Repairing the AF-Nikkor 50mm f/1.8

[richardHaw]

http://richardhaw.com/2017/08/09/repair-af-nikkor-50mm-f1-8d/

well, somebody requested that I do something different so here it is!

this is probably too easy for most people here

[Hugh_3170]

Another nice write up.  Thank you.

Is the lens not a non-D lens?  I ask, because the PCB for D-lenses include circuitry for the distance information feedback to the camera body and it extends deep into the lens body - I cannot see this from your photos.  Also, the lenses are marked as f/1.8D, which doesn't seem to be the case with your lens.

[richardHaw]

Another nice write up.  Thank you.

Is the lens not a non-D lens?  I ask, because the PCB for D-lenses include circuitry for the distance information feedback to the camera body and it extends deep into the lens body - I cannot see this from your photos.  Also, the lenses are marked as f/1.8D, which doesn't seem to be the case with your lens.

oh,dear...you are correct! 

[richardHaw]

Thank you very much for pointing that out! 
I should hit myself with a bat!

[Hugh_3170]

No Richard - don't do that!

I greatly appreciate your teardown and repair reports, as I am sure many others on this site also likewise appreciate your efforts.

With so many different versions of Nikon's humble and often under rated 50mm f/2.0 and f/1.8 lenses around , it is easy to mistake one version for another and to trip ones self up.  In the photos that you publish, it is interesting to see just how large the metering PCB and chip is compared to the newer and much smaller chips that Bjorn uses in his metering PCBs.

Thank you very much for pointing that out! 
I should hit myself with a bat!

[richardHaw]

This is indeed the non-D version 

[Akira]

Rick, you efforts are always appreciated.  All you would have to do this time would be to replace the wrong images with the correct ones, I guess.

Apparently you disassembled the D version (I see the rubberized focus ring in some images).  However, the rear part is definitely the non-D version.  I know that because I also disassembled a wrecked AF 35/2.0 which was a non-D one and there was no connection between the PCB on the lens mount and the focusing mechanism.  And the removed mount with PCB looks very similar to mine.

So, which did you disassembled?  I would assume you worked on both and the images were confused...

[richardHaw]

it's the later non-D 

I worked on the AF-D before and just like what was pointed out, it did have a flex cable going all the way to the focusing ring 

[Erik Lund]

Rick, you efforts are always appreciated.  All you would have to do this time would be to replace the wrong images with the correct ones, I guess.

Apparently you disassembled the D version (I see the rubberized focus ring in some images).  However, the rear part is definitely the non-D version.  I know that because I also disassembled a wrecked AF 35/2.0 which was a non-D one and there was no connection between the PCB on the lens mount and the focusing mechanism.  And the removed mount with PCB looks very similar to mine.

So, which did you disassembled?  I would assume you worked on both and the images were confused...

There was a non-D with rubber grip on the  focus ring

http://www.photosynthesis.co.nz/nikon/afn5018.jpg

Roland to the rescue

[Martin Zimelka]

Thanks for the write up. Very useful.
Do you know how I could do a infinity adjustment on the 50/1.8 D version?

The D version only has the 3 screws on the front which remove the front barrel and lens group to get to the aperture. Nothing else.

[richardHaw]

it's probably just a tape underneath the rubber grip 

[Akira]

There was a non-D with rubber grip on the  focus ring

http://www.photosynthesis.co.nz/nikon/afn5018.jpg

Roland to the rescue

Gosh, I totally forgot this transitional version!  Thanks for the correction.  Yes, Roland to the rescue for the memory failure.   

[Martin Zimelka]

I've just taken the AF-D 50/1.8 D completely apart, and it seems infinity stop cannot be calibrated by the looks of it.
The helicoid can be screwed together to be positioned differently, but then infinity is completely out of wack at around 3 meters.
Delving deeper, there are rubber stops that dampen the impact at of the focus limits. I suppose the one for infinity can be shaved off a little, but thats not ideal.

I must admit, taking the lens apart is extremely easy