NikonGear'23
Gear Talk => Lens Talk => Topic started by: Michael Erlewine on April 10, 2018, 23:57:39
-
The Nikkor “O,” commonly referred to as the “CRT Nikkor” is a bit of an orphan. The “O” stands for the Greek number “octo” (8), due to their being eight optical elements in its construction. It is also reference to as an oscilloscope lend, because it was designed to monitor computer CRTs. It was not designed for daylight use and if use there produces all kinds of interesting effects. It is not an APO lens either, just the opposite. Yet, in its own way, it’s one of the sharpest lenses out there.
Because of its anomalies, this is a limited-use lens. It does not reach infinity. It has no focus ring. It has an unusual mount and it is only really sharp wide open. And wide-open is stated as f/1.2 and that is fast in my book.
In other words, wide-open the CRT Nikkor is so fast that its depth-of-field is razor thin, good for very little to most photographers. It has, by design, strong curvature to adapt to the curved screens of early computer monitors. Oh yes, and before I forget it, at about $1000 a pop, the lens can be expensive.
And yet, it is one of my most used lenses and has produced what some folks tell me are the most lovely photos I have taken. I have to agree. So, what gives? Why does this oddball lens command so much of my attention?
Aside from the results of this lens having a bit of a random factor, a throw of the dice, so to speak, most users that I have talked with like the quality of the bokeh. A lens that fast has some powerful bokeh, which photographers love. I know that I do. It has 12 aperture blades.
Other problems are its rather narrow reproduction range and the fact that if it is to be used for something more than an atmospheric one-off shot, it has to be mounted on a focus rail and stacked.
While many users of the Nikkor CRT use if for, as mentioned, single-shot somewhat blurry one-shot photos, there is another group of us who use the lens to stack focus because like a painter with a brush, we can paint in focus anywhere on the image, leaving everything else as a very lovely bokeh. As for me, I combine very nice bokeh with very sharp areas in high focus. I find the combination the focus and blurry background to be attractive.
The only problem I personally have run into is that the very fine focusing required to paint focus well (using a focus rail) often takes a great many layers, which is tiresome, even for someone like myself who was brought up on tedium.
As an archivist of popular culture, I created (along with a team) the largest collection of recorded music on the planet. And we did the same for one of the two largest movie and film databases. This included many millions of pieces of information, so I am very familiar with tedious procedures.
To repeat, my one complaint about the Nikkor CRT lens is how almost painfully long it took to stack enough focus fine enough to produce the effect that I liked about the lens. Recently, with the acquisition of an automated focus rail (StackShot), I found that it could easily stack focus with the CRT Nikkor at the fineness I require and quite effortlessly.
Although the Nikkor CRT lens has an aperture ring, what is most unique about this lens can be found mostly by using it wide open. As the aperture is increased, the lens accordingly becomes more and more normal and the bokeh effect, of course, is lost. I always use it wide open.
So, my love of the lens came from taking that very, very fast lens (f/1.2) with its razor-thin depth of field and carefully painting it as you would a color, only here we are painting focus. The result is that we have a sea of bokeh with more than one point or area of the image in focus. In other words, one area might be right up front in the image, and others could be here or there in the distance.
This is unlike a traditional photo, where there is a single plane and only the points (usually a single point) on the plane are in focus. Our eyes are directed to that point in the plane most in focus. However, in focus stacking the eye is free to roam and find its own point of focus. If there are many points of focus in stacked photo, we can decide which ones interest us. That is one of the features of focus stacking, this freedom to focus, whether we realize it or not.
In my experience, the CRT Nikkor is not the easiest lens to use, but well worth learning to get what you want out of it, if you like the effects it produces. It took me a while to find how I want to use it.
I first learned about the CRT Nikkor from the great lensman Bjørn Rørslett, who pointed it out to me and then I saw it exampled for me in an atmospheric shot by Akira, a member of NikonGear. I liked what I saw and could see the possibilities for my kind of work. I soon found myself stacking with it and liking it more and more. There are basically two versions of the Nikkor “O” and I have them both. One has some red lettering on the barrel. I can’t see any real difference between the two.
So, if you can put up with a specialty lens and the time it takes to learn to use it, I very much recommend the CRT Nikkor. And I repeat, what did seem like a very limited lens to me, when used with the StackShot, is IMO a very much more flexible lens.
