NikonGear'23
Gear Talk => What the Nerds Do => Topic started by: Bjørn Jorde on February 21, 2016, 02:55:28
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I decided to take the leap and try chipping.
Thanks to the guidance from The Fierce Bear of the North, I successfully chipped my 28/f2 AI lens.
Certainly took me longer than it would for him or Dr Lens, but it's fun once it's done.
Here are a few shots of the process (taken with Df w/60D micro), as well as a shot taken with the 28/2 after chipping.
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Must feel fantastic, congratulations! Having a job performed superbly by someone else is great, but performing it at least adequately yourself is a higher level of satisfaction. For myself, anyhow. :)
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Thanks.
I agree completely.
I have two more Nikkors begging to be chipped next :-)
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Great work, and specially with countersinking the screws cleanly and for a first time chipping.
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Congratulations on a job well done. I observe that using a jig makes for cleaner appearance of the modification :D
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that looked pretty straight forward :o :o :o
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Nice work and great photo's. It looks very simple yes ;)
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Congratulations on a job well done. I observe that using a jig makes for cleaner appearance of the modification :D
The jig made it a lot easier and less stressful :)
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Bjørn, can you tell us more about that jig you used?
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OK, I'm now done with my second Nikkor. This time the 105 f2.5 classic.
Second time is easier in many ways, but each lens is different with it's own challenges.
My biggest challenge with this lense was the spring controlling the aperture return (I think).
Here are some pictures of the process, again taken with the Df with 60D micro.
First image is of the unaltered lense.
Second is of the lense with the light baffled removed.
Third shows the mount removed and the spring resting on the rear element. Unlike the 28/2, the 105/2.5 has one part of the spring on the mount the other on the lens.
Forth shows drilling the mounting holes for the CPU block.
Fifth shows counter-sinking the holes.
Sixth shows the mounted CPU on the lens mount before covering in electrical tape.
Seventh shows mount on lens and the adjusted (cut) light baffle.
Eight shows the completed work.
The last two are taken with the converted lens of my workspace and tools used.
Not shown: me enjoying a beer afterwards :)
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Bjørn, can you tell us more about that jig you used?
Thomas,
The jig is a template mounted on the bayonet mount showing where to drill the holes for the CPU block.
Bjørn R. made it and let me borrow it.
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nice work! sorry i do not understand the 4th picture. i just overhauled this same lens yesterday and i do not remember seeing this part. can you please explain? 8)
yes, the tiny spring is dangerous :o :o :o
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The forth picture shows the jig in action. It's mounted on the bayonet mount with guiding holes.
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The forth picture shows the jig in action. It's mounted on the bayonet mount with guiding holes.
OK! that is why i did not see it :o :o :o
this looks like a pretty straight forward modification...maybe i should try it some time. (after i bought my NOCT)
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this looks like a pretty straight forward modification...maybe i should try it some time. (after i bought my NOCT)
CPU modification projects range from the super easy 10 minutes job to daredevil tasks. In case of the Noct, have a look here: http://nikongear.net/revival/index.php/topic,276.0.html
That is *not* for newbies.
It is a wonderful fact that nearly all Nikkors, though obviously never designed for mounting anything extra inside them, still can be coaxed into accepting the grafting of a CPU with its contact block. One just have to be inventive sometimes to make room for the electronics and print lanes.
Nikon officials deny the CPU modification is possible at all, but many hundreds of CPU-modified lenses bespeak another story.
As to the lenses Bjørn Jorde is doing, we discussed the selection beforehand and I recommended the less exacting ones for him. Good to see the modifications are coming through nicely.
BJ: you are using a too thick drill bit to countersink, or the screw driver is too large. One should not have marks or burrs on the inner mounting flange. If such is formed, carefully polish off as otherwise the burrs can scratch the camera mount.
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i am actually more concerned about keeping the aesthetics clean and from the looks of what Bjorn Jorde did, it looks pretty clean. :o :o :o
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A CPU-modified lens should look precisely the same after modification, except for the tell-tale row of signal pins. See the attached picture of my old 15 mm f/5.6 QD.C Nikkor.
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I agree with Bjørn here ;) Try to avoid damage to the surface of the mount! and also to the three flange parts.
The drill used for countersinking the holes for the contact block screws should be about same diameter as the screw head 2mm, drill for screw is 1.5-1.6mm the screws are 1.4mm.
If your a little shaky with your hands its best to use a shaft drill with an oversize shaft that fits inside the jig holes.
There is 3.1mm between the flange surface and the three flange parts,,,
The jig is made in Denmark BTW ;) The result of a brainstorm,,, And why is it cut up? Because its the only way to make it 100% precise without a CNC machine,,,
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... Du to some malfunctioning brains at the time, we actually cut the first 3-4 K-rings in the wrong position. Thus had to discard them. Fortunately, I had brought more than a handful with me :D
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the kit looks small enough anyway. and yes, most nikkors have enough space under the baffles for this. the F mount was considered big when it came out. :o :o :o
this 105mm f/2.5 was easy to work with unfortunately mine was a bit of a trouble. the person who assembled my lens put too much epoxy in the rear bayonet screws. i heated them, put acetone on them and tried everything i know. 3 out of 5 screws came off easily but the 2 ones that were left were a pain and one of them snapped my drill in 2!!! the older screws were made of good stainless steel...
the jigs can be 3d printed and cast using a tough resin. an easily available source is the F -> EOS adapter which is really cheap.
