Voigtlander 125mm f/2.5 APO Lanthar

[Michael Erlewine]

The image magnification is  not mentioned. The independent observations of slight blue lateral fringing are from near 1:1. Otherwise the APO-Lanthar is as clean as a whistle.

What made me discard a newly acquired AFS 105 mm f/2.8 Micro-Nikkor VR G and let the AO-Lanthar take its position many years ago was the near total lack of longitudinal chromatic aberration ('axial colour') of the Voigtländer. This imparts a special clarity to the images that very few other lenses can match.

I learned of the CV-125 APO-Lanthar from Bjørn Rørslett years ago. And, although I have probably dozens of macro/close-up lenses, the CV-125 is still the best all-around close-up lens in the business. And they seem to be getting less expensive on Ebay than they used to be. I have owned four of these babies, and today have only two, although one is an unused perfect specimen in Nikon F-mount. This is one of those lenses that has its own particular character, one that I like very much.

[John Koerner]

I am grateful for both my upgrade to the Nikon D810 as well as learning about the Voigtlander 125 APO.



Here is a real-world example showing the extreme usability of the D810 Base-64 ISO, married with the quality of the Voigtlander 125mm f2.5 APO-Lanthar Macro in salvaging an image ...



The above image is the only capture of this lizard I was able to get before it ran off, while on a hike, which image was severely under-exposed.
(Keep in mind, this image displayed here is only 1200 px-wide, the original image was 7400 px wide.)

With most cameras, that do not have the D810's unique Base-64 ISO, the above capture would have been an essentially unusable image, because all of the detail would have been lost.
However, because the Nikon D810 can still capture incredible detail even in an under-exposed image, I was able to move my slider over to increase the exposure, and crop the image like this:



And from the larger, under-exposed image I was able to develop a full-sized, nicely-detailed image like this:



Even better, because of the extreme quality of the sensor (as well as the Voigtlander 125 f/2.5 APO Macro lens I was using), I was able to crop to an even greater extreme, like this:



The unique characteristic of a Base-64 ISO, plus an exceptional lens, enabled me to come out of this with a very detailed, ultra-close macro-portrait of the animal, like this:



While not absolutely perfect, the above image certainly is usable (and better than many entry-level camera/lens combos can achieve at true 1:1).

Here is a nearly-noiseless, 90% crystal-clear, full profile of this Great Basin Fence Lizard that was able to be developed and salvaged from a rather dark, far-away shot that wouldn't be usable if taken by most systems.

Therefore, while sometimes there are AF needs that this manual lens cannot address (which is where my 300mm VR II comes in), when it comes to quality images, the Voigtlander APO-Lanthar + D810 is a great combination for the nature photographer, allowing him/her to salvage fleeting opportunities that might have otherwise been lost.

Jack

[Bjørn Rørslett]

A nice demonstration of the capability of the APO-Lanthar 125 (and the resolution power of a 36 MPix sensor). It really is an excellent lens, nobody question that.

However, I sometimes wish its internal construction was as robust as its optical prowess. This is a lens I always have two of with one serving as backup in case of technical issues. Erik (aka 'Dr. Lens') is not always available as a first-aid tech ... My first sample of the 125 APO must have been serviced at least 10 times over the years either by me or Erik. My current work lens holds up well so far, but it's early days yet.

[Erik Lund]

Yes a fine post processing sample, I have also great success with the D810 files in low light.

The 125mm APO Lanthar has almost zero CA.

I have never seen purple fringing with the lens, maybe since I shoot with controlled studio flash most the time.

Sometimes I have seen various traces of CA in close up shots from this lens when shooting metal/steel on a black back ground.

The lens internal chassis is not designed mechanically for heavy field use, the internal design with the 'universal' mount is not solid, it's a rather flimsy set of three screws supposed to keep the lens in one piece,

I have repaired several lenses from around the world with issues around that mount area, screws either work loose or the are pulled through the too thinly cast metal.

Over all Voigtlander choose screws a bit smaller/thinner than the ordinary sizes we are used to in Nikkor lenses, I have upgraded several lenses to larger size threads and introduced washers under the heads in high load places, where the metal casting is too thin those has needed any service since...

The focusing threads and guides for the floating elements seems to hold up quite well though so completely satisfactory overall performance for normal use can be expected!

