NikonGear'23
Gear Talk => Lens Talk => Topic started by: fafield on July 19, 2016, 21:45:03
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What is the proper orientation for storing Nikkor lenses? Lens mount up? Lens mount down? Lens on its side? I'm asking about day-to-day storage though I suspect the answer is independent of storage duration.
Obviously, gear needs protection from too warm temperatures. I believe I take rigorously good care for my gear but I've now had two different MF lenses with sticky lubricant on the iris blades. (50mm f/1.4 AIS and Micro-Nikkor 55mm f/2.8 AIS (a lens known to be problematic in this regard.)) But in thinking about care for my gear, I'm not sure I know the answer to this question, even after 30+ years of Nikon ownership. Recommendations welcomed!
Frank Field
The Sea Ranch, California
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I always store the lenses standing face down. Use proper caps at either end.
Followed this practice since the mid '60s. No problems encountered.
Do keep in mind lenses need to be used once in a while to keep everything up and running. Focusing can get stiff if the focusing ring is not exercised now and then.
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It is additionally recommended to avoid storage in concentrated high humidity...something not common in California, unless you live at the seashore. Free air flow, not in sealed cases or bags. I live two miles from the Pacific Ocean, in a typical Southern California dry climate. I keep my modest collection of lenses in a metal drawer in a Craftsman roll around tool chest, which keeps dust off (an issue where I live) but is not sealed to air flow.
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California and places like NZ and Japan are earthquake prone.
If storing 'face down' in such places, then you should provide some stabilisation or protection for the lens for when/if a quake occurs. A long tele taking a sideways tumble could cause damage to the lens itself and anything near to it.
Alternatively if stored on their sides, they could be turned from time to time (like wine bottles in a rack).
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I store lenses face down, bayonet up with caps. May lenses have lens hoods I seldom remove. I'm fond of Tupperware #G tumbler caps on those hoods that accept them, HN-3, HS-8, HS-14, etc.
Dave who also wears a hat.
I keep the sun out of my lenses, why not my eyes.
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California and places like NZ and Japan are earthquake prone.
If storing 'face down' in such places, then you should provide some stabilisation or protection for the lens for when/if a quake occurs. A long tele taking a sideways tumble could cause damage to the lens itself and anything near to it.
Alternatively if stored on their sides, they could be turned from time to time (like wine bottles in a rack).
The 100, 135, and 180 stand on end, but the 300/4 lies on it's side. No biggie...In an big earthquake, my lenses will jump around and bump into each other. It would be ideal to have a egg crate grid of corrugated plastic or other shock absorbing material separating the lenses from each other.
My biggest concern in a big earthquake is not the rapid, jagged vibration that only lasts for a minute or two (or three or four in an extreme case), but that if the building were to partially collapse, the equipment is protected from falling wood beams or debris by being inside a strongly built cabinet or other storage.
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I keep mine in a Peli Case, front down. Each in a padded compartment.
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My unusual, rather expensive UV-capable lenses are stored together with a plastic container of desiccant which can be renewed in the microwave when it becomes too saturated with moisture. The desiccant crystals change from deep blue to pale pink to indicate this. The plastic container is about 3" x 2".
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Thanks to all for your helpful responses. I largely store lenses with the lens mount up. Will continue to do so based on your advise and I do think I will dig out my desiccants, warm them in the oven for a few hours and try to keep them stored with my lenses.
Having said that, I'm actually not terribly worried about humidity in California even along the coast of northern California. The dew point here rarely exceeds 13C / 55F and spends most of the year below 10C / 50F. I lived on the east coast of the U.S. for a long time and we frequently had summer dew points of 20C / 68F or warmer -- literal steam baths!
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Hi, Frank,
Here in Tokyo, where it is very humid during the summer, I try not to "store" my cameras and lenses. I just put them on the shelf with the rear caps down and put some silicone cloth on them to protect them from the dust by keeping them in the natural air flow. There is no particular reason for using the "silicone" cloth: I just have some which were given gratis from the retailers when I bought the equipments.
That said, my way of storing the equipment would not be recommended for the people living close to the sea, as Keith mentioned.
