NikonGear'23
Gear Talk => Lens Talk => Topic started by: richardHaw on September 14, 2021, 09:57:56
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(https://nikonrumors.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/09/Nikon-Nikkor-Z-40mm-f2-lens-for-Nikon-Z-mount-lens-design.png)
it's here :o :o :o
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Light, but not an S lens. https://photographylife.com/news/nikon-z-40mm-f-2-announcement
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This is a lens that tempts me toward the Z system. My 35mm f/2D is one of my favorites and this new 40mm also has a nice low MFD. And it has low element count + Nikon even talks 3D in the promo materials!
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Awesome, might be my first Zee lens as I like small 40mmish f/2 lenses like the Carl Zeiss 2/45 Planar Contax G and Leica Summicron-C 2/40 discussed here:
https://nikongear.net/revival/index.php?topic=711.0
Also like its a simple design so the images should not be too over corrected and have some character to play with, boke looks butter smooth in the sample images which is of course a must.
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Plastic mount :(
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... and very light weight.
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Plastic mount :(
Plastic, fantastic. :D
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Once mounted leave it on ;D
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Once mounted leave it on ;D
Superglue it ;D
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The plastic may be "brittle" after 50 years?
May depend on which type of plastic......but we should probably not expect theses lenses to be working in +100 years.
I have working lenses that are +100 years old......but I did not get them from new.
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Optically very different from the Voigtländer 2/40 Ultron SL/SLII (Planar / double Gauss) or the Nikon 2,8/45 P or GN (Tessars)...
Why not a metal mount ? To cut costs ? Should'nt cost much more...
Next compact pancake after 2/40 and 2,8/28 ? A little tele/portrait lens (a new 2,5/105 or 2,8/100 E in Z mount ?)
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At the rate Chinese manufacturers are building new stuff of acceptable quality, it should not surprise me if a metal aftermarket mount doesn't show up sooner or later.
Yes a new 105mm f/2.5 would be exciting. Sadly don't see it on the Z lens roadmap just yet. Lets hope!
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Why not a metal mount ? To cut costs ? Should'nt cost much more...
Next compact pancake after 2/40 and 2,8/28 ? A little tele/portrait lens (a new 2,5/105 or 2,8/100 E in Z mount ?)
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The plastic may be "brittle" after 50 years?
May depend on which type of plastic......but we should probably not expect theses lenses to be working in +100 years.
I have working lenses that are +100 years old......but I did not get them from new.
Not sure I'll be any less brittle after 50 more years. I'll be lucky with 30 more. I certainly won't make 100 more.
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Once mounted leave it on ;D
Maybe I can live with that. :o
Superglue it ;D
Recently, I prefer UV cure resin, for the weather seal around the mount. :D
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Optically very different from the Voigtländer 2/40 Ultron SL/SLII (Planar / double Gauss) or the Nikon 2,8/45 P or GN (Tessars)...
The back focus is significantly shorter than the focal length on the Z mount. Also, it would be safe to assume that the correction for distortion and chromatic aberration is taken care of the software, which should enable a simpler design.
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Around 1971 to 1974 I bought a set of "real" Nikkor lenses ranging from 24mm to 135mm. I filled a gap in my lens line up as often as I could. The price was $210.00 to $250.00 in the US dollar of the day. Today in 2021 the approximate prices would run from $1,300.00 to $1,600.00 in devalued US dollars.
Dave
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Can this lens be focused manually? I can’t find much info, but DPReview has ‘Full time manual - No’.
I am not sure what that means. - Does it mean subtle manual adjustment after AF is possible?
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Can this lens be focused manually? I can’t find much info, but DPReview has ‘Full time manual - No’.
I am not sure what that means. - Does it mean subtle manual adjustment after AF is possible?
According to Nikon's website, the control ring can be assigned to M/A function from the camera. You can only override AF by turning the ring to nail the focus.
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LOL. I think this lens has crashed the Mapcamera web site! Reservations for the lens started four minutes ago, and the site was immediately overwhelmed!
