NikonGear'23
Gear Talk => Lens Talk => Topic started by: Erik Lund on October 19, 2016, 08:59:15
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The new lens has promise outstanding image quality and the Tilt Shift is now accompanied by Perspective Control Rotation which was lacking in the privies PC Nikkor lenses.
All in all a very interesting new lens and I will for sure try it out as soon as possible for my architectural work!
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What an impressive optic!
The independent rotations sound like a significant advance in design over the 24mm PC ED
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The sample images, although small web jpg files looks very promising ;)
http://www.nikon-image.com/products/lens/nikkor/pc_nikkor_19mm_f4e_ed/sample.html
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For a very wide angle lens, the MTF curve is highly impressive. Wonder how this translates into real images.
The 'official' samples published by Nikon do indicate a remarkably rectilinear lens geometry, far superior to that of the 24 PC-E (I assume no post-processing straightening is conducted).
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Great... more space has to be find.
Impressive I must say, and wonder if this design should lead to upgrades on the existing ones.
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Yes only a small hint of barrel distortion is visible in the images,,,
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A pity the lens is so darned expensive. However, I guess this is a case of 'you get what you pay for'. Must get a review sample.
I wonder how large the sun shade is - seen no pictures of it yet, but the front has bayonet mount for it. Probably like a medium sized frying pan?
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Yes the shade must be huge,,, Also, It comes with a Slip-on front lens cap,,, not yet to be seen,,,
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According to Nikon's web page the lens does not come with a lens hood... just the LC-K101 Slip-on front lens cap, LF-4 Rear Lens Cap and the CL-1120 Lens Case.
Maybe they are still trying to figure out how to make a hood for it ;D
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Yes maybe the bayonet mount in front is for filter-holder only,,,
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Maybe the front lens cap locks with the bayonet at the front. I don't think there is going to be any hood.
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I agree would make perfect sense - Protection of the front element is quite important ;)
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Wait! It's not medium format so it can't be any good.
Dave
If everyone believes that maybe I can buy one for a fire sale price.
Fat chance...
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A pity the lens is so darned expensive. However, I guess this is a case of 'you get what you pay for'. Must get a review sample.
I wonder how large the sun shade is - seen no pictures of it yet, but the front has bayonet mount for it. Probably like a medium sized frying pan?
While I am not kind of such the lens user, your images of boat and something else, with previous version of TS, always remembering by me. They were impressive! LZ
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Large JPG files,,,
http://www.cameraegg.org/pc-nikkor-19mm-f4e-ed-tilt-shift-lens-sample-images/
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Yes the shade must be huge,,, Also, It comes with a Slip-on front lens cap,,, not yet to be seen,,,
Apparently Nikon provides no hood for the lens. :o :o :o
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Large JPG files,,,
http://www.cameraegg.org/pc-nikkor-19mm-f4e-ed-tilt-shift-lens-sample-images/
Those are stunning by composition and highly improved perspective and distortions control. Yes, I've opened those files! Sharpness is amazing! THX again! LZ
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When you click the image you get it in 100% or at least I do,,,
I get this link:
http://www.nikon.com.cn/tmp/CN/4016499630/3760176746/3015334490/1887721864/1781229958/1188208911/569317614.jpg
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When you click the image you get it in 100% or at least I do,,,
I get this link:
http://www.nikon.com.cn/tmp/CN/4016499630/3760176746/3015334490/1887721864/1781229958/1188208911/569317614.jpg
Its done! I am really shocked with its resolving power! Well done, Nikon! LZ
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Thanks for sharing Erik, but it doesn't help my bank account....
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At least the frequency of updates to Nikon's PC lenses is quite low, so you don't have to upgrade it to a newer version often. ;)
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Nicely done Nikon. Maybe we can look for upgrades to the other PC-E's...
The lens itself at $3.4K ain't cheap, but I guess compared to my S glass it is ok.
Impressive samples, btw.
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Nice to have but expensive
think i might wait for an updated 24 PC-E.
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Interesting. None of the sample images have more than 1.5 degree of tilt.
The full 7.5 degrees, on a level camera, focused at infinity, should give you a horizontal plane of focus just 6 inches or so below the lens allowing incredible depth of field.
I really enjoy my 85 PC, but would love the ability to bring that plane up closer that this should allow.
*IF* I've done my math correctly :)
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As Nikon followed Canon in the 24-45-85 Series of T/S PC-E lenses I wonder why they did 19 mm now instead of 17. Was it too complicated or is there another reasonable argument for this choice?
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Canon don't make an 85mm tilt shift, theirs is 90mm. Nikon make what focal lengths they want to make.
In my personal opinion the 17mm TS-E is a bit too wide; often yielding images that look unnatural (full shift applied, it is similar to cropping an off center segment from a 10mm lens). I prefer something that looks reasonably natural. I guess this can be a shifting standard and depend on what we are used to seeing.
19mm may be ok as long as it is not shifted more than a few mm and it's close enough to 24mm to make the difference up by cropping (avoiding the field curvature of the Nikon 24 PC, according to Nikon the 19 has a flat field). I am quite happy with unshifted 20mm images as my widest option but sometimes shift can be useful especially for exteriors. I used to use 14-24 and a bit of cropping to simulate shift on a wider than 24mm lens, but rarely used it and most of the time felt it was too much, especially if there were people in the room. Great for giving an exaggerated feeling of space in apartments if that is what is wanted. I try for greater realism. For tiny rooms a wider lens may be necessary but I don't shoot closets and bathrooms. Such tools have their place but I sometimes feel better constraining my options.
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I also feel 17 is too wide even 19mm is extremely wide,,, although I shoot bathrooms as well,,, But that is where 14mm comes in handy.
The buildings of today are stacked so closely so 19mm will do the job nicely since 24mm often is too little coverage.
Today I often have to stitch to get the shot, if there is not enough space to move back or if there are unwanted obstacles in the way when moving back.
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Oh no, that front element sticking out! I'd be scared to use it...
(http://i.imgur.com/l6mn1IJ.jpg)
Yep.
Wonder if a hood can be made, I'm guessing for the tilt and shift to operate correctly, the hood would be massive.
Admin edit: you inserted the image incorrectly. The IMG tags must be wrapped around the URL
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One can only hope the manufacturer has an ample stock of replacement front elements ....
I have seen a fair share of crashed lenses throughout the years, but nothing looking that bad.
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Truly bad
Also for me the worst thing i have ever seen
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Canon don't make an 85mm tilt shift, theirs is 90mm. Nikon make what focal lengths they want to make.
correct i got it wrong in my memory
of course is Nikon free to make what they want to make, nevertheless Canon and Nikon are frequently imitating each other
imho 19mm may indeed be more appropriate, and it is also a prime focal length unique for Nikon
and remarkable: the first T/S lens enabling to turn the Tilt against the Shift axis- finally
after upgrades for the 85,45 and 24 the PC-E series would be done for a long period of time
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I have seen conflicting information about the compatibility of the PC 19mm with the Nikon Df.
This page:http://www.nikon.com/news/2016/1019_lens_01.htm (http://www.nikon.com/news/2016/1019_lens_01.htm) says: "When used with cameras other than the D5, D4 series, D3 series, D810 series, D500, or Df (emphasis mine), some combinations of shift and rotation may not be possible due to the fact that the lens comes into contact with the camera body."
But this page http://www.nikonusa.com/en/nikon-products/product/camera-lenses/pc-nikkor-19mm-f%252f4e-ed.html (http://www.nikonusa.com/en/nikon-products/product/camera-lenses/pc-nikkor-19mm-f%252f4e-ed.html) from the Nikon USA website says: "Usable models although there are some limitations: Df (emphasis mine again), D800 series, D750, D700, D610, D600, D300 series, D7200, D7100, D7000, D5500, D5300, D5200, D5100, D5000, D3400, D3300, D3200, D3100."
Do you know which information is right, and as the case may be, what are these limitations?
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The older cameras can't use the latest E lenses also some of the low level cameras don't have so much space around the mount to accommodate for the movements.
The will be no issues using a Df
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Not the clearest of information on Nikon's side, that is for sure.
However, Df being the "flattest" profiled in shape and outline of any Nikon now in production, simply has to be the camera with the least restrictions of movements.
The Df also allows all 'E' type lenses with all features functional.
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According to the Japanese Nikon website, PC 19/4.0E can be used with D5, D4 series, D3 series, Df, D810 series and D500 "without limitation". Yes, Df is included in the "without limitation" category.
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OK, then some details were lost in translation apparently.
Anyone familiar with these cameras should be puzzled by the initial assertion of compatibility.
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Suspect a similar constraint with my superb 24 3.5D PCE on the D7200 (and likely some of the other current Nikon SLRs). The lens cannot extend fully upward in vertical Shift, because the lens body is obstructed by the upper "overhang" of the camera's flash housing. And it's commonsense when using the the 90 degree rotation button/lever, but only turn left as shift operating knob fouls...
And reset the 90 degree rotation of the lens is in its normal orientation to attach or detach from the camera, or it will be foul when rotated.
kind regards woody
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The Df has almost no overhang of the finder so should not impose any restriction of movement.
I noticed D500 also was fully compatible and it surely has a lot more overhang than the Df ... However, some of the DX models are quite narrow in width and thus the lens might interfere with the handgrip even when it clears the finder overhang.
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Thanks, that's reassuring.
I am not sure I'll have the budget for this lens any time soon but I am certainly interested.
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You are not alone - I'm tempted as well.
However, will request a review sample first.
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Question. I hope this sounds not too iconoclastic, but to what extent, PC through a dedicated lens is (much) better that PC in postproduction such as Lr or DXO dedicated module ? I'm not a specialist in architectural photography, but the little PC corrections I had to made via Lr where very satisfying.
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A world of difference that is best understood when tried in the field.
A PC lens allows extreme movements of the plane of focus without any degradation of image quality.
The image below illustrates what such a lens easily should deliver (not taken with the 19, but applying extreme tilt with a 28 PC so the rendition should be comparable)
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Indeed, they key feature is the tilt, rather than the shift (latter can be emulated e.g. by unsymmetric cropping, provided one has a high res lens and a high res sensor)
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Beautiful tidal scene, Bjorn :-) It's always impressive what these PC lenses can deliver in landscapes!
A question I've been meaning to ask is which Micro version of the current PC-E Nikkors - 45 or 85 - would be the best choice to maximize the DoF on small vertebrates, insects etc and details of plants, while securing fitting background to the forward subject? And not sure if this topic has already been discussed in a sister thread
I recently bought a Used PC-E 24 f3.5 in pristine condition (boxed and unregistered!) And am humbly learning its capabilities; the 45 or 85 is the logical progression (in due course)
thanks
woody
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If you are asking for my opinion, I always consider longer lenses to be the better choice for landscape work. Thus the 85 PC is my preferred alternative. It combines nicely with the 24 PC as well.
If just a single PC lens is feasible, the 45 might do good service for some close-ups (it is labelled 'Micro-Nikkor' after all) and the occasional landscape scene as well.
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For me the key feature would be shift for architectural purposes, as most of the samples in the Nikon presentation also show
There is a lot of loss of active sensor area while cropping from say a 14mm and not close to what the 19mm can do - But OK let's see when the reviews start to come out :)
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Sure, but with 50 MP cameras becoming a commonplace, it is less of a problem, while not optimal.
Also, the quality loss at maximum recommended shift may still be problematic.
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If you are asking for my opinion, I always consider longer lenses to be the better choice for landscape work. Thus the 85 PC is my preferred alternative. It combines nicely with the 24 PC as well.
If just a single PC lens is feasible, the 45 might do good service for some close-ups (it is labelled 'Micro-Nikkor' after all) and the occasional landscape scene as well.
Thank You :-)
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Agree with Björn for landscapes - around 90mm (equiv.) was also mentioned as optimal one century ago.
For cityscapes, that's another story. 24-28 is fine.
