NikonGear'23
Gear Talk => Camera Talk => Topic started by: Birna Rørslett on July 31, 2021, 10:31:57
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As implied by the title, this thread is about our new darling, the Z fc.
It is petite and very cute even in its default 'panda' livery. I probably will aim to get the pink skin modification as soon as it becomes available.
Let any one owning, using, or contemplating the Z fc, contribute to this dedicated thread.
Meanwhile, a quick view of the Z fc with Zoom-Nikkor 43-86mm f/3.5, the kit lens of days long gone. My 43-86 is CPU-modified and works flawlessly on the Z fc.
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All six colours for the Zfc are now available in Melbourne's shops - including the pink one, so your wait should not be too long. There is a curious grainy feel to the metal work, which seems more coarse than that of the older FM/FE cameras of old.
Is your FTZ adapter modified - I am curious about the colour coding spots on it?
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The FTZ is not modified -- the colour dots simply indicate which cameras should be used with it. (I have an FTZ specifically altered for the use with a converted Z6).
The surface finish is silky smooth to behold and to touch, but in direct comparison to the older cameras (I only have an FE2 remaining), it has a tiny bit of grain to it.
If I understand correctly, modifying the skin requires a visit to the Nikon repair facility.
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Birna, how is the experience of manual focus of older lenses with the Z fc?
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Not bad. Putting the zoom magnifier on the front function button, where your finger almost magically land, will ease focusing to a large extent.
As always with the mirrorless systems, the hardest task is focusing a very wide lens having only stop-down aperture in low light conditions. My Laowa 11mm f/4.5 is a prime example. This is a situation for which an optical viewfinder and a split-image groundglass reign supreme.
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I haven't weakened to the point where I am making room in the bag for the camera, but I''ve made a mental note to thank myself for not selling the almost as new 43-86 that has now found a home again in the bag. I will purchase the dumb FTZ adaptor as soon as possible, to keep the hounds on the trail. Thank you, Birna.
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Aside from being well made with a beautiful finish, the last version of the 43-86mm Zoom-Nikkor is a pleasant surprise in a number of occasions. Using a DX camera prevents the weaker corners from making to much of a negative impact to the overall outcome. Contrast is lower than shown by a modern lens, however this hardly detracts when one is aware of the behaviour.
This was the early morning view from my porch with the 43-86 set to 86mm and f/5.6. Run straight through NX Studio 1.01 with Picture Control Neutral.
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The main lens on the Zfc for now seems, not surprisingly, to be the 3.5cm f/1.8 W-Nikkor. It matches the Zfc beautifully. While it is not very rare, sometimes finding a sample in acceptable quality can be time-consuming. My guess is that the price of this Nikkor will climb when people discover how well it suits the Zfc.
(https://nikongear.net/revival/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=10068.0;attach=50348;image)
Appearing very late in the Nikon rangefinder era at the end of the '50s, it was a very sophisticated design for its time. Except for the inevitable lower image contrast, it actually compares quite favourably against the 35mm f/1.8 Nikkor S-Line which is >60 years younger (!!), if one looks at the centre of the frame at least. However, with the Zfc, that part is what you got anyway.
A snapshot of today to show the excellent quality of the 3.5cm f/1.8. It also has very low geometric distortion compared to many more modern optics.
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Ah, sweet temptation! The lens, that is.
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Seems the price level on the 3.5cm f/1.8 has climbed quite a lot in the years since I got my near-mint sample back in the early 00's :) Something like 10 times?
Perhaps one of the modern Chinese designs, also without aperture automation but with native Z mount, might be a better direction to follow for a small, unobtrusive lens on the Zfc.
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Thank you Birna. It looks beautiful!
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Birna:
Have you tried a f/1.8 AIS Nikkor pancake lens on the Zfc? Esp. the Japanese version with serial numbers starting with 4?
Thanks
Randy
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I have the "long-nose" version of the 50mm f/1.8 Nikkor and the much flatter 50mm f/1.8 Nikon SE. Both are OK, but will have to yield to the 5cm f/1.1 Nikkor RF when the latter arrives in the not too distant future.
The tiny and so-easy-to-lose 45mm f/2.8 Ai-P Nikkor operates better on the Zfc than on the F-mount DSLRs because its controls become easier accessible. Still not the simplest lens to give a work out if your fingers aren't co-operative :( A plus point is that the 45mm gives the 'green square' in the finder when camera thinks focus is correct.
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Thanks Birna:
I had checked the lens I mentioned on your review site, and thought that the early AIS version sounded like a fine lens. Perhaps I misunderstood that to be the Japanese version pancake, not the long nose you just mentioned.
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I can image the tiny and chipped Voigtländer 20mm f3.5 being a nice match with this Z fc. I once owned this lens and apart from moustache distortion it performed well on APS-C. Birna, do you own this lens?
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Only the Nikkor 20/3.5. Plus 21/4 Voigtländer for RF(S).
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Have you tried a f/1.8 AIS Nikkor pancake lens on the Zfc? Esp. the Japanese version with serial numbers starting with 4?
The Japanese pancake AIS 50/1.8 has serial numbers from 2050001 - 2268017
The AIS version with serial numbers starting with 4 was produced after the series-E and Japan versions were discontinued, and produced for world-wide distribution. Although it is labelled as AIS it actually has more in common with the series-E versions, having plastic parts and close focus limit of only 0.6m. The Japan version has a metal barrel focusing down to 0.45m. All have the same optical design, although the AIS versions have better coatings than the series-E models.
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Thanks Roland:
I had seen your list, but screwed up the serial number sequence in my question to Birna.
I have the later US version currently, but have a Japanese version on the way to me.
Thanks
Randy
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I was able to fiddle with the Z fc and 16-50 mm lens in a store today. I think the camera is wonderfully light and would make a great travel and walkabout camera. However, I find some of the controls not as easy to use as I expected. The exposure compensation dial is quite small and requires some effort to turn. Same with the ISO dial though I guess it is expected. The shutter speed dial, in contrast, moves with a very light touch. I am not entirely convinced by the implementation of the two-axis screen; the one-axis screen can be tilted without moving the screen to the side, but this one has to be moved to the left side to turn along the horizontal axis. I have seen some Fuji camera with LCD able to turn in two axis without having to be moved from behind the camera.
The viewfinder looks very nice.
It takes some getting used to having no grip. I guess one can get used to it, but I liked the F3HP's small grip as well as the Df's.
The camera did not leave the shop with me, at least not today, but I did get a favourable impression of it.
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The camera did not leave the shop with me, at least not today, but I did get a favourable impression of it.
The most famous snub line "... is tolerable, I suppose, but not handsome enough to tempt me ..." soon proved to be erroneous. My feeling in the near future you will be in a similar situation :)
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Well Randy, nobody has yet answered your question, and I await with bated breath, as I have the export version of that lens, and it is no different functionally or physically to the apparently more desirable Japanese home market version. On occasion I have used it on my Df, and noticed some initial awkwardness in getting fingers to operate the aperture ring. The F/Z adaptor may make it easier to locate the ring; I don't know, as I've not yet seen/operated this combination of camera, adaptor and lens, obviously. Just as obviously, it appears to me that this combination would be perfect. In addition to bathed breath, I await with fingers crossed!(Birna take note, please, pretty pink please!?)
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My young Afghan friend Breshna, just turned 7, fell immediately for the Z fc and wouldn't let me get near the camera for an hour ...
She had very little problems using the Z fc with the 35/1.8 Z lens after receiving a few basic instructions. Just like me, she uses her left eye for viewing and focusing.
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Finally, by plying her with soft drinks, she surrendered the camera to me, and started making faces with napkins instead. Not all experiments were successful :)
Zfc, 35mm f/1.8 Nikkor S-Line Z.
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The 1 hour shooting and the napking faces, all seems like a success to me :)
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I've been otherwise engaged for some time now, paying the much needed attention to cololecting specimens for my aquatic plant project. When I returned from a trip to Western Norway today, the much-awaited Nikkor 5cm f/1.1 rangefinder lens had just arrived. What a treat for my Z fc !!
One of the first images with the 5cm/1.1. I added the 11mm Meike extension ring as the lens by itself does not focus closer than 0.9m.
(https://nikongear.net/revival/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=10112.0;attach=50580;image)
I'll make a picture of the camera with the new lens later. Now, unpacking and caring for my sampes is required.
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As promised, although nobody asked, here is the 5cm f/1.1 on my Z fc.
It's 1.1 all the way!!
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Is the Zfc an improvement over the Z50?
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So far I'd say yes. It handles better -- for me at least. And the looks are gorgeous of course. I sold off the Z50 as it was never my intention to get that model, it was the means of getting an extra and cheap FTZ as my ealer sold it bundled with FTZ for a very favourable price.
In common with Z50, there is no direct method for inputting GPS information than using Snapbridge on a phone. Not my favourite method to say the least, and spatial accuracy is way below what a bespoke GPS device can provide. However, for the casual work load I'm expecting my Z fc to cope with, this would suffice. Just remember to recharge your phone more frequently, as Snapbridge adversely impacts battery capacity.
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I've been otherwise engaged for some time now, paying the much needed attention to cololecting specimens for my aquatic plant project. When I returned from a trip to Western Norway today, the much-awaited Nikkor 5cm f/1.1 rangefinder lens had just arrived. What a treat for my Z fc !!
One of the first images with the 5cm/1.1. I added the 11mm Meike extension ring as the lens by itself does not focus closer than 0.9m.
I'll make a picture of the camera with the new lens later. Now, unpacking and caring for my sampes is required.
Wonderfully dreamy image...
Frankly, I'm not big fan of retro-design for the digital camera, but Z fc matches very well with the vintage lenses, especially S-mount Nikkors.
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-- Frankly, I'm not big fan of retro-design for the digital camera, but Z fc matches very well with the vintage lenses, especially S-mount Nikkors.
That in a nutshell is why I immediately ordered the Z fc.
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As promised, although nobody asked, here is the 5cm f/1.1 on my Z fc.
It's 1.1 all the way!!
I wished it :) It not only looks gorgeous, also delivers. It is said to be and feel very light weight?
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what happened to the 5/1.1? it looks like balsam separation :o :o :o
waiting for my sample body...looks like its not coming soon ::)
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The camera body feels quite light, yes. It could be heavier, without any complaints from my side. The old rangefinders are really heavy as they are all metal and brass a substantial fraction of it as well.
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Rick, the lens is clean as a whistle. Considering its age (60+ years) it is in remarkably good condition. Only signs of it being used are faint cleaning marks on the front element, which is probably quite soft, and some brassing on the inner rear barrel. I might end up using a filter (gasp) on the lens just to cut down on the required front cleaning.
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be careful when turning the aperture ring, thats how many of them get broken iris blades :o :o :o
kiitos will happily change them all for $220.00 ::)
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Having the aperture ring or less locked at f/1.1 probably will be safe, then?
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Just how heavy is it- just the body? I wondered, still wonder, but Birna's statement that the old rangefinders were really heavy, in comparison, stuck with me, and something made me want to find out just how heavy my Bessa R2 and its Summicron f2 50 mm collapsible M mount lens are. Before I realized it, almost, I had the body and lens on the precision kitchen scale, new 9 V battery fitted, and got the following results:
Bessa R2 body, 481 grams, no body cap
50mm f2 Summicron lens, 243grams,. including front lens cap but naked M mount.
It will be interesting to compare the Bessa and the new retro styled Nikon.
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Having the aperture ring more or less locked at f/1.1 probably will be safe, then?
i suppose so. :o :o :o
that is a good lens compared to what the 50/0.95 which is rubbish wide-open so it should be nice. ::)
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Just how heavy is it- just the body? I wondered, still wonder, but Birna's statement that the old rangefinders were really heavy, in comparison, stuck with me, and something made me want to find out just how heavy my Bessa R2 and its Summicron f2 50 mm collapsible M mount lens are. Before I realized it, almost, I had the body and lens on the precision kitchen scale, new 9 V battery fitted, and got the following results:
Bessa R2 body, 481 grams, no body cap
50mm f2 Summicron lens, 243grams,. including front lens cap but naked M mount.
It will be interesting to compare the Bessa and the new retro styled Nikon.
Z fc body alone, around 455 g
The 5cm f/1.1 Nikkor-N + RF(S)-Z adapter 496 g
My black Nikon S3 rangefinder, no caps 620 g
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Congratulations Birna, that is a very nice setup! impeccable condition considering the age of the lens!
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The Z fc is at ease with all my old Nikkors. Here it is hooked up to the 35cm f/4.5 Nikkor-T (~ 1960) through first the N-F tube which allowed the long rangefinder lenses to bypass the additional reflex housing of the rangefinders, then to the FTZ. As I had the audacity to add a CPU to the N-F, I now can enjoy the full potential of this imposing vintage optic.
Nikon made around 650 of these long Nikkors, a substantial number of which were rebuilt to be used on cine cameras for recording nuclear tests in the US desert. I have three of the 35cm Nikkor-T lenses, two from the rebuilt version, and the last being complete with the original focusing section shown here. It being a triplet, one cannot expect wonders in terms of optical brilliance, but results are pleasing enough. Considering this lens is 60+ years old it is in surprisingly good shape and works quite flawlessly with all the strange features seen in its "preset" operation.
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They really compliment each other well, impressive vintage setup
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Would it be a suitable body to be taken on long bike rides? Combined with some small capable auto focus lens?
Weight is of concern as of hills and mountains, and there is a tendency to temporarily loose some fine motoric capabilities over long hours in the saddle,- thus the af.