After much struggle I ordered it. ¥28,710.
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LOL. I think this lens has crashed the Mapcamera web site! Reservations for the lens started four minutes ago, and the site was immediately overwhelmed!
The optics companies have been rivaling each other for the development of high performance lenses and the market is filled with huge lenses as a result.
Apparently, all Sony, Canon and Nikon are now looking at smaller and lighter lenses that majority or people have really needed.
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You can only override AF by turning the ring to nail the focus.
I think I'm suffering from heat exhaustion. Is AF override a problem? Press the AF-ON button then focus at will.
Dave
Should I put an ice pack on my forehead?
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I think I'm suffering from heat exhaustion. Is AF override a problem? Press the AF-ON button then focus at will.
Dave
Should I put an ice pack on my forehead?
Personally, I've never really used AF override function. Maybe for the focus pull when you shoot movies in AF mode?
You should put an ice pack on the back panel of Canon R5. :D
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Apparently, all Sony, Canon and Nikon are now looking at smaller and lighter lenses that majority or people have really needed.
Not just the size, but also the price. This will be only my second native Z lens, after the 50mm 1.8 S, and I was very happy to see that it costs probably less than a ‘vintage’ Nikkor 40mm pancake.
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Not just the size, but also the price. This will be only my second native Z lens, after the 50mm 1.8 S, and I was very happy to see that it costs probably less than a ‘vintage’ Nikkor 40mm pancake.
I prefer using no filter on the lens, and a cheap good lens is a synonym of a peace of mind: you don't need to break a bank, if the lens is damaged.
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Personally, I've never really used AF override function. Maybe for the focus pull when you shoot movies in AF mode?
Focus peaking is only activated in manual focus mode so the lens has to be switched to M explicitly. Video is about the only time I use the lens switch. :-) In still photography (using AF-S or Z lenses) I just keep the lens in AF mode and focus manually when needed, and press AF-ON when I need AF. I find the peaking intolerably distracting when making still photos (it's not precise enough for critical focusing and yet it interferes with my ability to see emotion and time shots based on what I see) but for video (where timing is not the issue as all moments are recorded) it is about the only workable solution I've found to focusing. :-)
I would guess that if Nikon now make lenses without A/M focus mode switch, this means they would either have to allow focus peaking in A mode or the A/M is switched from the camera (i menu?). My guess is the latter.
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Focus peaking is only activated in manual focus mode so the lens has to be switched to M explicitly. Video is about the only time I use the lens switch. :-) In still photography (using AF-S or Z lenses) I just keep the lens in AF mode and focus manually when needed, and press AF-ON when I need AF. I find the peaking intolerably distracting when making still photos (it's not precise enough for critical focusing and yet it interferes with my ability to see emotion and time shots based on what I see) but for video (where timing is not the issue as all moments are recorded) it is about the only workable solution I've found to focusing. :-)
I would guess that if Nikon now make lenses without A/M focus mode switch, this means they would either have to allow focus peaking in A mode or the A/M is switched from the camera (i menu?). My guess is the latter.
Ilkka, I totally agree with you about the annoyance of focus peaking in the still mode. I'm not sure whether A/M mode can be activated/deactivated from the camera. The description only says that the control ring can be assigned to A/M.
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If Nikon goes the "lightweight", "compact" way for it's Z lenses (S line or not) they should look at the Fuji DX or the recent Sigma lenses, good stuff and high quality, even construction is on a high level...
I'm not an "old timer" but construction-wise I find Nikon really disappointing ! The new Z micro Nikkors are a good stuff but 2,8/28E or this 2/40 ?
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I prefer using no filter on the lens, and a cheap good lens is a synonym of a peace of mind: you don't need to break a bank, if the lens is damaged.
One argument in favor of a filter is a filter can be used without a lens cap on the front to protect the lens in a camera bag with dividers or compartments. If a lens hood is also used the lens has quite good protection without using a lens cap.
As to flare and ghost shielding the lens front element has a much greater effect than whether one uses a filter or not. A hood may not give enough protection from just out of frame sunlight. In that case a hand may work, e.g. with a 15/5.6 AI or 24/2.8 AI.