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I wonder why there are not lenses with tilt-only function for controlling the focus DOF/focus plane. I almost never wish for a shift-lens, but a tilt-lens would be very useful for macro and landscape. A tilt-only lens does not require a larger image circle like shift lenses, so the optics could as compact and affordable as a regular lens.
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One usually has to use shift in conjunction with the tilt. Thus having both features available is not just convenient, it is basically a requirement.
Having only shift present makes for a different kind of approach, thus you can get away with shift only if the plane of focus does not require to be moved.
Still, modern DSLRs (or mirrorless) cameras are less convenient than the old technical view cameras, because the mirrorbox/shutter severely restricts movements by acting like a stop gate and cutting off light. The technical cameras used lenses with leaf shutters to provide many more degrees of freedom as to the kind and extent of movements usable.
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One usually has to use shift in conjunction with the tilt. Thus having both features available is not just convenient, it is basically a requirement.
Having only shift present makes for a different kind of approach, thus you can get away with shift only if the plane of focus does not require to be moved.
The first Nikkor PC 35mm lenses offered shift only. However, it is not the easiest lens to work with.
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Many years ago, I literally hacked a 35 PC-Nikkor to get it to give tilt as well. This worked, but was restricted as to what could be achieve because tilt and shift could be properly separated. Therefore, the next project was modifying a 28 PC to allow shift and tilt concurrently with a degree of independence. (The literal scene with barnacles was shot with that lens). The image below shows the best I could do with the hacked 35.
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One usually has to use shift in conjunction with the tilt. Thus having both features available is not just convenient, it is basically a requirement.
Doesn't this depend on where the center of tilting rotation lies?
With the 85PC for example, the lens tilts around a point well in front of the image plane, so tilting the lens causes the image circle to move laterally, and shift is required to bring it back to the center of the sensor.
On the other hand, if the lens tilts around a point on the image plane, the image circle remains more or less stationary. All that is required here is a lens with sufficient focus travel so that any part of the sensor tilted back "beyond infinity" can be brought back into focus.
I could imagine a mirrorless camera designed for landscape work, where the sensor could be tilted for the same effect...
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I can only state that both tilt and shift are required, also for short focal length lenses. Probably even more in the latter case.
Even a mirrorless camera acts as a stop gate to light rays as it has finite thickness and there is a lens mount well in front of the shutter/sensor plane.
The idea of a tilted sensor is equivalent to rear tilt on a view camera. This makes exposure uneven over the film plane because light rays travel different distances from the exit pupil.
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Even a mirrorless camera acts as a stop gate to light rays as it has finite thickness and there is a lens mount well in front of the shutter/sensor plane.
The idea of a tilted sensor is equivalent to rear tilt on a view camera. This makes exposure uneven over the film plane because light rays travel different distances from the exit pupil.
This is true of any tilting system, whether the lens is tilted or the camera/sensor.
When the light path from the exit pupil to the sensor is relatively long, any difference in distance due tilting will be minor, in wide angle lenses with very short back-focus it could be significant, especially if the tilt angle is large.
Tilting the sensor on a mirrorless camera does away with problems of peripheral rays from a tilt-lens being cut off by the lens mount, or the sensor conflicting with the reflex mirror of an SLR. One only needs to consider the focal plane shutter:
- either place the shutter far enough forward to clear a tilting sensor - not much space is required as tilts are typically small.
- or do away with the focal plane shutter entirely by utilising in-lens leaf-shutters, or global electronic shutter.
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Another problem of the digital cameras is the on-chip micro lens which also narrows the effective angle of incident light.
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Rolkand: You might overlook the change in geometry caused by tilting in front or rear. Any textbook on view cameras deal with these issues.
As long as there is a lens mount in the camera, it will act as a constraint for lens/camera movements. Only shutters at the aperture position can avoid such limitations.
Let us continue any further discussion on these matters outside this thread lest it be completely derailed.
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The inverse square law works inside a camera just as it does out side a camera. The lens becomes the light source for the sensor. The distance matters.
Dave
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I hear what you are stating, of course both settings are ideal and since the 19mm has rotation between the two settings as well it doesn't get any better for FX,,,
Agree the price hurts even though it appears the lens is a mechanical marvel as well as optical,,,
Price is equal to buying an additional D810 and two samples of the 20mm 1.8 AFS for dedicated 'one shot' two images (Two cameras two lenses) stitching ready images,,, :o
Then the nodal point is shifted,,, damn ::)
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Front lens cap for the 19mm is a new type not seen before, bayonet mount similar to the modern lens hoods,,,
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Aha. The enigma of the bayonet mount on the front of the 19 mm is solved.
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Plastic of course
The times of metal caps for extreme wide angle lenses appear to be over
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I do hope the lens "cap" is felt-padded on the inside... otherwise scratching the bulbous front element might be an issue.
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Macro TILT adapter adaptor for Nikon lens to Nikon SLR/DSLR
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Macro-TILT-adapter-adaptor-for-Nikon-lens-to-Nikon-SLR-DSLR-camera-NEW-in-USA-/130713097009?hash=item1e6f1b9331:g:JRQAAOxyaRZR1JpM
This actually works well. Yes, it is limited to one tilt, but the whole thing rotates 360-degrees, giving you a lot of variation. An inexpensive solution.
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I do hope the lens "cap" is felt-padded on the inside... otherwise scratching the bulbous front element might be an issue.
If it won't, I'll do it...
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The lens cap costs around 7,000 JPY! :o :o :o
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The lens cap costs around 7,000 JPY! :o :o :o
Yeah... and the EU price for the lens is around 4000€
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I can confirm that there is no felt inside the hard lens cap. There is a fair bit of clearance though...
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Thanks for the detail! These are now shipping/ being delivered so we should soon see some images,,, reviews
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Yeah... and the EU price for the lens is around 4000€
Grays of Westminster's (a large Nikon store in London) price for the 19mm is £3299 which is about 3650 EUR.
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Price will remain high for this product I'm afraid,,, It's a specialist tool,,, difficult decision!
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Price will remain high for this product I'm afraid,,, It's a specialist tool,,, difficult decision!
Well, the price of the 17mm TS-E from Canon has fallen about 28% since its original launch. I would expect a similar trend for the Nikon 19mm over the longer term.
I noticed the 300 PF has fallen from 2200€ to 1600€ locally, in just 1.5 years since launch.
The 24-70E was 2600€ at launch and now 1900€.
Early buyers pay a heavy premium.
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Wow I was not aware that the 17mm was that much down,,, The PC-E Nikkors seem to hold their price level,,,
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It took me 2 years to get the 80-400G a $1000 off the initial price... 2 years, but 1K less... For working pro it is a month to compensate, or maybe even less, a week, but for poor retired me it is worth to wait! Everyone for each own... LZ
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Well, the price of the 17mm TS-E from Canon has fallen about 28% since its original launch. I would expect a similar trend for the Nikon 19mm over the longer term.
I noticed the 300 PF has fallen from 2200€ to 1600€ locally, in just 1.5 years since launch.
The 24-70E was 2600€ at launch and now 1900€.
Early buyers pay a heavy premium.
No price fall for those lenses over here. ???
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I've never done a formal lens review, but I can sure say that I'm loving this lens so far!
(https://c2.staticflickr.com/6/5761/30065436383_f30475fb58_m.jpg) (https://c2.staticflickr.com/6/5761/30065436383_f30475fb58_b.jpg)
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Then it's about time you start making reviews! ;)
Congratulations btw!
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Then it's about time you start making reviews! ;)
Congratulations btw!
+1
Please share your thoughts of it and some photos as well.
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Hopefully I can get some photos up soon. :)
Right away I can say how much more pronounced the effects of all the movements are compared to my (very enjoyable) 85mm PC
I miss the manual aperture ring of the former, currently my commelite adapter to put this on my Sony A7rii for full frame goodness is stuck at f4...
On my D500, this is a joy to use.
No issues with clearance on the camera.
Being able to adjust the axis of tilt and shift independently is awesome!
Because the hinge axis distance is dependent on the focal length you can get near and far objects in focus much easier than with the 85. Because of the narrower field of view, if you have the focus plane parallel to the lens optical axis (perpendicular to the focal plane of a traditional lens - perfect for pointing the lens horizontal and having a horizontal plane in focus to infinity - as if I were at the Bonneville salt flats, for instance) the focal plane is 60cm below the camera at 8.5 degrees of tilt focus at infinity on the 85. That plane doesn't intersect the field of view for several meters so the distant mountains cant be sharp as well as a very nearby flower. At 19mm, even though it only tilts to 7.5 degrees, that horizontal plane is only 6 inches below the camera, and with the wide FoV sharp objects can be inches away and in focus, along with those distant mountains! It is amazing. Shift is also similarly exaggerated. The close focus untilted is very nice too.
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Could you share some full frame images? Thanks.
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Sample photos here
http://nikonrumors.com/2016/11/03/some-sample-photos-from-the-new-nikon-pc-19mm-f4e-ed-lens.aspx/#more-108513
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Aha - familiar scenes so I can compare with better understanding as to what the lens can or cannot accomplish.
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Thanks,
The outdoor church image has some CA that can easily be removed, but it's there; Purple fringing and green, look upper edge and upper right leaves,,,
The image quality on the D810 is perfect as far as I can see,,,
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Hopefully I can find some subjects as pretty as those this weekend!
I'll post some cropped and some full frame, but FF will all be at f4 only as my adapter doesn't allow me to control the aperture and my Nikon bodies are all crop sensors.
-Royal
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i've only had the 19 for a few hours, but i love it! the new design with the independent shift/tilt axes is really simple and easy, and the new shift knob is much easier to grab blindly and also much easier to keep in place thanks to the absence of the tensioner/lock.
i only had a few minutes to shoot in between meetings this afternoon, but here's a couple, all of unremarkable subjects around my office.
(http://www.431.org/misc/1177-frontStreet-2048.jpg)
(http://www.431.org/misc/1183-marketStreet-2048.jpg)
(http://www.431.org/misc/1207-oneBush-2048.jpg)
(http://www.431.org/misc/1219-salesForce-2048.jpg)
(http://www.431.org/misc/1234-transbay-2048.jpg)
(http://www.431.org/misc/1272-181fremont-2048.jpg)
(http://www.431.org/misc/1282-350mission-2048.jpg)
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these are torture tests of a sort, shifted the full distance or nearly the full distance on the long axis, and often shooting into the light. sharpness around the full image circle is improved from the 24mm, but not absolutely perfect. i definitely saw some CA, but it cleaned up easily and certainly far less than the 24mm.
the only question now is whether to sell the 24 or keep both. hmmmmm
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Looks good. The sharpness decline at the extreme edges seems better managed than the 24 PCE I had for a while.
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Looks very good
Thanks
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Thank you for the samples! And congratulations, it seem 'we' have two 19mm PC-E already ;D
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i played around with that lens. the build quality is top-notch :o :o :o
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Hopefully I can find some subjects as pretty as those this weekend!
I'll post some cropped and some full frame, but FF will all be at f4 only as my adapter doesn't allow me to control the aperture and my Nikon bodies are all crop sensors.
-Royal
f/4 will do nicely,,, Thanks
I'm still completely undecided on this lens if I really need it or not, can't make up my mind ::)
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these are torture tests of a sort, shifted the full distance or nearly the full distance on the long axis, and often shooting into the light. sharpness around the full image circle is improved from the 24mm, but not absolutely perfect. i definitely saw some CA, but it cleaned up easily and certainly far less than the 24mm.
the only question now is whether to sell the 24 or keep both. hmmmmm
Thanks, second image, the reflections in the windows and all, wow it looks nice, looking at distortion the elements in the bottom of the images looks really natural although they are at 19mm,,,
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The image circle is unlikely to be at its largest at f/4. I wonder if it is possible to set the aperture to f/8 using the D500 and somehow disconnect the lens and body without returning the lens to f/4?
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The image circle is unlikely to be at its largest at f/4. I wonder if it is possible to set the aperture to f/8 using the D500 and somehow disconnect the lens and body without returning the lens to f/4?
Pull out the battery?