Some examples are shown here.
-
Wonderful story, thanks for sharing! You know I have that lens, too (plus two siblings) and like it, too for its sharpness and rendering!
Superb Images!!!
PS: I fear it will soon be $2.000 after you publish your findings and pictures...
-
Fantastic images, as always, Michael! Your emotional relationship with the CRT is well represented both in your texts and images.
Please allow me to offer one correction: the letter "O" of "Nikkor-O" stands for the Greek numerial "octo", meaning that the lens is constructed with eight optical elements. Its name follows the nomenclature of F-mount Nikkor lenses.
-
Fantastic images, as always, Michael! Your emotional relationship with the CRT is well represented both in your texts and images.
Please allow me to offer one correction: the letter "O" of "Nikkor-O" stands for the Greek numerial "octo", meaning that the lens is constructed with eight optical elements. Its name follows the nomenclature of F-mount Nikkor lenses.
Thanks Akira. Changed the post to reflect your comment.
-
Actually, three are just being offered HERE (https://www.getdpi.com/forum/gear-fs-or-wtb/63791-fs-industrial-nikkors-i.html)
-
Actually, three are just being offered HERE (https://www.getdpi.com/forum/gear-fs-or-wtb/63791-fs-industrial-nikkors-i.html)
Glad to know Vivek is still around! ;D
Actually I bought my CRT from him. It was a very good deal.
-
Vivek is at getdpi.com ;) the nikon pages.
-
Vivek is at getdpi.com ;) the nikon pages.
Judging from the number of his post, Getdpi seems to be the most comfortable place for him. :D
For what is worth, the CRT has a long male thread that is compatible with Leica thread (L39).
-
Judging from the number of his post, Getdpi seems to be the most comfortable place for him. :D
For what is worth, the CRT has a long male thread that is compatible with Leica thread (L39).
What type of adapter is recommended for the f-mount and second for panasonic , :)
-
What type of adapter is recommended for the f-mount and second for panasonic , :)
Leica-to-M42 ring (thin) plus a short M42-Helicoid plus thin Nikon-F adapter (macro, glassless) OR mft adapter
Rather simple to make
-
What type of adapter is recommended for the f-mount and second for panasonic , :)
Leica-to-M42 ring (thin) plus a short M42-Helicoid plus thin Nikon-F adapter (macro, glassless) OR mft adapter
Rather simple to make
Yes, it is fairly easy, thanks to its rather common L39 thread. Some other industrial Nikkors have very odd mounts like M53 (yes, fifty three!).
If you already have Nikon BR-2 or BR-2A reverse-mount adapter, this would simplify your life:
http://www.customphototools.com/macro/special-adapters
I've bought another adapter from this seller and am satisfied with the product.
Idealistically, Nikon BR-15 (L39 to Nikon F mount adapter, a little rare) and an F to m4/3 adapter of any brand will automatically set the CRT almost at its designed magnification.
If you get a CRT, you should make sure that it comes with its original retaining ring. Without the ring, the long thread mount of CRT will interfere with the aperture lever of the Nikon body if the lens is mounted only via BR-15.
The attached image shows the CRT, its accompanying retaining ring and BR-15.
-
That retaining ring is not really needed Akira, screwing it with that thin M39-M42 ring into a M42 helicoid sets it flush to the rear of the helicoid, so no need to fix it. At least what I have working here for my mft camera.
-
That retaining ring is not really needed Akira, screwing it with that thin M39-M42 ring into a M42 helicoid sets it flush to the rear of the helicoid, so no need to fix it. At least what I have working here for my mft camera.
Klaus, as mentioned, you need the retaining ring to mount the CRT on a Nikon body using BR-15 only, although you can get almost exactly to the designed 1:5 magnification without the ring.
Without the retaining ring, the long M39 thread of the lens protrudes slightly too long and interferes with the aperture lever in the body (D7000 in my case). If I remember correctly, another NG member (Bruno?) experienced the same issue.
Any adapter thicker than BR-15 should cause no problem with Nikon bodies even without the ring. I use BR-15 and Rayqual F-to-m4/3 adapter to mount my CRT on GH5 without the retaining ring. Of course, there is nothing to interfere.
