TC-14 + PN-11 + Micro Nikkor 105mm f4,0 Ai + K3 + 105 P for bellows?

[Gigas]

TC-14 + PN-11 + Micro Nikkor 105mm f4,0 Ai + K3 ring + Nikkor-P 105mm f4,0 for bellows. That would be a long tube but will it work out för better DOF and sharp images?

[Roland Vink]

The 105/4 micro by itself it a sharp lens, with or without extension.

Bjørn Rørslett notes that this lens works well with the 105/4 bellows lens (see http://www.naturfotograf.com/lens_spec.html) :

A terrific macro capacity can be given this lens by mounting the short-mount Bellows 105mm f/4 onto its front thread. The lens head should not be reversed in this case, contrary to usual practice, and is easily attached to the 105 Micro by using the K3 ring. This setup yields 1-2X magnification without any light loss at all so effectively equals a 50 mm f/2 lens! The viewfinder is brilliantly clear and focusing the package is a joy compared to other setups I've tried. I have obtained my sharpest insect photos ever using this combination. The only drawback is that the working distance can be a little on the short side for shy objects.

I'm not sure what you mean by better DOF, when photographing at high magnifications the DOF is always very narrow. Stopping down helps but you can quickly run into problems with diffraction. Carefully aligning the focus plane with the subject, and/or focus stacking seem to be the best options.

The TC-14 will increase magnification by 1.4x but I expect some loss in quality.

[Bjørn Rørslett]

If the parts are at hand, cobble them together and give this setup a field run. Might not be the easiest way of getting 3X outdoors though, but well worth a try.

(busy with a consultant's report these days, so have to leave the task to anyone interested)

[Gigas]

Is there any way to increase the WD with these two lenses stacked with a K3 ring? It is a tight fit and the rubber sunshade hit the front glass on my aquarium.

https://flic.kr/p/XhRbxH

[Bjørn Rørslett]

The Olympus OM 38 mm f/2.8 can deliver around 3X and has a quite comfortable working distance (WD). This lens is surprisingly sharp on a modern DSLR, by the way, and as far as "macro" lenses go, also rather compact. I'm using it on a daily basis now for aquarium photomacrography.

You can get about the same WD or even longer with the combination of an infinity-corrected objective such as those from the Mitutoyo M Plan APO series in conjunction with a tube lens. However, the overall rig length can be of concern and bespoke support might have to be arranged for it. Using this for 10X shooting of micro aquaria (in combination with a Stackshot rail), awaiting the 5X Mitutoyo these days.

[Gigas]

I love the combination of the two stacked Nikkor 105mm lenses but could a speed booster help to widen the focal length?

[Bjørn Rørslett]

The TC is anything but a "speed booster". In fact, it is a "speed loser"

One has to strike a balance between conflicting requirements. Longer working distance and keeping a high magnification entails a longer focal length. Shortening the focal length might give more magnification, but concomitantly the working distance will decline.

The "infinity" approach I outlined previously has a nominal focal length of 200 mm and thus can allow 34 mm working distance at 10X. According to the spec sheets the same applies to the 5X version as well.

[Gigas]

Well, it was the speed booster I was thinking about and not the TC but understand that there is no way to increase the WD with the stacked old Nikon lenses. What would the total focal length be, is 2 x 105mm for the combo?

[Bjørn Rørslett]

105 stacked on 105 will probably end up somewhere around 50 mm. You keep the absolute aperture thus gain "speed", but lose out on focal length. No free lunch here.

[Gigas]

Thank you again Bjørn for your information. I got a Canon Macro Photo lens, 35mm 2,8 similar to your Olympus but physical smaller straight in to the camera body with no bellows. Close to the result from the two stacked lenses. Shot at ISO 64 250/sec.and f16. Hard to get the light from the side strobe as the lens shadows the object.

https://flic.kr/p/YkTSSt

[Bjørn Rørslett]

Olympus did advise that at least the 14 mm extension tube was added to their 38/2.8 and 20/2 macro lenses, so these should not be mounted straight onto the camera itself. My observations on the 20/2 and 38/2.8 bear out this recommendation.

The 20/2 will give quite short working distance, but is in no direct need of a lens shade.

Both Olympus lenses need to be modified for use on an F-mount camera as they have automatic aperture operation which is splendid on their designated native camera, but prevents the actual aperture being reached otherwise.  Modification is simple: just rip out all the couplings for the aperture stopping down feature. Pull in the right spot and all bits and pieces to be removed come out together. Including a number of tiny ball bearings if you are puzzled by the popping and clicking sounds these make as they became free and disperse themselves all over your work place

The Olympus duo performs best only 1 stop down from wide open. Thus I only use them at that setting. If you need more depth of field, focus stacking is the way to go unless you have a skittish subject of course.