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That is what Bjørn did with the 105mm AFS 1.4 E,,, to have it work on an extension ring without contacts,,,
But for a start seeing image quality at f/4 would be completely OK, for me,,,
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Decided to buy the 24 mm f/3,5 PC-E first
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Well if you get one at a good price! ;) Maybe there will be a whole new line of PC-E coming soon, well who knows,,,
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Well if you get one at a good price! ;) Maybe there will be a whole new line of PC-E coming soon, well who knows,,,
Got one second hand like new originally boxed for 1100 Euro. Took it although tilt and shift axis can't be changed against each other. There might be a new line but it might as well take longer, as well as we will see when the 19 mm will be availabe. I decided not to wait as the 19 mm is a wonderful lens and the test shots here are very convincing but not a replacement for what I intend to do with the 24. Maybe it will be added in the future when the price does not frighten me or has come down a little bit.
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that's a great deal, and you'll love the 24. it's been my most or second-most used lens for years.
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The image circle is unlikely to be at its largest at f/4. I wonder if it is possible to set the aperture to f/8 using the D500 and somehow disconnect the lens and body without returning the lens to f/4?
Set the aperture, then push the depth-of-field preview button on the camera concurrently as you remove the lens. The aperture stays put when you put the lens on to another camera.
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Nice secondhand price!
Thanks Bjørn :)
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that's a great deal, and you'll love the 24. it's been my most or second-most used lens for years.
I am satisfied with this deal and its too early to say much but so far I have a good impression.
I keep being interest in what the 19 mm will bring, no need (and impossible) to acquire everything at once.
Thx Bjørn for this advice
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Schwett's samples look excellent. Nikon is on a roll with the new lenses.
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at f/4:
(http://www.431.org/misc/1315-polkStreet-2048.jpg)
more evident in this photo, the far corners fully shifted are not very good. but it improves quickly and the "edges" just in from the corners are acceptable even at f/4.
(http://www.431.org/misc/1303-polkStreet-2048.jpg)
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Ai, ai... you are not helping the cause... :P
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Thanks the images are quite crisp! Very nice.
What Sony is this?
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They may not be pretty, but here are some full frame shots.
Another nice thing, you can focus beyond infinity to give you control of tilted plane of focus beyond aligned with lens axis. :)
https://www.flickr.com/photos/144986562@N07/albums/72157675054003430
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Another nice thing, you can focus beyond infinity to give you control of tilted plane of focus beyond aligned with lens axis. :)
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That only implies the Scheimpflug principle is violated.
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I don't think so...
The hinge point remains the same, but the plane of tilt goes past horizontal. At infinity focus, the Sheimpflug point and the hinge point are equidistant from the camera, giving the axis-aligned plane. Past infinity the scheimpflug point is slightly nearer the camera than the hinge point giving a tilted plane, just tilted in the opposite direction than for nearer than infinity focus.
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You are probably overdoing the tilt or moving the camera too low, both situations will cause violations of the Scheimpflug set up and cause trouble getting distant objects into focus along their entire vertical dimension. Typically one sees the tree tops or mountain peaks in sharp focus and their base is off.
A familiar situation for view camera users until one realises what movements can or cannot do. Been there myself.
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Yes! That is exactly the common scenario. Regardless of the degree of tilt, at infinity focus the plane of focus will be parallel to the optical axis. With longer focal lengths, that plane is displaced further away. J=f / sin theta.
With a longer focal length TS lens, for example, the 85mm, this means that even fully tilted there can be quite a few near objects at the edge of the frame which are out of focus. To bring them in focus, the photographer will use the focus ring and bring the focus closer, which tilts the plane of focus up (if the lens is tilted down) but it still passes through the hinge point. Hence, when the near objects are in focus the tilted plane now puts the mountain tops in focus and not their bases because of the upward tilted focus plane. What is so delightful with the 19mm is that not only is the focus plane much less displaced (lower f means lower J), but the increased field of view means this focus plane intersects the view frustrum much closer to the camera making it far, far easier to have near and distant objects in focus within the frame. It truly allows images that just aren't possible without these movements!
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Almost needless to say, making such use of a very wide angle tilt/shift lens really necessitates a camera with excellent LiveView performance. For example, I wouldn't trust my D800 to take on such a challenge.
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That matches my experience. Live view, and in particular focus peaking, really help visualize these effects.
As I'm certain most of us on here do, if Bjorn R. says something that conflicts with what you think you know, you should immediately
double check your ideas, because chances are it is you, and not Bjorn, who is mistaken.
In order to test what I thought I knew about the focus plane I set up a ruler against the wall, and made a mark near the camera, 12 inches up the wall, perhaps 15 feet from the ruler.
Carefully set up and leveled my camera with the 19mm on it.
I measured the height of the camera from the floor, and then used tilt and focus to get the mark and the 12 inch point in focus.
The camera was 23-24 inches high (best estimate of the center of the sensor plane) so with the formula J=f/ sin theta 23-24 inches is 11-12 inches above the 12 inch mark and theta should be 3.6-3.9 degrees and focus should be infinity.
It was just under the 4 degree mark and at infinity.
The I focused further, and you can see the focus plane down the right wall. Now the camera is still level, with the same lens tilt, but by focusing beyond infinity I now have the downward tilted focus plane.
Whew! This is exactly as I would expect and as described by the Sheimplug principle.
I'm going to have a lot of fun with this lens. Going to Florida for Thanksgiving, should be some long flat beach vistas to photograph!
-Royal
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I'll also point out that, despite all the fancy coatings, there are some situations in which you get quite a bit of flare...
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Almost needless to say, making such use of a very wide angle tilt/shift lens really necessitates a camera with excellent LiveView performance. For example, I wouldn't trust my D800 to take on such a challenge.
This is a big consideration of mine, although the D810 has quite good Live View it will still require a lot of rear screen pixel peeping to nail both focus, tilt and shift movements and a tripod,,,
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This is a big consideration of mine, although the D810 has quite good Live View it will still require a lot of rear screen pixel peeping to nail both focus, tilt and shift movements and a tripod,,,
For the first three years I was trying to use tilt in landscapes and close-ups, I had rather poor rate of technical success, but eventually I figured out how to do it so that I get consistent results on a routine basis.
This might not work for someone else but here is my procedure for adjusting tilt. I first frame the shot normally and focus on the main area of interest in the image. Then, using the optical viewfinder, I simultaneously adjust tilt and focus to get them as precisely correct as I can within the limitations of my eyesight and the viewfinder. After this I turn on live view, open up the aperture and refine focus on the main subject. Then I stop down the lens to shooting aperture (my preferred landscape aperture is around f/9, but if the subject deviates from a plane by a lot, then I may stop down further to f/11 or even deeper). I take a shot. Then I evaluate the result and see if it acceptable across the image area. Usually it is but sometimes there is an area which is still not sharp enough. I may then redo the procedure trying to get it more precisely correct. If the dual area split live view view on the D810 is applicable to setting tilt and focus, I use that. Basically this is applicable in situations where I'm doing a near-to-far landscape as a vertical composition.
Zooming in the live view image and scrolling around by itself doesn't work for me for adjusting tilt as I need to see the effects on the whole image at the same time. With the OVF I can get the focus and tilt close enough so that I can just refine the focus at one point using LV and the error in the tilt is so small that I can usually ignore it.
There are shortcomings to PC lenses - lower contrast, some propensity to flare etc. compared to regular non-tilt-shift lenses, and this might be more severe on the 19mm due to the lack of possibility to use a hood. Using your hand or some black object as a flag to block unwanted point light source from hitting the front element of the lens may work at times if the light source is just outside of the image area.
Thanks for everyone who posted images.
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Ilkka, thx - will try your roadbook next time
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Thank You Illka, you confirm my concerns!
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In the old times of film I used view cameras and a 10X loupe to study the groundglass thoroughly when setting up the camera for any shot requiring tilt and/or shift. Making focusing errors on 4x5" sheet film is not something you would like to develop as a habit, I can assure.
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I believe you :)
Considering I will have to set up on a tripod with the 19mm to adjust tilt and shift to get everything perfect, I might as well use stitching, since that is much more just setting everything to manual decide on focus and shoot. For architecture that is ;)
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Just got my review sample of the 19/4.
It appears to be a remarkable optic for visible light photography. A quick test indicates it does have a small hot spot in IR, though, although the general flare behaviour is kept better under control than what most wide lenses exhibit in IR.
A couple snapshots with the D500, wrong glasses on so focusing is hit and miss, mostly the latter. No Live View usage either.
Straight off camera via Photo Ninja. The newspaper front page was shot at around 30 degrees inclination so there is an exaggerated depth feeling to the image. The photo store interior (Interfoto, Oslo) was shot with ever so slight amount of upwards tilt.
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looking very much forward to your findings!
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Got an opportunity for a short try of the PC-E 19 mm. I am very impressed. My new 24 mm PC-E showed me that there'd be a good use for the 19 mm as well.
What i found one of the most important things (besides the ability of adjusting the tilt axis against the shift axis) ist the new shift mechanism, that brings back a little what I missed before when comparing to the old 28 mm f/3,5 PC lens, the shift mechanism of the 85 PC and 24 mm PC-E is really annoying.
Below there is both the 24 and the 19 mm besides each other
(no more aperture ring and stop down button any more btw)
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Bjorn, would it be possible to see how much shift the 19mm PC allows along the long dimension of the frame using an FX camera before vignetting or edge softness becomes noticeable? Thanks.
How is the close-up image quality vs. long distance? The 24 PC has a reasonable close-up capability and seems to function best at intermediate distances whereas at long distances the field curvature can be tricky to deal with (requires focusing on a particular point and stopping down quite deep). I am particularly interested in the 19mm PC to avoid this problem when photographing large buildings. The specifications of the 19mm PC show that its minimum magnification is not quite as good as the 24 PC's though.
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I'll attend to these matters during the weekend, Ilkka. At present I'm busy with the 70-200/2.8 E.
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This is one of very few new lenses that has caught my interest in a long time.
I already have the 24mm and 85mm PC-E, and I like the way they force me to slow down the photographing process.
The 19mm PC-E will certainly complement the other two, and it seems to be an excellent performer.
I want one, now.
Shame about the price though. I do have two kidneys, but need only one. Hmmm.... ;D
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This is one of very few new lenses that has caught my interest in a long time.
I already have the 24mm and 85mm PC-E, and I like the way they force me to slow down the photographing process.
The 19mm PC-E will certainly complement the other two, and it seems to be an excellent performer.
I want one, now.
Shame about the price though. I do have two kidneys, but need only one. Hmmm.... ;D
You still have two arms, two legs, two lungs...
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No amount of spare human parts can substitute for co-operative weather ... It's rain and fog outside now, a hopeless situation for the exploration of an expensive optic the welfare of the review sample for which I'm entirely responsible while testing. I would probably never get the shimmering bulbous front clean again if subjected to the dreary inclement conditions outdoors at present.
Then, as I could not steer my curiosity away, I commenced experimenting with adding extension to the 19 PC-E. Anything from PK-11/11a or thicker would bring the plane of focus into the optical assembly itself, thus not very helpful. The K-1 did work though if focus was set away from the native near limit. However, sooner or later you get the focus plane touching the front element so be extremely careful and don't blame me if you blatantly ignore Nikon's stern advice NOT to use such an item in combination with the 19 PC-E. Getting the lens stopped down from the f/4 maximum is easy, though, by setting aperture on a camera supporting E lenses, then press the stop-down concurrently as the lens is removed from the camera. The aperture will stay put at whatever setting you selected. An insider's trick making it possible to use 'E' lenses on even the oldest of Nikons such as the F and F2 models.
Doing this with a hand-held camera indoors, and the K-1 ring added to the lens, in rather poor light is an exercise in Zen approach to the impossible. Any way, here is the tangible proof of the impossible. (one of my staple medications with a nice Braille inscription for the visual impaired on the box). Df, 19 mm f/4 PC-E at f/8.
Don't forget this goes against ALL recommendations from the Mothership.
