NikonGear'23
Gear Talk => Lens Talk => Topic started by: richardHaw on March 11, 2021, 02:44:18
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anybody here who is knowledgeable about this combination? planning on using Cine-Nikkor lenses :o :o :o
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Rick, in case you haven't read articles like this wrt the diameter of the C mount lens barrels...
http://bigstreetguns.com/2016/05/be-careful-when-buying-a-c-mount-adapter-for-m43-and-nikon-1/
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Then, FYI, I found this, although it would not be something you are looking for...
https://www.ave.nikon.co.jp/n-eng/catalog/c-nikon1mount1.2x.pdf
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that is very 面倒くさい. are there any machine shops here in Tokyo that accepts this kind of work? It is easy to find elsewhere. if not I will have to do it with a dremel. :o :o :o
how about focus magnification? i have read that the J3 will allow that without using the russian chip. ::)
if i cannot do that then it is a bit pointless
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that is very 面倒くさい. are there any machine shops here in Tokyo that accepts this kind of work? It is easy to find elsewhere. if not I will have to do it with a dremel. :o :o :o
how about focus magnification? i have read that the J3 will allow that without using the russian chip. ::)
if i cannot do that then it is a bit pointless
I used J1 with Nikkor Ai 300/4.5 and TC-14B via FT-1 adapter. It only allowed manual mode (no automatic exposure modes or even the manual metering was possible), but I could magnify the image to focus...IIRC. ::)
Sorry I haven't used any third party dumb adapters with J1 or V1 that I had, but because of the reason mentioned above, I didn't bother to try to use any c-mount lenses. I did buy a FOTODIOX c to m4/3 adapter whose c-mount part is recessed and accepts a lens up to about 32mm in diameter.
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because the Nikon FT-1 has a chip :o :o :o
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Well I use the Cine Nikkors with excellent results on my mirrorless camera, as they need a camera
with a short register length. Worked well from 25mm focal lengths onwards. Sold my set later as
I got a darn good offer from an Indy film maker for my set... ;-)
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Well I use the Cine Nikkors with excellent results on my mirrorless camera, as they need a camera
with a short register length. Worked well from 25mm focal lengths onwards. Sold my set later as
I got a darn good offer from an Indy film maker for my set... ;-)
whats a good adapter :o :o :o
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There are also TV-Nikkors and broadcast Nikkors in the B4 mount. That's not what you had in mind, Rick?
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Nikon Z mount has the shortest flange back among the current major mirrorless mounts which is 16mm. The flange back of c mount is 17.526mm and that of D mount, 12.29mm. Chances may be that a c to Z mount adapter doesn't need to have the c mount to be recessed.
So,you may want to wait for someone to make a c to Z mount adapter and get a Z50.
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Nikon Z mount has the shortest flange back among the current major mirrorless mounts which is 16mm. The flange back of c mount is 17.526mm and that of D mount, 12.29mm. Chances may be that a c to Z mount adapter doesn't need to have the c mount to be recessed.
So,you may want to wait for someone to make a c to Z mount adapter and get a Z50.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/C-mount-lenses-to-Nikon-1-adapter-with-AF-EXP-chip-Gfoto/224314845437
what about this one? do you think the base is wide enough? :o :o :o
i also bough a C-D adapter ::)
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https://www.ebay.com/itm/C-mount-lenses-to-Nikon-1-adapter-with-AF-EXP-chip-Gfoto/224314845437
what about this one? do you think the base is wide enough? :o :o :o
i also bough a C-D adapter ::)
I’m not sure. The actual diameter of the recessed part differs from adapter to adapter. The diameter of Nikon 1 mount seems to be a bit larger than that of m4/3, though.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lens_mount#cnote_A
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Also watch the negative feedback for this ebay seller. The first two I viewed was about the C-mount to Nikon1 adapter that chip was not working.
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The 'gofoto' chip is very flimsy, difficult to seat properly, and ever so often fail over time. I had a few of these in the early stages of development and gave rather acerbic feedback to the company.
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i wonder...so i wont get any focus magnification without the chip? :o :o :o
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So what you want it to just use a cine lens on a Nikon 1 body?
I have used manual nikkors without a chip via the FT-1 converter but FT-1 as contacts.
Nikon 1 bodies also work on a scope for digi-scoping via the DSA-N1 adapter which has contacts also.
