Best camera choice for close-ups

[Bjørn Rørslett]

Can't think of many functionality regarding the whole 'LiveView' option. The idea of Photography is to adjust the camera to the image you want and hit the shutter? And check the image afterwards for any possible improvements?

The finder system might not be up to the task of providing critical focus. Then, LiveView might be the feature required to get the shot.

In the old days, you could change screens to make focusing accurate in conjunction with an alternate finder. Now, these days, Liveview plays the same role.

[John Geerts]

Thanks for the clarification, Bjørn.  Do you perhaps have some examples in which case the focus can be that critical? In case of macro-details? Or Special lenses?

[ArendV]

However, with the CX camera you might only capture the head of a bug, while the FX gives you the entire bug plus possibly part of the setting.

But in a lot of situations you can move the CX camera a bit backwards to get a broader view.
Decreasing magnification & resolution is usually easier than increasing it.

[Bjørn Rørslett]

Once you move in towards 1:1 or beyond, focusing is always critical.

Around 3:1, about the maximum you can deal with using a hand-held camera, depth of field is down to the breadth of a human hair.

[Bjørn Rørslett]

But in a lot of situations you can move the CX camera a bit backwards to get a broader view.
Decreasing magnification & resolution is usually easier than increasing it.

The experience from practical close-up photography and photomacrography is you tune the used magnification to the format. For example, when I used 24x36 (today's 'FX') and 6x9 concurrently, you would shoot 1:1 with the 24x36 system and 3X with the 6x9. You got better details with the 6x9 and less depth of field. Thus there would always be a balance here to strike.

Automated setups for focus stacking have changed the approach significantly, but still there will be conflicting interests at play.

[ArendV]

I would be interested in your 3x setup, I assume it includes a bellows?

[Bjørn Rørslett]

I wouldn't do 3X with a 6x9 camera hand-held. It is too awkward using a technical view camera in that manner. However, in a studio setting there would be little problems. Or I could switch to my Nikon Multiphot photomacrographic camera and use the Macro-Nikkors in leaf shutter mount.

For 3X with the DSLRs, I'm using a rig with an Olympus 38 mm f/2.8 macro lens. Once in a while even shorter lenses, such as a Macro-Nikkor 19 mm f/2.8 or Canon 20 mm f/3.5. I probably should track down an Olympus 20 mm f/2. I use the Olympus simply because it has a sensible size to allow me to operate it with gloves on. That is less easy with the other alternatives such as the Macro-Nikkors (apart from the 65/4.5 Macro-Nikkor, but that one is better used with the Multiphot).

Do note the ring arrangement and the protruding stub in front. This acts as a combined stray light baffle and a holder for the SB-21 ring flash. The perfect setup for easy hand-held photomacrography. Still, there will be a lot of captures outside the optimal focus, but getting the keepers is no longer verey taxing as only patience is required.

[ArendV]

Thanks Bjørn, nice setup with the Olympus 38mm !

This is my 2x magnification setup with the Olympus 80mm.



But I guess we are off topic on Andrea's question: What is the best camera for close-ups?

[Bjørn Rørslett]

"But I guess we are off topic on Andrea's question: What is the best camera for close-ups?"

Such discussions always meander back and forth. It's their force and weakness combined.

As to Andrea's question: I feel the upcoming D500 might well be the answer. It has a decent resolution, state-of-the-art sensor and the associated dynamic range and ISO capabilities, has a tiltable screen to save some lower back pain (if you shoot in landscape mode, otherwise you have to contort your body into even worse shapes), and is robustly build for real field use. The D810 might make a tie, but not convinced about its qualities as a field camera.

Mirrorless cameras are a pain to use in sunlight and their EVF is not kind to ageing eyes. Besides, they tend to be small and fiddly to operate. You really need a camera that packs heft and sufficient size into one.

[Michael Erlewine]

I found the LiveView of any of the larger Nikon DSLRs not usable IMO for close-up work. The Nikon D810 is usable, not perfect, but good enough that I use it all the time, although it really eats up the batteries.

The title of this blog is "Close-Ups," but we are discussing more macro or above, right?

[Bjørn Rørslett]

Knowing Andrea, 'close-up' work is most relevant. The Coastal 60 lens she mentions stops at 1:1.5, and the UV-Nikkor only  goes to 1:2 on its own (1:1 with the PN-11). The 60 Micro-Nikkor extends to 1:1.

[Bjørn Rørslett]

.... the Nikon D810 is usable, not perfect, but good enough that I use it all the time, although it [Liveview] really eats up the batteries.

You should run the camera from an A/C power source then.

The battery chamber insert:
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/742056-REG/Nikon_27014_EP_5B_Power_Supply_Connector.html

and the A/C adapter itself
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/820410-REG/Nikon_27055_EH_5B_AC_Adapter_for.html

[Erik Lund]

I looked at the D800 and D800E when they came out I also recall playing around with the one JA had,,, Several points where I was less enthusiastic have be addressed to according to the reviews so maybe I should have a closer look at the D810 if it really is that good,,,

I must admit; D810 is really good,,, This was an expensive thread 

[Andrea B.]

Thanks everyone for their replies!

I must admit; D810 is really good,,, This was an expensive thread