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I'm disappointed that no further reviews or images has appeared in this thread ,,,
Michael mentioned in another thread that Lloyd Chambers has a posted an 'early findings' review on his Blog:
https://diglloyd.com/
You will need to pay a 60$ subscription :o
Lloyd Chambers gives some pointers to the quality of the 19mm, and raises a few concerns, when actually shooting with it on a D810; Field curvature has a huge impact on the scheimpflug principle when applied in actual use in the field.
I don't understand that he doesn't use a lens ring like the ones from Nodal Ninja for his Medium back stitching with the D810 - I'm also surprised he doesn't use PT Gui for stitching, it's far superior to Photoshop in every way,,,
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Bjørn Rørslett: Could you be a little more clear about the dangers of using the K-1 Ring. Of course, that is the first thing I would like to do, but I failed to grasp the possible problem of doing so. I get my copy today.
As for Lloyd Chambers, he has many pages by subscription on the 19mm PC lens, lots of photos, and how to approach balancing out the focus problems.
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Yes he does but mainly on hindsight, since he was not aware of the field curvature for his first test images.
I find Lloyds comments on focus shift a little funny,,, Mainly the summary should be that it is one hell of a sharp lens.
Re K1 ring, what Bjørn writes is that part of the plane of focus will be inside the lens, not any danger to you or the lens :)
Congratulations on the new lens. Enjoy
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From my understanding adding the K1 will bring the object, to be focused, so closed to the front element of the lens, that you'll probably touch it risking damage.
Anyway mine is here too, and wow :)
Nikon has spoiled us lately with a bunch of spectacular lenses (24-70VR, 70-200E, 105 f1.4 and the gorgeous 19mm PC)
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Indeed Pedro!
Here is the lens ring (collar) for Canon 17mm
http://www.hartblei.de/en/canon-tse-collar.htm
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I get it. Be careful not to touch the subject with the front element when using extension.
I have wanted a wide/angle T/S lens for years. I have bought and tried almost every ultra wide-angle (with no T/S), but the quality was not up there. The 19mm is is not ultra-wide, but wide enough to be really useful. I am glad Nikon is finally making better lenses. I am in the process of selling off all three of my PC-E lenses; they are just not corrected enough for my taste. Also selling my 14-24 and 24-70 f/2.8 lenses, and (believe it or not) my 135mm DC. I just don't use it. I am moving away from having a "museum" to having fewer lenses, but ones that are outstanding and that I actually use.
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The 19mm is like a 12-14mm with the mentioned use of shift - so definitely an Ultra-Wide angle lens!
PS the Hartblei collar is restricting shift to one direction only,,, just a warning :)
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I do panoramics using a panoramic rail, and use the shift to off center the horizon. I don't shift the lens to get the consitituent images but simply rotate the rig on the panorama setup. The distortion can be easily handled by stitching software. I suppose shifting to get the parts has the advantage of avoiding mismatches due to distortion. However, I simply prefer the ability to shift the horizon and don't find the mismatches to be problematic in practice.
I see more of a continuum in steadily improving image quality in the Nikon system (lenses and cameras) instead of any particular "jumps." However, as lens prices increase much faster than inflation, it would seem few people are actually going to benefit from the latest improvements. A lot of people will have to look elsewhere.
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OK. The 19mm PC-E arrived, less than two hours ago and I had to let it warm up. Here are a couple of shots taken in our kitchen with the Nikoin D810. They are short stacks of three or four layers, with a clumsy attempt to start figuring out how best to use tilt. Vertical tilt used here, but this is going to be a learning curve. I use tilt a lot with close-up, where it is very easy to see the effect, but here, FF, as others have said.... I have got some learning to do.
The lens is smaller than I imagined, which is good. It is, of course, solid. Finally, for my work, all of the different ways to shift, tilt, rotate, etc. are all there and are wonderful. It took me a while to figure out there is a separate LOCK on tilt, so be warned. As for IQ, too soon to tell. It is not as sharp as the Otus (Otii), but sharp enough considering it is very wide. I will have to do a lot of playing around, and mostly inside, since it is bitter cold right now, with nights near zero. All in all I am pleased, but I have a lot of experimenting to do before I can say for sure. Certainly it is years ahead of my three PC-E lenses, which I am going to get rid of. I am grateful Nikon finally has gone for more quality in lenses, like Zeiss did with the Otus. I did not finish the photos, but I did play with it some, so these are not just right out of the camera. Didn't have time to do both, right now.
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Indeed it's a lens that you should read the instructions, as we never do...
That lock lever is cleverly disguised, thought.
Used to others TS, so mainly the same usage here, but much more control on this lens.
Like Michael stated not so big as expected, neither heavy. But that front element, man, it's huge and clear.
First couple of shoots showed to be very sharp even wide open.
In a couple of weeks a special project is waiting for it. Till then.
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Not sure if anyone is interested, but here is where I am with the PC-E 19mm Nikon Lens.
Of course, I am only working it to my ends, which usually involve focus stacking, and I can't really take it outside in this weather, as another 8-10 inches of snow fell last night, etc.
The lens is not as sharp or as well corrected as the Otus series. However, it is sharp, and considering that it puts so much in focus, the lack of the utmost acuity is probably tolerable, especially if I can remember that I will be using this for landscape and not tabletop or studio work... unless (there always is the chance) that I find some useful way of using it close-up.
Considering that I stack and that stacks themselves are rife with artifacts unless very carefully done, in some respects this lens avoids having to stack at the sacrifice of a little bit of "sharpness."
I have not experimented with any chromatic aberration or whatever, but I will get around to that. Before I do much tilting or shifting I need to do some straight shooting. Here is one short stack (three) with the Nikon D810. At 100%, it is tolerable, even OK, but with this lens (at least for me) the concept of "impressionism" is important to keep in mind.
The lens cap, which is new for me, is a hard shell cap with a positive lock and requires a button pressed to release it. Since with the lens I won’t walk around with the lens cap off, I am glad it can’t slip off.
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michael, thanks for the close-up example.
lloyd chambers' observations on the lens are useful with regard to field curvature and focus shift. i took some time this morning in the dead of our local winter to experiment a little with stitching using the dovetail clamp on my camera and tripod as an ad-hoc "rail." full shift down with the camera slid 12mm "up" in the clamp, then centered, then the opposite, and parallax is neatly avoided for anything at a reasonable distance from the lens. the resultant 70ish mp images are not pin sharp all the way to the edges at the level of individual pixels, but even cut in 1/2 in each dimension they are big files and tons of detail is apparent.
here's a square take from just two frames, capturing a number of curious moments of light both direct and reflected on the rusticated concrete facade of a telecommunications building which has now found itself in the middle of high-rise residential towers.
(http://www.431.org/ng/3548-switching-2048.jpg)
this 100% crop from the extreme left side with only a bit of sharpening in ACR shows the slight softness that f/8 and perhaps a slight focus error show. of course, keep in mind the scale of this relative to the overall image.
(http://www.431.org/ng/3548cropA.jpg)
and compared to a point nearer the center of the frame:
(http://www.431.org/ng/3548cropB.jpg)
the sharpness of areas in the road further towards the side and front suggest that what's happening is both the natural loss of sharpness towards the edge of the image and the "plane" of focus curving towards the camera at the edges.
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Here is a shot done with the Zeiss Otus 28mm APO lens. This, like the earlier shots, is a stack of a few layers. It is superior to the 19mm PC-E enough, that I question if I want to keep the 19mm PC-E. Your thoughts?
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From the specifications, it would seem the 19 PC is not optimized for close-ups; the other modern PC Nikkors have greater maximum magnification ratios. I would think therefore the 19mm is designed primarily for larger subjects. I would try using it for some near-to-far landscapes to see how it works for those subjects; some flower, mossy, icy rocks in the foreground perhaps, and then trees in the background that can be held vertical without keystoning while the tilt ensures enough near to far sharpness for the foreground and the background at least stopped down (I typically use f/11 for these shots since there is usually some 3D shape in the subject matter). These are some of my favorite subjects for the 24 PC.
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From the specifications, it would seem the 19 PC is not optimized for close-ups; the other modern PC Nikkors have greater maximum magnification ratios. I would think therefore the 19mm is designed primarily for larger subjects. I would try using it for some near-to-far landscapes to see how it works for those subjects; some flower, mossy, icy rocks in the foreground perhaps, and then trees in the background that can be held vertical without keystoning while the tilt ensures enough near to far sharpness for the foreground and the background at least stopped down (I typically use f/11 for these shots since there is usually some 3D shape in the subject matter). These are some of my favorite subjects for the 24 PC.
I hear you. But even when I tested both lenses straight-on (no tilt or shift), the 19mm PCE was (IMO) just short of my being able to ignore its lack of acuity. I wish it did not bug me, but it did. As for near or far, perhaps some distance helps, but when it comes to being sharp or not, that would come across near and far, only in far it might be harder to see. But you know me, I would manage to see it anyway. If I don't keep this lens, then I will have to get the virtual equivalent of tilt by focus stacking -- virtual DOF.
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Michael, the colors from the flower with the Nikon seem to be warmer (more pleasing :)) than with the Otus, is that due to the lens or due to development?
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Michael, the colors from the flower with the Nikon seem to be warmer (more pleasing :)) than with the Otus, is that due to the lens or due to development?
Hard to say. Different lenses do color differently. I like the Zeiss, but I was not looking for color here, but for the degree of acuity. The Zeiss has it; the Nikon, just shy of what I need in a lens, but nice. Probably less noticeable outside, but we have lots of snow outside just now and more coming. Don't want to damage this lens in case I return, which I may.
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michael, thanks for the close-up example.
lloyd chambers' observations on the lens are useful with regard to field curvature and focus shift. i took some time this morning in the dead of our local winter to experiment a little with stitching using the dovetail clamp on my camera and tripod as an ad-hoc "rail." full shift down with the camera slid 12mm "up" in the clamp, then centered, then the opposite, and parallax is neatly avoided for anything at a reasonable distance from the lens. the resultant 70ish mp images are not pin sharp all the way to the edges at the level of individual pixels, but even cut in 1/2 in each dimension they are big files and tons of detail is apparent.
here's a square take from just two frames, capturing a number of curious moments of light both direct and reflected on the rusticated concrete facade of a telecommunications building which has now found itself in the middle of high-rise residential towers.
[...]
this 100% crop from the extreme left side with only a bit of sharpening in ACR shows the slight softness that f/8 and perhaps a slight focus error show. of course, keep in mind the scale of this relative to the overall image.
[...]
and compared to a point nearer the center of the frame:
[...]
the sharpness of areas in the road further towards the side and front suggest that what's happening is both the natural loss of sharpness towards the edge of the image and the "plane" of focus curving towards the camera at the edges.
I like what I see here.
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michael, thanks for the close-up example.
lloyd chambers' observations on the lens are useful with regard to field curvature and focus shift. i took some time this morning in the dead of our local winter to experiment a little with stitching using the dovetail clamp on my camera and tripod as an ad-hoc "rail." full shift down with the camera slid 12mm "up" in the clamp, then centered, then the opposite, and parallax is neatly avoided for anything at a reasonable distance from the lens. the resultant 70ish mp images are not pin sharp all the way to the edges at the level of individual pixels, but even cut in 1/2 in each dimension they are big files and tons of detail is apparent.
here's a square take from just two frames, capturing a number of curious moments of light both direct and reflected on the rusticated concrete facade of a telecommunications building which has now found itself in the middle of high-rise residential towers.
this 100% crop from the extreme left side with only a bit of sharpening in ACR shows the slight softness that f/8 and perhaps a slight focus error show. of course, keep in mind the scale of this relative to the overall image.
and compared to a point nearer the center of the frame:
the sharpness of areas in the road further towards the side and front suggest that what's happening is both the natural loss of sharpness towards the edge of the image and the "plane" of focus curving towards the camera at the edges.
Thanks, the overall image looks good, but the uneven sharpness looks strange, yes probably focus is off,,, A lens this sharp is very demanding especially if you attempt to stitch,,,
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Indeed Pedro!