So both FT-1 and DSA-N1 adapter has contacts at the Nikon 1 body side therefor I am in doubt if Nikon 1 body needs to "see" something attached so Nikon 1 body is "fooled" to believe a lens is attached?
A shame Nikon 1 system ended. It was nice and compact and sensors got better and better from V1 to J5. Also a shame with the investment in Nikon 1 equipment that can only be used with Nikon 1 bodies.
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i wonder...so i wont get any focus magnification without the chip? :o :o :o
That is correct. Nikin has dumbed down the functionality of their 1-series models. Not their wisest move I think.
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so is there a way to fool it? I dont want to salvage expensive Nikon adapters for the chips :o :o :o
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K&F sells passive adapters to mount on Nikon 1 cameras like this M42 adapter til Nikon 1 mount:
https://dk.kentfaith.com/nikon-1/KF06.116_m42-linser-til-nikon-1-mount-kamera-adapter
It should indicate that a pure passive adapter can be used with 3. party lenses without any electronics?
But K&F does not make a cine-lens to Nikon 1 adapter.
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It should work and Fotodiox makes a C-mount adapter.
This video shows a list of adapters made for Nikon 1 and there is also a demonstration of a pure passive adapter used with a Canon EOS lens:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qNYNmqqQlA8
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Also maybe something to look at here to be inspired from?
http://www.francperet.com/2014/10/01/nikon1-v1-and-cine-lenses/
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The passive C-mounts adapters are quite cheap......
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/C-Nikon1-C-Mount-Adaptor-fits-Cine-CCTV-Lens-to-Nikon-J1-V1-J2-V2-J3-V3-UK-STOCK-/193194567378
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https://www.ebay.com/itm/AF-EXP-chip-for-Nikon-1-Gfoto/324451282654?hash=item4b8acdaede:g:xw0AAOSwK-xf~r0v
looks like there's no alternative but this russian guy (Gfoto) :o :o :o
how sad
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Yes, there is an alternative just getting a pure C-mount adapter without any electronics as this ebay link:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/C-Nikon1-C-Mount-Adaptor-fits-Cine-CCTV-Lens-to-Nikon-J1-V1-J2-V2-J3-V3-UK-STOCK-/193194567378
Then you just need to set the Nikon 1 to manual mode. Then you can take pictures.
This fellow just uses a passive adapter using his cine nikkors:
http://www.francperet.com/2014/10/01/nikon1-v1-and-cine-lenses/
I also tried setting my Nikon 1 to M-mode and I can take images without a lens attached.
How do you got to the conclusion that the Russian guy is the only alternative? :-)
Is that because you need to take pictures in e.g. A-mode?
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yes, A-mode will be very helpful :o :o :o
whats more important is so i could magnify the view ::)
can you please tell me which body you are using? I read that some wont allow use with manual lenses with a dumb adapter and will show a "lens not attached error"
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Normally I use A-mode (in this case a J4) shows an error if I remove the lens but if I switch to M-mode I can take images without a lens attached (just the sensor).
I think in M-mode all Nikon 1 should work. I can try my J5 also and the fellow on link above uses his V1 with his cine-Nikkors. So also work using V1.
The magnification you talk about that is not just the 2.7x factor you get compared to FX sensor?
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The J5 is easier as it has a PSAM wheel so I just set it to M and it works without a lens.
Then shutter time is set using the "thump-wheel".
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thank you. i may be buying a J5 because thats the only reasonable option available to me cost-performance wise. ::)
the V3 is awesome bbut still expensive. :o :o :o
what i meant by magnification is the one like in the Z cameras, i could magnify the image so i could see things better when focusing, not crop factor.
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I got a relative cheap J5. Picture quality is quite good. Especially with 18.5/1.8 lens.
The viewfinder magnification may still work in pure manual mode?
Don't know if I can test it when I have not lens on.....maybe try to hold a lens in front of the sensor.....
Do you have the Cine-Nikkor 50/1.8 or which do you have? :-)
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I got a relative cheap J5. Picture quality is quite good. Especially with 18.5/1.8 lens.
The viewfinder magnification may still work in pure manual mode?
Don't know if I can test it when I have not lens on.....maybe try to hold a lens in front of the sensor.....
Do you have the Cine-Nikkor 50/1.8 or which do you have? :-)
well, just see if you could magnify without anything attached and see if it works (i hope it does, for both our sake) ::)
i have a 13/1.9 and a 38/1.8 that i dismantled but got lazy to put back (for years now) :o :o :o
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Ok....will try it out when I am back from work..... :-)
The images with Cine-Nikkors seems to have a nice warm "touch".
