NikonGear'23
Gear Talk => Other => Topic started by: ArthurDent on May 02, 2018, 14:52:22
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I’m in need of a new tripod. My heaviest lens is the 70-200 f/2.8 VR and my camera body is the D500. I’d like one that will allow me to get close to the ground. I’d also like something fairly light but also rigid. I’m not adverse to spending a good bit on it, but if there is a lesser known brand that is comparable to the better known brands at a good price, I’d certainly be willing to save some money. Any thoughts?
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Choosing the right tripod can be exhausting with all the available brands and options, I asked the same question around 2012, got all sort of recommendations and followed none, so, I went to the store web site , select the maximum weight, I picked 5kg x 2 roughly 20lbs, then select the type of head, type of legs, material, etc ...
Picked an off brand tripod - flashpoint is the brand - carbon fiber, with a ball head (arca swiss comaptible), I have traveled all over, dropped it on volcanic rock, get it wet in the ocean, use in really dusty conditions and it is still serving me well , I think I spent about $300 dollars on it, but I do not see that particular tripod online anymore although there are similar alternatives
sorry this is not much help , but wanted to share my experience, only you know what characteristics are more convenient for you
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Choosing the right tripod can be exhausting with all the available brands and options, I asked the same question around 2012, got all sort of recommendations and followed none, so, I went to the store web site , select the maximum weight, I picked 5kg x 2 roughly 20lbs, then select the type of head, type of legs, material, etc ...
Picked an off brand tripod - flashpoint is the brand - carbon fiber, with a ball head (arca swiss comaptible), I have traveled all over, dropped it on volcanic rock, get it wet in the ocean, use in really dusty conditions and it is still serving me well , I think I spent about $300 dollars on it, but I do not see that particular tripod online anymore although there are similar alternatives
sorry this is not much help , but wanted to share my experience, only you know what characteristics are more convenient for you
Thank you, Armando. I’ve been looking online and so far like this one:
https://www.amazon.com/Vanguard-Alta-Pro-263AT-Aluminum/dp/B003BQ1D4C
With this head:
https://www.amazon.com/Sirui-K-10X-Ballhead-Release-Capacity/dp/B004QC1EOO
But I’m certainly open to suggestions.
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The Sirui and Benro ranges are well regarded and can be had in carbon fibre versions as well. This material confers a lot of advantages as regards light weight and stability, plus of course is much more comfortable to handle in cold weather than metal 'pods.
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I have an excellent experience with RRS - Really Right Stuff. Not cheap tough.
http://www.reallyrightstuff.com/tripods/carbon-fiber
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I've been very happy with my Feisol CT-3401 (carbon fibre) tripod for my small Fuji and a Nikon D40. Feisol has a flexible tripod system.
Like you, I wanted a tripod that could get close to the ground. Note that the model I chose has no center column - for increased stability but it makes it slower to work with ... however, it will probably get you closer to ground faster :-)
I have no idea how Feisol compares price wise to the other brands mentioned here.
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Since I stack focus, tripods are very important. I have settled on RRS tripods as being better for my work than the many Gitzo tripods I have from the past. The Series 3 (3-section) tripod with NO center column is what I use. TVC-33. I also use a slightly lighter one, the TVC-23: Versa series 2, 3 sections/leg.
I never use a center column and use the Arca-Swiss Cube-1 on both of those tripods.
But these cost a lot, but are worth it.
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I recently bought myself a large Leofoto branded carbon tripod. Very good, almost perfectly rigid(except at full extension) large but not overly heavy.
I've had good, but third party, experience with the more expensive Benro tripods too. That is via other people.
I've used a Gotzo GT3531 for years now, and while it's ok .. wayyy too much money for it's sturdiness. The Benro equivalent tripods in that size/class are far cheaper.
Spend your money on a high quality head for it. Whether your preference is for a ball head, or whatever .. don't skimp on the head.
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If Sirui has got onto your shortlist, have a look at the web store "photogadget". they supply at the most competitive prices.
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I`d recommend
Feisol Tournament 3442 Rapid
lighweight, cheaper and better than the Gitzos, lets you get close to the ground
compact
(you need a head that fits between the legs when switched to "Tournament" mode
(I am using a Markins Q3 Emile )
no center column of course
That would be the most needed feature
(For that center columns are counterproductive i still dont understand why most tripods aer equipped with this "bug"
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(For that center columns are counterproductive i still dont understand why most tripods aer equipped with this "bug"
Center columns are very useful for precise height adjustments. Not too keen on them for travel/outdoors, but perfectly fine in studio type settings or even outdoors if you don't need to balance long glass.
Basically all my professional friends use tripods with center columns, but they do not shoot wildlife.
cheers
afx
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I demand tripod with rigidity, nothing else matters, period.
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Seapy, what tripod do you use? What head?
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Center columns are very useful for precise height adjustments. Not too keen on them for travel/outdoors, but perfectly fine in studio type settings or even outdoors if you don't need to balance long glass.
Basically all my professional friends use tripods with center columns, but they do not shoot wildlife.
cheers
afx
OK let me explain it a bit more detailed what I mean
First of all I was focused solely on outdoor photography
Yes, center columns provide more commodity and are good for studio work for holding lights, flashes and even cameras ;-). Studio tripods dont need to be lightweight, and wind resistant. Floor vibrations may be a problem but thats a different story. Center columns for a dedicated studio tripod are perfectly OK
Yes center columns can be used outdoor as well. I do a lot with big glass there they are a no go (would not use the Feisol Tournament 3442 Rapid for that although it can take a 200/2 or a 400/5,6 -the Gitzo 1228 i had before [twice as pricey] for the same purpose could not - A Sachtler [ENG2CF] or the Feisol FEISOL CT-3472 RAPID heavy duty are better for that job but not what Arthurs equipment requires.
Center columns are not apt for ground work and you'd need to exchange the column against a short one (like Gitzo used to offer)
When it comes to stability extending the center column somehow turns a tripod into a monopod, it makes it more prone to vibration and wind vibrations though.Yes it can work nevertheless. For dedicated studio tripods the column design is perfectly finde but I wonder why so many tripods that are more on the outdoor side have it as well, see that unbalanced.
BTW For outdoor situations i find a leveling base more useful for precise adjustments than a column.
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LOL! A builders survey tripod, weighs 4.5 Kg and cost a hundred quid 30 years ago, owes me nothing, I have various heads, a Manfrotto video, A Manfrotto ball head and a cheap Chinese head which is pretty rubbish. Also my new panorama head 'with a difference' which is novel to say the least!
I am working on creating my own ball head soon from another chunk of aluminium.
My lightweight tripod is a Kennet Benbo (correct spelling) tripod which is also of a novel design but not quite so rigid as the big one, but serves well enough for flowers, it doubles as a bipod and a monopod. Weighs a mere ~3.8 Kg.
http://www.patersonphotographic.com/product-category/tripods/tripods-tripods/
It is a very versatile tool which can stand in water, a bog or against a wall with aplomb.