Here is the lens ring (collar) for Canon 17mm
http://www.hartblei.de/en/canon-tse-collar.htm
The JMBS Jumbo MultiBigShoot Plus support doesn't work with the 19mm
Do you know a bracket for it?
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Hard to say. Different lenses do color differently. I like the Zeiss, but I was not looking for color here, but for the degree of acuity. The Zeiss has it; the Nikon, just shy of what I need in a lens, but nice. Probably less noticeable outside, but we have lots of snow outside just now and more coming. Don't want to damage this lens in case I return, which I may.
michael, it seems like your intended use of the lens doesn't line up exactly with it's strengths. it's definitely not a "close up" lens, except in the sense that wide angle landscape and architecture work often has a near subject. but i don't think you'll get the kind of detail out of it that makes your work with the APO lenses so compelling.
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There is also the thin possibility that Michael's copy of the 19mm is 'off' by a small amount of manufacturing error; within Nikon specs, perhaps, but variant enough to be detected.
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Michael, the colors from the flower with the Nikon seem to be warmer (more pleasing :)) than with the Otus, is that due to the lens or due to development?
Well,,, apart from the obvious - Two very different focal length and design criteria, a 1.4 made for perfection wide open and the other a ultra wide angle made for large image circle tilt shift work,,, The light and white balance are very different in the two images, that is quite clear when you look at the back ground cloth; First image is black and the light is almost flat/soft or muted - in the next the cloth is blue and the window light is brighter.
What aperture was these shot at?
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There is also the thin possibility that Michael's copy of the 19mm is 'off' by a small amount of manufacturing error; within Nikon specs, perhaps, but variant enough to be detected.
That is maybe a little early to state ;)
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After some consideration, I've decided that, for my work, the 19mm PC-E would not add that much. Ultimately, the acuity is just south of what I consider necessary. It is sharp, but not exactly sharp as I need it. I know that others will respond that I don't know how to focus it, and there is focus shift, distortion, and all that to consider.
Granted, it is difficult to focus, especially when tilt is involved, but we all know that. It is the widest lens I have used that includes the tilt movement, and I have to admit that it is a bear to focus. Not easy. And it could just be me, but I find the results not jumping out at me as I had hoped. I am sorry about that.
And the worst impression I've had is that here is just “another” Nikon lens with some movements. But whatever the reason, it does not movie me. However, the Nikon El Nikkor 105mm APO grabs me, as do the Printing Nikkors, the Noct, and many of the "exotic" industrial lenses, as well as those for Large Format lenses like the 120mm Nikkor AM-ED, etc.
If this tells you anything, I am also selling off the three Nikkor PC-E lenses I have (24, 45, 85mm), and the Nikon 14-24mm and 24-70mm zoom lenses. They no longer grab me either, and are not well-corrected enough for my work. The bottom line is that I don’t find myself using them.
I wish that the PC-E 19mm would have been what I hoped it would be, and it is nice, but at the price of a Zeiss Otus, it is not of that quality. I am looking at (eternally hopeful!) the new Nikon Milvus 18mm lens that is about to be released.
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Until i figure out how to upload attachments inline with text i am protecting the images as i don't want them displayed global - my kitchen
i apologize in advance for the subject matter of my kitchen.. weather and work have precluded using the lens outside for now.. these were taken a couple of weeks ago when i received the lens. I am not all that happy with the performance at $3.6k Especially the distortion when fully shifted as well as flare.
Nikon D810 ,PC NIKKOR 19mm f/4E ED
1/20s f/8.0 at 19.0mm iso800
(http://www.pbase.com/bobfriedman/image/164602521/original.jpg)
cropped from above
(http://www.pbase.com/bobfriedman/image/164602586/original.jpg)
Nikon D810 ,Carl Zeiss ZF2 Distagon T* f2.8 15mm
1/15s f/5.6 at 15.0mm iso50
(http://www.pbase.com/bobfriedman/image/164606067/original.jpg)
Nikon D810 ,Nikkor AF-S 14-24mm f/2.8G ED
1/15s f/5.6 at 14.0mm iso500
(http://www.pbase.com/bobfriedman/image/164606068/original.jpg)
Nikon D810 ,PC NIKKOR 19mm f/4E ED
1/25s f/5.6 at 19.0mm iso400
(http://www.pbase.com/bobfriedman/image/164584419/original.jpg)
almost full tilt - forget exact number
Nikon D810 ,PC NIKKOR 19mm f/4E ED
1/6s f/5.6 at 19.0mm iso400
(http://www.pbase.com/bobfriedman/image/164584319/original.jpg)
cropped from above with PS perspective correction
(http://www.pbase.com/bobfriedman/image/164584309/original.jpg)
Moderator comment: Bob will upload the images again if/when possible -
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Bob you are comparing ISO 800 and ISO 50 - The light seems to be very different looking at the shadows on the floor?
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Bob you are comparing ISO 800 and ISO 50 - The light seems to be very different looking at the shadows on the floor?
should have been ISO=500.. cut it off..
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Use a tripod and base ISO if you're going to test image quality. It is very difficult use movements successfully without a tripod. I have used PC lenses for almost 20 years and would not even think about hand holding such shots. Even a tiniest error (movement in camera position or angle) ruins the whole effort. Live view should be used to finalize focusing and the image should be carefully inspected and reshot after tweaking the adjustments, if unsatisfactory. Preferably also the lens should be stopped down if movements are used, as the full image circle usually is only accessible through stopped down operation (at least in other PC Nikkor wide angles; I have not used the 19mm yet). If I recall correctly, the 24mm achieves its maximum image circle at around f/11. Thus that would be the typical aperture which I would use to gain the most from the movements. With the 85 PC-E I sometimes do shoot wide open for flower shots or portraits, for effect, but for architectural or landscape, I stop down.
I'm wondering why was perspective correction in software used for the last image? Should not the lens allow tilt and shift along the same axis, correcting keystoning using the shift and applying tilt without having to do warping in post (and lose sharpness and angle of view)? Or did the freedom of the movements or the image circle run out? Thanks.
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Apparently the 19E shows the least amount of flare. The contrast should be tough to manage...
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Use a tripod and base ISO if you're going to test image quality. It is very difficult use movements successfully without a tripod. I have used PC lenses for almost 20 years and would not even think about hand holding such shots. Even a tiniest error (movement in camera position or angle) ruins the whole effort. Live view should be used to finalize focusing and the image should be carefully inspected and reshot after tweaking the adjustments, if unsatisfactory. Preferably also the lens should be stopped down if movements are used, as the full image circle usually is only accessible through stopped down operation (at least in other PC Nikkor wide angles; I have not used the 19mm yet). If I recall correctly, the 24mm achieves its maximum image circle at around f/11. Thus that would be the typical aperture which I would use to gain the most from the movements. With the 85 PC-E I sometimes do shoot wide open for flower shots or portraits, for effect, but for architectural or landscape, I stop down.
I'm wondering why was perspective correction in software used for the last image? Should not the lens allow tilt and shift along the same axis, correcting keystoning using the shift and applying tilt without having to do warping in post (and lose sharpness and angle of view)? Or did the freedom of the movements or the image circle run out? Thanks.
did all that.. of course i used a tripod - check the exposure times
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by the way... this was not some formal test.. merely informal shots of my kitchen.. and i hesitated to post this as i password protected my pbase site since i don't want my kitchen on it..
until i figure out how to use the attachment feature correctly i have decided to re-apply the password
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I wonder why there are not lenses with tilt-only function for controlling the focus DOF/focus plane. I almost never wish for a shift-lens, but a tilt-lens would be very useful for macro and landscape. A tilt-only lens does not require a larger image circle like shift lenses, so the optics could as compact and affordable as a regular lens.
The tilt of the lens is for composition the shift of the chip holder for stitching
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Here is an example shot with the 24 PC, where I used the tilt movement to extend the sharpness from foreground to background, but because the movements are perpendicular to each other, I could not use shift to correct for the keystoning. With the 19mm this problem should be solved because it allows independent movements. It is often the case that I want more foreground than sky and prefer to position the horizon clearly above the midline of the frame. This can only be achieved using shift or cropping, and cropping is not so good in a superwide angle shot because it limits angle of view and reduces sharpness. If the camera is pointed down you get this kind of an effect which I can't help but think is sloppy work:
https://www.flickr.com/photos/ilkka_nissila/23868394779/in/dateposted-public/
I would prefer the icicles to be vertical and the cabin to stand straight. Yes, I get it that post-processing can fix such things with some loss of angle of view but the whole idea of perspective correction lenses is that you avoid having to make such compromises. Also, I just prefer to get it right out of the camera. Use of tilt rather than stacking in this type of subject matter has the advantage that the movement of ice floaters in water does not corrupt the process since a single image is usually enough. I find that focus stacking software can have difficulty with transparent and moving parts of the scene such as ice, water etc. Tilt is one tool which helps manage the situation.
A friend of mine has been using the Canon 17mm TS-E and 24 TS-E II for years. It is a little embarrassing that in the Nikon 24mm, the relative orientation of the tilt and shift axis cannot be adjusted on the fly. Since the 19mm is so expensive, and extreme in angle of view, I'm actually hoping that Nikon update the 24mm with a new design sooner than later. I have more use for 24mm than 19mm and don't like the fact that the 19mm can't take basic protection in the form of a hood.
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I wonder why there are not lenses with tilt-only function for controlling the focus DOF/focus plane. I almost never wish for a shift-lens, but a tilt-lens would be very useful for macro and landscape. A tilt-only lens does not require a larger image circle like shift lenses, so the optics could as compact and affordable as a regular lens.
A lens with only tilt would be severe limited in practice. You do need the shift in addition to keep the planes aligned where you need them and/or to trim the composition.
My first T/S lens was a modified 35 PC basically only with tilt. I quickly learned my lessons thus my next and improved modification, using a 28/3.5 PC as host, involved both kinds of movement.
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Wonderful capture of the floating ice and a very good example, Ilkka!
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So I have received my lens :) Almost to date at the darkest day of the year,,, So far I'm happy with the look and feel of the Architecture Eye :)
First surprise was the very familiar look of the front bayonet mount and sure enough it's a perfect match to the Beast 28-70mm AFS 2.8 and yes the Lens hood HB-19 slides right on :)
It will just need a tiny trimming to lock at the right point since the original lens cap LC-K101 has a small locking hatch.
I'll trim it to suit my most used shift & tilt requirements - by the looks of things it will be able to give a lot more protection than the bare glass front Eye,,,
Another possibility is to use a Lee Filter Wide Angle Bellows Lens Hood mounted on the HB-19,,, A little more old school look :)
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Erik The Problem Solver strikes again :D
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So I have received my lens :) Almost to date at the darkest day of the year,,, So far I'm happy with the look and feel of the Architecture Eye :)
First surprise was the very familiar look of the front bayonet mount and sure enough it's a perfect match to the Beast 28-70mm AFS 2.8 and yes the Lens hood HB-19 slides right on :)
It will just need a tiny trimming to lock at the right point since the original lens cap LC-K101 has a small locking hatch.
I'll trim it to suit my most used shift & tilt requirements - by the looks of things it will be able to give a lot more protection than the bare glass front Eye,,,
Another possibility is to use a Lee Filter Wide Angle Bellows Lens Hood mounted on the HB-19,,, A little more old school look :)
Eric, I am lost. How does this relate to the 19mm PC-E. What am I missing?
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Erik is discussing options for a lens hood or similar for his 19 mm f/4 PC-E Nikkor. Quite to the point I'd say.
This is highly interesting if the measure(s) can make the 19/4 more field-worthy or able to withstand more inclement weather.
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......more field-worthy or able to withstand more inclement weather.
these words from you mean you take it on your 1AW under water ? :o
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Erik is discussing options for a lens hood or similar for his 19 mm f/4 PC-E Nikkor. Quite to the point I'd say.
This is highly interesting if the measure(s) can make the 19/4 more field-worthy or able to withstand more inclement weather.