I use Nikon L37c filter for most of my lenses. Twice over the decades a filter has given it's life to save one of my lenses.
I have an AF-D 28-70/3.5-4.5 Nikkor and AF-D 35-105/3.5-4.5 Nikkor which I paid $80.00 to $105.00 (USD) for. I figured that buying a quality Hoya filter costing 1/2 to 2/3 the cost of the lens didn't make a great deal of sense so I bought a second copy of each and keep the backups with my DX body. With these lenses I use a Nikon NH-3 hood, no filter and in a clean camera bag with dividers I normally do not use a lens cap. I quick clean the filters with a T-shirt. I've only replaced an L37c when, Oops! I smashed it, Never for scratches.
If I should buy a Nikkor Z 40/2.0 I might not use a filter and would use a lens hood. The plastic bayonet gags me. :o
Dave
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There doesn’t seem to be an official hood, but maybe one will surface soon.
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Since the 40/2 has a 52mm filter thread, the HN-3 metal screw-in hood for AIS 35/2 should do. Due to the slightly longer focal length and relatively small front element of the 40mm lens, the hoods for AIS 50/1.8 and 50/1.4 will probably work also, but these are mostly snap-on or rubber hoods which I don't like so much.
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There doesn’t seem to be an official hood, but maybe one will surface soon.
If the filter size if 52mm I'd put a Nikon HN-3 hood on it and if a cap is desired a Tupperware #G tumbler cap works. That cap was once recommended by the Nikon school for many Nikon lens hoods of the '70s and '80s. :)
Dave
Oops! Roland beat me for this advice.
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I like the screw in HN-3 hood. The HS-XX hoods with the single plastic slider work quite well. Back in the day he hoods with two chrome buttons always popped off and the hood would roll down the sidewalk when an attractive woman was near by. These days the don't bother.
Dave
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There doesn’t seem to be an official hood, but maybe one will surface soon.
Keep an eye on the JJC website, I'm sure they will produce one sooner than later. I have the JJC ones for the 16-50 and the 50-250, both are very good and a fraction of the cost of the OEM ones.
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On the subject of Z hoods, is there a really good reason why the hood for the 50mm 1.8 S is petal shaped?
I hate the reversible plastic hoods with a passion, and try to replace them with a screw-in metal one when I can. Plenty of alternative round hoods available for the 50mm lens, but will there be any disadvantage to not being petal?
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...but will there be any disadvantage to not being petal?
The petal hoods keep more stray light out of the lens. They will keep light from entering the lens that will not be a part of the image. Off the top of my head the shorter the lens the more important the petal design becomes. Also the more prone to internal flare the lens is the more important the petal design is. Am I right here or am I talking trash?
I'm going to boldly say, "Screw the petal hood on a 50mm lens!" 8)
Dave
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I hate the reversible plastic hoods with a passion...
If it helps maybe don't reverse the reversible hoods. I don't reverse the hoods on my AF-S G Nikkors. :)
Dave
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I like the plastic bayonet hoods and use them as added protection when the lens is in the bag. Sometimes the velcro-attached compartment walls fail and it's good to have extra bounce surface. So yes, I reverse the hoods systematically and with a purpose in mind. I dislike screw-on hoods as I always feel one of these days I will break the threads. I only have two such hoods, for lenses that are pretty ancient. ;-)
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Seems the new lens started shipping! I was notified last night (B&H) to receive my sample tomorrow.
Will be interesting to compare to the Z 50mm and 35mm lenses.
Well, it's not "my" lens it's for my son's Z50 ;D
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The usual unpacking
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Received my copy yesterday and did some quick tests and sharpness wise it seems to behave like my trusted 50/1.2 Ai-S with comparable softness at f2 and sharpness at f4 and above.
Boke seems ultra smooth wideopen which is my main interest but need some more testing for the final verdict. If the character of the lens suits my needs the lack of blistering sharpness wide open isn’t a showstopper similar to my beloved manual focus 50 and 85 f/1.2 lenses.
