Author Topic: Chipping a Nikkor - A Walk-through  (Read 37536 times)

Birna Rørslett

  • Global Moderator
  • **
  • Posts: 2496
  • A lesser fierce bear of the North
Re: Chipping a Nikkor - A Walk-through
« Reply #30 on: February 11, 2019, 19:31:45 »
No, I have sold off nearly all of my inventory and have no plans for new production batches. Too much money to invest and too much hassle with orders and helping people getting into trouble with their chipping projects.

I do have a few handful of chips and parts to ensure I can process own new lenses if need arises 2-3 times a year. That's all.

I take the opportunity to say the current situation is a pity as the Z cameras do benefit from having chipped lenses. (like the Nikon DSLRs in that respect, in particular the middle- to lower-end models).

acgiannopo

  • NG Member
  • *
  • Posts: 62
  • You ARE NikonGear
Re: Chipping a Nikkor - A Walk-through
« Reply #31 on: February 11, 2019, 20:06:46 »
Thank you for your answer. Would you recommend using the dandelion ones?

Birna Rørslett

  • Global Moderator
  • **
  • Posts: 2496
  • A lesser fierce bear of the North
Re: Chipping a Nikkor - A Walk-through
« Reply #32 on: February 11, 2019, 20:11:59 »
At present there are hardly any alternatives. Do note the dandelions are infamous for being brittle and breaking up. Thus it is paramount they are mounted to make the contact pins rub a minimum against the camera contacts when the lens is mounted or removed. Having a lens jammed or the chip falling into the mirror box in the field can be troublesome to say the least

AI and AI'd lenses do not comply well with the logic of Dandelion programming, at least they didn't the last time I tried the combination. Thus stick to AIS lenses.

Birna Rørslett

  • Global Moderator
  • **
  • Posts: 2496
  • A lesser fierce bear of the North
Re: Chipping a Nikkor - A Walk-through
« Reply #33 on: February 11, 2019, 20:21:04 »
This is Erik's solution with the Dandelion and the 50/1.2, by the way. Even when "hidden" and supported like this, I have had failures of the dandelion chip.

acgiannopo

  • NG Member
  • *
  • Posts: 62
  • You ARE NikonGear
Re: Chipping a Nikkor - A Walk-through
« Reply #34 on: February 11, 2019, 20:36:12 »
Are they just glued or solderd on the flange? I wonder if this an appropriate way of just gluing the pins in every lens. Thank you for posting this image, i guess it's a lot helping for everyone having a 50mm f/1.2 ai-s

Birna Rørslett

  • Global Moderator
  • **
  • Posts: 2496
  • A lesser fierce bear of the North
Re: Chipping a Nikkor - A Walk-through
« Reply #35 on: February 11, 2019, 20:51:39 »
The pins need to be able to move in-out. They are spring-loaded.

Erik Lund

  • Global Moderator
  • **
  • Posts: 5437
  • Copenhagen
    • ErikLund.com
Re: Chipping a Nikkor - A Walk-through
« Reply #36 on: February 12, 2019, 07:50:26 »
There are some images and info on Dandelions in this thread:


http://nikongear.net/revival/index.php/topic,6603.0.html

As B states, fragile and only recommended as last solution,,,


BTW plenty of threads here if you search for Dandelion


Here with B's CPU version, The real thing ;)

35mm 1.4 Ais
http://nikongear.net/revival/index.php/topic,3459.15.html

58mm 1.2 Ai
http://nikongear.net/revival/index.php/topic,276.0.html
Erik Lund

Erik Lund

  • Global Moderator
  • **
  • Posts: 5437
  • Copenhagen
    • ErikLund.com
Re: Chipping a Nikkor - A Walk-through
« Reply #37 on: February 12, 2019, 14:37:36 »
I would not recommend doing this unless you are a skilled DIY, and are willing to buy a handful of Dandelions and try it out.


I think B. has chipped more or less all manual focus Nikkor-F lenses, except a few for obvious reasons.