Even though the majority here seems to favour traditional lenses fitted to it.
Is it robust enougth to take rattling and bumps?
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The 35/1.8 Nikkor Z and the Z fc should be about perfect. Or, to get things even smaller, use the new 16-50 DX Z.
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i wonder how much the front casting could tolerate...i assume not as tough as a Z6 but only time will tell :o :o :o
now you need to modify an MD-12 for it ::)
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Another interview with Nikon. they say the younger smartphone generation is Nikon's principal target
https://www.techradar.com/news/exclusive-how-nikon-designed-the-nikon-zfc-and-why-it-thinks-the-future-is-retro
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I feel empowered and rejuvenated. Thanks to the Mothership :)
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:o ;D ;D ;D 8)
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Such great comments on the Z FC; I can hardly wait for Nikon to come up with a full frame Z FC !!!!
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And one of the keys to achieving this on a retro-inspired camera is the dials, which recreate a tactile shooting experience that's a welcome contrast to the soulless screen-prodding of smartphones. --Tech Radar
Yesterday I took some record photos with my smart phone. That's all it's good for. The worst thing bar none about taking photos with a smart phone is the very long shutter lag. With my phone you tap the screen and the LED "flash light" turns on to aid in focus, then the phone makes some noises and finally it takes the photo. There is no way to take a photograph of a person and expect to record a peak expression. There is no way to record peak action. My Kodak Instamatic 100 and various Kodak Brownie cameras were more responsive.
This is a camera be it ever so humble. My smart phone is not.
Dave
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I tried out the Zfc just briefly and found the lack of a grip to be a no go. The Df at least has a small grip and since its overall body it bigger, i got used to it. I guess if I was to get a DX Z i would look to the Z50. I really lke the retro dials though!
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Yesterday I took some record photos with my smart phone. That's all it's good for. The worst thing bar none about taking photos with a smart phone is the very long shutter lag. With my phone you tap the screen and the LED "flash light" turns on to aid in focus, then the phone makes some noises and finally it takes the photo. There is no way to take a photograph of a person and expect to record a peak expression. There is no way to record peak action. My Kodak Instamatic 100 and various Kodak Brownie cameras were more responsive.
This is a camera be it ever so humble. My smart phone is not.
Dave
Is it an iPhone?
I have a Samsung and the photos are instant!
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Is it an iPhone?
No it's a Moto G(7). >:(
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Yesterday I took some record photos with my smart phone. That's all it's good for. The worst thing bar none about taking photos with a smart phone is the very long shutter lag. With my phone you tap the screen and the LED "flash light" turns on to aid in focus, then the phone makes some noises and finally it takes the photo. There is no way to take a photograph of a person and expect to record a peak expression. There is no way to record peak action. My Kodak Instamatic 100 and various Kodak Brownie cameras were more responsive.
This is a camera be it ever so humble. My smart phone is not.
Dave
You might have the wrong smart phone. Newer models have almost no lag, and have live mode which is essentially a short clip from which you can select the image in which your subject doesn’t happen to have their eyes closed. I get great images from my phone. It’s not a substitute for a dslr, but it is better than any instamatic.
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I haven't see the smart phone that has the low shutter lag of an Instamatic 100 but that doesn't mean such as smart phone isn't out in the wild. What kind of price? Then there is the non-camera interface of a smart phone. It's not like a real camera. Even the shutter sound is fake.
The Nikon Z fc has a real camera interface. This is a thread about the Z fc, yes?
Dave
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I tried out the Zfc just briefly and found the lack of a grip to be a no go. The Df at least has a small grip and since its overall body it bigger, i got used to it. I guess if I was to get a DX Z i would look to the Z50. I really lke the retro dials though!
The Z50 has a nice grip and built-in flash also which can be nice in some occasions.
The Z50 was almost ignored when it was released but I am happy with my. I can recommend the kit with 16-50 which has a good performance and adds VR.
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Is a Z50 II coming soon, maybe?
Dave
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This is a thread about the Z fc, yes?
Dave
Lol - you raised the subject of phones ::)
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Lol - you raised the subject of phones ::)
Actually the Techradar.com Nikon interview linked by chambeshi brought up the smart phone. Nikon said the Z fc was designed to appeal to younger smart phone users.
Dave
I'm going to recommend a Nikon Z fc to a nephew with a 6 month old baby. A child's life is to short and precious to waste taking photos with smart phone.
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Nikon said the Z fc was designed to appeal to younger smart phone users.
I am not sure if they know who they created the camera for. For me, the camera would get more attention from old school photographers who have great sentiments for the old analogue photography time.
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You might have the wrong smart phone. Newer models have almost no lag, and have live mode which is essentially a short clip from which you can select the image in which your subject doesn’t happen to have their eyes closed. I get great images from my phone. It’s not a substitute for a dslr, but it is better than any instamatic.
A smart phone does not offer an eye level viewfinder like a Kodak Instamatic 100 nor a tilting LCD monitor for waist level shots like using a waist the waist level viewfinder of a Kodak Brownie Hawkeye. I love the way people ignore you when using a waist level view finder. A 60ms or less shutter release would help but a smart phone requires the "night of the living dead" method of holding the phone. I reject the smart phone as a useful tool for taking candid photos of people.
A short clip? How many frames per second? Is it fast enough to record the decisive moment among a few hundred frames by chance? A competent photographer can record the decisive moment in one frame.
Dave
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I am not sure if they know who they created the camera for. For me, the camera would get more attention from old school photographers who have great sentiments for the old analogue photography time.
I think you are right. One thing that is desperately needed for the Nikon Z fc is small, light or moderately light DX lenses. A 35/1.8 or 50/1.8 Z mount FX lens does not fit the bill. This group has many who use vintage lenses on mirrorless cameras so such DX lenses are not that important. Even the Z mount FX lenses are too damned big and an f/2.8 or worse an f/3.5-6.3 lens does not cut it for me. True Z mount DX lenses with f/2.0 ~ f/1.4 that are designed to be small and light are needed. Does anyone remember the AF 50/1.8 plastic Nikkor? It was small, light and cheep. I have one that binds just enough to make manual focus pretty much impossible but it does AF fine and it produces excellent images. If I owned a Nikon Z fc I would not enjoy an AF-S 50/1.8 Nikkor on an FTZ adapter. For *my* purposes Nikon doesn't make useful DX lenses for the Z fc. I guess there is no market for them.
Dave
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I think you are right. One thing that is desperately needed for the Nikon Z fc is small, light or moderately light DX lenses. A 35/1.8 or 50/1.8 Z mount FX lens does not fit the bill. This group has many who use vintage lenses on mirrorless cameras so such DX lenses are not that important. Even the Z mount FX lenses are too damned big and an f/2.8 or worse an f/3.5-6.3 lens does not cut it for me. True Z mount DX lenses with f/2.0 ~ f/1.4 that are designed to be small and light are needed. Does anyone remember the AF 50/1.8 plastic Nikkor? It was small, light and cheep. I have one that binds just enough to make manual focus pretty much impossible but it does AF fine and it produces excellent images. If I owned a Nikon Z fc I would not enjoy an AF-S 50/1.8 Nikkor on an FTZ adapter. For *my* purposes Nikon doesn't make useful DX lenses for the Z fc. I guess there is no market for them.
Dave
Actually Viltrox just came out with AF 23,33,56 mm lenses all 1.4 and they are quite small walk around lenses for the fc Nikon body. Check them out on Nikon Rumours. More and more 3rd party lenses are coming out for this camera because they can see it will be popular with even young people thinking they’re using the same camera their dad used to when they were little. Regards Gerry
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Here’s a link to lenses for under $100 or 1.4 and 1.2 lenses for the Nikon FC
https://nikonrumors.com/2021/08/13/announced-three-new-silver-ttartisan-aps-c-lenses-for-nikon-z-mount-all-under-100-a-perfect-match-for-the-nikon-z-fc.aspx/
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I just ordered the Viltrox 23mm f/1.4 as it apparently has the electronics so can communicate with the camera.
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Here’s a link to lenses for under $100 or 1.4 and 1.2 lenses for the Nikon FC
Interesting but not AF so not particularly useable for me.
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They call them APS-C autofocus lenses......so I guess they should autofocus?
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They call them APS-C autofocus lenses......so I guess they should autofocus?
The linked page for the TTartisan APS-C lenses says they are manual focus lenses. Maybe we are talking about different lenses?
Dave
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I just ordered the Viltrox 23mm f/1.4 as it apparently has the electronics so can communicate with the camera.
does it? id like to see the rear :o :o :o good if they do, the chip could be used for something else ::)
they also come in different colors to match the Zfc but the colors actually do not match very well, making them look uglier
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Well, Birna, taking a step backwards from the sophistication of these new lenses, I can report that I hope for my promised efforts to embrace the new camera are over, as my adaptor arrived today. It is a NIK- NIK Z K & F Concept adaptor for full frame Nikons, namely Z6 and Z7. Have I assumed correctly that it will do the job on the new Nikon, or do I have it all wrong, and will have to buy another dumb adaptor and have to wait for the full framed version, in order to use it? It looks like one of the adaptors featured in recent posts in this forum.
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does it? id like to see the rear :o :o :o good if they do, the chip could be used for something else ::)
they also come in different colors to match the Zfc but the colors actually do not match very well, making them look uglier
It looks promlsing, exif info/rear electronics
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That is the lens I have purchased. I was just notified the lens is on its way, but of course making it through Norwegian Customs can be a tall challenge.
Kenneth, the K & F adapters are well made and should work to satisfaction. I have the adapters for Nikon RF(S) and M42 mount.
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KF is the better chi-com brand. the best ones in my experience are made in Taiwan (Hawk's) and Japan. :o :o :o
they're not cheap of course but they're worth it.
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There was a video on the Z50 when it came out that suggested Nikon made a mistake by using the Z mounts as is on the DX mirrorless… that the opening dwarfs the size of the sensor and the sensor only uses some percentage (60?) of the light. (I didn’t totally understand that point).
That putting Z full frame lenses on a DX rarely makes sense.
Obviously Nikon gets manufacturing economies.
Tying this back to the Zfc, I wish the mount was smaller allowing for high quality, fast lenses in a small package, closer to Fuji.
Is there any chance of a shorter FTZ adapter (third party) or is that plain physics in adapting the mount sizes?
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Thank you Birna and Richard.
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The Z fc sharing the Z mount with its bigger FX siblings makes a lot of sense to me and likely to Nikon as well :)
Adapting F-lenses, native or third-party alike, will always require the 46.5mm register distance required of the F-mount itself. If a hypothetical lens with F bayonet is made for a "short FTZ", then that lens could not be used on any F camera SLR/DSLR, so why not make it for Z mount directly?
LAOWA makes many small and compact lenses which natively fit the Z mount. I use the 11mm f/4.5 interchangeably on the Z fc and the Z5/Z6. There is no CPU in the LAOWAs, but that they share with my rangefinder lenses.
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not only that but you will not get stuck when you "upgrade" to FX :o :o :o assuming that you bought the FX lenses instead of the DX ones ::)
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not only that but you will not get stuck when you "upgrade" to FX :o :o :o assuming that you bought the FX lenses instead of the DX ones ::)
There is one and only one DX lens I would like to have bought: the AF-S DX NIKKOR 16-85mm f/3.5-5.6G ED VR. The reason is when I owned only a Nikon D300s I knew if I could ever afford it my next camera would be an FX Nikon so I didn't by DX lenses. A friend owns the 16-85/3.5-5.6 DX and I've used it on her D300.
Dave
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Eeeewwww … :-\ :-\ :-\
Colored lenses seem a bit grotesque.
https://nikonrumors.com/2021/08/21/weekly-nikon-news-flash-638.aspx/
I wonder how dirt and finger grease will look on the colored cameras and lenses after a while. At least black rubber and leatherette ages in a ‘mature’ way.
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My gripe is that the colours seem odd. That "pink" lens for example is miles off being pink. I noticed coloured Nikon CX lenses didn't always match the camera, but the example shown here is more deviant.
I have a pink Nikon J2 and its lenses stand use fairly well. OK, to be frank, the exterior build quality suffices, but for the kit zoom lenses, the interior parts fail as inferior material is used. I do hope Nikon learned its lessons there.
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Meanwhile, I continue to enjoy the old rangefinder Nikkors on my Z fc. This is the 3.5cm f/1.8 W-Nikkor. Subject is the terranean stolon of Common Reed Phragmites australis, which sometimes ventures into unsuitable habitats (!).
(https://nikongear.net/revival/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=10112.0;attach=50673;image)
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I am not sure if they know who they created the camera for. For me, the camera would get more attention from old school photographers who have great sentiments for the old analogue photography time.
Apparently the Df was very popular among young people in Japan. Because of the price, success was limited. I think this could be the reason they went with a DX version for the first Z mount "fusion" camera, to keep the price at a more manageable level for young adults.
I think it can be good for learning the basics to have concrete dials to work with.
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I guess the dials are not used very much?
If Aperture priority is used and RAW-mode is used then the modern exposure calculation is so accurate that -+ correction is not needed very often?
Different AF-modes must be selected in the menus anyway?
ISO and -+correction is very easy to change on "native" Z-bodies.
So what is the nice thing about the "vintage" dials on Z fc?
Z fc is more about "look" than "human interface" compared to the native Z-bodies?
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I for one use the dials on the Z fc all the time. other users might set the camera to A mode and just blast away. The camera allows the user to indulge hers or his whims and preferences. The tactile feel of the operation is part of the ecosystem.