Here’s a size comparison with the adapted 50/1.2 and Voigtlander 15/4.5FE on the Z6 with RRS plate. The 15 and 40mm combo makes for a very compact travel or hiking combo.
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Looks like a very compact solution.Very tempting to try it out ;)
Did anyone test out the [IR] infrared capability?
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So far I am liking the little forty a lot as it definitely has tons of character with awesome boke and decent sharpness wideopen.
The only caveat is that I’ve traded in the optically perfect but boring Sony Zeiss 35/1.4 and already have character lenses like the 50/1.2 Ai-S and Canon 85/1.2 FD, so one side I am stoked to have a character lens in such a small package with native auto focus but I also mis an optical perfect lens below the CV125 for the times I need that distortion free clean look for a more balanced spread in types of image rendering. But maybe I am just finding excuses to buy one of the S primes haha.
The lens can hold its own for sure but would also be nice pocketable creative sidekick to the clean zoom lenses or S primes.
Here’s some quick snapshots from the garden with only minor tweaks in Affinity on the iPad, all images are at f/2 and uncropped except for the fly crop which is done at 100% to satisfy the pixel peepers :)
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Sharpness and Bokeh is obviously there! Very nice ;)
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Since the 40/2 has a 52mm filter thread, the HN-3 metal screw-in hood for AIS 35/2 should do. Due to the slightly longer focal length and relatively small front element of the 40mm lens, the hoods for AIS 50/1.8 and 50/1.4 will probably work also, but these are mostly snap-on or rubber hoods which I don't like so much.
When my just acquired 40mm f/2 arrived I immediately found that the screw-in Nikon HR-1 hood I have used on my 75-150mm E was a good fit. I do not know if it is because of age, but the rubber is so stiff that I think it will provide quite good mechanical protection (with the disadvantage that collapsing and extending it is less easy. The diameter matches the lens nicely when collapsed, but of course then providing less protection. Edit: replaced with better image). I do not see any extra vignetting even at f/2.5.
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I'm using the HN-3 hood, in fact a very old version with a lot of nicely engraved lettering on it. So far, it has protected well the 40/2 during the inevitable falls to the ground, but it does have acquired some dents and nicks over time. The 40 lens itself seemingly has survived some very bad impacts including being dropped on frozen ground or pavements.
I'm very pleased with the 40/2 for IR, so am about to buy a second copy to allow other camera to share the pleasant qualities of the 40.
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Thanks, looks like it takes up less space than the un-collapsed HR-1. Seems like there are some offerings on ebay. The 40mm IR performance has been noted!
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I'm using the HN-3 hood, in fact a very old version with a lot of nicely engraved lettering on it. So far, it has protected well the 40/2 during the inevitable falls to the ground, but it does have acquired some dents and nicks over time. The 40 lens itself seemingly has survived some very bad impacts including being dropped on frozen ground or pavements.
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Does the original HN-3 allow attachement of a 52mm filter on the front and more important to me, a 52mm lens cap?
The ebay offerings I see are pretty pricey for old scratched up original HN-3's - I found this alternative on Amazon that also is somewhat costly, but it allows a 52mm filter/lens cap to be attached on the front. It seems slightly shorter (HN-2 like?) and might not provide quite the same protection/shading. On the other hand for keeping it permanently attached the compact size would be an advantage. https://www.amazon.com/Haoge-Metal-NIKKOR-Compatible-Filters/dp/B0B88J2SGL/ (https://www.amazon.com/Haoge-Metal-NIKKOR-Compatible-Filters/dp/B0B88J2SGL/)
I also found similar ones on ebay also allowing 52mm cap, for instance: https://www.ebay.com/itm/285423835491? (https://www.ebay.com/itm/285423835491?)
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For the 40/2 I use a Nikon HR-4 hood which is a collapsible rubber hood. The 52mm Nikon cap fits the hood (both collapsed and not collapsed).
The rubber is quite thick good quality so will protect a bit if lens is dropped.
