Diopter sdjustment on the D800's

[Steven Paulsen]

I am comparing two D800's, one an "E." Did Nikon possibly use different internal lens systems using the diopter adjustment in the viewfinder? I ordered a +1 eyepiece because I had the tiny knob adjusted the whole way (+). Now, I don't seem to need it.

There were many times I was shooting small outdoor animals, Bunnies, squirrels, that cursed woodpecker, (I saw fine detail in the VF, like I can count the hairs on the Rabbit's ears,) shoot 1/125, 1/250 using a good telephoto and getting muck detail in the shots. I thought an D800E might better catch more detail. The shots aren't out of focus. I got his eyes, perfectly.

I'm also very aware my myopia is getting tamer with age.

Back in my 30's I was a -4. Late forty/fifties -2.25, and I recently popped a -1.75 in right eye and monovision worked for the first time. I worked as an optician for many wonderful years, so I do know a bit on lenses, eye corection, etc.

Thank You, in Advance.
Dinosaur Steve

(All my cameras are obsolete and I don't care.)

[Øivind Tøien]

1/250 s on a woodpecker is not likely to render sharp images unless timing is perfect?

[pluton]

I am comparing two D800's, one an "E." Did Nikon possibly use different internal lens systems using the diopter adjustment in the viewfinder? I ordered a +1 eyepiece because I had the tiny knob adjusted the whole way (+). Now, I don't seem to need it.

I have had the same two D800s (1-D800, 1-D800E) for 6+ years now, and I have always felt that they had exactly matching viewing optics. 
In my experience on 3 copies of the camera, the design of the optics in the D800/E finder is/was a trouble spot for Nikon. Uneven sharpness across the frame, the necessity to change the diopter setting depending on which area of the frame one wants to look at, and an seemingly uneven curvature of field are issues not present in my previous D3 cameras.
NOTE: As my own presbyopia progresses, the declining ability of my eyes to accommodate (adjust focus) plays a role in any interface with camera finders.
As is typical for all modern Nikon auto focus cameras, the ability to exactly fine focus by eye is limited when hand-holding the camera.  The fine-grain nature of the focusing screen requires one to focus on extremely fine details which are naturally obscured by camera shake unless the camera is on a tripod.  With the camera locked down and assuming the presence of suitably small details in the scene, eye focus with my D800s can be completely accurate.
I agree with Øivind that shutter speed as low as 1/250 are problematic for fast moving subjects such as small birds.

[Jack Dahlgren]

I have had the same two D800s (1-D800, 1-D800E) for 6+ years now, and I have always felt that they had exactly matching viewing optics. 
In my experience on 3 copies of the camera, the design of the optics in the D800/E finder is/was a trouble spot for Nikon. Uneven sharpness across the frame, the necessity to change the diopter setting depending on which area of the frame one wants to look at, and an seemingly uneven curvature of field are issues not present in my previous D3 cameras.
NOTE: As my own presbyopia progresses, the declining ability of my eyes to accommodate (adjust focus) plays a role in any interface with camera finders.
As is typical for all modern Nikon auto focus cameras, the ability to exactly fine focus by eye is limited when hand-holding the camera.  The fine-grain nature of the focusing screen requires one to focus on extremely fine details which are naturally obscured by camera shake unless the camera is on a tripod.  With the camera locked down and assuming the presence of suitably small details in the scene, eye focus with my D800s can be completely accurate.
I agree with Øivind that shutter speed as low as 1/250 are problematic for fast moving subjects such as small birds.

One reason I love the Z6 is that you can zoom the finder to 50%, 100% or 200% to confirm focus. As my eyes get older this is really helpful. Choosing a zoom level appropriate to lens, subject and motion is essential though so I've got mine set with buttons for all three of those magnification ratios.

[Steven Paulsen]

A  Z camera is at least, a bit out of my realm. (Another electronic Television Display.) DT will take over that one soon too. I love a mirror that does not show Me
Above was in humor. Sorry. Feel free to edit the above.

Pluton,
You somewhat "Nailed It," with your description. Focus is not even depending on which area of the frame I am concentrating on.

The other thing I am noticing is, on most of the other Nikon bodies I have laying around, I can mount a lens that is not in focus, turn the diopter adjustment so I can see the "Info Display" as sharp as possible. Then use AF or even manually focus a subject and the diopter adjustment remains the same. (All is good in both worlds.)
I could not quite figure out what was going on, as this D800E was a lot more obvious than My D800. The D800E is at least two clicks different, either focusing on subject or on the shooting display.

I mounted the camera on a pod, used a 300mm and a soup can for reference. (Yes, I have an old Snellen eye chart.) I used Live view to manually focus, then tuned the diopter adjustment to match. The +1 diopter gave me a lot more adjustment room to spare, adjusting that tiny dial.

I have been wearing progressive/no line bifocals for 20 years & I am well aware of the up or down placement of the spectacle lens. It was a joy to shoot spectacle free using a contact lens. I'm not up to driving a car in that mode, so far.
Thanks Again,
Steve
(Birds are not the problem. It's me and another confounded machine.)

[Wally]

Within the same topic but relating to the Df: does anyone have experience with a broken diopter adjustment knob? Suddenly I can turn the knob from one limit to the other but nothing changes. No damage, drop, or whatever. It seems some internal coupling got broken.
Any advice? Is the only option to send it in for CLA?

[pluton]

The step-adjusting diopter mechanisms are a cheap solution.  The diopter should be on a continuous but lockable adjuster.  It'd probably add US$50 to the cost of the body.
Wally, it sounds like your Df has a date with the repair man.

[Steven Paulsen]

The step-adjusting diopter mechanisms are a cheap solution.  The diopter should be on a continuous but lockable adjuster.  It'd probably add US$50 to the cost of the body.
Wally, it sounds like your Df has a date with the repair man.

<chuckle>
I have an old AO doctor's trial lens fitting set. (100+diopters, astigmatism, prism.) I have 1/8 step + Plus and - Minus, lenses. (Some people have a higher sensitivity and can define with an 1/8 diopter vision difference.)  I agree, the 11 step click adjustment could really be a lot better. I don't have the handbook handy, but I think it adjusts from -2, to +1.

[mxbianco]

... I agree, the 11 step click adjustment could really be a lot better. I don't have the handbook handy, but I think it adjusts from -2, to +1.

Adjustment on D800x is from -3 to +1 (nominally). I have +2.0 vision, but can still adjust focusing having still 2 clicks to go on the + side (on my D810), and with no clicks left on my D500. Both have nominal adjustment between -3 to +1. It's probably possible to change the adjustment dial's setting to extend more on  the minus or on the plus side, but that adjustment is for nerds only... Don't blame me if your camera does not work as expected after taking it apart!

Ciao from Massimo

[pluton]

Everyone finds their own solution with the finder optics.
I add the Nikon DK-17C +2 to my D800 finder.  This places the apparent distance of the finder image at about infinity(instead of the stock 1 meter), which is where I need it to be, since I view the finder through the infinity-correction portion of my glasses. The built-in adjuster of the D800 remains at or near the middle position.