide some fill light in order to avoid a harsh apperance of the subject. For example on a sailing trip in order to provide some fill light when the subjects were lit by the setting sun, I bounced light from the main sail and with some trial and error I could get enough of it to hit the subjects to create beautiful fill (basically M1/1). I dislike the look of direct flash fill as the natural gradation of brightness in the shadows is lost and skin blemishes are accentuated in the shadows. So I don't do that even in dire emergency. But the use of light is much as everything in photography: a matter of personal judgment and taste.
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Armando - thank you for starting this thread - clearly there is a lot of interest in it.
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The methods described by Ilkka is pretty cool if the room allows it. Just make sure you don't flash in your face but over your shoulder ;-)
cheers
afx
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Wonderful melancholic tone in the picture on the beach
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although later in the day i didnt fill-flash here
(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3793/19392948899_c42c6dd522_b.jpg)
highlights in the hairs are hard to correct
here i did fill-flash late in the afternoon light is still bright
settings probably manual 1/128 on sb910 on cam with diffuser
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/426/19391546930_f432e34a3c_b.jpg)
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The methods described by Ilkka is pretty cool if the room allows it. Just make sure you don't flash in your face but over your shoulder ;-)
cheers
afx
LOL
it feels amazingly hot when TTL adjusts the flash power bouncing on your face to illuminate a subject 4m away