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Does the original HN-3 allow attachement of a 52mm filter on the front and more important to me, a 52mm lens cap?
The ebay offerings I see are pretty pricey for old scratched up original HN-3's - I found this alternative on Amazon that also is somewhat costly, but it allows a 52mm filter/lens cap to be attached on the front. It seems slightly shorter (HN-2 like?) and might not provide quite the same protection/shading. On the other hand for keeping it permanently attached the compact size would be an advantage. https://www.amazon.com/Haoge-Metal-NIKKOR-Compatible-Filters/dp/B0B88J2SGL/ (https://www.amazon.com/Haoge-Metal-NIKKOR-Compatible-Filters/dp/B0B88J2SGL/)
I also found similar ones on ebay also allowing 52mm cap, for instance: https://www.ebay.com/itm/285423835491? (https://www.ebay.com/itm/285423835491?)
Here you go...
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and HS-12 fits also very well
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Here you go...
Thanks, Jürgen (and MEPER). Does the HN-3 also accommodate a filter on the front? (A filter is likely best mounted between the hood and the lens, but the threads may help to keep the lens cap secure.)
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Thanks, Jürgen (and MEPER). Does the HN-3 also accommodate a filter on the front? (A filter is likely best mounted between the hood and the lens, but the threads may help to keep the lens cap secure.)
Helio Øivind,
if you want to mount the filter "inside" the HN-3 hood – no, this does not work, there is no dedicated 52mm thread as in the hood shown at amazon.
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Thanks, anything else (rilles etc.) that might help keep the lens cap secure?
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The HR-4 has filter thread. The HR-4 was meant for a 35mm or 50mm lens. It is quite compact.
The first image shows the 40mm with HR-4 + a 52mm filter attached in the HR-4 thread.
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Thanks, anything else (rilles etc.) that might help keep the lens cap secure?
Helio Øivind,
As shown in my photo, the lens cap snaps securely into the HN-3
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Thanks Jürgen and MEPER.
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I'm very pleased with the 40/2 for IR, so am about to buy a second copy to allow other camera to share the pleasant qualities of the 40.
I tried my 40/2 lens on my Z6 with a Hoya 58mm R72 IR filter. Set ISO to auto with a maximum of 6400, and shot the lens wide open. The lens autofocused beautifully, with no need to do the "red IR dot" adjustment that's required with manual focus lenses.
I believe that this with be my IR rig from now on. Thanks so much Birna for the terrific suggestion!
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I tried my 40/2 lens on my Z6 with a Hoya 58mm R72 IR filter. Set ISO to auto with a maximum of 6400, and shot the lens wide open. The lens autofocused beautifully, with no need to do the "red IR dot" adjustment that's required with manual focus lenses.
I believe that this with be my IR rig from now on. Thanks so much Birna for the terrific suggestion!
Glad you found out :)
By the way, the unevenness of light seen in that photo is a sign of vignetting with the 40mm at f/2. Not too problematic as it can quite easily be cured in the processing steps. Set a little further down the aperture range, the Nikkor Z 40 has no evident vignetting and definitively shows no hot spots.
I initially got the 28/2.8 SE Z Nikkor for IR, but while it is good that purpose, the 40/2 Z beats it hands down.
As you already commented, AF works perfectly with the 40 on the Z cameras for IR shooting. Only problem area is indoor scenes, however that results from lack of available IR light so common these days as old tungsten-based incandescent lights are being replaced by modern technology.
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Helio Øivind,
As shown in my photo, the lens cap snaps securely into the HN-3
The Nikon original HN-3 arrived, a pretty perfect match for the 40mm and that can be permanently kept on the lens. And thanks, the lens cap sure fits securely.
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Thanks, Jürgen (and MEPER). Does the HN-3 also accommodate a filter on the front? (A filter is likely best mounted between the hood and the lens, but the threads may help to keep the lens cap secure.)