Maybe this is a signature of vintage cine lenses like the Super-Baltar?
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Focus magnification is not possible with no lens attached on J5 (or a lens without contacts is mounted).
It need to be in MF-mode to do this and this menu item is "grayed out" (not active) when no lens is attached.
What Nikon should have done was to "auto switch" to MF when no lens was attached so you could press the OK button to activate focus magnification. When a lens without contacts is mounted MF is the only way to focus anyway. Probably only a question of a small firmware update :-)
But you can take pictures with Cine-Nikkors using the passive adapters but I guess that was not the purpose.
You can always take a picture and the during playback zoom into the image to check sharpness.
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Focus magnification is not possible with no lens attached on J5 (or a lens without contacts is mounted).
It need to be in MF-mode to do this and this menu item is "grayed out" (not active) when no lens is attached.
What Nikon should have done was to "auto switch" to MF when no lens was attached so you could press the OK button to activate focus magnification. When a lens without contacts is mounted MF is the only way to focus anyway. Probably only a question of a small firmware update :-)
But you can take pictures with Cine-Nikkors using the passive adapters but I guess that was not the purpose.
You can always take a picture and the during playback zoom into the image to check sharpness.
that's going to be a pain for writing reviews :o :o :o
maybe i should gamble with the russian one?
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You can ask if he has solved the problems previous seen?
It seems a "DIY" chip exists for own installation if the GFotoStore chip does not work?
https://www.dpreview.com/forums/thread/4222851
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More info here about the problems with Gfoto adapter:
https://www.dpreview.com/forums/thread/4197350
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Even the "DYI" version can, and eventually will, cause compatibility issues. I had to put a strip of tape across he contacts when the chip ceased to function, as prying it loose was not an option (in this particular case). I still have a few of these chips unused and floating around in the odds-and-ends bins, but am reluctant to try over again.
Really a pity as the chip appeared as the perfect solution to a maker's dumbing-down decision.
Erik did modify my FT1 adapter so it could feed the camera through one of my own programmable chips. That solved the use of non-chipped lenses with F mount, however those are just a few of the various lenses eligible for the CX cameras. Meanwile i have this "cyber-punk" version of the FT1 with a switch on top of it :)
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Even the "DYI" version can, and eventually will, cause compatibility issues. I had to put a strip of tape across he contacts when the chip ceased to function, as prying it loose was not an option (in this particular case). I still have a few of these chips unused and floating around in the odds-and-ends bins, but am reluctant to try over again.
Really a pity as the chip appeared as the perfect solution to a maker's dumbing-down decision.
Erik did modify my FT1 adapter so it could feed the camera through one of my own programmable chips. That solved the use of non-chipped lenses with F mount, however those are just a few of the various lenses eligible for the CX cameras. Meanwile i have this "cyber-punk" version of the FT1 with a switch on top of it :)
its actually a very stupid decision, nikon could have sold the 1 much better if they did not cripple it and made it more competitive with 4/3. now i am thinking of getting an OM-D instead but the size of the sensor is much bigger than D/C mount, making it pointless for my reviews as I dont want to crop all my photos :o :o :o
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Erik did modify my FT1 adapter so it could feed the camera through one of my own programmable chips. That solved the use of non-chipped lenses with F mount, however those are just a few of the various lenses eligible for the CX cameras. Meanwile i have this "cyber-punk" version of the FT1 with a switch on top of it :)
It's rather well documented in this thread:
https://nikongear.net/revival/index.php?topic=479.msg3573#msg3573 (https://nikongear.net/revival/index.php?topic=479.msg3573#msg3573) or skip down to:
https://nikongear.net/revival/index.php?topic=479.msg3577#msg3577
Looking forward to more NikonGear workshops like this!
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If I attach the FT1 adapter to J5 and attach a pure manual lens. Then "everything" works (apart from correct EXIF data). I used A-mode and focus magnification works. Camera made correct exposure.
So what do you gain with the surgery of the FT-1 adapter? .....is it only to get correct EXIF?
I assume that if I used an AFD or AFS lens then EXIF data would also be correct.