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if they really wanted to "commemorate" the Zfc launch they should have at least made these look like Ai-S Nikkors to some extent, maybe even add a $15.00 premium to justify it :o :o :o it's not hard, they would have sold more lenses and people would have bought more Zfc (which is still selling very good here)
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When I bought my AF-S 50/1.8G I wanted the SE version. I wasn't willing to pay a $60.00 premium for it. I might have paid a $10.00 premium but not more.
I guess if people are willing to pay a premium for special edition lenses then Nikon should sell them.
Dave
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The Z50 has a nice grip and built-in flash also which can be nice in some occasions.
The Z50 was almost ignored when it was released but I am happy with my. I can recommend the kit with 16-50 which has a good performance and adds VR.
I totally agree the deep grip pairs very well with the 200-500 and the small flash is an added value
I would think the new camera only if there is big difference in AF speed, is it??
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just buy the grip for the Zfc :o :o :o
id personally modify an MD12 if ever i bought a Zfc which i doubt since i already have TOO MANY cameras ::)
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But will the Nikon grip be available outside of Japan?
The very nice Z body grip (not the battery grip) is only available in Japan.
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yahoo auctions :o :o :o the nest of thieves and rats
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But will the Nikon grip be available outside of Japan?
Thr Nikon Z fc grip is available in Finland (or at least marketed by camera stores; I don't know if they have arrived yet) so it seems likely that it would be available worldwide.
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just buy the grip for the Zfc :o :o :o
id personally modify an MD12 if ever i bought a Zfc which i doubt since i already have TOO MANY cameras ::)
I could make myself a very nice wooden grip with many exotic woods I have in my workshop ;)
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Like Fuji or Tamron (Kirk, RRS, Benro, Gitzo...) Nikon could (should !) make Arca-Swiss compatible grips !
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That could look nice - as do some of the yester year handles for flash guns and third party accessories that I have seen.
I could make myself a very nice wooden grip with many exotic woods I have in my workshop ;)
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Like Fuji or Tamron (Kirk, RRS, Benro, Gitzo...) Nikon could (should !) make Arca-Swiss compatible grips !
I the one I mentioned does have an arca plate. It's a lovely grip :-)
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I must be stupid, how to activate back button (ael button) for af-on on the zfc? I got it through custom menu!
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I must be stupid, how to activate back button (ael button) for af-on on the zfc? I got it through custom menu!
On my z50 I go to custom setting menu, f controls, f2 custom controls -Shooting and then give to AE lock the AF-ON function
I hope something similar for zFc :)
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Try page 367 in the Nikon Z fc manual. As I read it the AE-L/AF-L button can be reassigned to perform AF-ON.
Dave
I'm having a bit of trouble with the icons all looking like black squares in the PDF I have but I'm quite sure custom setting f2 is the silver bullet. Check it out!
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Yes i have assigned the ael button for af-on, took a bit to figure, why nikon thinks this way, to qualify the zfc in the same bracket as the d3000 series.
Maybe the zfc did come out of a 3d printer. Thanks for the help. ;)
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If only the Nikon Z fc had two function buttons on the front I might succumb to its cuteness (actually size and weight and cuteness) even without IBIS.
Dave
I need to get off my ass and recommended the Z fc to a nephew with a 6 month old baby.
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Yes i have assigned the ael button for af-on, took a bit to figure, why nikon thinks this way, to qualify the zfc in the same bracket as the d3000 series.
Maybe the zfc did come out of a 3d printer. Thanks for the help. ;)
A lot of people get confused if you hand them a camera where you have to press separate buttons to focus and take the shot. Quite a number of times this has created problems. People think they can use the camera and then get blurry out of focus shots. Having a camera default to focusing on the shutter button is the way cameras ship. Even today if you pick a flagship body from the box, the shutter button focuses and AF-ON also focuses but doesn't perform any additional useful functions without reprogramming either AF-ON (to lock or e.g. change focus area mode) or the shutter button (not to focus). So in both cases most people will need to go into the custom settings to make the camera behave in an all-around sensible way.
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theres now rebate of up to 100eu for this :o :o :o
still wont buy, bought a MIOJ 135/4, 21/4 and 35/2.5 ::) these are more valuable for my in my opinion (also a rare 12-bladed flektogon)
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The Chinese company Viltrox recently has released several AF lenses in native Z mount. I got the AF 23mm f/1.4 STM ED IF (their designation, not mine) for the Z fc. This is a small, quite compact modern 11 elements in 10 groups design with ED and aspherical elements. Plus of course it has the electronics to allow the lens to communicate with the camera and conduct AF. It is made for the DX format.
Price was very reasonable and the lens shipped fast as well, apparently from a facility in the Netherlands. I got it this afternoon so just a few quick shots.The workmanship and build appear to be excellent and the lens itself delivered very sharp and contrasty images.
First example, of the fruiting rowan, is at f/1.4 and done in strong wind. I just pushed AF-ON and hoped for the best.
Second example is at f/5.6. NEFs are run through Photo Ninja with default settings.
I probably will open a dedicated thread for this lens, however it seems pertinent to sketch its potential here as it evidently is designed with Z fc (and similar cameras) in mind. The entry of new and competent lens makers is of course always welcome, no matter what camera their products target.
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Two friends and morning coffee.
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Looks nice, promising options for the zfc.
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Zfc, 10,5mm fisheye, noise reduction at 1400 iso with Topaz Labs
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The Zfc is a lovely looking camera, but for me, when I look at the small purpose built Micro Four Thirds (MFT) lenses from the likes of Olympus and Panasonic/Lumix, it still bothers me that the lenses in the DX/APS-C world have not gotten down to the lens sizes and weights to the extent that the MFT manufacturers have for that only slightly smaller format.
If and when they do get more complementary DX lens sizes & weights, then sales of cameras like the Zfc & Z50 (and their counterparts from other makers) will surely benefit.
Whilst it is good from a legacy perspective that the the DX bodies will accept the Z-mount FX lenses (and F-mount lenses via the FTZ adapter), it still seems most unfortunate to me that the Z mount DX lens line appears to look too much like their bigger brothers and sisters from the FX line rather than lenses designed from scratch in order to complement the smaller form mirrorless DX bodies.
If Birna's image of the Zfc with the 23mm Viltrox is anything to go by, then maybe manufacturers such as Viltrox might hopefully step in and fill this void? Let us hope so.
Just my 0.02c worth.
Two friends and morning coffee.
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The Zfc is a lovely looking camera, but for me, when I look at the small purpose built Micro Four Thirds (MFT) lenses from the likes of Olympus and Panasonic/Lumix, it still bothers me that the lenses in the DX/APS-C world have not gotten down to the lens sizes and weights to the extent that the MFT manufacturers have for that only slightly smaller format.
The problem with the really small MFT lenses (ones that are true pancakes) is the image quality isn't that impressive. It may be good enough but review sites haven't really been that impressed with them.
Whilst it is good from a legacy perspective that the the DX bodies will accept the Z-mount FX lenses (and F-mount lenses via the FTZ adapter), it still seems most unfortunate to me that the Z mount DX lens line appears to look too much like their bigger brothers and sisters from the FX line rather than lenses designed from scratch in order to complement the smaller form mirrorless DX bodies.
Which Z DX lenses did you have in mind?
At least the 16-50mm DX is very small.
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Which Z DX lenses did you have in mind?
At least the 16-50mm DX is very small.
I agree with Hugh so I'll answer these two questions:
First the lenses don't have to be pancake lenses but they should not be FX size lenses. They should be proportional in size to the cameras they are designed for. There is no 35mm, 28mm or 24mm f/1.8 or f/2.0 lens in Nikon's Z DX line up and there should be. The Nikon 28mm f/2.8 NIKKOR Z Lens (SE) is a reasonable size but f/2.8 is far too slow and there is no need for it to cover FX if it is intended for use on a Nikon Z DX body.
The Nikon NIKKOR Z DX 16-50mm f/3.5-6.3 VR Lens is smaller than it needs to be. It's OK as a low cost kit lens but f/6.3 is ridiculously slow for me. A better quality build 16-50mm f/3.5-4.5 would be a start but a 16-50mm f/4.0 would be what I would find reasonable.
If Nikon is serious about Z DX then there should be a high quality 16-55mm f/4.0 and f/2.8 zoom and it's size should be proportional to the Z50 and Z fc not to the Z7 II or Z6 II.
Here is a list of Z DX lenses for sale at B&H Photo today, 2021-09-09:
Nikon NIKKOR Z DX 16-50mm f/3.5-6.3 VR Lens
Nikon NIKKOR Z DX 18-140mm f/3.5-6.3 VR Lens
Nikon NIKKOR Z DX 50-250mm f/4.5-6.3 VR Lens
They all have a maximum aperture of f/6.3 at the long zoom setting so NO sale! I believe they all have plastic rear bayonets so again NO sale!
I've mentioned the AF-D 28-70/3.5-4.5 Nikkor many times and noted that it is suitable for a D850. I've mentioned that it gives "decent" images wide open but if at all possible I stop down to f/6.3 to f/8.0. If I stop down an f/6.3 lens one stop I'm at f/9.0. That is ridiculous and about as far as I'm willing to stop down a lens on DX except maybe f/11 for macro. An f/6.3 maximum aperture lens is TOTALLY unacceptable for low light photography.
I would probably buy a Nikon Z fc if it had two function buttons on the front and I could buy quality Z DX lens or two that is proportional to the body. Given the Z fc's size and price point I've come to accept no IBIS. The lack of two function buttons on the face of the Z fc makes the camera unacceptable to me for casual guest events photography.
Again No plastic rear bayonet! I will not buy a lens with one! Even my 75-150/3.5 Nikon Series-E zoom had a chromed, bronze bayonet.
I'm not interested in collecting vintage rangefinder lenses (for myself) to use on a modern Nikon Z mount mirrorless camera. I find reading about them interesting and seeing photos of the cameras and lenses but I'm not a buyer.
I want quality Z DX lenses that are proportional to Nikon Z DX bodies or I'm not a buyer.
Dave
All typographical errors and loose logic is expressly intended! :D
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Dave, with your wishlist a switch to Fujifilm DX seems almost logical ;)
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There is some information here about plastic vs metal mounts:
https://petapixel.com/2014/01/03/metal-mounts-really-better-plastic-lens-rentals-investigates/ (https://petapixel.com/2014/01/03/metal-mounts-really-better-plastic-lens-rentals-investigates/)
I don't like plastic mount either but accept them on the two lenses I have. I feel confident that I will not need to have the plastic mount replaced as I am quite careful when I mount lenses. The good thing is that a plastic mount is very gentle to the camera mount. As indicated in article above is if plastic mount breaks then usually there is no other damage to lens and mount is easy to replace.
The 16-50 DX kit lens feels like higher quality than expected. It seems to have some metal parts and when "folded out" there is very little "play" and image quality is high. The lens also has VR which is nice when the body is without "IBIS".
A lens like 16-50 (and also a FTZ adapter) should be bought in a kit. Then a lot of money is saved. I got my Z50 together with 16-50 and FTZ and kit was discounted because box had been opened. So my 16-50 was almost "free".
What about 2nd hand prices on this lens? should be cheap?
About the 6.3 aperture:
Lens performs well at 6.3 but does not give the OOF blur as a faster lens. But VR helps slow shutter speeds and higher ISO is also a possibility.
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Also "plastic" can be "many things" today but I am not a "plastic expert" :-)
Fiber reinforced "plastic" can be quite strong.
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Yes I have got 16-50 that’s excellent lens on the wide range but no bokeh with the f 6.3
To gain some bokeh in DX I’m thinking this lens that looks very good in the very first reviews
https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1659394-REG/viltrox_af_23_1_4_z_23mm_f_1_4_autofocus_lens.html (https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1659394-REG/viltrox_af_23_1_4_z_23mm_f_1_4_autofocus_lens.html)
Dave: 18-140z not yet released
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I can confirm the Viltrox 23mm f/1.4 is excellent on the Z fc. A small package with the camera as well. A moderate price rounds off the advantages nicely.
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Lens performs well at 6.3 but does not give the OOF blur as a faster lens. But VR helps slow shutter speeds and higher ISO is also a possibility.
Background blurring is not to be expected with a DX camera unless the subject is very close to the lens. For example a 70/2.8 lens will blur the background behind a person if the subject distance is about 2 meters but the blurred object will be quite recognizable. Even a 50/1.2 wide open won't give significant background blurring. This is as apposed to a 105/2.5 or 2.8 on FX which does a lovely job.
If I want less background blurring rather than more DX is the format choice. I've toyed with buying a D500 for macro, telephoto and where I'd like less background blurring. Now I'm thinking a Z7 II or Z6 II shooting DX with shorter lenses might work better for me.
To sum this up FX with longer lenses for more background blurring and DX with shorter lens for less background blurring.
Dave
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It looks like Dave has beaten me here. :)
As an Olympus MFT/M43 user, there is a consistent line of fast ( ~f/1.8 ) prime lenses such as the 12mm, 17mm, 25mm, 45mm, 60mm, and 75mm primes, which with the possible exception of the 75mm lens are quite small, built to a high standard, and are in keeping with the size of the bodies they are designed to be used on. Yes there are some larger examples from the Olympus and Panasonic stables, but there are a wide choice of modest sized lenses to be had. (I do concede that my 17mm f/2.8 M.Zuiko pancake is very soft - although this is not true of all pancakes, e.g. my CV 40mm f/2.9 Ultron is quite sharp.)
I have certainly heard good things said about the Nikon Z DX 16-50mm f/3.5-6.3 VR Lens, but it is slow at the long end. Whilst I have not had the pleasure of using this lens, I am somewhat spoilt by the Olympus 12-40mm constant f/2.8 maximum aperture lens, what with its great optical performance and high build standards.