I didn't have any long lenses, and my lenses didn't fall over when we had that severe one in Fukushima in 2010.
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I recall that when I was last in Singapore that I saw at a large photographic outlet temperature and humidity controlled cabinets on sale that were specifically designed for the storage of photographic equipment and items such as precision instruments. At first glance they looked similar to those refrigerators that have glass doors.
I will try and dig out a brochure that I kept on these and will scan some details for a future posting. Bear with me - I am doing tax returns at the moment and nothing seems to add up correctly. Time for some sleep me thinks!
Thanks to all for your helpful responses. I largely store lenses with the lens mount up. Will continue to do so based on your advise and I do think I will dig out my desiccants, warm them in the oven for a few hours and try to keep them stored with my lenses.
Having said that, I'm actually not terribly worried about humidity in California even along the coast of northern California. The dew point here rarely exceeds 13C / 55F and spends most of the year below 10C / 50F. I lived on the east coast of the U.S. for a long time and we frequently had summer dew points of 20C / 68F or warmer -- literal steam baths!
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Avoid dark storage places, as the absence of light (UV) combined with humidity is the ideal breeding environment for fungus.
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Use your lens(es) once in a while. That will do all involved components good.
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Thanks Almass - these are indeed the kind of glass doored storage cabinets that I saw in Singapore.
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Avoid dark storage places, as the absence of light (UV) combined with humidity is the ideal breeding environment for fungus.
All lenses are stored in dark places, unless you remove the lens caps.
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I think, but can not demonstrate, that humidity is the greater risk factor for fungus growth.
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This might be the (untested) solution http://nikonrumors.com/2016/05/02/weekly-nikon-news-flash-365.aspx/
https://youtu.be/FDj5HgNlvGg (https://youtu.be/FDj5HgNlvGg)
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Keith that is also my understanding.
The UV components in sunlight can however be very helpful in killing off the spores that may in turn give rise to fungal growth in the event that the right growing conditions of temperature and humidity are present.
It is a sad reality that there are plenty of fungal spores floating around inside most homes and buildings, but they only give touble if the growing conditions are right.
I think, but can not demonstrate, that humidity is the greater risk factor for fungus growth.
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Keith that is also my understanding.
The UV components in sunlight can however be very helpful in killing off the spores that may in turn give rise to fungal growth in the event that the right growing conditions of temperature and humidity are present.
It is a sad reality that there are plenty of fungal spores floating around inside most homes and buildings, but they only give touble if the growing conditions are right.
My dream lens-containing device has regulated temp/humidity and bright lights built-in...maybe those dangerous short-wave UV-sterilization bulbs. Kill all fungus! (in lenses)
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When I lived in Florida on the Gulf coast and did bird shooting in the marshes and mangroves I kept my lenses in my acoustic guitar humidor cabinet.
Another good thing that I learned from a seasoned photojournalist if you plan on keeping your lens stored for a long time close the aperture blades to the highest number.
I keeps the blades away from possible oil migration to the blades as well as keeping the spring tension at it's lowest.
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When I lived in Florida on the Gulf coast and did bird shooting in the marshes and mangroves I kept my lenses in my acoustic guitar humidor cabinet.
Another good thing that I learned from a seasoned photojournalist if you plan on keeping your lens stored for a long time close the aperture blades to the highest number.
I keeps the blades away from possible oil migration to the blades as well as keeping the spring tension at it's lowest.
Wise advice - thank you. I have been doing this for AI,AIS and D lenses for the spring tension - set to highest f-stop. And n v Good to know about reducing risk of oil on the blades :-)
kind regards
Woody
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The spring tension idea makes sense, yet I have never seen an old Nikon lens that had a tired or weakened aperture spring. Has anyone ever seen this?
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As a ex reptile keeper, it would seem if a cabinet offering a controlled environment was required, the reptile market offers many reliable products to support environment control, A home built wooden box, with a glass front or top, a insulation could be used to aid temperature regulation.
A 12 Volt Ceramic Heat Pad, Thermostat and a Hygrometer for reading humidity will be a very cheap to build solution. A used professional Herpetology model, could be purchased at a fair price. These are today usually a moulded insulated case, with sliding glass access panels, Heating and Humidity controls are usually built in as a 12 Volt System. A trolley could be used to mount it on, to make it a bit more transportable. How the lens could be made secure in the case should not create too much of a problem.