Here using it on a lava flow on the Isle of Mull, 2008 photographing a tiny flower.
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/863/40107981670_7f95365fce_o.jpg)
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Spend your money on a high quality head for it. Whether your preference is for a ball head, or whatever .. don't skimp on the head.
I think this is a very good advice.
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LOL! A builders survey tripod, weighs 4.5 Kg and cost a hundred quid 30 years ago, owes me nothing, I have various heads, a Manfrotto video, A Manfrotto ball head and a cheap Chinese head which is pretty rubbish. Also my new panorama head 'with a difference' which is novel to say the least!
I am working on creating my own ball head soon from another chunk of aluminium.
My lightweight tripod is a Kennet Benbo (correct spelling) tripod which is also of a novel design but not quite so rigid as the big one, but serves well enough for flowers, it doubles as a bipod and a monopod. Weighs a mere ~3.8 Kg.
http://www.patersonphotographic.com/product-category/tripods/tripods-tripods/
It is a very versatile tool which can stand in water, a bog or against a wall with aplomb.
Here using it on a lava flow on the Isle of Mull, 2008 photographing a tiny flower.
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/863/40107981670_7f95365fce_o.jpg)
I hope you'll keep us posted with visuals of the ball head build progress as you did with the pano head. More motorcycle tangents too, please. ;D
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I would call the Benbo a "puzzle link of tripod". :o :o :o
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LOL! A builders survey tripod, weighs 4.5 Kg and cost a hundred quid 30 years ago, owes me nothing, I have various heads, a Manfrotto video, A Manfrotto ball head and a cheap Chinese head which is pretty rubbish. Also my new panorama head 'with a difference' which is novel to say the least!
I am working on creating my own ball head soon from another chunk of aluminium.
My lightweight tripod is a Kennet Benbo (correct spelling) tripod which is also of a novel design but not quite so rigid as the big one, but serves well enough for flowers, it doubles as a bipod and a monopod. Weighs a mere ~3.8 Kg.
http://www.patersonphotographic.com/product-category/tripods/tripods-tripods/
It is a very versatile tool which can stand in water, a bog or against a wall with aplomb.
Here using it on a lava flow on the Isle of Mull, 2008 photographing a tiny flower.
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/863/40107981670_7f95365fce_o.jpg)
After reading a few reviews on the Benbo Trekker, I think it is the one I’ll get and I greatly appreciate your post on it. I think I’ll buy the leg set and get a separate ball head for it. Do you happen to know the ball head mounting screw diameters?
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I’m now also looking at this ball head:
https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/822261-REG/Sirui_BSRK20_K_20x_Ball_Head.html
Any thoughts?
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After reading a few reviews on the Benbo Trekker, I think it is the one I’ll get and I greatly appreciate your post on it. I think I’ll buy the leg set and get a separate ball head for it. Do you happen to know the ball head mounting screw diameters?
Glad it was helpful. ;D
Bearing in mind it's many years since I got mine, the design may have changed slightly...
The sliding column has a ¼" Whitworth (UNC) thread at one end and a 3/8" Whitworth (UNC) thread at the other end. They can be used interchangeably, one or t'other.
The only thing which has really failed with mine was the thread in the main, clamp nut stripped, it's aluminium and can be tightened up pretty hard. I simply tapped it out and fitted a Hellicoil insert which renovated the thread perfectly. Any engineering shop should be able to perform the simple operation for a small fee. That repair was about 10 years ago and I think I bought the tripod about 1975 so that makes it at least 43 years old! The concept design is based on the design of field gun folding legs which had to be simple and robust. Not sure it would support a field gun but it has certainly been reliable and robust for me. What clinched the choice for me was seeing the tripod being used by forensic photographers taking evidential photographs in difficult to reach positions.
Adjusting the leg angle can seem a little awkward at first but by swinging the leg, almost any angle can be obtained quite easily.
As for the head, you don't actually 'need' a head. Almost any angle can be obtained without resorting to the expense and added complication of a ball head. Might be an idea to try the bare tripod first. I very rarely use a ball head on mine. Obviously a QR attachment can be useful but for many years I screwed and unscrewed my Bronica S2a on and off the column. I am sure the head you linked to will be serviceable.
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So, I bought the Benbo trekker tripod with the Benbo head on sale for $150 (normally $219) since it was only a few dollars more than the bare tripod not on sale. I also bought the Serui k-20x head for $110, and it comes with a $10 mail in rebate. I’m hopeful it will solve my tripod issues for the foreseeable future. The Benbo head is probably going to end up on my old tripod for use in my photography area (too small to dignify it by calling it a studio). Thanks for your assistance!
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Well done, hope it meets expectations. :D
Perhaps given the very reasonable price I should get the large tripod, could be perfect for me.
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https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/247269-REG/Benbo_BEN102_2_Tripod.html
$180 at B&H here in the States. I don’t know what the shipping would be to the UK, but you could probably find a comparable, or better, deal locally.
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The UK price is £128.33. At 2.5 Meters (101") It's well high enough for most needs, and only a tiny bit heavier than the standard height version.
http://www.patersonphotographic.com/product/classic-benbo-tripod-no-2/
Be interested to hear what you think of the current version.
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The UK price is £128.33. At 2.5 Meters (101") It's well high enough for most needs, and only a tiny bit heavier than the standard height version.
http://www.patersonphotographic.com/product/classic-benbo-tripod-no-2/
Be interested to hear what you think of the current version.
I’ve been watching videos and reading a number of blogs/posts, and it seems to me those who cliticize it for being complicated to set up are overstating their case. It looks fairly simple to me, but I’ll admit looks can deceive, so I'll wait until I’ve got it in hand and have set it up a few times to claim victory.
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Can set it up with my eyes closed, in the dark, and often do (in the dark!).
Thing is it's a bit different mechanically from your conventional three legged tripod. Somebody who doesn't have mechanical aptitude may find it confusing but actually it's a dam site easier to get where you want it than my big one. And it can do many tricks my big tripod will never do. Bipod for a start, very useful for flowers, holds the camera steady sideways but allows you to move in and out to get the best distance without faffing about and much quicker.
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Well, I got my Benbo trekker tripod today and it seems like a very nice tripod. I followed the directions and had no problem setting it up in normal tripod mode. When I extended the legs so as to get close to the floor, I had some difficulty locking it down. That may be just my reluctance to really crank down on the locking handle for fear of stripping the threads or it may just requre a little bit of a break in, I’m not sure. Overall though, I like it a lot, a very nice piece of kit and appears to be well put together.
I also got the Sirui K-20X ball head. This is the first ball head I’ve purchased, so I don’t have any basis for comparison with other brands, but it seems to be a very well constructed piece of gear and seems built to last. I hope so, I’d much prefer to spend my money on trips to take photographs than on the equipment necessary to capture the images. It will require an adaptor to use it on the Benbo, the stud on the trekker is 1/4” dia. and the hole in the K-20X is 3/8” dia., but the adapter is readily available on Amazon. For the present, I am using the ball head that came with the trekker, and will probably use the Sirui on my old tripod.