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Not sure what models of Nikon 1 has Focus peaking with non chipped lenses, but I believe V1, V2 and V3 didn't have it,,, Correct me if wrong
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i want to know the name of who is in charge of the Nikon 1 department and give him a good slap with a salmon :o :o :o
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What is especially nice the way J5 works with focus magnification is that after focus is done at the magnified view then when shutter is slightly depressed then view goes back to normal so correct framing can be done before exposure. I miss that feature on Z50.....it stays at magnified view during exposure unless the "minus" is depressed until zooming out to normal view before exposure.
I you can get the source code and development system for the Nikon 1 cameras then we can develop our own firmware for those cameras....?
For Z cameras is it probably not possible......yet...... :-)
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If I attach the FT1 adapter to J5 and attach a pure manual lens. Then "everything" works (apart from correct EXIF data). I used A-mode and focus magnification works. Camera made correct exposure.
So what do you gain with the surgery of the FT-1 adapter? .....is it only to get correct EXIF?
I assume that if I used an AFD or AFS lens then EXIF data would also be correct.
"Everything works" is in the eye of the beholder :) You are restricted to A and M exposure modes and there is no relevant EXIF data registered. With any properly "chipped" F-mount lens on the FT1 you will get focal length, max. /min. and actual aperture in addition. Which precisely is the data often required when you do experimental work.
I did make a bespoke Nikon (CX) - (RF) adapter for my small 1 series Nikons so as to use the old RF Nikkors, and the not-so-old Voigtländers on them. Complete with the goFoto chip in fact the only one working at present.
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I have to arrest myself. There is another functioning goFoto chip which I had forgotten all about -- as it is permanently grafted onto one of my TV Heligon glass monsters. Thus I can get proper exposures with this überfast lens on the CX cameras.
Makes a nice contrast to the little, pink J2.
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So there is still hope for Richard?
If I had Cine Nikkors I would get a passive adapter anyway just to try it out.....even that it had to be pure manual operation.
Still it is possible to focus in just normal view and exposure is quite easy with digital cameras where the result is instant visible.
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Not sure what models of Nikon 1 has Focus peaking with non chipped lenses, but I believe V1, V2 and V3 didn't have it,,, Correct me if wrong
I do not think any of the Nikon 1 models has focus peaking.
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No focusing peaking in the traditional sense, however there is an indicator with arrows and a dot (using the goFoto chip). The stock cameras show green squares when focus is attained.
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ok, not going to gamble with the Gfoto, read a blog in Japanese and the guy who bought it was pissed :o :o :o
it also drains t he battery which hints that it creates a short ::)
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The cuteness factor of the pairing of a pink 1 Nikon J2 with the formidable Ultra-Micro-Nikkor 55mm f/2 lens cannot be denied. In fact, the image circle of the UMN 55 fits the small CX format perfectly so there is corner-to-corner sharpness and no detectable light fall-off. The shorter UMN 28mm f/1.8 has a more limited range of applicability as it vignettes plus the working distance tends to be extremely short.
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i got a J4 for a reasonable price :o :o :o
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It it a nice camera. Quite "stylish" and front part made of metal.
Batteries a bit larger than for the J5.
The PSAM setting is to be found in the Creative setting on top wheel.
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all i have to do now is wait for my damn chinese adapter to arrive :o :o :o
i think i will be skipping the chip, too risky. ::)
funny how the used prices of Nikon 1 lenses and the FT1 rose to 30-40% more from their original price in the shops when they were still sold NEW.
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I have tried to get a 10/2.8 at around $80 incl. shipping but not succeeded yet.
It will make the J4 very compact and nice to have a lens with a metal mount.
The advantage of the 10-30 zoom is that it has built-in VR. Those seems to be quite cheap probably because it was a kit-lens and 10/2.8 was not.
32/1.2 expensive and also the 70-300. Think both has metal mounts.
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,,,
32/1.2 expensive and also the 70-300. Think both has metal mounts.
As always you can rely on Rolands pages for such information
http://www.photosynthesis.co.nz/nikon/specs.html#1NIKKOR
PM is indication of Plastic Mount
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The kit zooms, 10-30 and 11-27.5, are respectable performers as far as optics go, however they tend to wear out quite quickly due to the internal components being of poor quality. When this happens the lens will cease to operate properly and often will stop exposing the pictures correctly, or lock up the camera. Sometimes this happens towards only for one end of the zooming range, until the lens just dies eventually.