In terms of the Nikon F-mount DX line what strikes me is that many have the similar diameters and bulk to their FX cousins - although often lighter due to their construction.
The problem with the really small MFT lenses (ones that are true pancakes) is the image quality isn't that impressive. It may be good enough but review sites haven't really been that impressed with them.
Which Z DX lenses did you have in mind?
At least the 16-50mm DX is very small.
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Any news on the availability of the en-el25 battery, still out of stock?
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Any news on the availability of the en-el25 battery, still out of stock?
Still not available. What a shame. I guess that's what forced Nikon to include USB-charging on the Z fc ::)
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USB charging is slower as checked on my z50, there is a need for extra battery
Some months ago I lost my MH-32 charger and I was forced to use usb >:(
I ordered a new charger and then I found the... lost one
Maybe I am the only one with two chargers for one battery ;)
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Nasos, could you look where you "found" your "lost" charger- Ive misplaced one of my Df chargers, can't find it anywhere, and I know it came back to Canada from our European rivers cruise, about five years ago. . .
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Kenneth, you might try a look below the insert of your camera bag. Been there, done that :)
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My last icon of my lost charger is somewhere in the car 8)
During summer vacation I usually prepare myself and doing this I found the charger in one plastic bag containing car accessories in the warehouse :P
It took me 3 months to live without the new one and 6 months to find the old
Don’t look where you think that might be , just look elsewhere!
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The Chinese company Viltrox recently has released several AF lenses in native Z mount. I got the AF 23mm f/1.4 STM ED IF (their designation, not mine) for the Z fc. This is a small, quite compact modern 11 elements in 10 groups design with ED and aspherical elements. Plus of course it has the electronics to allow the lens to communicate with the camera and conduct AF. It is made for the DX format.
Price was very reasonable and the lens shipped fast as well, apparently from a facility in the Netherlands. I got it this afternoon so just a few quick shots.The workmanship and build appear to be excellent and the lens itself delivered very sharp and contrasty images.
Hi Birna where did you get the lens from?
Thank you
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This is to let Nikon Z fc owners who might want a compact flash for the Z fc for family gatherings, parties, church, clubs, news letters or macro photography were the flash is used to freeze motion when a tripod can not be used. Here is the link...
https://nikongear.net/revival/index.php?topic=10189.0
I don't see any action at this topic. Maybe this is because few here are interested in flash. I think the thread may ultimately be of interest to Nikon Z fc owners or any Nikon DSLM (digital single lens mirrorless) camera that does not have a popup flash. Owners of recent DSLR(s) without a popup flash may be interested also.
Best,
Dave
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Hi Birna where did you get the lens from?
Thank you
Purchased on amazon.co.uk. It shipped very fast.
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Well, I've joined the club, filled the bag, and the Zeiss Planar 2/45 looks like it ws designed for the little Z fc. It works so well and looks so at home on the fc camera body that I took the G1 body to the local hospital charity store and donated it. It is a neat, small lens, but it sure is heavy, in relation to the fc body.
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It was not the kit with the 28/2.8 SE version lens?
I am interested in how the 28/2.8 performs. It is nice compact lens (even that it is plastic).
I can see it is also made as a "non SE" version.
Is there any any advantage in getting the "SE" version?
When I look at the front element and compare the two versions it could look like that the "SE" version has better protection against "false light"?
At least the front looks a bit different and if the "SE" version is not as "mass produced" as the other the "SE" version may be a bit higher quality........?
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It was not the kit with the 28/2.8 SE version lens?
I am interested in how the 28/2.8 performs.
Did you look at Ricci's https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i4MGF2qO7DI ?
Includes an initial comparison to the 28mm/1.4E
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It seems the 28/2.8 will be a good buy.
Must assume the "non-SE" version performs same as "SE" version.
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I just received Viltrox 56mm f/1.4, the 'big' brother to the small 23mm f/1.4. According to the first test frames wih the Z fc, it is even better. Amazing performance given its moderate price. And it suits the Z fc like a glove. Perfect balance.
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I just received Viltrox 56mm f/1.4, the 'big' brother to the small 23mm f/1.4. According to the first test frames wih the Z fc, it is even better. Amazing performance given its moderate price.
Did you order by rollei.de prices are low, Birna
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Amazon (UK) - shipped quickly.
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Birna, sometime I would love to hear your thoughts on the DX Zfc in comparison to its venerable FX Df predecessor, especially when they are just used as stills cameras (Zfc).
It is clear from current and past postings that you have always liked the Df. I appreciate that the short Z lens register enables adapted lenses to be easily tried out on the Zfc, but my interest in them is just as general stills cameras rather than as experimenters tools.
TIA.
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On a general level they share a lot of similarities, amongst these a degree of endearment and the importance of being far from perfect. Meaning it is up to the photographer to wring whatever you want out of them. Both models love old and manual lenses. However, the Z fc probably is better suited to AF, at least in the manner I use the camera.
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Thanks for this. I have the Df, but have held back on the Zfc (well so far that is). ;D
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I think there is a positive response to the Z fc for users of the Df.
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A quick demonstration of what the Viltrox 56mm f/1.4 can deliver. Taken at f/1.4 ISO 100 hand-held and run through Photo Ninja with every option turned off. NX Studio delivers better and truer colours as it knows all about the Z fc, while PN hardly know anything other than the pixel dimension of the NEF. Nonetheless, the result delivered by PN is clearly "better" in terms of image clarity and micro tonality, although colours are a little off (too much red etc.). Until PN has a profile for Z fc, I have to build session profiles, or just ignore the colour inaccuracy.
Anyway, the entire frame, then 100% crop. Focus by AF on the white picket fence. It is almost unbelievable this is f/1.4 with a modestly priced lens.
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Seems excellent!
The question is: are these lens going to completely substitute your full frame Z camera and lens?
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Of course not. It's all about having the right tool for the task at hand.
I happen to like using the Z fc, just as I took the Df in from the cold as it were and have shoot most of my leisure photography with it since November, 2013.
The arrival of these Viltrox lenses is a clear indication the company has successfully reverse-engineered the Z protocol to give their lenses the highest degree of compatibility with native Z lenses. Combine that with the ability to make good optical designs at affordable prices and all of us can benefit.
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Assume you also have the 50/1.8 S-line?
When will the 56/1.4 be used over the 50/1.8?
For 1.4 use only? .....the extra 6mm focal length does not mean a lot?
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The Viltox 56mm is dwarfed by any of the native Z S-Line lenses. The latter do not balance well on the small Z fc. The 35mm f/1.8 S-Line is passable, though, but I prefer lenses that are smaller.
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Ok, the Viltox is a "DX-lens" and quite small compared to the 50/1.8 S-line.
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Now wish they make a 15mm, or 24mm equivalent.
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Ok, the Viltox is a "DX-lens" and quite small compared to the 50/1.8 S-line.
1/3 the size. And 2/3 stop "faster".
Laowa has plenty of wide-angle lenses 15mm or shorter in native Z mount, but no AF. Their lenses are quite small and compact, though, and well made.
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Well, I have no shortage of AI /AIS lenses lined up and waiting to try themselves out on this delightful little camera body, but I do have one request: is it possible to set it up in similar manner as I have done with my beloved df; I can shift between auto ISO and manual ISO without going into Menu( button and wheel) and scrabbling through the headings looking for ISO sensitivity control to change things, and I hope someone can give me the short-cut solution for quick changes, or am I doomed to failure because of that missing second button on the front?
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1/3 the size. And 2/3 stop "faster".
And 1/3 the price ;)
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...or am I doomed to failure because of that missing second button on the front?
The Nikon Z fc was designed for who it was designed for. I need another function button also. I'm not the Nikon Z fc's target customer.
Dave
Perhaps there will be a somewhat bigger FX camera similar to the Z fc? I need a second function button and I need in body image stabilization for AI and AIS lenses of 135mm focal length and shorter. It's time for me to wait.
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Unfortunately, I'm not the target customer either, Dave, I'm eighty-two next birthday, if I'm lucky :D If Nikon offered the option on the button that is already there I'd graciously accept it.
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Now wish they make a 15mm, or 24mm equivalent.
Hi Fons. here’s a nice summary of most ultra wide angle lenses available for mirrorless:
https://phillipreeve.net/blog/user-guide-ultra-wideangle-lenses-sony-alpha-7-series/
The majority is also available for Z mount or is easily adapted.
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Thank you, JA yes i am familiar with Philip Reeve, on nikons time line for the z mount a wide angle zoom for the dx format is also in the pipeline.
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The 12-28(?) DX for Z is probably a very interesting option, but it's anyone's guess how long we have to wait for it. For now I put the Laowa 11/4.5 on the Z fc and get very good results since its not-so-good-corners are cut off by the DX format. Might consider the 9/5.6 Laowa if the perceived need for a superwide lens takes precedence.
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About time the Z fc makes a selfie of itself. With a 55mm f/1.2 Nikkor-O CRT lens on it, a wide focus range from here to there incl. infinity is possible.
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I see no camera, I see no lens; what I see is a frightening selfie of a very Kyklopean Birna.
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I see no camera, I see no lens; what I see is a frightening selfie of a very Kyklopean Birna.
Not sure what you want to say??? Doesn't seem appropriate. Please hold your horses!
Thank you.
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Tried three dtse alternative batteries, when the nikon batteries are not available, after a few charges they all fail zfc must be chipped to single out non-originals,
Are they yet available the original en-el25's?
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I have two of them -- didn't know they were scarce?
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They seem to get back in stock i ordered 2 of them will arrive in three weeks, yes they were out of stock for months.
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EN-EL25 batteries are somewhat scarce, and overpriced: they cost almost the same as EN-EL15c's (62€ vs 68€ RRP from nikonstore.it), which have more than twice the capacity (2280 mAh vs 1120 mAh). The same is true for compatible batteries, about 40-50€ for a compatible EN-EL25 vs 30-40€ for a compatible EN-EL15 (even lower if you buy a 2-pack). There are many more cameras ( I count at least 19 models) using EN-EL15x batteries, there's only the Z50 and Zfc using the EN-EL25. This is the possible cause of the higher price of the EN-EL25.
This thread seems to have stopped abruptly on Dec.31, I am going to revive it a bit with my findings on the Zfc (bought feb 2022).
Ciao from Massimo
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BUILD QUALITY
Everything OK, except the battery door, which is very flimsy, especially the latch
BUTTONS AND DIALS
Buttons are where they should, the AE-L/AF-L button can be remapped as AF-ON (Menu...Controls..f2).
Be careful, I was fooled the first time around, with the factory default it looks like there are only 3 options available, but if you scroll up the rest of the entries become visible, including AF-ON!
The absence of a second Fn button up front is not justifiable even by aesthetics, if they wanted to make a perfectly FM/FE looking camera they would have had to exclude the front and rear control dials (which are absent throughout the Fex/Fmx series). Are they working to pull out a ZfcII, like they did with Z6II/Z7II ? I remember Nikon being more serious than that!
It is possible to use the red Video Record button as an alternative to the missing Fn2. The default when not in video mode is the BKT function, most functions that can be assigned to Fn (but not all) can be assigned to the Video Record Button.
The exposure compensation dial is a little smallish, I can live with it, but others did not like it. You can avoid using it with most AF-capable Nikkor Z lenses (24-70/4S and 2.8S, 14-30/4S, 14-24/2.8S, 28-75, 24-200, ...), by mapping the Lens Control Ring (bottom menu option in Menu...Controls..f2...Custom Controls (shooting)) to Exposure compensation. It works flawlessly and smoothly, naturally you lose the MF feature in the lens (can use only in AF modes), but then if you use fully manual vintage lenses you don't lose anything, the focus ring works as usual with vintage MF AI-AIS-nonAI-RF lenses.
One notice: in order for the mapping to work, the exposure compensation dial has to be set (to the 0 position) to the dedicated "C" position opposite the 0 position on the compensation dial, otherwise you turn the Lens Control ring and nothing happens. With that smooth operation you are free to concentrate on the image, and the exposure compensation is visible on the viewfinder (the image turns darker or lighter, and the amount of compensation is shown on the R side).
Ciao from Massimo
[EDIT: corrected the needed setting of the compensation dial to have the Lens Control Ring work as expected]
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HANDLING
The absence of a grip, or at least a small bulge on R side as the Df had, added to the fact that the camera is really small (it disappears in my hands), prompted me to immediately buy an additional grip for my Zfc.
I was considering three choices:
- The original Nikon Zfc-GR1, well built but it costs a fortune (available in Europe, can be found for 133€ on official nikonstore.it), and it does not have any advantages over compatible models.
- the JJC version, about 50€ on Amazon or Ebay, less if ordered from China, has an Arca-Swiss wedge at the base and a 1/4" thread
- The SmallGrip version, about 50€ on Amazon, same price from China, has an Arca-Swiss wedge at the base and a 1/4" thread, plus an additional 1/4" thread embedded on the vertical part of the grip. Very good looks, this is the one I selected
Additional bonus: the grip has a passageway underneath for opening the battery compartment without dismounting the grip itself, and also it protects the -flimsy- battery door from damage. For me, an essential part of my camera setup!
ciao from Massimo
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I like the layout of the Z fc as it is. The "flat" front makes adapting some exotic lenses very easy, in contrast to most other of the modern cameras. I'm looking for an L-bracket with the rising part on the camera's left-hand side. The "solution" of a grip that just offers a 1/4" thread not an Arca plate is not my cup of tea (or coffee).
