D750 and metering

[OCD]

hot shoe cover $6.99  https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00J2I9Q7E/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

b6 is where you can fine-tune the exposure settings.  I'm leaning toward a -1/6 for Matrix...maybe...haha.  The Rorslett Rules are usually solid.  (smile).

[OCD]

Interesting comment from Thom Hogan's D750 User guide:

D750 Guide 100
Before leaving the matrix metering, we need to discuss one other thing: brightness. One relatively common complaint that began with the launch of the D3 and D300 was that the new Nikon cameras “overexpose.” But if you look at some of the images these people are objecting to, they are not actually overexposed (i.e. the highlights aren’t blown out).

Nikon’s interpretation of mid-range brightness changed with the D3 in 2007. The Standard Picture Control has a default Brightness setting of 0. But this produces mid-range tonalities that are somewhat higher in value than the D2 series and other earlier Nikon DSLRs produced. Where a D2x might have placed a value at 122,122,122 the D750 models place that same value at something more like 128,128,128, which appears visually brighter. Meanwhile, highlight and shadow values didn’t change. Thus, to some this looked like “more exposure.” It isn’t. It’s just an adjustment curve. If you shoot NEF (raw) you’ll be able to override that. If you shoot JPEG, you’ll have to learn about the Picture Control settings to adjust this.

The reason for discussing this with the metering system is that you need to be careful to assess exposure separately from tonal placement when you’re trying to figure out the metering system. Picture Control settings are a little tricky, and interact with exposure settings in how mid-tones are visualized.

The matrix metering system in the D750 has a tendency to produce images that don’t strongly blow out any highlights, though this can sometimes make the image look a bit dull and underexposed. The simplest way to deal with such images is to change the linearity using a Curve in Photoshop. Another way is to alter the camera’s settings; in particular, you can use a Custom Curve or change in Brightness in your Picture Control  Yet another method is to use Active D-Lighting.

© 2016 Thom Hogan All Rights Reserved


I'm a JPEG shooter, so I typically use Active D-Lighting on Auto when using Matrix metering.  When using center-weighted or spot I turn off Active D-Lighting.  I'm of a mind to use exposure compensation rather than adjust the metering system using the b6 setting.  --OCD

[David H. Hartman]

Who here can rub there stomach and pat their head at the same time? How about use the AF-ON button, exposure lock and squeeze off shots all at the same time?

When I used center-weighted metering I always used the exposure lock with aperture Preferred. I don't think I can do that with AF-ON. This shouldn't be a problem with manual exposure and AF-ON. I'm thinking it over.

Dave who can't juggle two tennis balls

[Arild]

 I think I need an english summary for the last two posts. Something important is said, alas my brain cannot process all that info.

[chambeshi]

Who here can rub there stomach and pat their head at the same time? How about use the AF-ON button, exposure lock and squeeze off shots all at the same time?

When I used center-weighted metering I always used the exposure lock with aperture Preferred. I don't think I can do that with AF-ON. This shouldn't be a problem with manual exposure and AF-ON. I'm thinking it over.

Dave who can't juggle two tennis balls

my 6 pence worth - with AF-On enabling Back-Button focus set the Fn button [front bottom right] to AE Lock. Don't have a D750, it's under f1 on the D500 and dedicated to f4 on the Df.
I can work both on my Nikons, even though I reconciled decades back that i lacked the genomic payload to play a stringed instrument :-)

[charlie]

I can't comment on the D750, but with the D800 in matrix mode I find it puts far to much weight on the position of the single focus point/spot meter position in the view finder at the time the picture is taken. In your picture of the red house for example, had the focus point been in the shadow area of the house the image would have over exposed. Had it been on the sunlit front of the house it would have given a similar exposure to the picture posted.

That behavior is more like spot metering than it is judging the scene as a whole, which I was under the impression that is what matrix metering was useful for. I find center weighted metering does not have this issue and often provides more accurate results.

[CS]

So go out and shoot a some scenes with matrix and center weighted copies, then compare the results. You know they say a picture is worth a thousand words........

[OCD]

For AE-L:  configure the shutter button to lock exposure on a half-press.

I shoot center-weighted the same way.  AF-ON, shutter button half-press to lock exposure, recompose and shoot.  I also use easy exposure compensation so I can adjust exposure with the back command dial without having to press a button.  So...the only buttons you're pressing are AF-On and the Shutter Release.

: )

[Matthew Currie]

For AE-L:  configure the shutter button to lock exposure on a half-press.

I shoot center-weighted the same way.  AF-ON, shutter button half-press to lock exposure, recompose and shoot.  I also use easy exposure compensation so I can adjust exposure with the back command dial without having to press a button.  So...the only buttons you're pressing are AF-On and the Shutter Release.

: )

I do the same, with AE lock on the half pressed shutter.  Once you're used to it, it allows focus, metering and shooting to be separated with a minimum of total buttons. Other people prefer other buttons when they're available, but I got used to the shutter button on a D3200, where it was the only option, and prefer it now. 

Of course all these things are a matter of taste.  I, for example, rarely use center weighting and when matrix doesn't work I usually go to spot and hunt for a mid-tone target that may or may not even end up in the picture, rather than exposure compensation, in part because on the D7100 I find the ISO button too easy to get wrong, so I have mine set for "easy ISO" rather than "easy exposure comp."

[Jakov Minić]

I believe that it all depends on the circumstances and in what kind of light you are shooting.
Matrix is what I use most. Sometimes I swap to spot metering or I simply use exposure compensation in matrix mode to my liking.
No to mention the amount of stops you can gain in post processing...but of course you would want to get it right as much as possible from the camera.

[David H. Hartman]

I'd replace it with an original.