One we didn't chip was the rental 6mm f/2.8 Ais i used in Scotland  :o


The image B posted above with a Dandelion is actually a 50mm 1.2 Ais - I done that one 3 times as well as 55mm 1.2


Please note there is very big difference between Dandelion and the real CPU implementation for these super fast lenses
Erik Lund

Jack Dahlgren

  • NG Member
  • *
  • Posts: 1146
  • You ARE NikonGear
Re: Chipping a Nikkor - A Walk-through
« Reply #38 on: February 12, 2019, 18:10:44 »
I would not recommend doing this unless you are a skilled DIY, and are willing to buy a handful of Dandelions and try it out.


I think B. has chipped more or less all manual focus Nikkor-F lenses, except a few for obvious reasons.


One we didn't chip was the rental 6mm f/2.8 Ais i used in Scotland  :o


The image B posted above with a Dandelion is actually a 50mm 1.2 Ais - I done that one 3 times as well as 55mm 1.2


Please note there is very big difference between Dandelion and the real CPU implementation for these super fast lenses

What sort of data and what sort of protocol do the chips use? I know Birna doesn't want to make any more, but maybe if there is some interest someone will pick it up.


Bluejae

  • NG Member
  • *
  • Posts: 2
  • You ARE NikonGear
Re: Chipping a Nikkor - A Walk-through
« Reply #39 on: June 22, 2020, 04:54:14 »
I usually sell them for USD 45-50* each plus shipping and handling. Thus the unit price depends on the number ordered.
* recent prices have been higher as parts cost apparently increase exponentially over time
Hi I’m a new member looking for replacement chip or contact block or pins whichever would be most appropriate. I have a 500mm f4p that has recently lost some of the spring loaded pins at the contact block (I think that’s what that part is called based on reading through this.) Im looking for any information that moves my repair along. I realize the approximate prices  here are years old so have no doubt gone up. Thanks in advance

Birna Rørslett

  • Global Moderator
  • **
  • Posts: 2496
  • A lesser fierce bear of the North
Re: Chipping a Nikkor - A Walk-through
« Reply #40 on: June 22, 2020, 10:05:54 »
I might be able to secure a new contact block for you, including the pins. Price has indeed gone up and shipping to the US will further hike the total. Replacing the original block is not difficult, but dimensions of the pins and screws are tiny so you need a steady hand, a good small JIS driver, and probably a needle-point tweezer.

If replacing the damaged block is done with care you should be able to salvage the original CPU which can sit in place during the repair. Only the signalling cable from the CPU to the contact block needs to be handled -- very carefully. I'm out of spare CPU chips, so re-using the original is crucial.

The 500 P had the first generation contact block designs, without the rear metal shield of the later model. This made it prone to damage, as witnessed by a number of requests for similar spare parts for this lens.

Bluejae

  • NG Member
  • *
  • Posts: 2
  • You ARE NikonGear
Re: Chipping a Nikkor - A Walk-through
« Reply #41 on: June 22, 2020, 20:56:12 »
Thanks for the reply. Would pins from another spare/broken lens possibly work? Tools for this are on hand, I already removed and reinstalled  the backing plate as well as the block to see how easily it would go when I do it for real, though I didn’t take the block apart. I’m willing to buy a block though, the lens is awesome otherwise. I can PM my shipping and work out payment. But really considering you are in a position to have a part that is in low supply, if I can repair with just pins, I’d think saving such a part for a true need elsewhere would be nice.

Erik Lund

  • Global Moderator
  • **
  • Posts: 5437
  • Copenhagen
    • ErikLund.com
Re: Chipping a Nikkor - A Walk-through
« Reply #42 on: June 23, 2020, 09:29:14 »
Yes, the original Nikon contact block pins are interchangeable/compatible.Some lenses form other manufactures have very different pin styles so can't be used.
Erik Lund

Birna Rørslett

  • Global Moderator
  • **
  • Posts: 2496
  • A lesser fierce bear of the North
Re: Chipping a Nikkor - A Walk-through
« Reply #43 on: June 23, 2020, 14:08:28 »
Be warned that the pins from the first generation blocks (all plastic without rear metal shield) have less "give" than the later model. Thus you can use new pins on old blocks, but preferably not old pins on new blocks. Or reuse on the old blocks at all, as the contact pathway is easier broken if the contact block itself isn't seated perfectly.