-
If I remember correctly, another NG member (Bruno?) experienced the same issue.
Indeed, Akira. The ring has the right dimension to stay on the safe side but any other kind of spacer will make do, of course. I went a little too far without it in an attempt to get closer to the nominal specification and realised the aperture level was shaving the mount. I did post pictures and a measure of the maximum protrusion allowance on the old site.
I'm using it with simple Ebay M39 adapters to Nikon FX, DX, Nikon V1 and a Sony NEX 5 to get different framings. Without the retainer and a short M42 helicoid, it goes to infinity focusing on the V1. Maybe also with the Sony but I can't remember if I tested it on the NEX. However, as Michael says, the charm of the CRT 55/1.2 comes from its peculiarities. What's the point of using it like a normal lens ? ...
BTW, it is a bit enthusiastic on that but I like how if flares and ghosts. With a bit of care to not overdo it and correctly position the ghosts, the image retains a special kind of crispiness for its own kind of rendering. A really enjoyable lens.
-
Indeed, Akira. The ring has the right dimension to stay on the safe side but any other kind of spacer will make do, of course. I went a little too far without it in an attempt to get closer to the nominal specification and realised the aperture level was shaving the mount. I did post pictures and a measure of the maximum protrusion allowance on the old site.
A really enjoyable lens.
Bruno, thank you for the confirmation. My poor aperture lever of D7000 scratched the edge of the mount as well. :o
But indeed it is a really enjoyable lens solely for its unique character!
-
What type of adapter is recommended for the f-mount and second for panasonic , :)
Here is how I find out the best way to connect the 55mm CRT to my Nikon bodies : In this way you won't hit anything in the mirror chamber
All you need is a couple of M39/nikon rings (very cheap) :
1/ screw the first ring with the nikon side facing the lens;
2/ screw the second ring with the nikon mount normally.
3/ screw both rings in thoroughly. That's it !
Thus you attach your lens like any one without worry... ;)
-
Here is single shot with this lens attached to the Df.
Note that I stopped down at F/8. Back lit with natural light.
-
That is a neat solution, Francis! That sets the lens almost at the same position as it would be used with the retaining ring and BR-15.
I don't remember if I have stopped down this lens that far. ::)
-
I don't remember if I have stopped down this lens that far. ::)
Well, actually i am not sure I needed to stop down as much, as the subject was quite flat !
That said, I cannot discern any damaging diffraction. Let's wait any comments !
-
That said, I cannot discern any damaging diffraction. Let's wait any comments !
I'd like to thank both you, and Akira, for creating visual examples of how to adapt this lens, along with your taking the time to describe verbally.
Of the versions mentioned, yours seems to be the quickest and best.
That said, I am not sure why you'd use an f/1.2 lens, renowned for bokeh, at f/8 :o
I didn't see any diffraction, nor any example of creamy bokeh, but I did detect a few blots on your sensor :P :D
-
You're welcome, John.
I don't detect any degradation caused by diffraction at f8.0.
-
I think this image was taken at f2.8. The curvature of field may have enabled me to get more flowers in focus than with the lenses with flatter image field.
-
You're welcome, John.
:)
I don't detect any degradation caused by diffraction at f8.0.
If you look along the right edge of Rosko's image, there are some weird 'swirls' that look like stacking imperfections, even though it wasn't stacked.
Michael has described the rendering of this lens as "bokeh on acid," which can make (or break) the image ... depending on the roll of the dice.
-
I think this image was taken at f2.8. The curvature of field may have enabled me to get more flowers in focus than with the lenses with flatter image field.
I thought that was the crown of a diamond ring at first ;D
-
I was reading up on the Japanese wiki page about this lens and it showed a few alternatives, so I looked them up and found the JML 56mm f/1.2 oscilloscope lens.
This lens was used by the US govt. when the Nikkor was no longer available. Seeing it was so cheap on ebay I purchased one.
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/799/26613096837_3b769bcafe_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/GxH5vc)804_1289 (https://flic.kr/p/GxH5vc)
It turns out to be a bit larger than expected, roughly twice the size, and the inner dimension of the rear flange is slightly larger than the outer dimension of the Nikon F mount so I am guessing it was designed for a larger film format than 35mm.