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I spent a lot of time with the Benbo last night, could not get it to lock in place when down low, so I am sending it back today. I haven’t decided whether I’ll get another or just return it and get the Vanguard tripod I looked at initially.
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I spent a lot of time with the Benbo last night, could not get it to lock in place when down low, so I am sending it back today. I haven’t decided whether I’ll get another or just return it and get the Vanguard tripod I looked at initially.
I have quite a lot of experience with the standard Benbo tripod. It has unparalleled adaptability, but is not particularly stable. I would consider it a special use tripod. For mounting a DSLR the Bembo head is next to useless. This is only my opinion from my use, your use may differ.
Manfrotto tripods get no love on here, but my experience of their high end models has been very positive.
Cheers
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Pretty much all internet wisdom concludes the Gitzo Explorer series as unfit. For low level work, mine is a joy to use as long as I'm not using anything super heavy. (I love mine.)
A D800 with my 85pc workes well & so does the same with my 1kg, Series 1, 90-180. The Acratech Ultimate matches perfectly with this setup. (My concerns are carrying weight & I don't advise it at all for use as a standard set of legs.)
It''s expensive. Troll Ebay for a few months or wait till Gitzo offers a good rebate on their stuff at the NY camera merchants.
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I sent the Benbo back and requested a replacement. There’s a lot to like about that tripod IF it will just lock down when deployed close to the ground, so I’m going to give Benbo another chance and see what happens. If the second sample has the same problem as the first, I’m going to go to plan B, return the Benbo and get a Vanguard. Hopefully, that will not be necessary.
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The Benbo Trekker was pretty much the hype and rage, back in the 90's. They were referred to as "The Dead Goose," hanging from your back. Depending on your home location, I'd consider trying to find an old model. (My guess that there would be less plastic.) The Mom & Pop camera stores in my area, long ago/gone, featured & sold quite a few. I really liked the ground level setup, but at the time, I was hiking or riding a bicycle. I opted for the old Bogen 3021. (The side arm was a horrible add-on & quite clumsy.)
It was also the time when "Mail Order" was from a multi-page ad in Shutterbug or Popular Photography. Naturally, I assumed that the biggest NYC ad with the lowest prices was the best choice.
(If you were local, I'd donate you a Bogen 3001. I broke a tab on the 3021 & the smaller model was a bad decision.)
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Sorry to be late to respond. This is my (sort of) tripod specialized for the low level or table-top photo. It's a combination of Sunwayfoto FB-28 ballhead, Manfrotto DADO parts set for the lighting fixture (in the center), RRS rubber feet for Gitzo/RRS Series 1 tripods and an RRL 3/8" stainless thread to mount the ballhead onto the red ball (two of these are depicted here). It is very solid (I've used it with D610 and Ais 400/5.6 IF ED) and can be disassembled to put the parts into a small soft case for a compact camera.
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That ‘s great, very practical! What is the source for the red ball?
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That ‘s great, very practical! What is the source for the red ball?
Thank you. The red ball comes as part of Manfrotto DADO kit. There are two different DADO kits. The smaller kit consists of a red ball, three black rods and three double-sided bolts, and the larger, a red ball, six black rods and six double-sided bolts. I bought the larger kit.
I came up with the idea when I learned that all threads of DADO parts were the industry standard 3/8". I had loved the idea of Novoflex BasicBall and MiniPod, but had thought that their legs were too long, and the 1/4" thread was recessed, which made the improvised usage with odd parts difficult.
With the larger DADO kit, you can add another rod to make a quadropod and use the combo like this:
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I have a tripod arrangement similar to Akira's. Thank you, Akira-san, for the idea, which I copied from a post you made a while ago.
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I have a tripod arrangement similar to Akira's. Thank you, Akira-san, for the idea, which I copied from a post you made a while ago.
Glad to know that. If you have a monopod, you can add it to the system to make the system more versatile, thanks to its standard 3/8" thread.
To Arthur:
Due to the arrangement of the threads on the red ball, you cannot set three rods so that the ballhead is perpendicular to the plane on which you put the tripod. But this should rather be advantageous when you, for example, push the tripod against a wall or a pole to support the camera/lens combo and switch between the landscape and the portrait orientations.
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I sent the Benbo back and requested a replacement. There’s a lot to like about that tripod IF it will just lock down when deployed close to the ground, so I’m going to give Benbo another chance and see what happens. If the second sample has the same problem as the first, I’m going to go to plan B, return the Benbo and get a Vanguard. Hopefully, that will not be necessary.
Sorry to read this, have't been on the forum for a few days much.
I have just tested my Benbo tripod out of curiosity. I set the height to about 6inches, 150mm under the knuckle then tightened the clamp to 20 Lb/Ft or more modern equivalent 27 Nm. A normal mild steel ISO 10mm bolt should easily withstand 30 Lb/Ft so by no means over tightened. As tight as I can comfortably tighten it by hand with the standard handle.
I then placed a dial gauge indicator (DTI) on the knuckle. I applied 10Kg force down on the centre post which resulted in just over 70 thou deflection, on release the DTI returned to zero. I went on to press down on the centre post until I had almost half an inch deflection registered on the DTI when I released the pressure the DTI returned to about ten thou less than zero, so it might have slipped a smidgins but more likely the carpet was crushed! Bear in mind this wasn't scientific, it was on carpet and my measurements aren't 100%. I don't know how hard I pressed down on the centre column but it must have been between 40 and 50 Kg. I still have the indentation in the palm of my hand from pressing it down.
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/823/41537223444_e597e09404_o.jpg)
Two thoughts pass my mind, firstly you are being too cautious tightening the handle, secondly the new tripod paint may have lower friction coefficient than the paint on mine, what's left of it... From day one I have tightened the handle as tight as I can, if needs be, it was many years before the threads stripped and then, not suddenly. The repair was cheap and actually better than the original, so nothing lost, just stronger and longer lasting.
Incidentally, the red tape on one leg is to remind me which lower leg comes right off, if stuck for a monopod I use that leg together with the centre pole as a short monopod if the need arises.
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Seapy-I had the bolt torqued down as much as I thought I could without damaging anything. I had the legs splayed out about 80 degrees and had the column extended about 3/4 of its full extension at a slight upward angle, maybe 20 degrees or so. It was sitting on a wood floor. Configured thusly, I could get it to go fully flat with just very gentle downward pressure on the column. That doesn’t seem right to me and I wouldn’t feel safe putting my camera on the tripod as I feel it would simply collapse. Certainly, it was nowhere near as rigid as what you describe. I think I just got a bad sample. I’m hopeful the replacement will be better.
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(I love this place.)