I have seen similar with the 10-100 zooms as well, but not with the 6.7-13 zoom, the latter being a very snappy and solid performer. The fixed focals, 10/2.8, 18.5/1.8, and 32/1.2, are all good and have the metal lens mount.
It is really saddening that Nikon didn't keep better quality control with this line-up. The CX concept truly deserved better.
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Is it possible to get a metal mount for the 18.5mm lens as I am about 100% sure my has plastic mount (looks like metal but it is fake)?
I was quite disappointed when I observed this.
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Looks like metal to me? I do know for certain the 10/2.8 has metal mount as I have spare parts.
In general the bayonets are designed for a given lens and ought not to be interchanged. Their thickness may not be that much different, but there are flanges shaped differently on the inside.
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Will check later tonight.....maybe I will be positively surprised.......
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i have been looking through the used 1 Nikkor listings. seems like a dead iris is common regardless of lens :o :o :o
even the expensive 32mm has a known iris problem ::)
what was nikon thinking!
thankfully i wont be thinking much about it since i will be using mine with cine-nikkors!
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All claims that 18.5 has metal mount (so I guess it is) and seems to be able to take some "abuse"?
At least it was a step-up in image quality compared to the 10-30 PD zoom.
http://bigstreetguns.com/2013/10/nikon-18-5mm-f1-8-review/
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pentax Q10 and adapter ordered (for the little D-mount) :o :o :o
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Congrats with the Pentax!
Probably the J4 will give the better pictures :-)
I checked my 18.5/1.8 again and I am 9.99% sure mount is plastic.....and also the barrel (maybe only 99.8% sure about the barrel).
It has a "warm touch" compared to metal and also a "dump" sound when knocking at it with a finger nail or a piece of metal.
I just wonder why so many could be mistaken…...the logic would say that I am wrong :-)
I put my on a weight an without caps it is 70g.....so same weight as the "metal guys".....
Nikon did a very good job here to make "fake metal".....would be my judgement…...
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chinese adapter arrived. the C-mount one is better than i expected, the C-D one screws-thought the hole :o :o :o
i noticed that it is pointless to attach D-mount lenses to the 1, there isn't enough distance to get to infinity, in fact, very far from it ::) I may get more luck with my Q.
D-mount lenses vignette terribly on the nikon 1.
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Is it the approx. 5mm difference in flange distance that's makes the difference?
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possibly, i dont think it will ever reach that to be honest. the Nikon 1 just couldnt support D-mount properly after testing with my 13mm :o :o :o
this is unknown territory, not a lot of information on the net
http://haniwa.asablo.jp/blog/2019/11/20/9179158
by the way this is the guy thats pissed-off at gfoto ::)
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https://www.flickr.com/photos/minami/albums/72157628619371093/
ok, it's official, D-mount is reserved for my Q :o :o :o
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If you have an adapter like this which converts D-mount to C-mount:
https://fotodioxpro.com/products/d-c-p
...and an adapter like this that convert C-mount to Nikon 1 mount:
https://www.koodinternational.com/16mm-movie-c-mount-lens-to--nikon-1-mount-adapter-j1-v1-113-p.asp
.....would you be able to adjust the flange distance a bit so D-mount lens gets relative close to the sensor of the J4?
....but I guess not enough to get infinity focus.....5mm in flange distance difference between C and D mount is a lot.......
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I checked my 18.5/1.8 again and I am 9.99% sure mount is plastic.....and also the barrel (maybe only 99.8% sure about the barrel).
9.99% isn't very much :) :o
I'm happy to update my site if the plastic mount is confirmed.
All other Nikkors with plastic mount have bare black plastic - no metallic finish which would probably wear off quite quickly - so it would be unusual if it were plastic given its appearance. Maybe someone can extract one of the screws to see if the metal goes right through or is only a surface effect.
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The metal seems to goes through entirely. Wear of the bayonet surface appears identical to what one observes on metal mounts.
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At least it is not chromed brass as on most Nikkors. If is it a metal.....it is soft and light. I still think it is metalized black plastic. I looked in a loupe and think I can se places where bayonet it a bit worn that I can see black plastic :-)
The feel on the touch is a warm feeling.....normally metal feels colder.....by the touch......also when knocking at it with a nail.....the sound is like plastic.
About the bare black plastic......the standard 10-30 PD Nikkor 1 zoom.....has metalized plastic (it looks like metal).....but I think all agrees that this one has plastic mount even that it looks like metal?