Now I understand. Thanks. Yes, the bulb sticks right out there in the world. It is beautiful indeed.
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A bit of trimming, with some measuring and the old warhorse Nikkor 14mm as inspiration, since the field of view is similar fully shifted in all directions.
(https://c4.staticflickr.com/1/563/31748473355_35f3eaed01_h.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Qnve2D)PC Nikkor 19mm 4E ED (https://flic.kr/p/Qnve2D) by Erik Gunst Lund (https://www.flickr.com/photos/erik_lund/), on Flickr
Gives some protection when handling the lens, works without vignetting as far as tested indoors with full shift & tilt, anyway you get the point as Bjørn stated ;)
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/461/30906547504_199113f8ce_h.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/P678NG)PC Nikkor 19mm 4E ED (https://flic.kr/p/P678NG) by Erik Gunst Lund (https://www.flickr.com/photos/erik_lund/), on Flickr
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I would prefer the icicles to be vertical and the cabin to stand straight. Yes, I get it that post-processing can fix such things with some loss of angle of view but the whole idea of perspective correction lenses is that you avoid having to make such compromises.
I agree completely still the photograph is a beautiful one. I agree with everything it that post.
Dave
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the hood...
i want one!.. unfortunately, my trimming job would not in any way appear as nice as that.
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A bit of trimming, with the old warhorse Nikkor 14mm as inspiration, since the field of view is similar fully shifted in all directions.
Very nice!
Dave
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Thanks!
I hope you noticed HB-19,,, ;D
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Thanks!
I hope you noticed HB-19,,, ;D
Hi Erik, I want one, make your price 8)
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these words from you mean you take it on your 1AW under water ? :o
Am afraid the 19 is not sufficiently water tight :D
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Erick: Great job! No vignetting?
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Thanks!
I hope you noticed HB-19,,, ;D
i did... and they are only 20 USD on eBay... but i could never cut them like that
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The hood improves the look of the "bulb" by a mile. You are the kind of guy that take "it can't be done" as a challenge, Erik ;D I tried a stitch with the 19 mm, but it wasn't my kind of lens so I left it for someone else to make scratches on the front element :)
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Nice job, as always, Erik!
So, HB-19 can also be converted to an emergency lens cap if the genuine one is lost and it is hard to find the replacement?
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There is an issue when rotating the lens,,, the lens HB-19 hood fits in horizontal tilt - if rotated for vertical tilt there will most likely be vignetting if also full shift is applied,,, - I'll have to field test, but basically if it's there just shave off some more or remove it for that situation.
Price is 50€ plus a HB-19 and shipping,,,
It is a nice DIY job - I can make a template in PDF to print and work from if anyone is interested, looks doesn't' really matter for how it works, what is important is a strong bayonet mount on the lens hood - and the HB-19 is strong!
It works very nice, the lens can stand upright or even tilted.
I would recommend to get a spare lens cap if you lose the original since it has a nice solid hatch lock.
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There is an issue when rotating the lens,,, the lens HB-19 hood fits in horizontal tilt - if rotated for vertical tilt there will most likely be vignetting if also full shift is applied,,, - I'll have to field test, but basically if it's there just shave off some more or remove it for that situation.
Price is 50€ plus a HB-19 and shipping,,,
It is a nice DIY job - I can make a template in PDF to print and work from if anyone is interested, looks doesn't' really matter for how it works, what is important is a strong bayonet mount on the lens hood - and the HB-19 is strong!
It works very nice, the lens can stand upright or even tilted.
I would recommend to get a spare lens cap if you lose the original since it has a nice solid hatch lock.
Yep, I am, and my HB-19 is ready...
So if you can send the pdf please.
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I will do a little vignette field testing, then I will upload it ;)
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Nice Blues Børge!
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really nice blue room.. i am going to have to look for something other than my kitchen.
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Here is a link to the template for cutting a HB-19 lens hood to fit PC Nikkor 19mm ED 4E without vignetting, as far as I have tested ;)
https://www.dropbox.com/s/ne4b2okiw2intrk/HB19%20template%20for%20Nikkor%2019mm%20.pdf?dl=0 (https://www.dropbox.com/s/ne4b2okiw2intrk/HB19%20template%20for%20Nikkor%2019mm%20.pdf?dl=0)
It is a PDF file from a scan, print 100% (Not fit to A4)
Or download this JPG from Flickr also 100%
(https://c3.staticflickr.com/1/550/31398862930_25b330b569_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/PQBo2G)HB19-template-for-Nikkor-19mm- (https://flic.kr/p/PQBo2G) by Erik Gunst Lund (https://www.flickr.com/photos/erik_lund/), on Flickr
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I did some test images at the office today but unfortunately there where some confidential documents on my desk,,, since the 19mm is so blindingly sharp every word is easily readable :o So not able to share them,,, :-X
Wow this is a fine piece of glass!
BTW no profile in my ACR but that doesn't matter the image is perfect as is, only CA issue was a tiny stripe of purple fringing looking blueish along the chrome on my pen,,,
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Many thanks Erik :)
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I finally had a short opportunity with some blue skies to do some quick test shots today, the lens certainly deliver adequate sharpness corner to corner no issues at all, here shot at f/11 with some shift, a typical architecture setting, no tilt as this was handheld, I just wanted to see how well the 19mm holds up on the D810.
(https://c6.staticflickr.com/6/5569/31840083965_221d960ba3_h.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/QvAKEV)_EGL9159 (https://flic.kr/p/QvAKEV) by Erik Gunst Lund (https://www.flickr.com/photos/erik_lund/), on Flickr
Fore and background are rendered nicely and camera/lens handles the trees/branches and the light post very well against the very bright sky, tiny amount of CA is handled nicely by ACR
Much more shooting is required to see how aperture setting change the sharpness for this combination - Here the detail holds up well for my purposes at f/11!
So far very happy also with the build quality of the 19mm
I think a dedicated lens collar could be so nice for tripod work. Tempting to do stitch-shifting with this lens! ;)
There is a nice cylindrical bit where the name plate is located, could clam onto that - It seems the shift control is unaffected even with the extra weight of the big battery grip on the D810, holding onto the lens and turning the shifting up or down.
Tilt is then fixed at a constant angle, if needed, but that should work for stitching,,,
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i do wish the focus helicoid was a bit stiffer.. like the zeiss. for manual a bit loose for my taste
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Focus is indeed super smooth, it's a rear focus lens so there is no extension of the lens.
The build quality seems to be outstanding! There could be a bit more length to the light baffle internally but that is nit picking,,,
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i find that the focus ring is very unforgiving if you happen to bump into it as well.. especially when making adjustments to tilt/shift.
i seem to recall that the PC Nikkor 85mm was not so loose.... but i no longer have that lens to check
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i find that the focus ring is very unforgiving if you happen to bump into it as well.. especially when making adjustments to tilt/shift.
i seem to recall that the PC Nikkor 85mm was not so loose.... but i no longer have that lens to check
Bob, good point, checked on all three PCE and all are very loose as well.
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Bob, good point, checked on all three PCE and all are very loose as well.
since they are manual focus there should be no reason that they need to be loose.
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As long as it stays in position and there is no slack, I prefer a manual focus ring that turns lightly over one that is tight in normal temperature but is too stiff or may jam and break in the cold (Zeiss 100/2 did this).
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The focus ring is just right for me. It is just like all other MF lenses RF and IF Nikkors by design, some longer lenses are more heavy dampened due to a longer helicoil.
You can have it serviced to have a more heavy grease type.
But if you do that you will rotate the whole lens especially the two rotation settings!
So it is really not an good idea to coppy Zeiss Otus here at all!
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how come the PC 85mm focus ring was stiffer?
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The first version? - Then it probably had a more firm rotation stetting.
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The 85 PC-E indeed has a stiffer focus ring but it has a much longer range of physical movement as the focal length is longer and the lens goes to 1:2 magnification. And yes, if you turn the focus ring and the rotation is between clicks, the rotational position will be messed up.
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Thank you for the confirmation!
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seems to me they could have designed i finer focusing helicoid for the 19mm PC-E
(the PC 85mm/2.8D i was talking about predated the PC-E version)
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Seems your sample is defective.
Mine is buttery smooth and very evenly dampened and withstand light tapping with a finger or even letting a finger slide over the grooves of the focus ring without rotating it.
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Seems your sample is defective.
Mine is buttery smooth and very evenly dampened and withstand light tapping with a finger or even letting a finger slide over the grooves of the focus ring without rotating it.
+1
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The TC-14E Mark III works fine on the PC-E 19mm as an PC-E 28mm :)
The TC of course needs to have the 'long lens only tap' removed from the front F-Mount,,,
Sharpness seems just fine and no apparent vignetteing even with 10mm shift
The TC-20E Mark III doesn't seem to fit,,, would not force it,,
The focus shift seems to be empty barrels too me since all focus fine tuning must be done in live view for all critical shots anyway,,, But of course good to be aware of!
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The TC-14E Mark III works fine on the PC-E 19mm as an PC-E 28mm :)
The TC of course needs to have the 'long lens only tap' removed from the front F-Mount,,,
Sharpness seems just fine and no apparent vignetteing even with 10mm shift
The TC-20E Mark III doesn't seem to fit,,, would not force it,,
The focus shift seems to be empty barrels too me since all focus fine tuning must be done in live view for all critical shots anyway,,, But of course good to be aware of!
Thanks Erik!
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Review of the PC-E 19mm - if anyone was in doubt about the ability of the lens, some nice MTF numbers on D810, quite impressive and confirms my own results. I'm very happy I chose this over the 15mm lens options, it suits my architectural work really well, Higher resolution into the edges as well as holding up while stopping down f/11 without dropping sharpness due to diffraction and almost zero fall off.
https://www.ephotozine.com/article/nikon-pc-nikkor-19mm-f-4-e-ed-tilt-shift-lens-review-30494 (https://www.ephotozine.com/article/nikon-pc-nikkor-19mm-f-4-e-ed-tilt-shift-lens-review-30494)
BTW Currently I'm looking into a Lens collar for stitching - a Burzynski lens collar will be donor,,,
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Lens Collar finished, Burzynski and RRS 'donor' parts - Works as intended :)
A separate split nylon ring tightened with slim screw around the nameplate part so the aluminium collar ring fits over the huge front element during assembly, two small flanges on the nylon ring keeps the collar in place even when rotating to portrait format.
Works for movements around Nodal point and Shift-Stitching,,,
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/569/32972769175_948a45ac7f_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/SeG4wg)Nikkor PC-E 19mm Lens Collar (https://flic.kr/p/SeG4wg) by Erik Gunst Lund (https://www.flickr.com/photos/erik_lund/), on Flickr
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2021/32931938546_169938aa53_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Sb5MZU)Nikkor PC-E 19mm Lens Collar (https://flic.kr/p/Sb5MZU) by Erik Gunst Lund (https://www.flickr.com/photos/erik_lund/), on Flickr
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Neat job, as always, Erik!
Do the locking screw parts and the Arca-Swiss platform adhere to the collar ring with epoxy? I've heard that some aircraft-grade epoxy is very strong.
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Erik does it again :D
I have secured a lens hood for modification - perhaps there will be a lens for it later ?
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Sure one will find it's way to you Bjørn :)
Akira there is a screw to lock it together, glue is for keeping it there without movement,,, Yes two component glue is very strong
Thanks :)
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Erik, thanks for the explanation!
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Thanks for your interest ;)
The RRS plate has besides the 1/4" screw a 4mm set-screw, also to prevent movement/rotation.
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Lens Collar finished, Burzynski and RRS 'donor' parts - Works as intended :)
A separate split nylon ring tightened with slim screw around the nameplate part so the aluminium collar ring fits over the huge front element during assembly, two small flanges on the nylon ring keeps the collar in place even when rotating to portrait format.
Erik, which Burzynski collar did you used/adapted?
I'll do one for myself :)
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It is the old version of the Burzynski lens collar for Micro-Nikkor AF-D 105mm 2.8 - It has the correct diameter, almost,,,
You need to trim off the flange on the inside of the nylon ring and I also trimmed down the length of the locking screw on the collar since the diameter of the 19mm is slightly smaller.