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I like the layout of the Z fc as it is. The "flat" front makes adapting some exotic lenses very easy, in contrast to most other of the modern cameras. I'm looking for an L-bracket with the rising part on the camera's left-hand side. The "solution" of a grip that just offers a 1/4" thread not an Arca plate is not my cup of tea (or coffee).
There are gripless , simple, light and inexpensive L-brackets with two ARCA-compatible plates, the one for portrait mode -as you are requesting- on L-hand side.
From China, about 10€, for an example see link: https://www.ebay.com/itm/283477706973 (https://www.ebay.com/itm/283477706973).
It is symmetrical, can be mounted on either side
Naturally it's not a dedicated bracket so to access the battery compartment you'll have to unscrew (just a bit) and rotate the bracket.
BTW, the embedded 1/4" thread on the Smallgrip grip is just for the occasional usage, not too much of a problem with me, I generally shoot handheld with no tripod or monopod.
Ciao from Massimo
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VIBRATION REDUCTION
After mounting the Z-Nikkor 24-70/4 on the Zfc, I noticed that the VR icon was grayed out. I knew the Zfc does not have IBIS, but I had overlooked the fact that most Z-Nikkors dont't have lens-embedded VR.
Here's the list of Z-Nikkors that have lens-embedded VR:
- 24-200/4-6.3 VR
- 100-400/4.5-5.6 VR S
- 16-50/3.5-6.3 DX VR
- 18-140/3.5-6.3 VR
- 50-250/4.5-6.3 DX VR
- 70-200/2.8 VR S
- 400/2.8 TC VR S
- 105/2.8 MC VR S
Practically all prime lenses except the 105/2.8 μNikkor are without lens-embedded VR!
Same goes for the first zooms presented in the Z lineup (14-30, 14-24, 24-70/4 24-70/2.8, 24-50), and notably the latest zoom offering: 24-120 (no embedded VR)
Fortunately, the 16-50mm kit lens does have embedded VR, which compensates the relatively "dark" aperture of 3.5-6.3. I suspect it's going to be a popular lens, not only because it's being offered as a kit lens. There are many "used" 16-50s on Ebay, when people will start realizing that it's one of the few z-mount lenses that have VR, the "dumping" of this lens is going to decrease...
Ciao from Massimo
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Just use fast primes and electronic first curtain or full electronic shutter, should work just fine in most cases.
VR is only really needed with long lenses or lenses with slow aperture like the mentioned consumer zooms.
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I also like VR with wideangles in dark places where a tripod or a monopod is prohibited, lenses like the AFS-Nikkor 16-35mm/4. A little large for the Zfc, especially because you have to use the FTZ adapter, but fine down to 1/2".
Ciao from Massimo
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I also like VR with wideangles in dark places where a tripod or a monopod is prohibited, lenses like the AFS-Nikkor 16-35mm/4. A little large for the Zfc, especially because you have to use the FTZ adapter, but fine down to 1/2".
Ciao from Massimo
Yep, I was just going to add, walking inside amazing old buildings, churches etc I've struggled to get a good iso & high enough shutter sometimes
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If one started with Nikon with a clasic SLR - notably a FM, FE2, FA or in my case FM2, the Zfc feels a familiar instrument in one's hand. Obviously, it's superior in greater flexibility and all the digital bells & whistles. I have Fn assigned to scroll AFMode and AFC/AFS/MF etc, but I agree I agree only one single Fn button is a big mistake by Nikon. I don't find the battery door much of a risk, because it's must simpler to charge the battery on USB. Downloading images via USB is also fairly fast (RAW+jpg in my case)....particularly as i'd stopped using SD cards after the D780 was traded in.
The main hassle IME is there is no dedicated Auto-ISO position on the ISO dial, top camera left. Neither can it be set up in the i-Menu. A simple work around is to setup this control at the top of MyMenu, and dedicate Red-Record button as the hot key. Rather quick to toggle On/Off, which is must faster than menu burrowing.
I have a 40 f2 as standard prime, and also the nifty smaller 16-50 DX, which is a really decent optic. The 24-120 f4S is my do most longer lens on the Zfc
BUILD QUALITY
Everything OK, except the battery door, which is very flimsy, especially the latch
BUTTONS AND DIALS
Buttons are where they should, the AE-L/AF-L button can be remapped as AF-ON (Menu...Controls..f2).
Be careful, I was fooled the first time around, with the factory default it looks like there are only 3 options available, but if you scroll up the rest of the entries become visible, including AF-ON!
The absence of a second Fn button up front is not justifiable even by aesthetics, if they wanted to make a perfectly FM/FE looking camera they would have had to exclude the front and rear control dials (which are absent throughout the Fex/Fmx series). Are they working to pull out a ZfcII, like they did with Z6II/Z7II ? I remember Nikon being more serious than that!
It is possible to use the red Video Record button as an alternative to the missing Fn2. The default when not in video mode is the BKT function, most functions that can be assigned to Fn (but not all) can be assigned to the Video Record Button.
The exposure compensation dial is a little smallish, I can live with it, but others did not like it. You can avoid using it with most AF-capable Nikkor Z lenses (24-70/4S and 2.8S, 14-30/4S, 14-24/2.8S, 28-75, 24-200, ...), by mapping the Lens Control Ring (bottom menu option in Menu...Controls..f2...Custom Controls (shooting)) to Exposure compensation. It works flawlessly and smoothly, naturally you lose the MF feature in the lens (can use only in AF modes), but then if you use fully manual vintage lenses you don't lose anything, the focus ring works as usual with vintage MF AI-AIS-nonAI-RF lenses.
One notice: in order for the mapping to work, the exposure compensation dial has to be set to the 0 position, otherwise you turn the Lens Control ring and nothing happens. With that smooth operation you are free to concentrate on the image, and the exposure compensation is visible on the viewfinder (the image turns darker or lighter, and the amount of compensation is shown on the R side).
Ciao from Massimo
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The Zfc continues to gather attention and endorsements
this guy https://youtu.be/Fw2iA18m7_s
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40 f2, ISO 2200 f8
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VIDEO
Another use for the Lens Compensation Ring is being able when you shoot video to implement fade-outs and fade-ins. You can smoothly turn the Ring down to -5 (or up to +5) exposure. Not a uinque feature of the Zfc, you can implement this feature in any Z camera from Z9 down to the Z50. It's nice to know it can be done on the Zfc also. You can also assign the aperture to the Lens Ring, it works much more smoothly than the usual front/rear dials which work with clicks, not smooth at all. Try and believe for yourselves!
My new "used" 16-50 arrived today, they are still dumping it, I only paid 160€, inclusive of postage (SRP is 379€), it's a neat little lens, very good in the retracted position fits most pockets, for me it's going to become my everyday carry camera.
Ciao from Massimo
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DIFFERENCES BETWEEN Zfc AND Z50
Zfc and Z50 are similar, but not equal.
The main differences are:
The Zfc exposure times can go down to 900" (15 minutes!), the Z50 goes down to only the usual 30"
On the Z50, you can assign UP and DOWN to FN1 and Fn2 for the Exposure compensation and Aperture. You can do this on the Lens control Ring on Zfc.
The Zfc has a menu option for setting the parameters (focal length, max aperture) of up to 20 NON-CPU lenses. Z50 does not have this one.
The Z50 has an option for customizing the i menu with the ISO selection, the Zfc has a dedicated L-side dial for it.
The LCD on the Zfc is articulated, on the Z50 it is only orientable
The Z50 has an integrated flash, the Zfc does not have one.
The Z50 has U1 and U2 config save/restore buttons, Zfc does not
On the Zfc you can customize the i menu with the following (not available on the Z50):
- Interval Timer shooting
- Time-lapse Video
- Focus-shift shooting
You can assign the following to the Zfc Fn button (can't be assigned on Z50):
- in association with dial, change exposure mode (Matrix, semi-spot, spot, ...)
- Silent photography ON/OFF
The following are available features on the Zfc, (N/A on the Z50)
- Monitor Color Balance
- Pixel Mapping
- USB Power Delivery
Both Zfc and Z50 are compatible with a dedicated Bluetooth remote ML-L7, which has two additional Fn1 and Fn2 buttons, which can be assigned from camera menus with -few- different options than cameras' Fn Fn1 and Fn2. It would be nice if the button assignments could be the same as what can be assigned to the camera's Fn buttons. Instead only 4 assignments are possible.
You can assign the following to either Fn1 / Fn2:
Same as i Button
Same as Play Button
Same as MENU Button
Disabled (No Operation)
The shooting button has no half press. it focuses and shoots.
The + and - buttons at the top are used to zoom in/out during Live View.
The Multi-selector on the Remote, and its central OK button, function the same as the camera's multi-selector. For example, when you are zoomed in, you can navigate up/down/L/R in the zoomed image with the 4 arrows, just as you would do with the in-camera selector. The zoomed image can be a live-view image or one of the photos saved in memory.
Ciao from Massimo
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WISH LIST
No camera is perfect, there are features each one of us would like to be implemented in our toys...
On the Zfc, I immediately looked at the Non-CPU lens data menu.
(GOOD) Now they have a menu with 20 focal entries instead of just 9 (all Z cameras have this, Z50 has 0 entries), an improvement over just 5 years ago, where the D500 had only 9 entries
(BAD) NIH syndrome: the possible selections for focal length are limited, there is no option for selecting say 90mm (Voigtlaender 90mm/3.5) or 7.5mm (hey Nikon, you invented this one!)
(BAD) Same with max apertures, you are limited to f:1.2 - f:22 range, so you cannot properly identify lenses such as 5cm RF Nikkor f:1.1, or Rodenstock Heligons, or a pinhole lens (maybe f:90?)
(WISH) Would it be sooo difficult to have 1 configurable menu entry, where you enter the aperture (between f:0.5 and f:256 just to stay on the safe side) and focal length (between 1mm and 5000mm)?
Chipping a lens is a possible solution, Dandelion chips have a greater choice of apertures (1 1.1 1.2 1.3 1.4 1.5 1.6 1.7 1.8 1.9 2.0 ... up to 90, Nikon has a meager 1.2 1.4 1.8 2 ... 22 - very limited choices), and focal lengths starting at 5 6 7 8 10 12 14 15 17 18 20 21 22 24 ... 2000 mm, with 42 and 90 mm available, while Nikon has 6 8 13 15 16 18 20 24 ... 4000 mm, curiously extending the tele choices up to 4 metres focal length, but with limited choices especially in the superwide/wide angle section.
Now that the Zee mount has made it possible to attach almost any piece of glass to a Zee body, it would be nice that they follow suit with the ability to configure any lens.
PLEASE, NIKON, DO SOMETHING!
More wishes coming...
Ciao from Massimo
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WISH LIST
(BAD) NIH syndrome: the possible selections for focal length are limited, there is no option for selecting say 90mm (Voigtlaender 90mm/3.5) or 7.5mm (hey Nikon, you invented this one!)
This is the same situation with DSLRs - the focal lengths available are only those for F-mount lenses that Nikon made. So for example, you have 80mm (from 80-200 zoom), 85mm (from primes), 86mm (43-86mm), but no 90mm. Curiously, 36mm and 72mm from the series-E 36-72/3.5 are not on the list :o :)
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Getting the non-CPU data close matters, at least it did to my Nikon D2H. Here is an experiment I did back in 2005. The lens must have been a 105mm f/2.8 AIS Micro-Nikkor...
(https://live.staticflickr.com/7752/16769505623_e1a91cb172.jpg)
(https://flic.kr/p/rxS6Mi)Maxtrix with non-CPU Data (https://flic.kr/p/rxS6Mi) by Dave Hartman (https://www.flickr.com/photos/mr_speedlight/), on Flickr
Where there isn't a match, for a 90mm f/2.8 lens I'd probably use 85mm and f/2.8 for non-CPU data.
Dave
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[To keep this on the same page: I'm quite sure the exposure mode was Aperture Preferred. The only variable between shots was the non-CPU data.]
[ I posted this note on Flickr with the image...
"This was shot with a Nikon D2H and a 105/2.8 AIS Micro-Nikkor. Deliberately entering the wrong non-CPU data, wrong aperture, gave incorrect exposure. This isn't exposure compensation this is giving the meter disinformation."
]
[I never tested giving the wrong focal length in the non-CPU data so I'm not sure what the effect would be.]
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Getting the non-CPU data close matters, at least it did to my Nikon D2H. Here is an experiment I did back in 2005. The lens must have been a 105mm f/2.8 AIS Micro-Nikkor...
(https://live.staticflickr.com/7752/16769505623_e1a91cb172.jpg)
(https://flic.kr/p/rxS6Mi)Maxtrix with non-CPU Data (https://flic.kr/p/rxS6Mi) by Dave Hartman (https://www.flickr.com/photos/mr_speedlight/), on Flickr
Where there isn't a match, for a 90mm f/2.8 lens I'd probably use 85mm and f/2.8 for non-CPU data.
Dave
Let me see if I understood correctly what you did:
You had a 105/2.8 μNikkor
You took three exposures varying only the Non-CPU lens data between exposures (105/1.2 105/2.8 105/5.0)
...and the observed results were overexposure, correct, underexposure. Were you using A=aperture priority?