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I think, but can not demonstrate, that humidity is the greater risk factor for fungus growth.
Should be as for many years now all my lenses are kept in safes with controlled humidity and never had a fungus issue.
The safes are in total darkness when not opened, of course.
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In the U.K. where it's not so humid, would storing lenses in aluminium flight cases/foam with some silicon packets be a problem/encourage fungus growth in your experience?
Having young kids running around, putting lenses out on shelves might just be too much temptation for them and too much crying from me
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The problem is well known and under control in Singapore, where heat and humidity are the daily norm.
People here keep their sensitive or valuable equipment in dry cabinets: lenses, small electronics, jewelry...
The best ones are like wine cellars and control temperature and humidity, the basic ones are simple boxes with silica gel pads. I have several of the latter and humidity is constant around 40% when outside it is around 80%. Based on what I hear, it should be good enough.
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I keep my gear in a 600-700 lb Remington Gun Safe (http://www.cabelas.com/product/Remington174-25-and-48-Gun-Safes/1546446.uts), with a closet dehumidifier (https://www.walmart.com/ip/airBOSS-Closet-Dehumidifier/155510787) on each shelf.
1. No one is going to steal them;
2. No moisture will affect them;
3. If there is an earthquake, they're not going anywhere;
4. If there's a fire, the safe is rated to withstand it (most cases).
All lenses 135mm and below stored face down, caps-on, as described by others. Long lenses sideways.
IMO, there is no better way to store your gear.
PS: When I get my 600mm FL ED, it will be stored in its case, standing up in the rifle section of the safe. There is plenty of room, as right now only a tripod and monopod occupy that section.
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I put lenses wherever I can find a space for them. Which means they are scattered all over the house(s). No problems with fungus as far as I can see for a period of > 40 years.
Most lenses are stored "bottom up", by the way. Don't bother about aperture settings and suchlike, I think it's more important a lens is being used for its intended purpose once in a while. A task which of course might turn into a challenge if the lens volume is big enough :(
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... I think it's more important a lens is being used for its intended purpose once in a while. ...
I agree with those who say use the lens and if that isn't happening then with those who say to exercise the lens. I think Bjørn mentioned lenses getting stiff above from lack of use. This is probably fairly common. If the lube isn't normal or stiff it may very slowly flow. Using normally or exercising may redistribute the lubricant and keep it from getting where it's not supposed to be like the aperture blades.
Excessive heat hasn't been mentioned. Most know not to keep a camera or lenses in the trunk or cabin of a car or truck but when on vacation or trying to save money by not using air conditioning heat may affect lubricants, flow and cause lube contamination of the aperture blades. Much of Southern California is hot and dry much of the year with cool moist winters. Houses with forced heat and air conditioning keeps the temperatures moderate and humidity low.
Foam cases: there are different kinds of foam. They can look the same, e.g. charcoal gray. Some can off gas and fog lenses. I remember no specifics materials used. Cheep cases and unknown sources may result in using the wrong foam and damage.
My 2 cents is...
1) Store most lenses face down with caps. Dividers that hold lenses in a drawer can help.
2) Telephotos if they can't be stored face down turn regularly.
3) Avoid high humidity (not usually a problem for me, inland So. California).
4) Avoid high temperatures. Maybe set air conditioning at 78*F (25.5*C) and pay the electric bill rather than lens repair. Cool only one area if heat and air is installed for this option.
5) Use approved foam in cases. Avoid any storage that may off gas.
I'm sure there are more conditions to use or avoid. Got to run.
Dave Hartman
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"Most lenses are stored "bottom up""
"Store most lenses face down with caps"
What is the advantage of storing lenses this way vs storing the lens "top up"?
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Stability.
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Stability.
Okay, you are talking about the bigger lenses. :D
As I mostly owned smaller Nikkors with 52mm filter threads, I haven't acquired the habit of storing the lenses face down. Due to the design of the Nikon lens cap, it is a bit more stable to store the lenses with 52mm filter threads face up.