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It is the old version of the Burzynski lens collar for Micro-Nikkor AF-D 105mm 2.8 - It has the correct diameter, almost,,,
You need to trim off the flange on the inside of the nylon ring and I also trimmed down the length of the locking screw on the collar since the diameter of the 19mm is slightly smaller.
Thanks
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Just a follow up on performance, two images from a pre-shoot for the interior of a new school, here shot at f/8 the overall rendering is really good, the amount of sharpness over the entire frame makes it really useful for my purpose.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/4/3908/33034697442_d32ab70b1b_h.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/SkasD1)_EGL9631 (https://flic.kr/p/SkasD1) by Erik Gunst Lund (https://www.flickr.com/photos/erik_lund/), on Flickr
Here even at f/5.6 the image has a huge amount of depth of field/focus - when focus is correct!
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/4/3742/32808829280_e179abedf7_h.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/RZcPUm)_EGL9578 (https://flic.kr/p/RZcPUm) by Erik Gunst Lund (https://www.flickr.com/photos/erik_lund/), on Flickr
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I try to do my best convincing myself this lens is not necessary for my future shooting.
You are not helpful in that regard, Erik :D
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Hi Erik, got the Burzinski adapter.
How did you manage to put it in place? I'm afraid to open it too much and either distort or broke it... maybe I'm missing something but it only should go through the front and the glass element is huge... as you know.
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First remove/cut off with a Stanley knife, the small internal flange from the nylon ring, as this lens is straight, then you put the part furthest from the slit at the focus-ring and with a thumb placed firmly over each end of the slit you slide/sweep your thumbs over the front element/front. Same procedure for the aluminium ring.
If you break a nylon ring or bend aircraft grade aluminium you should exercise less,,, ;D Both are very strong materials but quite flexible.
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Great thanks.
I won't take lunch today so I might be less strong... ;D
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Just make sure your thumbs completely 'covers' both ends of the ring - then you are safe ;)
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Let you know later, when I'll be back home 8)
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Hum... doesn't fit.
The plastic ring is a tad larger, and doesn't allow the focus ring to move.
So, some serious work on lathe on perspective. Try to do it this or next weekend.
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The you obviously don't have the same old version I have shown in the image,,, is it the right diameter? The aluminum ring must be able to pass the front element,,,
It is the old version of the Burzynski lens collar for Micro-Nikkor AF-D 105mm 2.8 - It has the correct diameter, almost,,,
You need to trim off the flange on the inside of the nylon ring and I also trimmed down the length of the locking screw on the collar since the diameter of the 19mm is slightly smaller.
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Diameter is ok.
The aluminum ring fits perfect, but the plastic insert is a bit too large...
No worries, it will go some torture on lathe...
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Good, leave it as wide as possible, to keep it stiff. :)
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If all went well today is finished.
Tool is almost ready and lathe boring should be done.
Will post some photos (sorry have to be from my mobile)
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Good to hear! :)
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At the shop.
Did my best with my mobile (ok, with not a great camera), but... wonder how there are people satisfied with those cameras...
Never mind.
Work done!
Photo 1 - tool being made
Photo 2 - the tool attached collar, ready to be bored (centering the thing was interesting)
Photo 3 - the collar bored (already on lens)
Photo 4 - final result
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Very nice! Will be more stable than my slim version.
Nodal point seems to be at the front edge of the focus ring as far as my initial test have shown, please confirm if you have time at some point.
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Really neat and awesome, Pedro! Don't worry about the IQ of the smartphone so long as it does its job! ;D
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Thanks both.
But the original idea came from Erik, the master !
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Nicely done, Pedro! Will work as intended, but my suggestion to everyone else, with this 19 lens - use D800-810 naked bodies only, without any kinds of grips. Do not use D3-D4-D5 heavy bodies on tripod this way, thru the lens, cose the lens's camera mounting structure will be heavily overloading, as well as inner rotating mechanics. THX! LZ
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A good advice for the cautious,,,
I have not seen the inside of this lens, but it feels very solid when working with the movements so I have confidence it will not be damaged with normal use.
For sure all of the Nikon cameras like D810 can be used with battery grip hanging from the F-mount as well as all D1-D5 can, how else would you shoot tele-lenses for instance,,,
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I mean 19 only. The rest one may use as usual, for sure. THX! LZ
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Hmm...based on the teardown article at LensRentals.com, at least it may not be advisable to do the same thing with Samyang T/S lens...
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Yeah, be caution every time you want to use any optical/mechanical system over the limits it was designed to... THX! LZ
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Very nice! Will be more stable than my slim version.
Nodal point seems to be at the front edge of the focus ring as far as my initial test have shown, please confirm if you have time at some point.
Hi Erik, finally today did an extensive work with the 19mm TS.
Had time on hand to trial and error for the nodal point, discover mine a little bit on front of yours, namely 3mm on front of focus ring.
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Thank you! Noted :)
I have also learned the CRC and IF can for some optical designs change the Nodal' point as you focus the lens,,, For some lenses this change is huge,,, even for fixed focal length lenses,,,
Please start a new thread with images, if they are allowed for by client.
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eric - what did you use to cut the hood? I have to say it is genius. I figured it could be very possible since the way the cap worked and I was surprised nikon didn't offer one. I would think the way the cap works would also make a filter holder very possible.
I saw a filter holder from NISI on ebay and I wonder if it uses the same mount as the cap.
I actually had this lens for a few weeks but returned it. I was hoping the price would drop or some type of sale on it after the winter, but I also was a little put off by the flaring. Do you think the hood helps a little with the flare? I was getting flare with nights shots from light sources behind the camera.
I am getting the itch to buy this lens again and the hood was something I really wanted. Thanks!
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I was getting flare with nights shots from light sources behind the camera.
Did you cover up your eyepiece?
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Did you cover up your eyepiece?
Yes I had the eyepiece covered. I actually did some test shooting and the lens picks up light in odd ways. It could really use a proper hood.
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I cut it with a Dremel or Proxxon Diamond disc :)
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on a somewhat tangential vein... i tried the lens with a D800E RG830 conversion...
Nikon D800E ,PC 19mm f/4E ED
1/80s f/8.0 at 19.0mm iso400
(http://www.pbase.com/bobfriedman/image/165264537/original.jpg)
Cropped.
(http://www.pbase.com/bobfriedman/image/165264541/original.jpg)
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Beautiful shot, Bob. I guess the 19mm works well with IR.
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Wonderful image!
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I agree it works well. nicely done
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I don't mean to necro but I am curious. Really fallen in love with tilt shift lately. I was wondering how close it can focus and us tilt to still focus at infinity.
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Not sure I understand what precisely you are asking, is it depths of field?
It is a very sharp lens and it requires very precise focusing, preferably in live view to obtain critical sharpness,,,
It has very useful depths of focus at f/8-f/11 for shooting general architecture,,,
So I always use live view and focus on the subject that requires critical sharpness then the overall rendering appears nicely sharp,,,
Here focus is set quite close, as to render the bridge and foreground details crisp while retaining 'enough' sharpness of the building - The building is the main subject of the image however,,,
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4698/39969302832_057fd9153e_h.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/23TX8dU)_EGL1556 (https://flic.kr/p/23TX8dU) by Erik Gunst Lund (https://www.flickr.com/photos/erik_lund/), on Flickr
Samen technique here:
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4652/40000760281_3d57d57cfe_h.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/23WJmqH)_EGL1543 (https://flic.kr/p/23WJmqH) by Erik Gunst Lund (https://www.flickr.com/photos/erik_lund/), on Flickr
Both on D810 at f/10
BTW first image has a nice spot of flare ;D This lens is behaving extremely well for my use!!!
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Here is another depth of field sample
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4368/36430920296_7bfbcdea56_h.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/XvgZns)_EGL0987 (https://flic.kr/p/XvgZns) by Erik Gunst Lund (https://www.flickr.com/photos/erik_lund/), on Flickr
Shot on D810 at f/8
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Ah yes, that is what I was asking. Looks great.
But ti rephrase. If you have a close subject, but want to use tilt to get infinity in focus at the same time, whats the closest that close subject can be?
For example, on this 28 f/4 PC Tilt mod a subject can be in focus at about 1.5 feet or so but still get distant stands of tress in focus with tilt. Was curious if 19mm had an advantage over it as it would assumingly have one.
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With sufficient amount of movements (tilt and shift, in combinations), one can get the closest focus extremely near. and still keep infinity focus. However, that is moot unless the intermediate regions and layers in the ensuing photo are sharp *enough*. Thus judicious placement of camera, fine-tuned lens movements, and stopping down the lens are all essential steps to ensure maximum "depth of field".
This snapshot of a rocky intertidal on the southern coast of Norway was shot with my modified 28 PC-Nikkor. The front rim of the lens casing here is virtually flush to the nearest barnacles. I assume one could get a similar image with the new 19PCE.
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Very nice dramatic image!
I was also made curious: how close focuses this new 19mm? Since it is a lot wider, the perspective that can be achieved with it may not be that dramatic as with the 28mm...
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Perspective is just about how close the entrance pupil is to the subject ...
I see no reason why the 19PCE shouldn't be able to achieve something similar as I can get with my 28.
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According to official data, the new 19mm focuses to 25cm, while the 24mm PC-E to 21cm. Magnification given as ~1:6 vs. ~1:3. This does not seem too good for the 19mm... any close focus sample would be welcome with a subject which is recognizable.
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There is no limit to how close or how far, you can focus the 19mm,,,
Nice capture Bjørn!
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What do you mean?
There is no limit to how close or how far, you can focus the 19mm,,,
Nice capture Bjørn!
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What do you mean?
They are both telling you that by tilting the lens you can get a plane of focus which goes from 0 to infinity. Note that it is only a plane. This works great for flat surfaces like in a landscape, but not quite as nicely in enclosed spaces.
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I think I'm starting to get it. But what is the closest a plane can get visually? It must be dependent on tilt am I right?
They are both telling you that by tilting the lens you can get a plane of focus which goes from 0 to infinity. Note that it is only a plane. This works great for flat surfaces like in a landscape, but not quite as nicely in enclosed spaces.
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I think I'm starting to get it. But what is the closest a plane can get visually? It must be dependent on tilt am I right?
these articles may help
http://www.northlight-images.co.uk/using-lens-tilt-on-your-digital-slr/
http://www.northlight-images.co.uk/alternative-focus-technique-for-tilted-lens/
https://www.cambridgeincolour.com/tutorials/tilt-shift-lenses2.htm
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modified 28 PC-Nikkor.
Hi! thank you for your reply. Love these images. Your 28mm modified has been an inspiration to me for the past few months. I got a 3d printer and once it is dialed in I plan on making my own modifications to a 28mm PC. I've modeled some of it already. Just initial pieces. Stuck between bellows or actual mount like a Hartblei with added heliocoid... Bellows would be easier. Just print bellows with TPU. plenty of worm gear screw rod models to integrate for movements. but it's size would be large.
There is no limit to how close or how far, you can focus the 19mm,,,
oh yeah? unmodified it could get pretty close and in focus like the modded 28mm? My dream images are like Bjorns.
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First here is my Tilt and Shift version of the PC-Nikkor 28mm f/4
http://nikongear.net/revival/index.php/topic,2990.msg41279.html#msg41279
Do please note that this modification doesn't work with the f/3.5 since the mechanical design of the rear is completely different!
I played a little with close focus with 19mm when I got it and my impression was that it has no limitations regarding focus,,, everything seems to be possible was my impression,,,
The tiny 20mm f/3.5 close focus modification is another neat and simple modification,,, Far less expensive,,, if you want close and wide ;)
http://nikongear.net/revival/index.php/topic,5202.msg82269.html#msg82269
When I have time I can test it off course ;)
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Oh thank you.
I currently am the owner of your 28mm f/4 Tilt lens. It is great! Really love it. interesting that the rear of the f/3.5 is different.