It has an internal electrically controlled shutter, which can easily be removed, but it also acts as the diaphragm (5 sided) the aperture of which is controlled by the knob on the right side.
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/893/40770864434_a370bffc5b_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/257Mkyw)804_1288 (https://flic.kr/p/257Mkyw)
As a result of the different design, magnification is substantially higher when placed up against the lens mount. As a comparison (different days, different flowers, but close enough) here is the JML 56mm f/1.2 first:
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/785/41484180351_f98c7bcb92_h.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/26cPgwP)804_1270 (https://flic.kr/p/26cPgwP)
Compared to the Nikkor O
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4780/26123697067_359c01088f_h.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/FNsM18)803_0681 (https://flic.kr/p/FNsM18)
I think it is useful for pictoral effects on smaller objects. Here are a couple of examples of how it renders the cherry blossoms in my front yard.
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/900/27612709058_c324f9f3ee_h.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/J53moE)804_1281 (https://flic.kr/p/J53moE)
and the wisteria which would not cooperate in the wind.
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/822/39676090490_a8ad95fcd7_h.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/23s3kpG)804_1272 (https://flic.kr/p/23s3kpG)
I don't think it has the same fine quality as the Nikkor, and the aperture is harder to work with, but for somewhere near 1/20th of the cost, it may be worth trying it out.
-
I was reading up on the Japanese wiki page about this lens and it showed a few alternatives, so I looked them up and found the JML 56mm f/1.2 oscilloscope lens.ng it out.
I have this lens. It large, more like what we might expect as a 210mm lens size in the Large-Format lenses. It takes 6 volts to control the shutter. I have mine permanently wide open, where I believe it is sharpest. Getting a mount for it is not a lot of fun, but I found a Russian mount made for the Printing Nikkor 105mm that fits exactly, but adds extra weight.
I have yet to do much with it, but it does not look as fine as the Nikkor "O" lens. The way to work with it, IMO, is to stack focus. I have some other fish to fry just now, but I plan to do some work with this lens as soon as I get a chance.
-
I have this lens. It large, more like what we might expect as a 210mm lens size in the Large-Format lenses.
I have yet to do much with it, but it does not look as fine as the Nikkor "O" lens. The way to work with it, IMO, is to stack focus. I have some other fish to fry just now, but I plan to do some work with this lens as soon as I get a chance.
Yes it is as large as a 210mm LF lens - or larger. I spent most of last week in museums and when I saw this, I thought of you. This is just a small detail.
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/812/27615428748_725d750865_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/J5hhRS)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/J5hhRS)
On the other hand, I can hardly imagine myself crafting such an image. I can see the pleasure you have in the crafting of it. I can see the detailed results. However, I tend toward the fleeting, the incidental and even the accidental. More like this depiction:
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/872/27615428868_311c111563_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/J5hhTW)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/J5hhTW)
I’d love to see what you end up with. My way of working is more likely to just be holding it up against the camera out in the yard. It is interesting to see how different the approaches and results can be.
-
Yes it is as large as a 210mm LF lens - or larger. I spent most of last week in museums and when I saw this, I thought of you. This is just a small detail.
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/812/27615428748_725d750865_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/J5hhRS)
Nice photo indeed.
-
Back to the forum ! :)
I'd like to thank both you, and Akira, for creating visual examples of how to adapt this lens, along with your taking the time to describe verbally.
Of the versions mentioned, yours seems to be the quickest and best.
You're welcome, John !
And thanks for commenting !
About the pic I've posted, I just wanted to show that you can get a sharp result without stack. That means stopping down at the detriment of bokeh, of course. (this is why I used a monocolour background to avoid any mess.
If you want both deep DOF and creamy bokeh, focus stacking is the solution.
Also I know that I didn't use the best stop to get optimum resolution, which is f/4 (source : http://coinimaging.com/nik-o55.html),
About the sharpness, we have to consider that this lens, as Michael Erlewine pointed out, is not an apochromatic lens, but a hight resolution lens for a monocolour subject, (like oscilloscope screen). If you take a coloured picture, like a flower, the sharpness will decrease cause wavelength of each spectrum component won't spot on the same focus point , but, still very sharp for my taste ! :)
I did detect a few blots on your sensor :P :D
Oh dear ! I definitely need to clean my sensor ::) :)!
