Cleaning the rear glass of a 200Micro/Ai?

[Steven Paulsen]

It's difficult to axcess the rear element because of the depth of the mounting tube. Also, the aperture blades are uncovered/exposed. (I tried many times using a pencil wrapped with a wad of lens wipes, however I cannot ever confirm or see the polished or smeared finish, correctly.

Does removing the lens mounting tube open up a horrible can or worms?

(Add a longer handle to a sensor swab, & insert/wipe, rotate?)

[David H. Hartman]

Use a Q-Tip with a cotton tip. You can put lens tissue on that. A camera repairman friend used to use q-tips by the pound (kilo) for cleaning lenses. I think they are safe for all but soft coated lenses including many German optics before ?? 1980? I had a 75/5.6 Schneider Super-Angulon that had it's coatings bruised by a lens cap.

Anyway as far as I know Nikon F bayonet optics from 1965 at the least are hard coated. If I'm wrong will someone please correct me?

I own a 200/4.0 AI Micro. I don't clean it often. I'd shine a light through the lens if it doesn't look hazy I wouldn't worry. Dust it out occasionally with a rocket blower or similar.

Dave  Hartman

[Bjørn Rørslett]

The stray light baffle is secured by three small screws seated in the bayonet mount. Remove these and the baffle can be removed in its entirety. No worms will emerge. You'll gain better access to the rear element for cleaning.

However, as one of the three screws also does double duty as the stop screw, (if memory serves, some Nikkors have he double duty screw, others follow a 3 + 1 layout)  it is paramount that it isn't lost and gets put back later before the lens is attached to a camera. Never mount an F mount lens without the stop screw.

[Steven Paulsen]

Thank you.


I have quite a few manual focus lenses, most of which I don't see the need to upgrade toward AF. The 200/micro is one exception. I hope Nikon soon upgrades the AF-D version so it it plummets in price & makes a way into my camera sack.