That red ball with 3/8" thread could have infinitive possibilities. Just add some super long bolts from the local hardware store. I hope your second Benbo produces smiles & more.
Best Wishes
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That red ball with 3/8" thread could have infinitive possibilities. Just add some super long bolts from the local hardware store. I hope your second Benbo produces smiles & more.
Yes, indeed. Just as B. Rørslett assimilated the Nikon K ring set to the LEGO block, the red ball can be function as the core of the LEGO-like support system according to the imagination of the user.
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B&H received my return and claimed to have sent me an email stating they could not replace the Trekker, no stock. I never got the e-mail. I contacted them today and asked for a refund. I ordered the Vanguard 263AT2 from Amazon, expect to see it in 5-8 business days. Must admit to being somewhat frustrated by B&H.
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Shame.
I have had a minor disaster with mine... I think my son has either stood on it or some similar catastrophe. We went on a trip at the weekend, he loaded the tripod and other gear into the car, when we arrived at the destination, a nature reserve, he announced there was something wrong with the tripod. When he produced it one leg had broken off. >:(
I managed with a bipod for the outing but not really satisfactory. Now I am home I am weighing up how I can repair the broken part. It's a casting, not easy to weld, too fiddly, not likely to be a success. I will, I just need to think how best to do it. Another thread... ::) ::) ::)
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The Vanguard tripod arrived from Amazon last night, and is being returned today. The center column will not rotate at all. The quest to find a decent tripod continues! Albeit, with more than a little frustration on my part.
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The Vanguard tripod arrived from Amazon last night, and is being returned today. The center column will not rotate at all. The quest to find a decent tripod continues! Albeit, with more than a little frustration on my part.
Talk about bad luck with a specific item, hopefully eventually you get a good one
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This is an area where mail order falls flat on it's face.
You need to handle and get close up to tripods, although a simple thing, they all have their own idiosyncrasies, features and foibles, not to mention all our expectations and needs are different.
Whenever I go into a camera shop I have a play with the tripods but to me they are all way too flimsy, the lightweight ones would blow over with the first puff of wind. I love my surveyors tripod and the Benbo for it's versatility and robust construction. The ability to withstand being stood on isn't part of my design criterion. I am sure that's what happened to the broken Benbo leg. >:(
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This is an area where mail order falls flat on it's face.
You need to handle and get close up to tripods, although a simple thing, they all have their own idiosyncrasies, features and foibles, not to mention all our expectations and needs are different.
Whenever I go into a camera shop I have a play with the tripods but to me they are all way too flimsy, the lightweight ones would blow over with the first puff of wind. I love my surveyors tripod and the Benbo for it's versatility and robust construction. The ability to withstand being stood on isn't part of my design criterion. I am sure that's what happened to the broken Benbo leg. >:(
You are certainly right about that! Unfortunately, I live in a smaller city and the last camera shop here closed about ten years ago. We have a Best Buy, but the selection is nothing to write home about, so I usually don't even bother to go inside unless I'm looking for a TV or some other item for which they have decent coverage. I think I'm stuck with Amazon and its ilk.
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So, I made yet another purchase, this one from B&H, since Amazon insisted on charging me for shipping the defective item they sold me back to them. This time, I went up another notch in quality and price and bought this one:
https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1332554-REG/vanguard_alta_pro_2_264ct.html
Carbon, slightly lighter than the aluminum tripod, slightly smaller and twice as costly. I hope this is it, it will be here Friday.
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Arthur, sorry about the failure of your second try.
For the similar usage of my normal size tripod, I purchased an Arca-Swiss multi purpose rail:
http://www.sunwayfoto.com/e_goodsDetail.aspx?gId=1274
I'm still waiting for the rail, but I'm going to attach its one side on my ballhead, and put another (smaller) ballhead on the other side. I expect the whole rig to be like the Bembo tripod.
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Arthur, sorry about the failure of your second try.
For the similar usage of my normal size tripod, I purchased an Arca-Swiss multi purpose rail:
http://www.sunwayfoto.com/e_goodsDetail.aspx?gId=1274
I'm still waiting for the rail, but I'm going to attach its one side on my ballhead, and put another (smaller) ballhead on the other side. I expect the whole rig to be like the Bembo tripod.
Akira- That is a great idea and I will keep it in mind if the third tripod is defective. Would you not also need to buy a short column if you wanted the ability to get close to the ground? Otherwise it would seem that the column would hit the ground if the tripod legs were splayed out unless the column was raised, which would defeat the whole purpose of the rail.
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Any tripod with flexible legs has its minimum stability with the legs fully splayed. Putting something heavy directly on top of the splayed legs might help -- a loaded camera bag springs to mind.
Legs that lock at their upper end seemingly provides more rigidity, but this won't work well unless the surface is perfectly flat like an ice surface (and then the entire tripod will slide around unless you once again put something on it to arrest its movement). A raised mid column will always introduce instability so should be avoided if possible. If the design includes the centre column consider cutting it flush with a hacksaw. Getting a tripod without the column is better.
The likelihood of getting a defective tripod three times in a row is very low. Perhaps expectations as to performance don't match the reality of what those units can deliver?
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Any tripod with flexible legs has its minimum stability with the legs fully splayed. Putting something heavy directly on top of the splayed legs might help -- a loaded camera bag springs to mind.
Legs that lock at their upper end seemingly provides more rigidity, but this won't work well unless the surface is perfectly flat like an ice surface (and then the entire tripod will slide around unless you once again put something on it to arrest its movement). A raised mid column will always introduce instability so should be avoided if possible. If the design includes the centre column consider cutting it flush with a hacksaw. Getting a tripod without the column is better.
The likelihood of getting a defective tripod three times in a row is very low. Perhaps expectations as to performance don't match the reality of what those units can deliver?
Hi Birna-The first tripod (Benbo Trekker) was unstable with just slight, I would estimatel less than 1/2 pound, finger pressure applied to the column. This is in contrast to Seapy’s test using his own Benbo which indicated a much higher load capacity and much greater stiffness as well as the capacity to return to close to the original position when the load was removed, unlike my tripod which simply collapsed. So, I am confident my sample was defective. The second tripod (Vanguard Alta Pro 2+ 263at) came with a defective column pivot release which caused the column to be permanently locked in the upright position. So expectations had nothing to do with it, the tripods were defective. As to the probability of getting three bad tripods in a row, I hope you are right! The third one is on the way and due here this Friday. We shall see! I want to move ahead with my ir experimentation and I really can’t do it without a good tripod.
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Sorry to hear about your experiences -- product control falls prey to austerity programs it appears?
I'm a long-standing user of Sachtler tripods for mange decades, smaller and bigger models yet none of which deserves to be called 'heavy' and none has ever failed. The oldest in current use must be from early '80s. These tripods "just work" and one largely forgets about their presence as they can be set up with such versatility in the field.