Below, an image with bokeh.
Cheers, Francis
-
I was reading up on the Japanese wiki page about this lens and it showed a few alternatives, so I looked them up and found the JML 56mm f/1.2 oscilloscope lens.
This lens was used by the US govt. when the Nikkor was no longer available. Seeing it was so cheap on ebay I purchased one.
Jack, this lens seems promising for focus stacking.
I like the colour rendition of Orchids pictures ! ;)
Let's wait Michael experiments ... :)
-
This lens is very hard to mount due to very odd threads. I finally mounted it with a clamp-on tube as close to the flange as I could get. Even, then, there is very little range and it is too close for my taste. So, there is the mounting and the range and the sheer heaviness of the lens. It is a lump. And you are going to have to shoot it wide-open unless you have the electrical connection to close and open the blades. Better hope that it comes wide open! I had to make sure the seller would set it to wide open before shipping.
I can live with that, but when I stack fairly close, looking to see what degree of sharpness is there, I must have missed the “sharpness” in passing. LOL. There wasn’t any sharpness there worth my trouble and I usually go to a fair amount of trouble to find things out.
So, heavy, ultra-limited range, very difficult to mount, and then not really sharp.
This might be a lens that folks like Jakov Minić, those who are skilled in atmospherics, might like.
Here is a multi-level stack using the JML 56mm. What you see is all the resolution/sharpness I can get, and this photo has been dressed up in post in its “go-to-meeting” best.
I see no reason to use it. However, if anyone wants it, I’m happy to sell this copy WITH a Nikon-F adapter included.
-
And you are going to have to shoot it wide-open unless you have the electrical connection to close and open the blades. Better hope that it comes wide open! I had to make sure the seller would set it to wide open before shipping.
I see no reason to use it. However, if anyone wants it, I’m happy to sell this copy WITH a Nikon-F adapter included.
Actually, there are just a few screws holding the cover plate so it is easy to set or remove the shutter diaphragm:
Unscrew the front cell
Remove the six screws
Lift the cover plate
Remove the 4 screws holding the shutter diaphragm
Lift the shutter out
Move the actuator lever to open position
Open the shutter using the actuator pin
Put shutter back in (or remove entirely if you just want to use wide open)
Put cover back on
Screw front cell back in.
I agree that this in not a great lens for Michael’s type of work.
-
Here is how I find out the best way to connect the 55mm CRT to my Nikon bodies : In this way you won't hit anything in the mirror chamber
All you need is a couple of M39/nikon rings (very cheap) :
1/ screw the first ring with the nikon side facing the lens;
2/ screw the second ring with the nikon mount normally.
3/ screw both rings in thoroughly. That's it !
Thus you attach your lens like any one without worry... ;)
I tried this at my D500 first but ERR messages appeared although the camera didnt stop shooting, still not enough mirror clearance?
later i added another ring as spacer and tried it on the Df with the aperture lug turned in, no error messages on the Df.
-
I tried this at my D500 first but ERR messages appeared although the camera didnt stop shooting, still not enough mirror clearance?
later i added another ring as spacer and tried it on the Df with the aperture lug turned in, no error messages on the Df.
Any thoughts?
-
Any thoughts?
ERR probably means the lens is hitting one or more of the contacts in the body.
-
ERR probably means the lens is hitting one or more of the contacts in the body.
thanks Jack
-
Keep the retaining nut on the rear part of the lens. If this is removed the lens will be seated deeper into the camera and the danger of it touching something inside the camera throat is increased.
Flipping up the aperture lug on the Df won't influence the basic problem of interfacing the 55 CRT with any Nikon (D)SLR.
-
Thanks,
thats what it looks like one spacer ring(jamnut) and 2 adapters(m39-f-mount) back to back following Francis' suggestion, so the nut is flush with the adapter mount, actually slightly inside.
Any way of enlarging, or extending the focal distance?
-
Sure, a very thin M42 helicoid from ebay, a M39-M42 ring in front, and a thin (macro) M42-Nikon adapter ring and you're all set!!
Tht first ring and that Nikon adapter you seem to have already though...
-
Thanks,
thats what it looks like one spacer ring and 2 adapters back to back following Francis' suggestion, so the nut is flush with the adapter mount actually slightly inside.