We need Richard to make a deep scratch in his 18.5 lens mount :-) ......or maybe the people who thinks it is metal......try a solder iron.....aluminium can take a short test.....but probably not plastic....even that it has a thin metalized layer.....
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i wont scratch it just yet as it is still within warranty. :o :o :o
i dont know, it does feel like a nickel finish, it felt like plastic really but it could be aluminium alloy which feels very much like plastic when touched. ::)
the body is probably some kind of anodized aluminum.
the 32mm on the other hand felt positively made from metal, it felt cold in my hands and the mass confirms it.
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If you have an adapter like this which converts D-mount to C-mount:
https://fotodioxpro.com/products/d-c-p
...and an adapter like this that convert C-mount to Nikon 1 mount:
https://www.koodinternational.com/16mm-movie-c-mount-lens-to--nikon-1-mount-adapter-j1-v1-113-p.asp
.....would you be able to adjust the flange distance a bit so D-mount lens gets relative close to the sensor of the J4?
....but I guess not enough to get infinity focus.....5mm in flange distance difference between C and D mount is a lot.......
i bought these, not useful at all :o :o :o
i wasted my money on the C-D adapter ::)
its wobbly, I may have to add a strip of teflon tape to secure it. it also screws-through if the lens is tiny such as my 13/1.8
waiting for my C-Q adapter. now i know why nobody uses D-mount lenses with the N1, its just not possible, theres not enough clearance on the back. i have an 8mm motion picture camera here and the register is indeed very short, almost 4mm to the film plane or so, the N1 wont have the distance to cover it.
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I still think the mount is plastic.
I have attached an image of the mount of 18.5 and 10-30 PD zoom. It is same "material"......and I think most agrees that the 10-30 zoom has plastic mount?
If you look at top of 18.5 mount there are some black color which I think is black plastic behind the metalized layer......
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I also thought the mount of 18.5 was made of plastic, which I didn't mind.
A plastic mount on a cheap lens (like the ones on the kit lenses for F or Z mounts) is rather prefereble, because the mount will easily break when you hit the lens hard on something, which keep the body intact. The body is usually more expensive than the (kit) lens, and to save the more expensive part is better.
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i think it's made of plastic, after hitting the mount with a screwdriver it made a dull sound :o :o :o
however, aluminum also creates a similar sound ::)
anybody dares to scratch their mount? ::)
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i pulled the trigger and ordered the russian chip, hope i dont get scammed :o :o :o
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https://nikongear.net/revival/index.php?topic=9922.msg169933;topicseen#msg169933
So easy to remove the three screws and take a knife to the rear of the mount :o :o :o
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the C-mount lenses arrived :o :o :o
the cheap chinese adapter were milled in such a way that the lens is facing the wrong way when screwed-in ::) the top-facing part is underneath
one lens focuses to infinity while the other one won't
the D-mount lens is pointless for use with the Nikon 1.
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from the cine-nikkor 25mm f/1.8 :o :o :o
really anooying to use without any focus aid. i can live with exposing manually but its hard without any focus aids since the LCD doesnt have enough resolution ::)
the cine-nikkor 10mm f/1.8 is a swell lens but 4 out of the 6 blades were broken...i dont want to fabricate blades anymore, its too tedious. does anybody here know who fabricates iris blades? I doubt it will be cost effective, maybe i should just do it when i have the time.
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father and son :o :o :o
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i pulled the trigger and ordered the russian chip, hope i dont get scammed :o :o :o
Did you receive the Gfoto chip?
I see they also have a "Nikon F lenses to Nikon 1 adapter with AF/EXP chip". Does anyone have experience with that?
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no news yet, its been a week now :o :o :o
bad service in my opinion ::)
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i think it's made of plastic, after hitting the mount with a screwdriver it made a dull sound :o :o :o
however, aluminum also creates a similar sound ::)
I definitely agree it’s plastic, one of the clause on being at Mount broke off and I epoxied it back together again. Surprisingly has worked flawlessly ever cents but it is definitely plastic.
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an update on my experience with the Russian chip seller Gfoto...
it took around 10 days for them to give me a tracking number after i paid :o :o :o
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Then it will go by train and then by ship to Japan? :-)
I have an item on the way from Russia and it has landed in my country after about 4 weeks.
Then it has to pass customs and then the final delivery. So patience is needed.....but it it is a nice item.....I hope....
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it better be worth it or i will leave a nasty feedback and review! :o :o :o