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That depends on the generation of the front cap design. The older ones are flat-faced so will ensure stability even front down.
In order to utilise storage space more efficiently, the smaller lenses go either bottom up or down depending on the shape of the barrels. If stored with hoods on, front down is again the better approach with the mentioned caveat of space optimisation. I'd guess around 70% of the smaller lenses are stored bottom up and >90% of the bigger ones likewise.
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That depends on the generation of the front cap design. The older ones are flat-faced so will ensure stability even front down.
Yes, but, so far as I've observed, the latest lens cap is the most stable. Any older versions are less stable because of the proudly embossed Nikon logo. 8)
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Make dividers in a storage drawer out of stips of cardboard. Allow for padding the sides as cardboard is abrasive. Allow for lenses with 72mm filter threads. Plastic shopping bags or strip shredded paper can cushion the bottle. They can shake, rattle and roll but hope your dog gone soul they don't bounce so hard that they hit the drawer above.
Cupboard (cup board)? Plan on the domino effect. :(
Dave
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If you are storing the lens face down, it doesn't need a cap. I store them face down with the hood/shade attached. Longer lenses(for me, a 300/4, 50-135/3.5 and 80-200/4) lie sideways because the space isn't tall enough.
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Make dividers in a storage drawer out of stips of cardboard. Allow for padding the sides as cardboard is abrasive. Allow for lenses with 72mm filter threads. Plastic shopping bags or strip shredded paper can cushion the bottle. They can shake, rattle and roll but hope your dog gone soul they don't bounce so hard that they hit the drawer above.
Cupboard (cup board)? Plan on the domino effect. :(
Dave
It occurs to me that corrugated plastic ('Corplast' or 'Coroplast' in the USA) would be cleaner and more elegant that cardboard, and could be used as a shock-absorbing floor as well.
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The cardboard or paper-based material absorbs moisture, so I don't think it is suitable for the use as part of the storage of the optics.
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The cardboard or paper-based material absorbs moisture, so I don't think it is suitable for the use as part of the storage of the optics.
OK, plastic sheet dividers for humid environments. I've seen plastic formed like corrugated cardboard. That should do nicely. Plastic bags from the hardware store if the PC types have outlawed grocery bags.
These divider frameworks are like box dividers for wine or other spirits but not ghosts. The material can be cut with an X-Acto knife. Soft plastic Coroplast is assumed.
Dave who is more than willing to adapt.
[Two new sentence added after reading pluton's post above.]
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It occurs to me that corrugated plastic ('Corplast' or 'Coroplast' in the USA) would be cleaner and more elegant that cardboard, and could be used as a shock-absorbing floor as well.
That's it!
+1
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The soft Coroplast would not be abrasive like cardboard, another plus. :)
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That's it!
+1
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The soft Coroplast would not be abrasive like cardboard, another plus. :)
+1 :)
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I remember mentioning about this a few years ago, store lenses with their iris set to the smallest or half-way.
This is an old-wive's tale but now I know why :o :o :o
it is to prevent the iris' spring from being tense while you store it. it may be OK if you leave it like that for a day but if this was stored like this for years or even decades, the spring will lose its tension. this is very apparent on iris designs that rely on a strong spring to actuate ::) this will also vary depending on the iris design (depending on lens)
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I'll bet most of my lenses are set to f/5.6. Who knows why?
Dave
Caution: you might give away your age.
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this problem manifested itself on very early Nikkors with 9-bladed designs :o :o :o
it happened on my lens and another member's lens ::)
I also noticed that early Nikkors for the F-mount have sloppy iris construction meaning that the machining was not precise and people had to make adjustments. I noticed this on several lenses from the very early days of the F-mount.
https://richardhaw.com/2017/04/17/repair-auto-nikkor-p-105mm-f2-5/
(https://richardhaw.files.wordpress.com/2017/06/img_5131.jpg?w=535)
and here is an example. I saw some sloppier examples that I don't have online but I will show later when I have the chance. for example, holes were drilled on incorrect places and the correct holes were drilled just beside the wrong one. Not making things up, they really exist!
Looks like Nikon was learning how to make automatic apertures and these were the result of that.