Any way of enlarging, or extending the focal distance?
The best (and probably the only) way is to mount the lens on a mirrorless camera. I'm not joking.
You can mount the CRT without the retaining ring via BR-15 and F to Canon EF adapter on a Canon body, as its flange back is shorter and an EOS body doesn't have the aperture lever to interfere. I've done that on EOS 5D MkIII. The focusing distance IS shorter, and the magnification factor is closer to its designated range, but the difference is almost unnoticeable.
-
Akira i have a pana gx1 lying around I never use, what adapter do you recommend?
-
Actually on the 1 V1, LF1 @f/1.2
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/906/39905646730_94c88d694c_o.jpg)
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/826/39905647050_43e4fd14ff_o.jpg)
handheld waiting for a lull in a light breeze
-
Nikon D3 ,CRT Nikkor-O 55mm f/1.2
1/50s f/2 at 55.0mm iso200
(http://www.pbase.com/bobfriedman/image/131990736/original.jpg)
-
Thanks,
thats what it looks like one spacer ring(jamnut) and 2 adapters(m39-f-mount) back to back following Francis' suggestion, so the nut is flush with the adapter mount, actually slightly inside.
Any way of enlarging, or extending the focal distance?
I just use a single adapter with the jam but up against it. It keeps it in place just fine.
If you want to move focus out closer to infinity you need to bring the lens closer to the sensor. On the F mount this is not possible as the lens body can only go so deep into the camera. You could gain a few mm more depth by shaving off the protruding part of the lens barrel, but I wouldn’t recommend. A mirrorless camera body would seem the easiest solution if you want infinity focus. Going the other direction can be achieved by mounting ina M extender or PK11, or any other sort of thing. I think I used a teleconverter with reasonable results, but my
Memory may be mistaken.
-
Akira i have a pana gx1 lying around I never use, what adapter do you recommend?
I have tried a combined M39 (LTM) to m4/3 adapter like this:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Leica-L39-M39-Lens-To-Micro-M-4-3-M43-Adapter-GH1-E-P2/352184037797?_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIM.MBE%26ao%3D2%26asc%3D44040%26meid%3D9b4c4a1bd9d3414eaf817362cb7470b9%26pid%3D100623%26rk%3D3%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D250715657046%26itm%3D352184037797&_trksid=p2047675.c100623.m-1
It enable you to focus much further, but I failed. This way the lens is set too close to the sensor, and the lens is mechanically focused past infinity. :o :o :o
So you would need to use some sort of extension, like an L39 extension tube or a m4/3 extension tube.
-
Or, you can use a thin M42 to m4/3 adapter. I combined BORG parts depicted here.
M42 lenses are originally for SLRs, so the commonly available M42 to m4/3 adapters are designed to enable the adapted M42 lenses to focus at infinity. Thus you need to use or make a thinner adapter.
Then you can combine a thin M42 helicoid (readily available), L39 to M42 thread adapter and the thin adapter mentioned above to focus the CRT further than on a DSLR.
-
I tried this at my D500 first but ERR messages appeared although the camera didnt stop shooting, still not enough mirror clearance?
later i added another ring as spacer and tried it on the Df with the aperture lug turned in, no error messages on the Df.
Just arrived in France from England...
Fons, that combination I showed previously worked fine with the D700 as well.
BTW, I noticed on the picture of your 55mm CRT that the threaded rear doesn't protrude like mine. Seems few mm shorter ?
I didn't bring it with me to France, so can't measure it for comparison.
The second flower with the V1 is nice ! I like the detail of stamens. ;) it reminds me a borage flower.
-
BTW, I noticed on the picture of your 55mm CRT that the threaded rear doesn't protrude like mine. Seems few mm shorter ?
I didn't bring it with me to France, so can't measure it for comparison.
Francis, Fons leaves the retaining ring on the thread, which is why the rear thread is not protruding.
Hope you enjoy your stay in France, anyway!
-
Or, you can use a thin M42 to m4/3 adapter. I combined BORG parts depicted here.
M42 lenses are originally for SLRs, so the commonly available M42 to m4/3 adapters are designed to enable the adapted M42 lenses to focus at infinity. Thus you need to use or make a thinner adapter.
