Shooting in windows with D850

[David H. Hartman]

This was taken with a D200, Micro Nikkor 55mm f2.8: 1/50 Sec @ f5.6.  Poor light, taken through glass using a Nikon rubber lens hood pressed against the glass.  Glass was a bit grubby with finger marks, quick rub with sleeve fixed that.  It was a very quick grab shot, the visitors (myself included) were being chased out of the place by a curator at closing time.

Beautiful Photograph!

---

Long ago in galaxy far way...

MotherLoad,

I used a rubber lens hood in a Cessna over Hollywood. I don't remember the model. The hood kept extraneous light off the Plexiglas so reflections were avoided. The lens was probably a 55/3.5 Micro-Nikkor. I remember I had longer lenses. I might have used an 85/1.8 Nikkor-H. I had an 80-200/4.5 Zoom-Nikkor but it was useless with Kodachrome of the day (1972-1973?). I don't think I even tried a shot with the 80-200/4.5 due to motion and vibrations.

Anyway a few rubber hoods might come in handy. I'm wondering about what kind of windows and why a 14-24/2.8? Excluding light might be a requirement.

Dave Hartman

---

[Bodie US, I may have been there in the '60s.]

[The device Akira linked looks very promising. It might swallow the 14-24/2.8]

[David H. Hartman]

Maybe you could use something like this?

https://www.amazon.com/Lenskirt-Anti-Reflection-Portable-Flexible-Lens/dp/B005LAW7W8

Very interesting device! Thanks for posting the link. I want one. 

Dave

[ColinM]

Hi Motherload, so as you've seen taking pictures through glass in itself isn't always a problem (and the device on Amazon looks intriguing).

But I wonder if the real consideration is more the amount of falling on the subject beyond the glass, and the amount (and direction) of light falling on the photographer. So a dark interior and a photographer with bright sunlight shining on them might mean you need extra steps to minimise unwanted reflections.

And is it feasible to take a flashgun with you to illuminate the interior? You might need to hold it above your head, or get a fellow traveller to hold it (remotely triggered) so you boost the illumination of the subject above any reflections.

Meanwhile I was going tell you about the many shots I took through a coach window, whilst travelling round Iceland. Despite the vibration & risks of reflection, many of these came out pretty well......then I realised your situation is slightly different.

So here's an example that might be closer to what you meant (minus the water!)

[Matthew Currie]

I've had varying luck with shooting interiors through glass, but I don't think the overall light will be nearly as much problem as the reflection, and if you can get close enough to a window, and the light is not too glaring, it can work all right.  The widest thing I have at the moment is a 16-85 DX lens on a DX camera,  which does not do too badly.  If you can get the camera up to the glass, it reduces most of the glare, especially because you yourself will be shielding it from direct light.  If you can't get close enough, a polarizer can help, but remember that it also darkens your view a bit, so if the interior is badly lit it will require a pretty high ISO exposure.  I'd be sure to take a polarizer anyway, even if some shots are better without it.  You may find it helps outdoors anyway.

[pluton]

Keep in mind that any remaining original window glass at Bodie, California was probably manufactured in the late 19th/very early 20th century.  The glass from that time is not plano, and the ripple effect will be severe.

[Matthew Currie]

Rippling glass can be fun but it certainly does make its own problems. 

But here's also an admittedly quick and dirty one a bit more like what is anticipated, I think, except for the glass.  This a peek through a window at Grieg's composing hut at Ullensvang. Grainy because shot a little too dark and brightened up from ISO 640 on a D7100.  A bit more careful exposure, plus better ISO performance ought to do better.