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this problem manifested itself on very early Nikkors with 9-bladed designs :o :o :o
it happened on my lens and another member's lens ::)
I also noticed that early Nikkors for the F-mount have sloppy iris construction meaning that the machining was not precise and people had to make adjustments. I noticed this on several lenses from the very early days of the F-mount.
https://richardhaw.com/2017/04/17/repair-auto-nikkor-p-105mm-f2-5/ (https://richardhaw.com/2017/04/17/repair-auto-nikkor-p-105mm-f2-5/)
(https://richardhaw.files.wordpress.com/2017/06/img_5131.jpg?w=535)
and here is an example. I saw some sloppier examples that I don't have online but I will show later when I have the chance. for example, holes were drilled on incorrect places and the correct holes were drilled just beside the wrong one. Not making things up, they really exist!
Looks like Nikon was learning how to make automatic apertures and these were the result of that.
This is a later repair/hack job, not an out of the factory product. IMHO
The slit itself is not the intended end-stop for that leaver.
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This is a later repair/hack job, not an out of the factory product. IMHO
The slit itself is not the intended end-stop for that leaver.
it is on this particular lens unfortunately (well, at least very likely)
If I am not mistaken, this is the same lens with the corrected screw holes that I described :o :o :o
I was shocked. saw the same thing on some Nikkor-H 5cm lenses from the early years but not this "brutal"
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But this slit can be 10mm longer without any effect on functionality,,, to me it looks like someone deliberately wanted to change the way the lens operate disregard how it was designed.
This will take a huge amount of time to mill out, inserting and adjusting, and in the wrong place,,, not a Nikon assembly line job,,,
Why would it be a factory repair/adjustment?
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But this slit can be 10mm longer without any effect on functionality,,, to me it looks like someone deliberately wanted to change the way the lens operate disregard how it was designed.
This will take a huge amount of time to mill out, inserting and adjusting, and in the wrong place,,, not a Nikon assembly line job,,,
Why would it be a factory repair/adjustment?
the slots of the plate inside were adjusted,too. when I opened the lens, there was no evidence that it was worked on by another person. The screw heads were clean without the slightest marks and the lacquers were still in-place as far as I recall :o :o :o adding to that, this is not the only sample where I found similar adjustments that were made. as far as I recall, this regulates the maximum size of the iris and not the stop-down lever mechanism. anyway, ill just leave it at that.
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I think it's more important a lens is being used for its intended purpose once in a while. A task which of course might turn into a challenge if the lens volume is big enough :(
Which is why, for me personally, I don't have any lenses 'just to collect.'
I either have studio macro lenses (that I use), field macro lenses (that I use), as well as field landscape/telephoto lenses (that I use) ... all manual, save one ... and that's pretty much it.
Am considering a collection of AF lenses (3 to be exact) to be used for situations where manual lenses might cause a missed shot (mainly evening/night situations photographing people), where AF will just nail it quickly.
Other than that, I have no use for owning any lens 'just because' ...
That said, I still say a gun safe is the best containment method.
I have tried cabinets, closet shelves, Pelican cases, etc.
None of them has the convenience, or total security, of a gun safe. Not by a country mile.
Using large closet (silica gel) dehumidifiers within the safe, these also render machinated humidity-control obsolete.
If you have a much larger collection, you can get much larger gun safes (http://www.cabelas.com/product/BROWNING-HELLS-CANYON/2065344.uts?slotId=4).
FYI, all gun safes have adjustable shelving so you can adapt to your particular lens sizes.
You can also buy additional shelving to better-suit photography gear over guns.
Gun safes store everything: Tripods ... monopods ... huge/long glass?
They all fit and can be accommodated.
Even better, the largest safes not only can store more cameras/lenses, but they typically also have internal electrical outlets (so those who insist on machinated dehumidifiers can deploy them within the case).
As a bonus, larger safes also offer greater fire protection (they can withstand more heat), and in the event of a fire, they can withstand the higher level of heat for a much longer duration.
Finally, by adding a door-mounted sleeve, you also have storage for all your adapters, filters, remote switches, and other accouterments.
No other solution is comparable ... not even close (IMO).