Then you can combine a thin M42 helicoid (readily available), L39 to M42 thread adapter and the thin adapter mentioned above to focus the CRT further than on a DSLR.
Yep, exactly, same idea I descibed using different tools...
-
Hope you enjoy your stay in France, anyway!
Thanks, Akira !
I certainly will ! ;)
-
I've used Nikon and Canon DSLRs as well as Sony, Pansonic and Olympus mirrorless camears. The lenses of all brands came and left. In retrospect, this CRT has been the only lens that have stayed with me ever since I had gotten it and have been attached all these cameras.
These were shot with D750 today, wide open.
-
Thank you Akira and others for resourceful replies, i have ordered a m39 - m4/3 adapter to mount onto a panasonic.
Good to see some lovely examples.
-
I've used Nikon and Canon DSLRs as well as Sony, Pansonic and Olympus mirrorless camears. The lenses of all brands came and left. In retrospect, this CRT has been the only lens that have stayed with me ever since I had gotten it and have been attached all these cameras.
These were shot with D750 today, wide open.
wow
0228 - the white flower - is my favorite
-
Thank you Akira and others for resourceful replies, i have ordered a m39 - m4/3 adapter to mount onto a panasonic.
Good to see some lovely examples.
You are welcome, Fons, and thank you for the kind words! Hope you enjoy the lens.
wow
0228 - the white flower - is my favorite
Thank you, Armando. The focus is a bit off, but I liked the overall atmosphere.
-
Very nice one's Akira!!
-
Very nice one's Akira!!
Thank you, Klaus!
-
agree.. very nice Akira!
-
agree.. very nice Akira!
Thank you, Bob!
-
I have a number of Oscillo lenses, including a crazy 86mm f1.2 STL-Elgeet made for TRW Space Technology Laboratories (that is extremely radioactive, with at least two thorium elements), but I love the CRT Nikkor. I have two, one of the 7x series and one of the 8x series. These lenses are not the same! The 8x has more field curvature (seemingly) resulting in a bit different look of OOF highlights at the edges.
-
quick morning shot of these flowers lasting only one day. D750, fully open
-
but I love the CRT Nikkor. I have two, one of the 7x series and one of the 8x series. These lenses are not the same! The 8x has more field curvature (seemingly) resulting in a bit different look of OOF highlights at the edges.
What does the 7x and 8x refer to here? I only know of the two CRT Nikkors 55mm, one with the red markings (later) and one without.
-
Michael, the earlier series all had serial numbers starting with 7 and the second series with red markings all started with 8 (as far as I know). I had one of the earlier ones but surprisingly won a later one on eBay with a very low bid, so I ended up with two. I did some comparison tests and while they are very similar, the later one seemed to have slightly more field curvature, judging by the shape of OOF highlights near the edges.
By the way, for those without the jam nut, a possible solution using the BR15 or wanting to mount on an M42 helicoid is to get a M39 to M42 adapting ring on eBay. It is about 3mm thick, which might solve the rear clearance problem. Of course you can use more than one. Not beautiful, but it is solid and it works.
-
The CRT continues to work nicely on my Fuji X-E3. Shot at the designed magnification: mounted without the "jam nut" into BR-15 and then on an F to X mount adapter. Stopped down to f2.0.
-
There are actually a number of oscillo lenses that are--to some extent--alternatives to the Nikkor-O. They, too, are corrected for close-up work, usually between 1:0.5 and 1:1. I guess that none have quite the resolution of the Nikkor-O, but they are by no means bad close up. Most all also have a negatively curved field to fit the curve of CRT tubes. Like the Nikkor-O, they tend to have high resolution but glow that limits resolution and contrast wide open. I find using them one to two stops down is usually the best recipe for decently crisp images while not erasing the weird bokeh that comes from their curved field. Here, FWIW are a few examples. First, two shots with the CRT Nikkor. The next two are with an 86mm f1.2 STL-Elgeet, made for TRW Space Technology Labs. I really should try it at 1:1 for which it is designed. Then two with an Ilex Oscillo Paragon 80mm f1.3. And then two with a Wollensak Oscillo-Raptar 75mm f1.9. Finally two with a rather rare Wollensak 80mm f1.3 Oscillo-Raptar
-
Wonderful images.
-
Toby, Toby, what wonderful lenses and images. Thank you!