D2H (and D2X, and D2Hs and D2Xs) had only one entry for the non-CPU lens data, but they had a neat option: for the focal length selection, you had a two-tier selection process:
-Initially you selected one of three options (wide 6-45 mm, mid 50-180mm, and tele 200-4000 mm)
-And then you scrolled through only the sublist, a faster process than scrolling through a huge single list
The problem you mention (getting as close as possible to actual focal length and aperture) is brought to an extreme with zooms: what to put in the non-CPU if you use a lens such as a 50-300 mm or an 8.5-25 cm ? I solved the problem by putting three contiguous selections (maybe 4 for the 50-300): 50, 100, 200, 300, or 85 135 250 and then switching non-CPU lens. On the Zfc the Non-CPU selection can be assigned either to the Fn button or to the red video record button, and you can scroll through the 20 entries by rotating either the front or back command dials (both are acting simultaneously).
Ciao from Massimo
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This is the same situation with DSLRs - the focal lengths available are only those for F-mount lenses that Nikon made. So for example, you have 80mm (from 80-200 zoom), 85mm (from primes), 86mm (43-86mm), but no 90mm. Curiously, 36mm and 72mm from the series-E 36-72/3.5 are not on the list :o :)
They don't have an entry for the 21 mm or the 1700 mm either, but I can live with that...
BTW, the 2.1cm/4 will fit on a Zfc only by adding an AI-N/Z tube PLUS an 11mm extension tube (it fits the Z6/Z7 without the extension tube, in this case the sensor box is wide enough).
You have infinity focussing on Z6/Z7, you lose infinity on the Zfc (MAX focussing distance is about 15 cm, the front lens almost touching the subject).
Ciao from Massimo
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From David's examples it is clear that not getting the correct maximum aperture correctly entered has a measurable effect on the exposure accuracy - especially when the entered maximum aperture is off by ~ +/- 2 stops.
Apart from achieving EXIF data accuracy, how profound is the error introduced (maybe ~10%) by not always being able to always input the correct focal length - especially where spot and centre weighted metering patterns are involved?
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From David's examples it is clear that not getting the correct maximum aperture correctly entered has a measurable effect on the exposure accuracy - especially when the entered maximum aperture is off by ~ +/- 2 stops.
Apart from achieving EXIF data accuracy, how profound is the error introduced (maybe ~10%) by not always being able to always input the correct focal length - especially where spot and centre weighted metering patterns are involved?
Automatic EXIF data accuracy is just a dream, if you don't edit manually the EXIFS you will have a horrible 0mm f/0 in the lens description, the documented focal length will obviously be the nearest available one you entered, and more parameters will be off. Here's a sample EXIF from a photo taken this morning with the Nikkor-O 2.1cm/4 on the Zfc (in red are marked additions and corrections to the EXIF):
[EXIF] ImageDescription: Immagini di prova con Nikon Zfc, adattatore AI-N/Z e tubo prolunga Z Meike 11mm
[EXIF] Make: NIKON CORPORATION
[EXIF] Model: NIKON Z fc
[EXIF] LensModel: 2.1cm f/4 Nikkor-O
[EXIF] ExposureTime: 1/50
[EXIF] FNumber: 4.0
[EXIF] ExposureCompensation: +2/3
[EXIF] ISO: 400
[EXIF] FocalLength: 21.0 mm
[EXIF] FocalLengthIn35mmFormat: 32 mm
[EXIF] ExposureMode: Auto
[MakerNotes] WhiteBalance: Auto0
[MakerNotes] Quality: Normal
[MakerNotes] FocusMode: Manual
[MakerNotes] AFAreaMode: Single
[EXIF] Flash: No Flash
[MakerNotes] VibrationReduction: Off
[MakerNotes] ActiveD-Lighting: Off
[EXIF] Orientation: Horizontal (normal)
[MakerNotes] HDR: Off
[EXIF] DateTimeOriginal: 2022:02:23 09:56:58
[EXIF] CreateDate: 2022:02:23 09:56:58
[MakerNotes] TimeZone: +01:00
[MakerNotes] DaylightSavings: No
[EXIF] Artist: Massimo Bianco
[EXIF] Copyright: ©2022 Massimo Bianco
[EXIF] UserComment: ©2022 Massimo Bianco
[EXIF] Software: Ver.01.20
[MakerNotes] ShutterCount: 440
[MakerNotes] MechanicalShutterCount: 440
[XMP] Subject: (Meike Tube 11 mm) , (AI_N/Z adapter)
[MakerNotes] SerialNumber: 6013963
[EXIF] LensMake: NIKON
[MakerNotes] Lens: 21mm f/4
[EXIF] LensSerialNumber: 226374
[MakerNotes] DirectoryNumber: 100
[MakerNotes] FileNumber: 0427
[EXIF] ExifImageWidth: 5568
[EXIF] ExifImageHeight: 3712
There are a few things that could be fixed in EXIF automatically by Nikon:
-They could have image width and height in the NEF's EXIF (Absent, instead present in JPG's EXIF)
-They could store image width and height according to orientation (if it's a portrait mode they could exchange the width with the height)
-Tey could report correctly the parameters inserted for the Non-CPU lens data entered instead of 0mm f/0
0mm f/0 should be displayed only if user has selected an empty entry among the 20 possible options!
Knowing Nikon's reputation for perfectionism, I don't understand why they haven't got it right in the 18 years (2004-2022) that these errors are present and documented throughout Nikon's lineup...
Ciao from Massimo
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You make the situation look even worse ... Image Comment should not be "RED" as the user always would have to enter this, if one bothers at all. For cameras able to record audio notes this is moot anyway as you can add whatever info you require there. Z fc alas is not amongst those but the Z6 and Z9 have the feature. Many cameras won't record the lens serial number even for AF lenses and I hardly call that a flaw.
Olympus (I have the E-M1.2) allows you to enter lens focal length, max. aperture, and a label for the lens itself. On the other hand, the available slots are restricted (5 if I remember corretly) and changing between them very awkward, like the remainder of its menu system. Olympus also has the nifty audio note feature although evidently implemented as an afterthought (like the Z6 obviously).
What I dislike the most is the loss of all automatic features of lenses we have enjoyed since the early '60s, just because we want to put that lens on our brand new mirrorless camera. Hopefully more third-party makers follow Viltrox and Cosina in provided us with updated Z-mount offerings having the required electronic circuitry built-in. Focusing a wide-angle lens at shooting aperture is worse than not having its data recorded in the EXIF after all.
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You make the situation look even worse ... Image Comment should not be "RED"
...
Birna, congrats for spotting this! I meant to put my own additions in a different color, but undoing the html red and putting in the html blue was too much! So I left it in one color!
[ this is also true of the line [XMP] Subject: (Meike Tube 11 mm) , (AI_N/Z adapter) - they are very optional keywords]
Fortunately, with the possibility of zooming in the EVF, focussing any MF lens, even superwides, has become easy-peasy...
On the Zfc, you don't even have to dedicate a button to zooming, the + and - zoom buttons are accessible by your thumb in a very natural manner, and the zoomed image is formed either on the EVF or on the rear LCD, depending on which one is the active display.
I record the serial number of the lens, especially when I have more than one sample of it, so it has become a consolidated habit.
I think it's possible (and a simple task) to create an AIS-FTZ adapter, with a connection to the Ai-AiS ring, and an encoder that translates the position of the ring into the actual apertures 1.4 2 2.8 4 ..., transmitting this information to the body. Naturally Nikon has the power to do this, probably they don't have the motivation...
Ciao from Massimo
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I have a Laowa 11mm lens and I can grant you focusing that lens at shooting aperture say f/11 is *not* easy-peasy zooming in or not.
Wide-angles are the achilles heel of the EVF and low light only exacerbates the issue.
Fortunately, as 99%+ of my existing lenses are CPU-enabled, they will work nicely if hooked up through an FTZ-type adapter. Anything else won't do as well, that is why I'd wish for more Z-mount solution with electronics inside. Failing that, I can at least use my decoding engine in the database to get the actual lens data when they are missing or incomplete, so an enhanced EXIF data sequence can be stored.
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Well, focussing an 11mm @f:11 is probably not necessary, everyhing is going to be in focus from 25 cm to ∞. It is also probably the reason why you don't see any apparent difference...
I don't have a Laowa, I have an IRIX 11 mm Blackstone MF (chipped), and it has similar optical behaviour. I bother focussing only when the lens is wide open (f:4 or f:5.6).
Back to Zfc, BALANCING
I have made a couple of outings with the Zfc and its kit lens, the 16-50mm, camera was hanging from my neck, using the standard Nikon Zfc strap with two Peak Desing Anchor Links at the ends, attached at the standard camera eyelets. Normally with a heavier lens (Z-Nikkor 24-70 or 14-30 etc...), camera bends with the lens pointing down. In this case the camera back was flush with my chest, and the eyepiece was getting foggy all the time. I had to wipe the eyepiece every time I took a photo. This morning, prior to the usual outing, I changed the suspension points of the strap, one Peak Design Anchor got attached to a slot provided in the SmallRig grip, and the other one to a Peak Design Anchor point screwed to the 1/4" thread at the base. PROBLEM SOLVED: no more fog condensing in the eyepiece. The camera is pointing down with any lens, no undue strain on the camera eyelets with long lenses.
Ciao from Massimo
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Critical focusing is also required for wide angle lenses. That they, well stopped down should have a tremendous depth of field so focusing isn't required is one of the stubborn myths of photography. This becomes plainly obvious when such lenses are used towards their near focusing limit, which is my usual way of doing wide-angle work.
I usually sling the camera over one should so haven't seen the problem you describe. Can't have the camera flat flush again the chest anyway these days :)
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This becomes plainly obvious when such lenses are used towards their near focusing limit, which is my usual way of doing wide-angle work.
Agree on the necessity for focussing at all times at near distance (50 cm and lower)
I also have two Peak design anchors (for extra bodies) on both shoulder straps of my backpack, but when I use a single camera I don't like to have it swung over a shoulder, when walking quickly it bounces around and it's more prone to bang against something.
Ciao from Massimo
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Use a short strap. That prevents the camera from swinging around and walking is more relaxed as well.
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BATTERIES
I waited a little before giving my impressions on batteries, both original and compatible, because I needed a longer count of actuations vs recharges.
Now I have one original EN-EL25 battery (came new with the camera) and two compatibles, PATONA brand.
As I said before, EN-EL25 batteries are overpriced for their capacity, both original and compatible
Capacity is half the capacity of an EN-EL15c and price is in the same ballpark (62€ the original, 40€ the compatible)
Autonomy: I got 169 shots from my first charged original battery (NEF+JPG), a little low but most of the time I was looking at rear LCD and configuring... so it does not really count.
I got 270 shots from one of the PATONA batteries, and then I got 250 shots from the recharged original. Same pattern in subsequent recharges.
Apparently the autonomy is the same from original and compatible. Only time will tell if they last the same in the long run.
My previous experience with PATONA is good, back in 2013 I bought some EN-EL15s for my D600, and all batteries (orig Nikon and PATONAs) are still alive!
Only problem, when I bought my Z6 and Z7, they refused to accept most (but not all) of the compatible EN-EL15s.
I had to label the incompatible ones "NO Z6".
A similar problem with EN-EL14s and D5300, only intermittent: a battery signalled as non useable becomes useable if you remove it and put it back in place. Mysteries of electronics!
Ciao from Massimo
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I tried altenative batteries for the Zfc they didnt charge, and the original battery tends to discharge easily when not in use.
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I tried altenative batteries for the Zfc they didnt charge, and the original battery tends to discharge easily when not in use.
You mean they didn't charge on the charger, or via the USB cable? I haven't tried charging via USB...
I assume you are having USB power delivery set to ON in the SETUP MENU (the one with the wrench icon), otherwise it won't work even with original batteries.
Ciao from Massimo
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I only use the mh-32 charger, non compatible batteries fail to charge by the 2nd charge on,"so after the camera understands its not an original nikon battery".
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I only use the mh-32 charger, non compatible batteries fail to charge by the 2nd charge on,"so after the camera understands its not an original nikon battery".
Let me have this straight:
You only use the original MH-32 charger
Non-original batteries fail to charge.
BIG Question: by what means do you realize that battery has failed to charge? (quickly flashing LED in the MH-32, or a message from the Zfc ?)
On the MH-32 you have three possibilities:
1) If the battery is in the process of charging you have a slowly blinking LED light (one every 2 seconds approximately)
2) If the charging cycle ended OK, you would have a steady LED light (but then the camera must have a sort of watchdog to dump non-originals, maybe some parameters were not updated in the battery? Usually the number of actuations is reset to ZERO when battery is recharged)
3) If there is a battery error you have a quickly blinking LED light (4 times a second) and battery does not charge. Usually this happens when a battery is defective (for example, if battery has a severe undervoltage, say 2.5V. Good voltage is between 7V and 8.1V). Any voltage tester wil tell you the actual voltage at battery terminals to confirm or negate that. You need very thin contacts on your tester.
The other problem (battery discharging when not in use): Do you turn off your camera when not in use? Do you have Airplane Mode Off? To save battery you should have Airplane Mode ON (means ALL wireless connectivity -bluetooth, wifi, ...- TURNED OFF), and then turn Airplane Mode OFF only when you want to use the remote, or you want to connect to a wi-fi network
Another question: what is the brand that's giving you problems?
Ciao from Massimo
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I have tried 3 batteries of the DSTE brand and they all failed, rapid blinking lights and no charge, have returned the batteries now i have 3 originals. The discharging batteries are spare batteries that are in not use.
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I have tried 3 batteries of the DSTE brand and they all failed, rapid blinking lights and no charge, have returned the batteries now i have 3 originals. The discharging batteries are spare batteries that are in not use.