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Akira- That is a great idea and I will keep it in mind if the third tripod is defective. Would you not also need to buy a short column if you wanted the ability to get close to the ground? Otherwise it would seem that the column would hit the ground if the tripod legs were splayed out unless the column was raised, which would defeat the whole purpose of the rail.
Arthur, I will receive the rail tomorrow, and post a report here in a few days.
I replaced the central hub of my Gitzo GT3530LS is a systematic model that has no central column. So, it can be set almost flat by spreading the legs fully. Also, I replaced its original central hub with Markins TH-300.
I'll post the image of the whole rig when I test the rail.
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Sorry to hear about your experiences -- product control falls prey to austerity programs it appears?
I'm a long-standing user of Sachtler tripods for mange decades, smaller and bigger models yet none of which deserves to be called 'heavy' and none has ever failed. The oldest in current use must be from early '80s. These tripods "just work" and one largely forgets about their presence as they can be set up with such versatility in the field.
Hi Birna- Your post inspired me to look at Sachtler tripods, and what I found was very nice, and very expensive! So, I fear the only way I will ever own one is if you leave me one of your's in your will (PM me for details as to how to phrase the bequest ;D)!
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Why not try the used market? Unless you "need" the latest and greatest in carbon fiber, with these kind of tripods being nearly indestructible, it should be low risk as long as they come with all the parts. For instance I quickly found this one:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Sachtler-DA-75L-Single-Stage-Tripod-Aluminum-Legs/192211104142?hash=item2cc0acb18e:g:X1oAAOSw9~5ZOKrf (https://www.ebay.com/itm/Sachtler-DA-75L-Single-Stage-Tripod-Aluminum-Legs/192211104142?hash=item2cc0acb18e:g:X1oAAOSw9~5ZOKrf)
(Personally for easy transport I have always felt the crown of the Sachtler type tripods would take too much space when travelling but I have admittedly never handled the smaller ones - I usually stuff my small modified Gitzo 120 Sport unpadded along the side inside my big hiking backpack. Of course that is a reason Sachtler type tripods are so stable - tripods are always compromises).
Also there is a pretty good supply of used Gitzo sport/performance aluminum tripods that could be a good starting point to remove center column and saw off anything that supports it to minimize weight etc - they then usually allow legs to spread all the way out. It would only need a wide washer and a short bolt to attach the head directly to the platform. Red Locktight and Epoxy are good helps to make the crown joints (permanently) not keep coming apart and prevent upper segment of the legs to unscrew. Then if you work in the cold apply bicycle handlebar cork tape to the upper leg section to make handling really comfortable without taking a lot of space. One thing I would have liked though is the twist lock feature on the legs that had not been introduced in these generations of tripods.
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Any opinions on this one...
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Gitzo-Tripod-Very-large-old-school-aluminium-tripod-geared-column/192564773314?hash=item2cd5c141c2:g:Hb0AAOSwjh5bFDSl
Nothing I can't fix...
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Any opinions on this one...
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Gitzo-Tripod-Very-large-old-school-aluminium-tripod-geared-column/192564773314?hash=item2cd5c141c2:g:Hb0AAOSwjh5bFDSl
Nothing I can't fix...
Not sure as it is covered by tape, but it seems to be the cheaper series (or perhaps too old) that does not have the adjustable leg locks. So it might require some mechanical work to spread the legs very wide, and then without any way to lock them. Low cost, but shipping costs are high...
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Thanks Øivind, could probable do something about the spread, although for low work I prefer the Benbo...
What about the telescopic leg extender locks, they seem to be the loose olive type, I have never considers that type to be very robust, unlike the over centre cam clamps with non telescopic legs, which I think Birna's tripods mostly are.
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Any opinions on this one...
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Gitzo-Tripod-Very-large-old-school-aluminium-tripod-geared-column/192564773314?hash=item2cd5c141c2:g:Hb0AAOSwjh5bFDSl
Nothing I can't fix...
Beware "Legs all extend properly but are a bit stiff."
That may mean deformed top tubes and/or multiple bent leg sections.
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Beware "Legs all extend properly but are a bit stiff."
That may mean deformed top tubes and/or multiple bent leg sections.
I hope Arthur doesn't mind me hijacking his thread...
Good point Keith, hadn't thought of bent or deformed leg tubes. That doesn't phase me too much, straightening and re-forming the legs is a challenge I would enjoy.
What's of more concern and I only just spotted it under the tape, is: "Top hinge of one leg repaired with piece of metal." A bit of sheet steel cobbled together and wrapped with insulating tape. The top casting has been broken. Won't weld because the broken off bits will be missing so will need to machine a complete new top hinge, similar challenge to my broken Benbo hinge.
For 99.9% of photographers this is scrap, for me it's an interesting challenge. Guessing the legs may have bent when the top hinge was broken. I can (just about, at the moment) afford £32 for a lathe project with the prospect of a nice old Gitzo tripod at the end of it. Can't see me using the rising column, as Birna remarks, extended columns don't lead to rigidity and rigidity is what I am after. I am assuming the column will remove and leave a ball levelling base?
I have a different task in mind for the sturdy looking column... Mmmm.
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Thanks Øivind, could probable do something about the spread, although for low work I prefer the Benbo...
What about the telescopic leg extender locks, they seem to be the loose olive type, I have never considers that type to be very robust, unlike the over centre cam clamps with non telescopic legs, which I think Birna's tripods mostly are.
The ones on my Gitzo work well enough except for my desire to have a locking mechanism that prevents the outer leg segments to rotate as in many modern tripods (Upper lock must be tightened hard to prevent lower leg segment to rotate when tightening those locks). However the auction states:
"Leg rubbers have been replaced by cloth grips."
I would be skeptic about this as it might be hard to get a good grip compared to the original ribbed rubber grip on the metal locks. There is need to apply some force when tightening those locks.
Also the auction shows that the plastic cover on the platform is cracked. I reused this platform when I cut my Gitzo, mounting it directly to the top surface of the crown. You could of course grind down the cracked plastic and mount the head directly to the remaining aluminum or machine something completely new.
It might be worthwhile to be a bit more patient and keep monitoring on ebay.
Edit: I do not think it has a cup for a leveling base like on the Sachtlers.
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It might be worthwhile to be a bit more patient and keep monitoring on ebay.
Sage advice Øivind! Thank you. Impetuous should be my middle name! ;D
I really want a double top tube tripod, with cam lever clamps like my surveyors tripod but a dedicated photographers device.
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Robert, you could make two monopods from that Gitzo!
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Robert, you could make two monopods from that Gitzo!
LOL! ;D
I already have two monopods, both Manfrotto, one has little legs hidden in the base to act as a sort of tall lighting stand... Very happy with them... Don't need two more! ::)
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I hope Arthur doesn't mind me hijacking his thread...
Hijack away!
Unless you are looking for a project, I’d be in the camp of those who say “keep looking,” there are too many things wrong with that tripod to justify the price. It’s a wreck.
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Hijack away!