The HN-3 is for F-mount lenses with 35mm focal length and was designed to fit even if a filter was attached to the lens (you can't attach a filter in front/inside the hood). Since the Nikkor Z 40mm lens has a longer focal length and has a very small front element, the HN-3 will work without causing any vignetting even if fitted over a filter. I expect most hoods for 50mm lenses will work well for this lens.
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You are absolutely correct, Roland. Even a hood for the 85mm f/2 (HN-21) will not vignette at all.
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In fact, using a longer hood on the Z 40mm f/2 confers advantages when the lens is used in bad weather. Also for IR, the longer the shade, the better, as IR photography always is prone to flare issues.
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Hello Birna, the HN21 was the lenshood for the 3,5/75-150 series E, the 2,0/85 had the lenshood with spring called HS10.
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I used the HN-21 on my 85/2. I positively dislike the "snap on" hoods which all tend to be rather "snap off". Udsually I glue the springs with epoxy glue.
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I actually like this lens a lot. I don't know why many people are shitting on this lens despite knowing that it's made for economy and compactness :o :o :o
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I always have to smile.
You buy the Z 40mm because of its compactness and... then attach a large lens hood to it. ::)
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A lens like this is great for travel -- super compact to put in your bag. And if you might face conditions where a lens hood makes sense, that can go in separately. So there's really no size penalty.
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I always have to smile.
You buy the Z 40mm because of its compactness and... then attach a large lens hood to it. ::)
Two different times I went shooting with National Geographic photographers. All three of them had the biggest lens hoods I've ever seen on lenses. They told me when you're a pro and demand ultimate quality, you should use the largest lens hood that the lens will accommodate.
Also, if you look closely at the photo of the large hood, under it you will see an IR filter. Large lens hoods are critical when shooting serious IR images.
I always try to wring the best quality out of my gear. If I didn't feel that way, I guess I'd just shoot my smart phone all of the time.
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...They told me when you're a pro and demand ultimate quality, you should use the largest lens hood that the lens will accommodate.
Ok, the best... for a pro... ultimate quality... with the Z 40mm ??? ... Interesting at least...
Also, if you look closely at the photo of the large hood, under it you will see an IR filter. Large lens hoods are critical when shooting serious IR images.
This is a point I understand completely
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There is no contradiction between 'pro' and using the Nikkor 40/2. This lens is more than good enough.
Images are created by the photographer.
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True dat.
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You buy the Z 40mm because of its compactness and... then attach a large lens hood to it. ::)
A short rectangular hood could be a solution, would be more effective than a round hood
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A short rectangular hood could be a solution, would be more effective than a round hood
That's true, but optimally would require a bayonet-type mount for the hood.
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The lens has 52mm? Not optimal, but a cheap alternative?
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The hood is square, but in my opinion way too wide/short for the 40/2.
Perhaps the small hood for the CV 90mm/3.5 might be used. I have to check
Update: it works. But the appearance is funny.
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The Thypoch have square hoods!
https://thypoch.com/en/simera (https://thypoch.com/en/simera)
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Usually one buys a hood for a lens, not a lens to get a hood :)
Apparently no electronics inside.
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Nikon should deliver a compact lens with a perfect compact hood, even with additional costs, I do not want to spend time and money to look for hoods.
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Most users don't use the hood anyway. Or they keep it in a reversed position on the lens. Thus, the maker has not a big incentive to make a bespoke hood and they tend to deliver generic designs.
Personally, I always find the longest possible hood for a given lens. Just keep a drawer with surplus hoods to have an available selection.
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Most users don't use the hood anyway. Or they keep it in a reversed position on the lens.
That doesn´t make any sense.
An effective hood should be rectangular, not quadratic or round.
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Or they keep it in a reversed position on the lens.
gives the better selfies
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An effective hood should be rectangular, not quadratic or round.
I disagree: why are you excluding 6x6 photographers?
in addition an hood for a full frame lens used in APSC mode needs a 4 side curtain to shade the unused angel of view
btw my hoodie is either flat or round /bowl shaped
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I disagree: why are you excluding 6x6 photographers?
i
ok, they could use quadratic hoods, better than round hoods