19mm is so expensive, I know I'd love it but it is not justifiable currently.
(https://i.redd.it/1o32k10d2ozz.jpg)
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Ken Rockwell to the rescue... he has a fairly detailed review on the 19mm, provides a close-up shot. Not ideal, but better than nothing.
http://www.kenrockwell.com/nikon/19mm.htm
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Erik thx for the design
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You are welcome ;)
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I don't suppose Nikon sell HB-19's any longer?
I finally got this lens, and I've been very impressed by the mechanical and optical quality. The lens seems oblivious to light sources in the frame and behaves very well. The focal length is a bit on the short side for my taste.
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Does anyone else have landscapes shot with this lens?
I was going to buy the Z7 but due to this banding I changed my mind.
perhaps Ill finally get this lens.
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Eh, just bit the bullet and bought one. ::)
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That is the usual end result ... I did the same :D
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Diameter of collar should be 74.1mm ;)
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Thanks. I found cheap hood on Adorama. Will feet Haida 150 adapter soon.
Was planning to use 3d printer to adapt 15mm f/4 to Z7 I was going to buy. But I'll wait for the next generation.
Any idea the non paralax point form the rear mount?
and does anyone know how to tell a US serial number? 20XXXX is what I got.
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15/4
Was planning to use 3d printer to adapt 15mm f/4 to Z7 I was going to buy. But I'll wait for the next generation.
Not sure what you are talking about here,,, 15mm should be 19mm right?
The 19mm PC-E works quite well on the Z7 no adapter needed besides the FTZ so you would not need an seperate clamp like the one I have, just put a short plate on the FTZ with a distance piece to clear the movements ;)
Focus peaking works but is not better than looking at the rear screen of the D850 in Live view, a Zacuto finder on the D850 is better for me than Z7 focus peaking.
Nodal point is very close to where my collar is located, it moves as you change Focus, Tilt and Shift i believe ;)
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Could you post another link to your hood pattern? The drop box link no longer works and the flickr I cannot just download the image.
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Here is a link to the template for cutting a HB-19 lens hood to fit PC Nikkor 19mm ED 4E without vignetting, as far as I have tested ;)
https://www.dropbox.com/s/ne4b2okiw2intrk/HB19%20template%20for%20Nikkor%2019mm%20.pdf?dl=0 (https://www.dropbox.com/s/ne4b2okiw2intrk/HB19%20template%20for%20Nikkor%2019mm%20.pdf?dl=0)
It is a PDF file from a scan, print 100% (Not fit to A4)
Or download this JPG from Flickr also 100%
(https://c3.staticflickr.com/1/550/31398862930_25b330b569_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/PQBo2G)HB19-template-for-Nikkor-19mm- (https://flic.kr/p/PQBo2G) by Erik Gunst Lund (https://www.flickr.com/photos/erik_lund/), on Flickr
Should work now ;)
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This lens is what I've been looking for my whole life....
Though, the 28mm f/4 PC T/C Eric made gives it a close runner up. It is small and sharp AF. so Ill probably keep it too.
Will be selling my 28mm f/3.5 and 25mm f/2.8 PC lenses.
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Congratulations ;) It looks like you got the lens clamp on ;)
It's a remarkable lens indeed!
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Very nice thread this one about the 19. Have been using it recently for an industrial job - rented one - cant afford it but will keep an eye on the used market. Unfortunately the used market seems to be non existent for this lens. A shot from Berlin city center (tilted and shifted):
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Very powerful image ;)
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Used market is abysmal. Probably because you'd be insane to sell it.
That SAID
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Hi guys,
I see some of you made custom lens collars. I’d love to buy one from you as I couldn’t make one on my own. Any sellers? Thanks.
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Befitting the focal length of this lens, this thread somehow stopped on page 19. Does it have to?
I have the Samyang 24mm T/S which is a nice lens, but I have been looking out for this lens since it was released. Recently, I was lucky to 'inherit' Erik's copy. Today I finally got a chance to test it and take some architectural test shots. It behaves exactly as expected or better; sharp, contrasty, brilliant colors, very little distortion, very good rendering of highlights. Also extremely nice ergonomics, the knobs feel solid and precise, much more than on the Samyang. The custom tripod collar by Erik adds to the versatility by allowing lens movements with stationary entrance pupil. I strongly recommend to get one if you have this lens and haven't already.
I'm looking forward to using this lens on both natural and architectural subjects in the future.
What have you guys (those that own the lens) been up to? Does anyone have some nice photographs to share?
A few shots from tonight on the Z6. These are simple in-camera conversions, no fancy pp at all.
f/9, 12mm shift up
(http://www.suracephoto.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/03/Z6_3029_1.jpg)
f/9, 10mm shift up and maximum rear swing. Bokeh is nice as well!
(http://www.suracephoto.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/03/Z6_3035.jpg)
f/9, moderate shift up (don't remember the exact number)
(http://www.suracephoto.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/03/Z6_3037_1.jpg)
I already posted this image in another thread, but I'll put it here as an example on a 'natural' subject. I used a forward left swing to get the flowers in focus front-to-back, plus some fall, but I'll put it here again as a further example:
(http://www.suracephoto.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/03/D750_24952.jpg)
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Simone, you are getting some very good results with that lens!
I used to have an older 35mm PC Nikkor that pales in comparison to the 19 PC E
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Befitting the focal length of this lens, this thread somehow stopped on page 19. Does it have to?
I have the Samyang 24mm T/S which is a nice lens, but I have been looking out for this lens since it was released. Recently, I was lucky to 'inherit' Erik's copy. Today I finally got a chance to test it and take some architectural test shots. It behaves exactly as expected or better; sharp, contrasty, brilliant colors, very little distortion, very good rendering of highlights. Also extremely nice ergonomics, the knobs feel solid and precise, much more than on the Samyang. The custom tripod collar by Erik adds to the versatility by allowing lens movements with stationary entrance pupil. I strongly recommend to get one if you have this lens and haven't already.
I'm looking forward to using this lens on both natural and architectural subjects in the future.
What have you guys (those that own the lens) been up to? Does anyone have some nice photographs to share?
A few shots from tonight on the Z6. These are simple in-camera conversions, no fancy pp at all.
I already posted this image in another thread, but I'll put it here as an example on a 'natural' subject. I used a forward left swing to get the flowers in focus front-to-back, plus some fall, but I'll
#1 is my favorite. :)
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Simone great; so expensive > bucketlist :o
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Congratulations, Simone. It is a spectacular lens. Nice shots too.
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Thanks Bill, Fons and Peter for the comments!
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Nice to see you are happy with the lens and put it to good use!Thank you ;)
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Nice to see you are happy with the lens and put it to good use!Thank you ;)
Thanks, yes I'm very happy!
I noticed that there is a little play in the tilt dovetails. When mounting the lens with the tripod collar and having the tilt axis horizontally there is a small gap, about 0.5mm. I wonder whether this is normal or perhaps something has to be tightened. I can see the gap leading to a little bit of vertical tilt when it is not desired.
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The lens is not made for use with a lens collar, so that is most likely why there can be an unforeseen looseness due to gravity from the camera.
Preferably use a small light camera like D850 without grip.
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Thanks, this makes sense. I will make sure to not put excessive weight and I will also avoid moving the rig by the camera.
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Using the 19 since february 2017. This time Munich city, again, the maximilianstreet with Hotel Vier Jahreszeiten. Arranged last sunday, hand held, d850+pc-19 f,11 1/60 iso 64. byebye richard
(http://malus.exotica.org.uk/~zeg/images/mai/Muemaxistr2020c85.jpg)
full size here please.
http://malus.exotica.org.uk/~zeg/images/mai/Muemaxistr2020c99.jpg (http://malus.exotica.org.uk/~zeg/images/mai/Muemaxistr2020c99.jpg)
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With such a car you are probably allowed to park everywhere?
Hotel looks in same class as Bayerischer Hof?
I have always wanted to stay there for a couple of nights :-)
But at the end I would rather have a new lens.....
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With such a car you are probably allowed to park everywhere?
Hotel looks in same class as Bayerischer Hof?
I have always wanted to stay there for a couple of nights :-)
But at the end I would rather have a new lens.....
Meper: ah right. the car is labeled with the hotel logo. bye bye,richard
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Just had only my 19mm and 85mm PC lenses in Arizona this week. Both quite useful for showing the correct perspective deapth and height of cliffs and natural formations. Also quite useful for getting everything in focus to isolate a single plant or Rock yet keep it all in focus and unblurred even though it has been abnormally windy
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Just had only my 19mm and 85mm PC lenses in Arizona this week. Both quite useful for showing the correct perspective deapth and height of cliffs and natural formations. Also quite useful for getting everything in focus to isolate a single plant or Rock yet keep it all in focus and unblurred even though it has been abnormally windy
It would be very interesting to see some samples of your work!
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Some samples from Paul Klee Zentrum in Bern this evening. Both are shifted up and shot on the Z6 in the native 16:9 mode:
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Some samples from Paul Klee Zentrum in Bern this evening. Both are shifted up and shot on the Z6 in the native 16:9 mode:
Looks like the light control for the building is quite elaborate.
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Very nicely captured!, Also an amazing building!
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wonder if someone tested the 19 with the TSE FRAME: https://rogeti.myshopify.com/products/tse-frame (https://rogeti.myshopify.com/products/tse-frame) from ROGETI. This aluminum frame was designed for the Canon TS-E 17mm but it should fit to the 19mm from Nikon. Seems as if nobody did it so far - at least there is nothing in the net.
I also wonder why Nikon didnt provide a rotating tripod collar design for this lens. It would totally make sense and would make it much easier to harvest the full potential of the lens (parallax free compositon of panos & diagonal shifting). Some shots from some architecture training shots with the 19 ... - well one is a 14-24 pano :)
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I didn't think the 19 T/S was that tolerant to direct sun... (even with the flare).
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I didn't think the 19 T/S was that tolerant to direct sun... (even with the flare).
Well the last shot is from the 14-24 (F-mount version). The first and the second shot however are from the 19. It handles against the sun better than my 14-24 imo but I havnt tested all sun positions in the frame.
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wonder if someone tested the 19 with the TSE FRAME: https://rogeti.myshopify.com/products/tse-frame (https://rogeti.myshopify.com/products/tse-frame) from ROGETI. This aluminum frame was designed for the Canon TS-E 17mm but it should fit to the 19mm from Nikon. Seems as if nobody did it so far - at least there is nothing in the net.
Thanks for the link. But that the Frame would also fit the Nikkor 19mm lens is currenty a guess and not yet confirmed, right?
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Thanks for the link. But that the Frame would also fit the Nikkor 19mm lens is currenty a guess and not yet confirmed, right?
yes! pure guess from the dimension and the support elements of the TSE FRAME. There is likely some adaption needed. Someone mentioned that it fits also to the Nikon here: https://www.dpreview.com/forums/post/65386448 (https://www.dpreview.com/forums/post/65386448), but that is the only source I can find. But looking closely at the design of the TSE FRAME its obvious that it was very precisely created for the Canon and its nobs.
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I have to correct my statement. The DPREVIEW comment was linking a collar from iShoot and NOT the TSE FRAME!
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Hi Erik Lund,
As a first time owner of a PC NIKKOR 19mm f/4E ED, I was delighted to see the good idea you posted in late 2016 about using a modified LC-K101 with this lens. I have located an LC-K101 and will be trimming it shortly so I may use it with my PC 19mm.
I noticed it falls off the lens when bumped slightly. And I see you mentioned, “It will just need a tiny trimming to lock at the right point since the original lens cap LC-K101 has a small locking hatch.” I’m assuming the hood falls off easily because I have not done the tiny trimming yet and that must be why it does not rotate on very much.
Can you kindly elaborate a little about how you did this trimming? Was it to both sides, or just one side? Does it correspond to where the latch is on the lens cover?
Thank you much.
Tom
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It's on both sides of the hood, so the two small notches in the lens hood will fit the below ridge marked in blue
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Thanks, Erik. I’ll review.