Unless you are looking for a project, I’d be in the camp of those who say “keep looking,” there are too many things wrong with that tripod to justify the price. It’s a wreck.
Thanks Arthur!
Projects I have aplenty! A better tripod (intended for photography) than the heavy duty surveyors version I have would be welcome, but at a price which involves my input with the lathe...
No point in having lathe and time if I can't use it to my advantage.
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If my latest tripod (current status: on the truck for delivery today) doesn't work, I may go with a regular tripod and something like this:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Universal-Tripod-Boom-Camera-Extension-Arm-Foldable-Studio-Macro-shooting-TK104/312109609554?hash=item48ab2eb252:g:z40AAOSwX1Za0AnB
Anyone have any experience with this device?
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It achieves a similar effect to the Benbo. The issue with these arms is that they introduce flex into the support. That can have an adverse effect on sharpness, keep the outhang to a minimum.
Until I went mad and bought a stack of Manfrotto RC2 camera mounts I almost never used any ball head on my Benbo, I just screwed the arm into the bottom of the camera and got on with it. It was possible to align the camera very easily without a ball head.
I am gradually switching to the Arca Swiss dovetail rail mount to increase compatibility with my Pano Head and the various rails I am accumulating.
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Also the auction shows that the plastic cover on the platform is cracked. I reused this platform when I cut my Gitzo, mounting it directly to the top surface of the crown. You could of course grind down the cracked plastic and mount the head directly to the remaining aluminum or machine something completely new.
I removed the plastic base from my old Gitzo, and applied a thin layer or gaffer's tape to the flat aluminum disc that sat under the plastic base. Vibration and shake when using a tele lens was instantly reduced by a small amount after having eliminated the plastic base.
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From the rather poor (but typical eBay) images I was left wondering why the base was apparently so fractured, it was instantly listed for replacement, until sense and reason kicked in!
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The multi-purpose rail arrived. I did a quick test of the rig depicted here. The tripod is Gitzo series 3 with Markins hub and RRS feet. The ballheads are Acratech G2 (on the tripod) and Sunwayfoto FB-28 (on the rail) respectively. The two ballheads functioning like two universal joint are so flexible that make the setup of the camera really easy.
Sorry for the smartphone images of terrible quality! I haven't used the rig outdoors yet, but it seems to be stable enough. The third and fourth images are shot with the setup shown in the first image.
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The multi-purpose rail arrived. I did a quick test of the rig depicted here. The tripod is Gitzo series 3 with Markins hub and RRS feet. The ballheads are Acratech G2 (on the tripod) and Sunwayfoto FB-28 (on the rail) respectively. The two ballheads functioning like two universal joint are so flexible that make the setup of the camera really easy.
Sorry for the smartphone images of terrible quality! I haven't used the rig outdoors yet, but it seems to be stable enough. The third and fourth images are shot with the setup shown in the first image.
Akira- That is a very interesting set-up, but not as interesting as the lens on your camera! What is it?
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Akira- That is a very interesting set-up, but not as interesting as the lens on your camera! What is it?
Arhtur, the lens is an old Olympus Zuiko MC Macro 38mm/f3.5. It has an RMS mount and is thus mounted on my D750 via a cone-shape RMS to M42 adapter, an M42 to M39 adapter, Nikon BR-15 M39 to F mount adapter and Nikon M2 extension tube.
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Thanks for that Akira, I like the rail, I have several shorter ones of the 'Sunway' style, I need a couple of 140mm rails but also I very much like that rail, is it 300mm? What I want to do is mount it across the chord of a section of my Pano head curved rail and use it instead of your first ball head on the tripod, to give the essential tilt function for the camera, instead of using the ball head, strikes me as more rigid, if perhaps less adjustable.
Could you please give a link to the supplier of that long rail?
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Third tripod arrived today. Everything appears to work. It locks down rock solid. The column rotates as advertised. Quality appears to be quite good. Sirui ball head mounted with no problems. I am happy. I had a martini with my dinner to celebrate, good gin, olives stuffed with blue cheese. Life is good.
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Arhtur, the lens is an old Olympus Zuiko MC Macro 38mm/f3.5. It has an RMS mount and is thus mounted on my D750 via a cone-shape RMS to M42 adapter, an M42 to M39 adapter, Nikon BR-15 M39 to F mount adapter and Nikon M2 extension tube.
My first slr was an Olympus OM1. I bought it with an Olympus Zuiko 50mm, f/1.4 lens. It was a great camera and a great lens. The lens made quite an impression on me, I felt it was very well constructed and very sharp and still think it could compete quite well with most modern 50mm lenses. So, I applaud your choice of the Zuiko lens.
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Thanks for that Akira, I like the rail, I have several shorter ones of the 'Sunway' style, I need a couple of 140mm rails but also I very much like that rail, is it 300mm? What I want to do is mount it across the chord of a section of my Pano head curved rail and use it instead of your first ball head on the tripod, to give the essential tilt function for the camera, instead of using the ball head, strikes me as more rigid, if perhaps less adjustable.
Could you please give a link to the supplier of that long rail?
Robert, yes, the rail (Sunwayfoto DPG-3016R) is 300mm long from end to end. The suppliers can be easily found on eBay:
https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l1313&_nkw=sunwayfoto+dpg-3016r&_sacat=625
However, their pricings are a bit too high. I bought mine from the authorized Japanese dealer on amazon.co.jp, paid 5,680 JPY with the point return of 1,420 JPY value (so, it was virtually 4,260 JPY).
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My first slr was an Olympus OM1. I bought it with an Olympus Zuiko 50mm, f/1.4 lens. It was a great camera and a great lens. The lens made quite an impression on me, I felt it was very well constructed and very sharp and still think it could compete quite well with most modern 50mm lenses. So, I applaud your choice of the Zuiko lens.
I bought my Zuiko MC Macro for 9,000 JPY. It was second-hand, but much cheaper than its usual price. It actually has a tiny dent on the front element which was the reason for the price but hasn't had any negative effect on the images so far. It was a real bargain!
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Robert, yes, the rail (Sunwayfoto DPG-3016R) is 300mm long from end to end. The suppliers can be easily found on eBay:
https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l1313&_nkw=sunwayfoto+dpg-3016r&_sacat=625
However, their pricings are a bit too high. I bought mine from the authorized Japanese dealer on amazon.co.jp, paid 5,680 JPY with the point return of 1,420 JPY value (so, it was virtually 4,260 JPY).
Thank you for the link, Ouch! The nodal rails I have already bought were about £15 or less? they have a clamp at one end, much more complicated.
The metal will be about £8 per metre, unless I use some more of the large slab I already have. I can machine the dovetail grooves myself. That way I get a cleaner, stronger rail without all the holes, which I don't need.
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I bought my Zuiko MC Macro for 9,000 JPY. It was second-hand, but much cheaper than its usual price. It actually has a tiny dent on the front element which was the reason for the price but hasn't had any negative effect on the images so far. It was a real bargain!