Poor quality Li-Ion batteries will have no PCB circuitry (called BMS = Battery Management System) for low-voltage/high-voltage protection, while Nikon original batteries are equipped with BMS protection, and likewise the better compatible batteries. I suspect the DSTEs you bought (and returned) had no low-voltage protection. A single event of voltage going under a certain value, usually 2.5V per cell in the case of Li-Ions, can kill a battery (it won't recharge ever, even if you pray in Farsi). This is the reason for the voltage protection circuitry, which disconnects the battery at once (but saves the battery itself) when undervoltage event occurs.
Ciao from Massimo
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More on Battery Charging
I have an original Nikon EH-7P dedicated charger (came with my Z7) for charging via its permanently connected USB-C cable, and I tried to charge the batteries via USB.
Both my original battery (Nikon) and the two compatibles (Patona) did charge in less than two hrs each, starting from a red blinking status. Satisfactory!
Apparently they stopped including the EH-7P from Z7/Z7II delivered after July 2021, you have to buy it separately...
Will try and report what happens on a car with one of those cigarette-lighter USB ports and a standard USB-C cable, if it works it's a nice feature!
Ciao from Massimo
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I personally use original batteries
I recently bought a new EN-EL 25 battery and noticed that it over performs my oldie that’s 1,5years old and has done 16K shots on my Z50 camera ;D
I am thinking to move to Zfc and have some questions:
Does ZFc have custom banks U1, U2 ?
How is AF performance compared to Z50 is it quicker as I think given the ability to eyeAF on video?
Thanks
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...
I am thinking to move to Zfc and have some questions:
Does ZFc have custom banks U1, U2 ?
How is AF performance compared to Z50 is it quicker as I think given the ability to eyeAF on video?
Thanks
1st question: No, Zfc does not have U1 and U2 custom banks, that's a pity because there was enough room on the dial where you select the exposure modes (currently M, A, S, P, Auto) to add U1 and U2
2nd question: I cannot answer, because I have never used a Z50
Ciao from Massimo
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I'm about to travel a bit in Europe and had decided against taking my D500 with me.
Mainly to cut down on size & weight, but also to avoid having a clearly identifiable camera on me.
Seeing comments on the zfc made me wonder if this might solve this problem as well as easing me into the Z world.
This is maybe a stupid question but, if they don't have a pentaprism, why do the Z range still carry the pyramid on the top?
If it was more rectangular like the "compact" cameras of the past, I might have considered one as an unobtrusive carry-around camera.
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Even an EVF needs optics to function as a traditional viewfinder :) using the rear monitor makes for more awkward handling of the camera + lens, plus it can be hard to see in bright daylight.
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Colin, you are probably away on your European jaunt now, and have made your choice of a travel camera; what camera did you buy for the trip? I sincerely hope it was the tiny, almost pocketable Zfc or something bigger? As a Zfc owner, I can say I'd do it over again if faced with this quandary and it would be a toss up between my Df and my Zfc, were I to travel again, but identifiability would not be part of the decision.
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Hi Kenneth, as it happens I've just travelled back today.
No I didn't buy any new gear and just took my phone.
And of course, saw so many photogenic scenes & subjects!
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Next time, perhaps just the Z fc and the neat Voigtländer 35mm f/1.2 Nokton? a splendid and versatile combination.
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Birna, is this lens available in Z mount?
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Oh yes, very much so. And endearing , too. It has full electronic communication to the camera. The lens is DX, but works well on my Z9. Plenty of examples in the NG Skye/Glen Elg thread.
(I got Grays of Westminster, London to ship the lens to Killin, Scotland so I could pick it up en route to Skye)
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Very nice looking camera lens combination! Being an old Nikon FE and FM3a user, plus a current Df with MF lens fanatic, this combo really resonates with me and I almost purchased this exact setup. Decided to stay full frame though and purchased a Nikon USA refurbished Z6 instead. For now will go with adapted F mount MF Nikkors and Voigtlanders. The newly announced Voigtlander Z mount 50mm F/2 APO Lanthar looks like it would be the ultimate 50mm MF lens for my Z6 albeit a bit pricey. We’ll see - may not be able to resist another GAS attack. :)
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I had a a Zfc for less than a day and found the grip to minimal (I added a grip to my Df).
Are there grip solutions for the Zfc?
Is there word on what is next for the DX line of Z camera?
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For Greg L it is the Z-6 or/and neck strap?
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For me this camera is even more crammed than the Df. No space, nothing to rest my fingers or my eyes on. A FM-D I would buy with no more than the dials and buttons absolutely necessary. Leica created a series of Cameras in that style. I would not even need a display (+3 dioptrien do not help here) and a JPEG engine would not be necessary too. Just RAWs on the street and develop at home as in the olden days. A necessary check and peek and menu operations could be done inside the EVF if necessary, but I only use that for very difficult situations (windy macro ;-) or for FW Updates and general Setup.
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We are different and for me, the Z fc is just about perfect in its handling.
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Birna, may I borrow from you? "We are different, ( Frank,) and for me the Z fc (and Df are) just about perfect. . . "
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@Kenneth. Haha yes. Z6 with a leather strap from Urth. Also Urth Dumb adapter Nikon F to Z, Leica M to Z or Contax G to Z depending which lens I use. These three adapters I mentioned above just arrived in the mail. So far they fit and operate very nicely.
Great that we all can go “digital Leica M” or “digital Contax G” with all these Z cameras !
Eventually will probably buy the FTZ II for my current and future MF Voigtlanders that are chipped lenses. In the meantime, turns out I like using the real aperture ring on my MF Nikkors in combo with Z6 EVF. I’m not going to bother getting my huge stable of MF Nikkors chipped. I think I can live with the damn “F--“. If I understand correctly with the FTZ II and the chipped Voigtlanders I will have to set the lens to the minimum aperture in order to control the aperture from the camera, display the f stop value in the EVF and record it to EXIF. That will be nice but I won’t be able to operate the aperture ring. Boo. Since my DSLRs have an aperture feeler, I can set up the camera (via a menu setting) to control the MF chipped lenses via the camera sub command dial or the aperture ring. Even my F6 SLR allows me to do this ! Oh well. Not a big deal.
Now that I pulled the trigger on the Z6, Nikon will probably come out with a full frame Zf. Then what will I do ! :)
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I noticed while lusting over the Voigtlander Z 50MM F/2 APO Lanthar that all the Z mount MF Voigtlanders have a dedicated metal aperture ring. I’m assuming these will be able to control aperture directly rather than having to set the aperture to minimum setting and control aperture via the camera. If that is the case, this is going to be very bad for my bank savings account balance !
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The aperture ring rotates and sets the value directly. No need to lock at minimum and use a camera dial .....
By the way, at least with the 35/1.2 Nokton, apertures can be set in 1/3 steps, but the read-out allows intermediate settings to the nearest 1/6 of a stop. Thus you'll witness quite unusual f-numbers like 1.9 or 2.1 or 3.1 etc.
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So if I am reading you correctly Birna, the Z-mount Nokton can encode the aperture that is set via the aperture ring on the lens itself, and the electronics of the Z-mount can then transmit the aperture value so chosen on to the camera itself?
Also may the lens be operated where the camera can set the lens aperture as for a lens without an aperture ring?
TIA.
The aperture ring rotates and sets the value directly. No need to lock at minimum and use a camera dial .....
By the way, at least with the 35/1.2 Nokton, apertures can be set in 1/3 steps, but the read-out allows intermediate settings to the nearest 1/6 of a stop. Thus you'll witness quite unusual f-numbers like 1.9 or 2.1 or 3.1 etc.
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Greg, I bought the Urth Contax to F dumb adapter, and was initially Impressed with its smooth focus, but that soon disappeared, and I don't know if it is the 45mm Contax G or the Urth causing the problem, so I will be interested in your Urth experience. In the G1 era, the 45 came in for some less than complimentary comments on its focussing, I believe.
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So if I am reading you correctly Birna, the Z-mount Nokton can encode the aperture that is set via the aperture ring on the lens itself, and the electronics of the Z-mount can then transmit the aperture value so chosen on to the camera itself?
Also may the lens be operated where the camera can set the lens aperture as for a lens without an aperture ring?
TIA.
To the first question, the answer is a resounding YES.
To nest question, it "depends". The lens is 100% manual. Thus you cannot lock the aperture to a minimum value and use the camera dial to set the aperture. At least not with the Z fc. However, trying to operate the lens in such manner defeats its designated purpose :) You are meant to rotate the aperture ring on the lens to any desired setting; thus the Nokton has no similarity with a "G" Nikkor in that regard.
The Viltrox lenses, however, being AF, will work both with the aperture ring *or* the aperture dial on the camera, provided in the latter case you set the aperture ring to "A".
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Greg, I bought the Urth Contax to F dumb adapter, and was initially Impressed with its smooth focus, but that soon disappeared, and I don't know if it is the 45mm Contax G or the Urth causing the problem, so I will be interested in your Urth experience. In the G1 era, the 45 came in for some less than complimentary comments on its focussing, I believe.
I have the 45mm f2 G lens and my experience with the contax g adapter is that it focuses well enough. Remember, these lenses were, in general, not made to be hand focused. They don’t have any focus ring. There is a screw head on the lens that connects to a motor driven screwdriver on the Contax G camera body for autofocusing. The Urth has a screwdriver also and it is driven by turning the adapter focus ring by hand.
I believe any focussing criticisms in the past referred to Autofocus performance.
Manual focus is possible with the Contax G camera bodies but only by moving the small manual focus wheel on the front of the Contax G camera body. Most people just use autofocus mode for focussing and if at all use the manual focus wheel to make tiny adjustments.
This is all in contrast to the Nikkors and the Leica lenses where the adapters have no focus rings and you focus these MF lenses like you always do and continue to enjoy the buttery smooth actions. I would not expect the Urth focuser to be anywhere near as nice of a feel as the Nikkor and Leica focusers which are an integral part of the lens itself.
So as I said above I find the Urth G adapter focus action “acceptable”. Not sure how bad yours is.
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Of course one could get one of these for the complete Contax G experience - on a Z camera!
https://petapixel.com/2021/12/21/techart-releases-first-ever-contax-g-to-nikon-z-autofocus-adapter/
A bit pricey but I’m tempted.
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It makes me weep that although all these third party adapters keep coming out, there is still no nikkor D to Z adapter.
Nikon have obviously said NO to it, and the complication of having to integrate a motor into the adapter obviously puts off third party companies - but still, it’s a shame :-(
But I know people like me are a for ever shrinking voice.
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I'm not joining --- the AF/AFD technology never enamoured me, and despite having several lenses of this kind, I always used them in manual mode.
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It makes me weep that although all these third party adapters keep coming out, there is still no nikkor D to Z adapter.
Nikon have obviously said NO to it, and the complication of having to integrate a motor into the adapter obviously puts off third party companies - but still, it’s a shame :-(
But I know people like me are a for ever shrinking voice.
I would also like to see AF Nikkors being supported by a separate adapter that includes the motor (it can be more expensive than the standard FTZ II). There are unique lenses of this type that could benefit from this. Previously I used to think this would not work well in a mirrorless camera but AF Nikkors work quite well on the D780 in live view so I've changed my mind about it. Nikon used to care about compatibility and customers' investment. Now they just want people to rebuy everything they already had. This is ecologically unsound.
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Well, I am wrong on one basic front at least! I read again my initial reply, and it jumped out at me- I labeled my Urth G adapter G to F, and it is a G to Z- clearly marked and my error! It seems my eighty-two years old fingers and brain had a disagreement. Thank you, Greg. However, that doesn't remove the less than smooth focussing. Techart seem to have produced a useful conversion adapter, but its primary purpose is regaining auto focus, rather than manual focus. When I can no longer trust my eyesight to manually focus And if the new adapter lives up to its claims I would be very interested, as the 45 f2 lens looks like it belongs on the little Nikon body. Presently, I am still embracing Birna's judgement of the Voightlander/Cosina 35 f1.2 manual lens as the one to buy. And it looks/works even better on the Zfc camera.
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Do remember the 35mm f/1.2 is *strictly* manual-focus. However, you do have the help of a green dot/square (depends on the settings) when focus is correct according to the camera's focusing brainpower.
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Birna, are you sure there is a green or red dot focus assist light? I cannot find it, There is no mention of this in the menu that I can see, not even in the menu item"Manual Focus." I need some directions from you, please. Df, for sure, but for Zfc, no as yet. I have been known to be wrong, many times. . . .Does the converter being dumb play a part in this mystery (for me)?
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My Z fc is set up with 'pin point' focus and I do get a green dot when using the Voigtländer 35mm f/1.2. My Viltrox lenses 23mm f/1.4 & 56mm f/1.4, behave in a similar manner.
There is no converter/adapter as all the above lenses have native Z mount.
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Ah, of course, Birna, you are using native Z lenses, whereas I'm using adapted lenses. That is my problem. When I get the f1.2 35mm lens, I too will get a focus dot. My Df was designed to use F system lenses, so no problems there/no adapter.
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By the way, I get the "green dot" with most of my own CPU-modified F lenses as well, even when they are put to use on Z cameras via the FTZ/FTZ II adapters.
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Magic, simply magic, or simply "with most of my own CPU-modified F lenses," Birna's touch, which amounts to the same thing in this case. Magic is a scientific explanation when you understand as little about optics as I do.
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"Any sufficiently advanced technology is indistinguishable from magic" - Arthur C Clarke.
The Voigtlander Z D35mm f/1.2 Nokton looks like the perfect companion for the Zfc. Go for it, Kenneth !
Happy shooting.
