NikonGear'23
Gear Talk => What the Nerds Do => Topic started by: MEPER on June 12, 2020, 08:42:09
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When I got a TC17E II many years ago I was a bit disappointed that I could not mount it on my AF 300/2.8 D and then just use the lens with MF but have the CPU information from lens to camera.
It is a small tap in the mount of the TC17E that prevents the converter to be mounted. Could I just remove the TC17E mount and grind that tap down and then everything is OK?
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Yes. Same with the TC14E, earlier version.
Two caveats: Firstly, use proper JIS screwdrivers in order not to strip the heads. Secondly, beneath the lens mount there are a surprising number of small items that can fly away, so ensure your working surface will catch such stuff.
Even for somebody with 12 thumbs, like me, the operation took less than 15 minutes.
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Ok, then I should buy a set of JIS bits or a fixed set of these screwdrivers.......
Maybe a Dremel can do the work......or just a small file.......
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Just a small flat metal file will do nicely (that's what I used).
A set of JIS drivers is mandatory if you tinker with [Japanese] lenses.
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I can see that there are many JIS screwdriver sets for sale in UK and advertised to be used for Japanese motorcycles.
They do have size P1 in the set which I assume is the smallest and the one I want to use.
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I went for a set of these (P1, P2, P3):
https://www.cmc-parts.be/tools/jis-screwdriver094259
The "Wessel" brand is Japanese and must be the "right stuff".
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You probably need the smaller sizes, 0 and 00.
Or ask Erik, he knows.
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So a set like this will probably do it:
https://shop.vessel-europe.com/en/product/251389
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When I got a TC17E II many years ago I was a bit disappointed that I could not mount it on my AF 300/2.8 D and then just use the lens with MF but have the CPU information from lens to camera.
Actually your lens is not D.
All the 300mm D, was also AF-I or AF-S and works with the teleconverter.
I can confirm that it is an easy task to remove the tab, when one first have the proper screwdriver. And if one has lenses to use on it, it is well worth the 10-15 minutes job.
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I removed the tabs from both my 17E-II and 14E-III in order to be able to stack them with 20E-III. Easy job.
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Actually your lens is not D.
All the 300mm D, was also AF-I or AF-S and works with the teleconverter.
I can confirm that it is an easy task to remove the tab, when one first have the proper screwdriver. And if one has lenses to use on it, it is well worth the 10-15 minutes job.
Lens is called AF IF ED 300/2.8 ......like this one......so not D as you say.....my is latest version.....which is called "N" for New....as far as I remember. But now it is very old and sold quite cheap so I decided to keep it and have some fun with the lens:
https://radojuva.com/en/2012/11/obzor-nikon-if-ed-af-300mm-2-8/
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I removed the tabs from both my 17E-II and 14E-III in order to be able to stack them with 20E-III. Easy job.
Ok......so something to look forward to when I receive my JIS screwdrivers!
Stacking 17E with 20E?
Then the prime lens has to be very good?
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I now got some JIS drivers. I found out that the Vessel brand is "made in Japan" so probably the "right stuff".
The driver that fits the 4 screws in TC17E was the "0" size driver so the driver with orange grip in the plastic box.
Now all 4 screws are loose and I will do the job when I get time. It was quite easy to unscrew but a bit harder than expected. A firm pressure is needed against the screw.....but everything vent fine.
The larger drivers with blue handles are probably not for Nikkor lenses :-)
I wonder if they can unscrew Philips screws.
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Now I finished the modification and converter works now on AF 300/2.8. I made a test shot. Aperture can be controlled etc.
I need a JIS driver in size "0" with larger handle but the small one did the job. But now I know what is the right tool for this kind of job.
I used a Dremel to remove the tab and same stone as in this video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GEDciXf19jo
In this video he uses heat on screws to burn the glue to it is easy to remove screws (with just a normal Philips driver it seems).
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_fNM2MWO7k4
There are 3 layer of very thin plastic "spacers" under the mount ring. They have to move freely. Think they act like a dust cover? I had a little bit of "fight" with them. But everything went fine in the end.
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In this video heat (using flame heater) is used to burn the glue and not the video I suggested above:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ImDnR8GwJa4
A piece of metal with a hole in is used as heat shield. Probably a good idea.
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Indeed P2 and P3 designates Philips head screw size 2 and 3.
Yes, the plastic discs with notches are designed to keeping large dust particles out, they slide and cover the various openings around the mount, don't mix them up or they wont work as intended.
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It was only the top plastic discs that left totally. It was caused by that the "lock push bottom" fell out. I figured out how the discs should be placed and all 3 discs moves as intended......it seems.
Often things that looks simple from outside becomes a bit more complicated when looking inside :-)
So for next time I have ordered a couple of Vessel P0 and P00 drivers with larger handles so more torque can be applied with lesser effort.