I spotted this:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Olympus-OM-system-Zuiko-MC-38mm-F3-5-macro-lens-old-style-lens/153049063856?hash=item23a26f61b0:g:amcAAOSwruxbFTm7
Rather more than JPY 9,000 but in my opinion still worthwhile for a specialised lens designed to go to X12 magnification.
Right now I don't have funds for new lenses but it's on my list for the future.
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I bought my Zuiko MC Macro for 9,000 JPY. It was second-hand, but much cheaper than its usual price. It actually has a tiny dent on the front element which was the reason for the price but hasn't had any negative effect on the images so far. It was a real bargain!
That’s $81.36 at the current exchange rate. Yes, a true bargain! Zuiko lenses were quite expensive back in the day. I could only afford the one. I didn’t know anything about macrophotography back then, so it wouldn’t have occured to me to purchase a macro lens even in the unlikely event I could have afforded it. It probably was a real budget buster when new.
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Sunwayfoto stuff is pretty much all outsourced, they seem cheap compared to RRS but they aren't at all cheap when such rails can be had from direct suppliers. I'm not paying 200%+ extras for what is essentially a logo reprint.
Mengz makes most of Sunwayfoto's rails, clamps, and plates. Another supplier is ishoot, they have their own factories and reskin stuff for other brands.
ishoot has an ebay store. For Mengz, they sell their stuff here: https://www.gumptrade.com/
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Confinement and inaction gave me the opportunity to think over the purchase of a “real” tripod and ballhead. The stuff I have for years is just junk. As a sport / action photographer, the use of a tripod is about nil, if not forbidden. The only accessory of this kind I’m using is a monopod (carbon Sirui) equipped with a quick release clamp from Really Right Stuff (RRS). And even the use of monopods became quite marginal with last year’s purchase of the Nikkor 500mm f/5.6E PF.
So why a tripod ? I (would) like to make some landscape pictures, time exposures and some astro photography for which a stable tripod is a must. But I disregarded the purchase as being too expensive for the rather marginal (non professional) use of such costly device, at least when you are aiming for quality.
Finally I made the jump by investing (?) $2’000 bucks in a RRS tripod and ballhead. All due to arrive today by my gentle postman.
The ballhead, is a beefy BH-55 ballhead:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50014372866_0533c3cc38_w.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2jcAJzy)
RSR BH-55 (https://flic.kr/p/2jcAJzy)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50014326596_1be69396ba_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2jcAuPN)
RRS TVC 34L Mk 2 & BH-55 (https://flic.kr/p/2jcAuPN)
and a carbon tripod from RRS. I, finally ended up to go for a TVC 34L Mk2 tripod, TVC standing for Tripod, Versa, and Carbon. The only term needing some explanation is Versa, which stands that the top plate / assembly of the tripod can be changed. The first digit stands for weight category going from 1 to 4, 3 is OK for supporting up to 50 lbs. The second digit, stands for the number of leg sections: 4 sections with regard to transportability (3 being the ideal for sturdiness, but 4 seems still OK); L for the tall version going as high as 180 cm.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50013797613_f99367e32e_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2jcxMzp)RRS TVC 34L Mk 2 & BH-55 (https://flic.kr/p/2jcxMzp)
More explanations here: https://www.reallyrightstuff.com/tripod-guide
More feedback later :)
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That's exactly what I have and was using this morning for a lens test, though I have an earlier version of the BH-55 without the rotating top. I've been very pleased with the RRS tripods and ballheads in terms of both stability and ergonomics. They're rock solid and the tripods don't have the problem the Gitzo tripods have of the feet getting loose and falling off. The models with four-section legs are quite stable.
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RRS makes good stuff. Do be careful to periodically check the clamp lever for looseness. While the lever clamp is faster and slightly more compact, I chose the screw clamp on my BH-55 to avoid the potential for unnoticed loosening and a consequent "Manfrotto effect' disaster. Happy shooting!
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Everything arrived and looks even better « in real ». Thanks Bill and Keith ;). First pictures already made. :)
Image of the beast
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50017165702_b893934867_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2jcR3MU)
RRS BH-55 Ballhead & TVC 34 L tripod (https://flic.kr/p/2jcR3MU)
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An excellent looking setup, Christian, congratulations. :)
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An excellent looking setup, Christian, congratulations. :)
Thanks Carl. Too kind :). I think I made a good choice. Really superb equipment.
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I don't consider ballheads as an optimal support for lenses with supertele focal lenghts - its doable of course
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I can attest to the ever present dangers of the "Manfrotto Effect", as can a number of others.
RRS makes good stuff. Do be careful to periodically check the clamp lever for looseness. While the lever clamp is faster and slightly more compact, I chose the screw clamp on my BH-55 to avoid the potential for unnoticed loosening and a consequent "Manfrotto effect' disaster. Happy shooting!
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I’m used to the RRS quick release clamp. I always take off my camera from the monopod, when I have to go from A to B. Most of the people keep their camera on the monopod, probably because it takes too much time to disassemble. Everybody has his habits.
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I don't consider ballheads as an optimal support for lenses with supertele focal lenghts - its doable of course
Agreed. Alternatives include fluid heads, gimbal heads, and the Acratech Long Lens Head (https://www.acratech.net/tripod-heads/long-lens-heads/long-lens-head/). The last item is also available as a panorama head (https://www.acratech.net/acratech-panoramic-head-can-be-used-like-a-long-lens-head/) for a bit more.
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The machining and workmanship is top notch. Congratulations on the new set.As always just be alert when using cantilevers, but that go for all quick release connections/fasteners ;)
I would love to stick my Burzynski ball head into a brand new RRS tripod ;D But the old Gitzo Series 5 is so strong and bullet proof that I can't justify to abandon it 8)
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Hi Wolfgang
I don't consider ballheads as an optimal support for lenses with supertele focal lenghts - its doable of course
I see Bill's suggested a few.
I was wrestling with a Kirk one yesterday (I'm only using 300mm PF, but the Kirk still managed to get in the way enough)
Can you suggest any others you feel are better?
Plus suggestions from anyone else too if you'd like
Whilst scrolling back through this thread, I noticed Akira's setup
This reminded me of what I used to be able to do with a Benbo tripod when I needed low angles
Did this perform well enough to still be in use Akira, or have you moved on?
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If you are using a ball head normally and have only one good tripod, I think the "sidekick" style gimbal works very well, and it's handy not to have to change heads. I find my home-made ersatz sidekick works very well on bigger lenses like the 200-500 Nikkor and the old 500/4 AIS. My usual go-to tripod is an old Manfrotto with a Kirk ball head, and it works well.