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Well, I don't have a green dot, but i have restored smooth as butter focusing! In frustration I separated lens, adapter and Z mount, gave them "a good looking at" and reinstalled the Contax, adapter and Z mount, and voila, smooth as butter focusing again. Hands on science! Simple as putting the screwdriver in the screw slot or whatever.
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The Voigtländer 35/1.2 does tolerably well close-ups, thus adding to its versatility.
Since I prefer small lenses on the Z fc, I signed up for an early bird-offer of the forthcoming Viltrox 13mm f/1.4. Hopefully it'll arrive later this summer, in time for floral abuses :)
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I had similar offer on the new Viltrox 13/1,4 like a 20mm f2 coverage on the Zfc .
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Has anyone tried the Voigtländer 23/1.2?
Seems like this would be a nice combo with the Z fc as well.
Bjorn
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I have the Viltrox 23mm f/1.4, so dropped out on the Voigtländer.
Apparently there is a new generation of excellent optical design for small, high-performance lenses available. Thus many of the reputable makers launch useful products at present. There is the occasional lemon, like the Zhongyi/Mitakon 85/2.8, but fortunately these are the exception not the rule. Of course, if price is very modest, one has to except less than stellar performance.
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Birna, is this little lens labeled a 11 or a 111 model Nokton? It sure is difficult to find it in Canada.
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Here is one option in Canada:
https://bccamera.com/voigtlander-35mm-f1-2-nokton-z-mount/
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THANK YOU, Bjorn.
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Available about fifty kms from my home! No more excuses, money up or shut up now.
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Birna, how do you configure the Z fc to use aperture ring on lens when using CPU lenses?
I find that any CPU F-mount lens (AF, AF-D, manual with CPU added, on FTZ II) requires setting the aperture on the lens to minimum and using the front-dial. The Z fc gives an FEE error otherwise.
On the DSLRs, there's a custom setting (f7-Aperture setting) to control this, but I can't find the same on Z fc. Also the FTZ II manual says to set to minimal as well.
Thanks!
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Birna, how do you configure the Z fc to use aperture ring on lens when using CPU lenses?
I find that any CPU F-mount lens (AF, AF-D, manual with CPU added, on FTZ II) requires setting the aperture on the lens to minimum and using the front-dial. The Z fc gives an FEE error otherwise.
On the DSLRs, there's a custom setting (f7-Aperture setting) to control this, but I can't find the same on Z fc. Also the FTZ II manual says to set to minimal as well.
Thanks!
It may in the controls section of the menu. I vaguely remember there being a setting to use the aperture ring, or a control dial.
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There is no traditional "aperture follower" on the FTZ/FTZ II adapters. Thus, they act as a camera being locked into "G" mode, i.e. aperture is controlled by camera dial(s). If the lens has a CPU. it will be used in "G" mode too.
As a consequence, the aperture ring on the lens should be locked to the minimum value.
An alternative is to keep the small sensing tab on the FTZ permanently pressed in. A small piece of wood (tooth pick) or similar in combination with epoxy glue will solve that issue neatly. An advantage is you now can observe depth-of-field and bokeh at apertures wider than f/5.6. The disadvantage is that you need to have the camera aperture figure to that value or larger, or a wrong exposure will result.
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Thanks Birna, that makes sense to me now. And explains why the custom config is "missing" on the Z bodies. ;)
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An additional piece of information regarding the aperture setting: Bot the Viltrox lenses for DX/Z and now the Voigtländer offerings allow the user to set aperture directly on the lens through the aperture ring there. This is possible because the internal electronics communicate with the camera and inform about the actual setting. In my opinion, this feature gives the user added freedom and versatility. The downside might be that the ultimate exposure accuracy is compromised as the metering partly is conducted with the lens stopped down. I haven't noticed this as a practical issue, though, but it should be mentioned.
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I have the Voigtlander 21mm Ultron f1.8 and the 35mmn Nokton f/1.2 VIII. Both lenses give great results on the Z FC. However, by far my favourite lens thus far on the Z FC is the Jupiter 3 50mm f/1.5. It really is a very special little lens with lovely DOF and it's tiny too so even with the adapter it's still a very compact setup and these lenses can still be had for a fraction of the price of a Voigtlander. I paid £170 for my example. Here's a quick shot of my lovely wife with that lens.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51190996517_40b8b277ab_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kZzeNe)
STUDYING - NIKON Z6 + VINTAGE RUSSIAN JUPITER 3 50MM F/1.5 (https://flic.kr/p/2kZzeNe) by Vintage Photography (https://www.flickr.com/photos/192999178@N02/), on Flickr
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A touch too low-key for my taste but otherwise a lovely portrait!
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A touch too low-key for my taste but otherwise a lovely portrait!
Everyone's computer screen is different, Ian. I'm on a MacBook Pro with the light at max.
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Everyone's computer screen is different, Ian. I'm on a MacBook Pro with the light at max.
For your own use, you can of course use what settings you like but for sharing images with others, it is good to follow standards. There are display calibration tools available for the purpose of matching images across display devices and also between displays and paper. I use xrite i1 Display Pro. The outcome of the calibration may not give a perfect match but it will reduce differences considerably. The target calibration standard can be set in the software (how bright and what color temperature to set to) and the graphic arts industry and television use different standard so there is a bit of a twist there if doing both photos and video.
As it is, your image looks like a dark shadow on devices that are close to the industry standard. Even without a calibration device, you can adjust the screen closer to what is considered standard (using a grayscale bar).
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It is usually beneficial (to the viewers) to cinvert the image to sRGB -- this is like the lowest common denominator for monitors.
Not the space to use for prepress work, of course, but presenting small images on web pages is an entrely different business.
As to the perceived brightness, have a look at the intensity histogram. If there is some information above say RGB 240-245, these areas on the monitor should more or less pure white (or bright red, green, or blue; depending on the actual channel values). If they don't, your monitor is set too dark. RGB 245 should look different to RGB 255, if not, the monitor is too bright. On the other end of the scale, RGB 10+ should be visibly different and don't merge into featureless blacks. If not, your monitor is not bright enough. Then there is the old struggle of gamma wars between Macs and PCs which tend to be less important nowadays, but still using a very low or high gamma leads to viewing troubles for most users. Around 2.2 should be ideal.
The best is of course doing a hardware colour calibration with a dedicated device, no matter what colour space you end up with.
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Am I too late for the party?
Just bought a used copy in excellent condition. Its not the standard panda style but I liked the burnt orange skin it came with. It's a first on many things - first non black camera, mirrorless and retro design.
I still have to set it up including updating firmware as it came with version 1. Any advise on how its best set up?
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A non-Panda Z fc -- nice :)
Unfortunately, only the standard Panda was available when I purchased my Z fc. I had hoped for a pink version.
As to the setting up, may I suggest you use the camera for a while and note what areas of operation require modification. There is no 'one size-fits-all' setup. However, you do need to handle the camera differently from the now ubiquitous DSLR designs based on a protruding thumb rest, which the Z fc lacks. As hands differ between people, each has to find their best way of interfacing hands and camera. I feel very comfortable using the Z fc and in that respect it reminds of the Df.
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Am I too late for the party?
Just bought a used copy in excellent condition. Its not the standard panda style but I liked the burnt orange skin it came with. It's a first on many things - first non black camera, mirrorless and retro design.
I still have to set it up including updating firmware as it came with version 1. Any advise on how its best set up?
Get a different strap, Bern. Lol!
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This was also the first non-Panda Zfc I saw for sale here in the Philippines. I liked the way it fits in my hands,.and it has just enough weight for good handling. The Nikon grip it came with is a nice addition as I transition from a full grip design in a DSLR.
I just finished backreading the whole thread and Ive picked up a few points that will help a lot.
A non-Panda Z fc -- nice :)
Unfortunately, only the standard Panda was available when I purchased my Z fc. I had hoped for a pink version.
As to the setting up, may I suggest you use the camera for a while and note what areas of operation require modification. There is no 'one size-fits-all' setup. However, you do need to handle the camera differently from the now ubiquitous DSLR designs based on a protruding thumb rest, which the Z fc lacks. As hands differ between people, each has to find their best way of interfacing hands and camera. I feel very comfortable using the Z fc and in that respect it reminds of the Df.
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Get a different strap, Bern. Lol!
Good idea, ill look for one then ;D
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Did Birna try the Viltrox 13mm f/1.4 yet?
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Did Birna try the Viltrox 13mm f/1.4 yet?
Oh yes, been with me for a few months already. Excellent optics however substantially bigger than the shorter 23mm sibling of the same lens speed. Still handles very well on the Z fc and is enjoyable on the Z9 (with DX resolution of course, still approx. 20MPix). The electronics work seamlessly with the Z system and AF is pretty fast in particular on the Z9.
I have used the 13/1.4 for IR on my Z5 & Z6 modified cameras and for a change here is a lens that largely avoids hot spots in IR.
I got my 13 Viltrox through a Kickstarter campaign which made the lens quite inexpensive. I'm told current prices are nearly twice that I paid.
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Thank you Birna, prices are at a $400 level now.
I also came across this lens for the Z mount the laowa 10mm f/4
https://dustinabbott.net/2022/07/laowa-10mm-f4-cookie-lens-review/ (https://dustinabbott.net/2022/07/laowa-10mm-f4-cookie-lens-review/)
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Oh, twice the Kickstarter price then. Still not that outrageous for an excellent lens.
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Is it recommended that I update the latest firmware version? My Zfc still has the V1.0 firmware in it
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Yes, definitively.
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Well, since I only use Manual lenses, and since my inheritors have stated that they only have interest in photographic equipment called iPhones, I have to take a "What ,me worry. . . . " attitude and gift my Df and all the f lenses to my grand daughter, in the hope it will spark an interest in the best camera ever created. I doubt there will be any interest in the little ZfC except for my newish Voigtlander f1.2 lens.
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Birna, if you can forgive my Q crashing, in late June you said,"As a consequence, the aperture ring on the lens should be locked to the minimum value.(toothpick technology) Does this apply to users of the Voigtlander Z f1.2 lens also?
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No. None of the "native" Z lenses require this. The Voigtländer 35mm f/1.2 and the Viltrox lenses will set aperture directly if you rotate the aperture ring. They *can* be set to the minimum value (labelled A on the Viltrox) if you really insist to use the camera dial, though.
However, all F-mount lenses mounted via the FTZ/FTZ II require setting aperture to the minimum otherwise the camera will indicate an error. That is, unless you 'fool' the camera using the 'toothpick' technology described earlier.
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Thank you, Birna; I presumed that, but we users just do not know what market share struggles are going on behind the scenes.
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After a few days using the Zfc, it feels substantially lighter than my D600. I now see the reason behind reviewers mentioning it as "too plasticky"
The Nikon Zfc-GR1/ grip has a thumb rest at the back making handling better than a bare Zfc. Its not as substantial as DSLR design though but good enough to improve handling. Third party grip (JJC or Smallrig) does not seem to have this thumb rest.
A non-Panda Z fc -- nice :)
However, you do need to handle the camera differently from the now ubiquitous DSLR designs based on a protruding thumb rest, which the Z fc lacks. As hands differ between people, each has to find their best way of interfacing hands and camera. I feel very comfortable using the Z fc and in that respect it reminds of the Df.
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A few days ago, the v.1.30 firmware update was published
Anyone interested, look here: https://downloadcenter.nikonimglib.com/en/download/fw/472.html (https://downloadcenter.nikonimglib.com/en/download/fw/472.html)
What has been added and/or corrected is (I copy/paste from the above indicated page):
• [Save focus position] and [Recall focus position] have been added to the roles that can be assigned using Custom Setting f2 [Custom controls (shooting)] in the [CUSTOM SETTINGS MENU]. As of November 29, 2022, these options were supported with the following lenses:
- NIKKOR Z 70-200mm f/2.8 VR S
- NIKKOR Z 100-400mm f/4.5-5.6 VR S
- NIKKOR Z 400mm f/2.8 TC VR S
- NIKKOR Z 400mm f/4.5 VR S
- NIKKOR Z 800mm f/6.3 VR S
• The behavior of autofocus during memory recall has been improved to ensure that the focus position will not change in any focus mode even if the shutter-release button is pressed halfway while focus recall is in progress.
• During remote photography with the ML-L7, the camera will now focus with every shot taken with [AF-C] selected for [Focus mode] if [Release] is chosen for Custom Setting a1 [AF-C priority selection] in the [CUSTOM SETTINGS MENU].
• Fixed an issue that sometimes resulted in the settings selected for Custom Setting f2 [Custom controls (shooting)] in the [CUSTOM SETTINGS MENU] not performing as expected in user settings modes.
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If I may, I want to thank you all for a very informative, indeed enjoyable, discussion thus far. (Yes, I've read all of it to this point.)
Like many others, I, too, have been exploring small-ish alternatives to my geriatric Dx bodies and relatively younger Fx camera. For no more reason, then there are occasions I desire something less conspicuous or intrusive. I'm not too concerned about scuffing the cathedral floor and weight is not an issue. But space can be, especially if trying to squeeze a laptop and a "weekend" into the same, unobtrusive, bag. Admittedly, I am also charmed by the retro "panda" designs, not least of all for how well they (or it) purportedly behave with vintage lenses as well as some of the newer purpose-built "glass" coming out of Asia. (And bulls-eye on that point, Birna!)
Again, thanks to all of you for aiding me in keeping my head on my shoulders; my wallet in my pocket.
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I have heard that the ZFC although not having a dial with U1and U2 built into it has these settings buried in the menus? Is this true? Does the Z FC still have these functions available although night with a dial? This is a great thread. Thanks for the all the information regards Gerry.