[John Koerner]

Yeah, I try to be careful with the lens, as it does seem fragile.

So, basically, if I keep using this lens, it will come apart due to fragile screws?

Well, I guess the good news is it can be repaired, and upgraded ... or should this kind of work be done in advance, preemptively?

[Bjørn Rørslett]

Opening the lens and replacing the parts that are bound to fail over time is a wise decision in the longer run. The external appearance of this lens matches the excellent optics, but not the build quality.

When my APO-Lanthar failed the first time, in South Africa in 2009, I had only used the lens for less than 2 years. Its focusing collar suddenly jammed. Fortunately, my new-found friend Erik Lund travelled with me and he quickly revitalised the APO-Lanthar by a makeshift repair.

I regard the APO-Lanthar as one of the 'must have' lenses in my various lens kits so never travel without it. To distribute the wear (wear levelling), I have several of them. At present "only" 2, though.

[Erik Lund]

Remove the lens from the camera during transport in a bag in a jeep or an airplane or similar and as always; Don't drop it and you will be fine!

Basically the lens has a 'breakaway' point similar to a Nikkor 24-70mm AFS there are just no spares to repair it with in that point in the lens chassis,,,

Just use it - It's an amazing tool!

[Royal Winchester]

Hi folks!  First post here.

How important would you say it is to add a cpu to the APO-Lanthar?  Do most of the users of this lens choose to do that?

[Bjørn Rørslett]

Adding a CPU to it helps on several levels regarding exposure consistence and accuracy. Plus of course one cannot forget setting the correct EXIF information ...

Due to the way this lens is built (it has an interchangeable mount), adding a CPU is much more difficult than usual and is best left to the specialists. Putting a Dandelion CPU on it might be a little easier (?), but the documented fragility of the Dandelion is a concern.

Not many APO-Lanthar 125 lenses have been CPU-modified over the years that I know of.  With my CPUs probably max. 10.

[Fons Baerken]

i havent ,but nikon cameras dont know 125mm, so have set the profile on 135mm.

[Bjørn Rørslett]

At least you can set max.aperture to f/2.5 with the 135 mm setting to identify your APO-Lanthar.

Having a CPU in the manual lenses makes them compatible across the entire range of Nikons, plus the Fujifilm Finepix Sx(x=1-5) line. I use S3Pro UVIR and S5Pro at the moment. Not every one of these cameras allows a non-CPU lens to be programmed.

[Royal Winchester]

Yeah, I've never modified a lens, so I'd be way to skittish to try to modify this one.  I've been using extension tubes for close up since my D2H, and just upgraded a D2X to a D500 and decided to buy a real macro lens.  I also ventured into manual focus non Nikon lenses last year with a Voigtlanger 58mm Noct and I really like it, so between that and the great reviews and discussions around it, I decided to get the 125mm.

[rosko]

However, I sometimes wish its internal construction was as robust as its optical prowess.

I have the same feeling too.

This is why I try to be very careful mostly when I focus on a close subject : I turn the focusing ring slowly without force it and thus avoid any damage of  inside helicoid guides, and prevent any play.

I am also very careful when the lens is fully deployed and thus vulnerable.

So, if you are mostly landscape (and even portrait) photographer, the risk is minimized as you work at infinity.

Here is the (same) lens in both extreme positions (taken with Df+old S Auto5,8cm /1,4 @ f/5,6)

[Bjørn Rørslett]

Nobody has any interest in deliberately destroying their lenses? However careful as one might be, accidents can happen and that is where the internal build of a lens shows a difference.

Getting the three retaining screws for the focusing guides replaced by something more beefy or at least put a washer under the existing ones will probably help towards an improved longevity for the 125/2.5. Those screws are really the Achilles heel of the construction.

[rosko]

Nobody has any interest in deliberately destroying their lenses?

Of course not.

But such issues could occur by ignorance (for instance if anybody ignores how a lens is made inside) or trying to focus a stiff lens by lack of maintenance (sticky old grease).

This is how we can get great bargain on ebay : many lenses are sold as ''defect'' or ''for parts'' at ridiculously low prices. They mostly need to be re lubricated.

That said, I have never saw a CV apo lanthar sold as ''defect'' (cause stiff focus) so far...

Thanks for the tip about the guides, but not sure I would try to dismantle my CV 125mm. I will leave this delicate task to a specialist !