I have a plethora of big old Manfrottos, and one of the other things I find works well if you want to fix your location rather than following motion with a gimbal is a 3-way head with adjustable drag. I'm not sure what Manfrotto's current model is, but the old 3039 is a big three way head the same size and appearance as their more common 3047, but with an added set of adjustments for residual drag, so that it does not flop as the conventional three-way heads and ball heads do. If you set it up right, it will hold a big lens pretty easily, and allows pretty precise aim.
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I don't consider ballheads as an optimal support for lenses with supertele focal lenghts - its doable of course
I agree. I took the first lens, which was close, to shoot the illustration. It happens that I shoot some landscape pictures with (super)teles, not enough to justify another mount. :)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49801134351_841fa3db5b_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2iSKQcr)_8505160.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2iSKQcr)
Landscape with 500mm
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I agree. I took the first lens, which was close, to shoot the illustration. It happens that I shoot some landscape pictures with (super)teles, not enough to justify another mount. :)
Landscape with 500mm
This proves it is well worth the effort!
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This proves it is well worth the effort!
Thank you, Akira San :)
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Mfloyd
understand, and wish you a lot of fun with your new tripod support!!!
Great shot BTW!
I had considerd the BH55 for myself but there are already the Burzynski Ballhead, the Arca Swiss Z1 and the -most used - Markisn Q3 Emille (due to size reasons) in my arsenal - and ballheads see more limited use now.
For supertele Support I am with Bill De Jaeger: Fluid heads, Gimbals and to especially mention the Acratech-long-lens head which is very compact. Of course it makes a difference if you consider a 500 mm PF or a heavier lens. my first supertele lens was the first 600/4 Nikkor with 6,5 Kilos mounted on a very comfortable but also superheavy Manfrotto 058 and a completely improper Linhof ballhead which gave me all the nasty tilting troubles. The Burzynsky was stable enough but still allowed mainly static movements and formed a slow setup. Avoiding a ballhead means avoiding the need for tilting control. For long years i have thought the Wimberley is an optimally agility (though prone to wind vibration) head until i aquired a Sachtler FSB8 fluidhead. I never exchanged it again ever since - although it is significantly heavier. It is both more stable, wind resistant, and it enables faster pannings as there is no need to carefully center the camera lens combo.
I like the Acratech long lens head, when more compactness is required. Together with a more compact tripod (Feisol heavy duty instead of Sachtler ENG2-CF) it forms a universally usable combination that can carry heavy lenses and give at least some kind of gimbal usabiliy but also a camera with L-Bracket.
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I had considerd the BH55 for myself but there are already the Burzynski Ballhead, the Arca Swiss Z1 and the -most used - Markisn Q3 Emille (due to size reasons) in my arsenal - and ballheads see more limited use now.
<…>
Avoiding a ballhead means avoiding the need for tilting control. For long years i have thought the Wimberley is an optimally agility (though prone to wind vibration) head until i aquired a Sachtler FSB8 fluidhead. I never exchanged it again ever since - although it is significantly heavier. It is both more stable, wind resistant, and it enables faster pannings as there is no need to carefully center the camera lens combo.
I have both BH-55 and Burzynski, but after I was fortunate to find the Burzynski, BH-55 has almost not been used anymore. The Burzynski head is so much better, both with heavy telephoto lenses (I use it without any real problem at least with 600mm/5.6), and with light weight cameras like Fuijifilm X100. BH-55 is now mostly used indoors, because Burzynski sit on an outdoor tripod.
The Wimberley head did never worked for me. And after I got a Sachtler DV6SB, which has about the same specifications as the newer FSB8, I have never missed the Wimberley. I now use the fluid head for anything from 300mm/2.8 and bigger/longer when I can. But sometimes Burzynski is my only option because of the fluid head is too big and heavy.
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To Asle and Wolfgang: In your opinion, would the Sachtler DV6SB or FSB8(+ matching legs) be acceptable for shooting with a 300mm (mine is f/4) plus heavyish DSLR (mine is D800) at the "danger zone" shutter speeds between approximately 1/160th and 2 seconds, as one might do when shooting a tele landscape in low light?
I know a giant Sachtler Video 18 would work, but it's big and many $$$.
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To Asle and Wolfgang: In your opinion, would the Sachtler DV6SB or FSB8(+ matching legs) be acceptable for shooting with a 300mm (mine is f/4) plus heavyish DSLR (mine is D800) at the "danger zone" shutter speeds between approximately 1/160th and 2 seconds, as one might do when shooting a tele landscape in low light?
I know a giant Sachtler Video 18 would work, but it's big and many $$$.
in my opinion it would, but i'dhave to test it out because this is not the range i am working, so far i have not used it too much in low light. Mostly i am working with 600-1000 mm focal lengths but faster speeds, sometimes touching the danger zone (say 1/125 or 1/60but not going down to 1 sec and at medium distances.
I have chosen the FSB8 (after intensive discussion with Mr Burzinsky) because it is optimized for "weight balance" of 8 kilogramms which equals the gear i am using, the heavy video heads are dedicated forheavier video-cameras, it was adapted from 75mm to 100 mm to suit the ENG 2CF.
Shooting low- light landscape (including larger distances) is a differnt story
I would not consider the head beign a potential problem but too much leg extention of the last segment (single tube instead of double) in combination with windy conditions
then atmospheric haze (did series of bird in wetlands shots where it was impossible to gain the desired sharpness due to this influence)
and finally the 300/4 itself (don't have any , just a 300/2,8) and its tripod collar, might be worse compared to a heavier lens, i know the old 400/5,6 to be very intricate in this aspect.
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To Asle and Wolfgang: In your opinion, would the Sachtler DV6SB or FSB8(+ matching legs) be acceptable for shooting with a 300mm (mine is f/4) plus heavyish DSLR (mine is D800) at the "danger zone" shutter speeds between approximately 1/160th and 2 seconds, as one might do when shooting a tele landscape in low light?
I know a giant Sachtler Video 18 would work, but it's big and many $$$.
The most effective solution to shooting in the danger zone of shutter speeds is to use EFCS or fully electronic shutter. E.g. D780, D6 and D850 allow EFCS also in viewfinder photography using Q/Qc modes. With some of the earlier bodies, EFCS is only available in live view (D5, D810) and going further back in time, not available at all. For long-lens photos at 1/100s and thereabouts, EFCS makes a big difference.
A good tripod and head are very beneficial as well, but probably not enough to fully mitigate shutter vibration. Against wind, good support does help, of course, but one may be surprised how much vibration the shutter can cause.
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To Asle and Wolfgang: In your opinion, would the Sachtler DV6SB or FSB8(+ matching legs) be acceptable for shooting with a 300mm (mine is f/4) plus heavyish DSLR (mine is D800) at the "danger zone" shutter speeds between approximately 1/160th and 2 seconds, as one might do when shooting a tele landscape in low light?
I know a giant Sachtler Video 18 would work, but it's big and many $$$.
I have never had any problem I can source back to the head. 300mm/2.8 is my most used lens on this head, on D800E. I got it with a ENG 75/2D tripod, but the tripod was not up to the task.