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Thank Erik & Bjørn for the guidance on the drilling.
Turns out, the drill bit sizes were fine: The small one is 1/16" and the larger 5/64" - who needs the metric system when it's much easier to say, and remember, 5/64 of an inch than 2 mm ;)
The larger fits between the flanges just fine.
It was a bit sloppy work of me to not aim it right (no jig to help me ;) ).
Thanks again for all your help.
Oh, I did finish my third lens - the 50/1.4 AI.
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Good to hear !
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i actually love metric and hate standard (for obvious reasons) :o :o :o
so the screws you used are 2mm? ::)
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Head is 2mm and Thread is 1.4 mm, you need to buy the proper ones from Nikon, they have the exact right length and a non standard counter-sunk small head.
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1.6 is a bit rare here. usually it's 1.7 :o :o :o
(http://www.conexscrews.com/backend/productImage/screwheadtypes_400.jpg)
flat head screw here is called 皿ねじ or plate head screw. is this the one you are talking about? (counter sunk)
by the way, if you need screws, you can buy one from Sunko (they accept orders of 10,000). they basically make all types of precision screws including those pesky set screws for lens barrels. they are easily destroyed when the metal is old. i hate them so much.
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The correct retaining screws for the contact block assembly are Nikon part number 1K001-082. They come in packs of 5 screws.
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It's the first drawing; Described as: A countersunk head with a flat top,,,
Nikon uses so many off standard screws it's amazing,,,
I would never use a non Nikon Screw for this application! Bjørn had some for a while, they where terrible to use, fell of the screwdriver, sharp edges on the head,,,
I also got some Nikon screws designed for the plastic F-mounts. there the head is too large to use on a metal F-mount, had to trim them down, try trimming the head of 1.6mm hardened steel screws,,,
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Richard, the Nikon screws for the Nikon contact block that Bjørn has given you the part number for are stainless steel screws, they are M1.4 (i.e. metric, 1.4mm thread diameter), they are 3mm overall length, and have a 2mm head diameter (as noted above).
The head is variously described as a cone head, flat head, or counter sunk head depending on what part of the world you are in.
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http://www.sunco.co.jp/
this company makes screws. i am going to order some 1.4 set screws from them. i am pretty sure that they have equivalent screws that Nikon uses. their inventory is awesome. :o :o :o
you can order from them if you spend a lot for screws. that would be a lot of savings!
http://www.sunco.co.jp/street/catalog.html
click on the magenta square and it should send you to the catalogs :o :o :o
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Richard, the Nikon screws for the Nikon contact block that Bjørn has given you the part number for are stainless steel screws, they are M1.4 (i.e. metric, 1.4mm thread diameter), they are 3mm overall length, and have a 2mm head diameter (as noted above).
The head is variously described as a cone head, flat head, or counter sunk head depending on what part of the world you are in.
I see. i have some in hand, stainless & the black one. there is a screw shop nearby my studio (i actually bought all of their remaining flat head M2X4's and resold them to some friends). these screws are identical to what Nikon uses. the important part is the pitch. the pitch has to be correct.
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Richard, the pitch is metric coarse, with a 0.3mm pitch/thread.
I know that this sounds strange, but within the metric system there are several different pitches for screws of the same nominal diameter, and for M1.4, the fine pitch variant is 0.2mm/thread.
Edit: The terms "coarse" and "fine" should not be confused with the quality of the screw - the terms refer to the suitability of the screw to suit the materials that they are to be screwed into. Coarse threads are usually used with tougher materials and fine pitched threads are usually preferred for screwing into softer materials. Since the backing plates of the Nikon contact blocks are of good quality steel, coarse threads are to be preferred in such an application.
If your supplier can provide these screws at an affordable price, I am sure that there will be many people here on the NG site that would be interested in obtaining smaller quanties than 10,000 at an affordable price. The Nikon screws are excellent, but they are not cheap.
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Richard, the Nikon screws for the Nikon contact block that Bjørn has given you the part number for are stainless steel screws, they are M1.4 (i.e. metric, 1.4mm thread diameter), they are 3mm overall length, and have a 2mm head diameter (as noted above).
The head is variously described as a cone head, flat head, or counter sunk head depending on what part of the world you are in.
Your right 1.4mm the drill is 1.6mm to have 0.2mm of space - Sorry I'll correct it!
I would strongly advice not to try to find these unless you know they are identical.
Martial is some sort of very hard stainless steel alloy, not plain stainless steel that's way too soft,,,
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This forum appears to have a VERY HIGH concentration of very brave and/or patient people!! I applaud you!
Dan
Santa Barbara, CA