NikonGear'23
Gear Talk => Camera Talk => Topic started by: MEPER on January 26, 2021, 21:07:13
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I have approx. 10 of these (FT, FTN, FT2) just standing of a shelf. I could use the shelf for other purpose.
I don't have patience to try to sell one by one and also they are close to worthless.
Are there still a small market for film?
If there is I guess a Nikkormat would not be 1. or 2. choice?
So what would you do with these? .....probably not just trash them?
If I should shoot film again I would use a FE2, FM2, F2, F3, F4 .....but not a Nikkormat.
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Some colleges are still teaching film photography.
Maybe your Nikkormats would make a nice class set if you were to donate them - after all not many sources of new film cameras anymore.
The FT3 - the last model - was my favourite Nikkormat.
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Some colleges are still teaching film photography.
Maybe your Nikkormats would make a nice class set if you were to donate them - after all not many sources of new film cameras anymore.
The FT3 - the last model - was my favourite Nikkormat.
The Nikkormat series are fine professional film cameras. In the day many professional photographers owned a Nikkormat FTn or FT2 for the faster 1/125 second X-Sync. My first serious camera was a Nikkormat FTn which I soon sold to my father so I could buy a used Nikon F with a 135/2.8 Nikkor-Q. I quicly traded the 135/2.8 for a 105/2.5 Nikkor-P.
One issue with earlier Nikkormat(s) is probably a battery for the meter as the FTn used a Mercury battery but if students are using these cameras for learning film photography a hand held light meter would be a good learning tool. The Nikkormat FT3 probably uses the S-76 battery which last I checked was still available. The Nikkormat FT3 accepts all (or almost all) F-Bayonet Nikkor lenses from 1959 through AI-S, AF and AF-D Nikkors. The Nikkormat(s) had a mechanical mirror lockup so they probably accept lenses like the 21cm f/4.0 Nikkor-O. The FT3 had a flip up meter coupling lever to accept pre-AI Nikkors. Stop down metering was available for the FNn through FT3.
I have fond memories of the Nikormat(s) and wish I owned one today. If I had the time and money I'd shoot Tri-X and I'd love to print B&W again in a classic wet darkroom.
Dave
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I do think that there are buyers for these nice cameras.
A Facebook exists in Denmark for analog photography, must be some there that would like one of these nice cameras.
I have one myself, but don’t get a lot of use these days.
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Ok....I will check with Facebook.....if that is possible with no profile.......
Maybe I will find others which finds those cameras useful.
There are no FT3 among them. There is one EL2 but don't think this is a Nikkormat.....
Some of the Nikkormats has developed a slow 1, 1/2, 1/4 sec......and probably the foam has to be exchanged of some of them.
Therefor one which has a hobby to CLA these could be nice. Maybe the analog Facebook group has a person in the group that can do this.
Think I also have some "repair sets" of foam for Nikkormats I got some years back.....
The old foam transforms to some nasty "glue like" mess....
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There is one EL2 but don't think this is a Nikkormat.
Nikkormat EL, EL-W and EL2 models were sold in the US. The Nikon EL2 was the same basic body as the Nikkormat EL-W. The Nikkormat EL was Nikon's first Aperture Preferred auto exposure camera. I owned a Nikon EL2. It was an AI era camera with SBC metering cells and it had a flip up meter coupling lever so pre-AI Nikkor could be used.
Dave
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Yes, it has that lever. It as repaired on my EL2 by the top Nikon repair person here where I live on a private basis after he retired.....then foam etc. as also changed. So this camera is in good condition.
It has the battery inside the mirror box in the bottom. Not very practical......
Then it has a battery check push button at the rear......and it seems there is an attachment for a drive......
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OK.....yes.....lift up for the AI-coupling.......I miss-interpreted this for the mirror lift up arm.......
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There is also a Nikkormat EL.....just checked.....
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Yes there is a Nikkormat EL, it was called Nikomat EL for certain markets.
As David mentions, the Nikon EL2 is basically a Nikkormat EL with the then new ai coupling.
There was also a Nikkormat ELW, with couplings for the AW-1 winder. The EL2 had the same couplings.
I have a black Nikon EL2 in very nice condition on permanent display, IMHO one of the better looking Nikons.
https://imaging.nikon.com/history/chronicle/cousins08-e/index.htm
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It has the battery inside the mirror box in the bottom. Not very practical......
Then it has a battery check push button at the rear......and it seems there is an attachment for a drive......
I'm trying to remember the battery. It was a 6v silver oxide battery that may have contained four S-76 batteries in a metal sleeve. I used to buy the 6v battery and peal it open carefully with needle nose pliers to get four S-76 batteries at a savings for other cameras. :)
The Nikkormat EL-W and Nikon EL2 accepted a 1 frame per minute second auto winder.
Dave
Nikkormat EL Series by Nikon at Photography in Malaysia (https://www.mir.com.my/rb/photography/hardwares/classics/nikkormat/elseries/index.htm)
Nikkormats - Preface at Photography in Malaysia (https://www.mir.com.my/rb/photography/hardwares/classics/nikkormat/index.htm)
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I still have a battery for the EL/EL2. It is a Varta V28PXL Lithium (6V).
I don't have the motor drive. A MD-12 for the FE2 will probably not fit but it has a nice sound :-)
A classic sound but probably not as classic as the F3 with MD4 :-)
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The Nikkormat EL-W and Nikon EL2 accepted a 1 frame per minute auto winder.
It was actually 60 times faster than that 8)
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It was actually 60 times faster than that 8)
Got it. :-[
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Varta still sells V28PX (silver) and V28PXL (Lithium) batteries so the Nikkormat EL, EL-W and Nikon EL-2 cameras can still be powered up. Without a battery the Nikon EL2 defaults to 1/90 sec.
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Yes, that is an advantage for the EL's that a battery is available. For the older Nikkormats only 1.5V (and not 1.35V) is available.....unless a special adapter is used.....
Think the old batteris contained quicksilver which was forbidden......back then.....
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Damn! I want a Nikkormat FT3 and Nikon EL2 with AW-1 winder. No money. :(
I only owned the Nikkormat FT3 for a few days. I developed a technique with the Nikon F2 of putting slight pressure on the film advance lever. As soon as the shutter was released film advance would begin. With the FT3 this did not happen. Worse pressure had to be released from the advance lever before it could be stroked. This was a technique I used in PR photography to get a second or third shot off quickly. The FT3 was messing with my reflexes so I sold it.
Dave
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If you were in the US, I'd suggest that LeZot camera, in Vermont, might have some interest. They do a small business in refurbished and reskinned cameras, and I think Nikkormats are one they do. I suspect they don't pay much for the originals, and probably not enough to make shipping worthwhile, but as a long shot you might try them. http://lezot.com/
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Yes, the FT2 and the FT3 Nikkormats thankfully both use the silver oxide S76 batteries that are still available.
A good repair man can convert the FTn Nikkormats to use the 1.5 Volt silver cells and recalibrate the meter which has the same part number as the meters in the FT2 and FT3 Nikkormats.
For a while there was a silver oxide version (SX625) of the PX625 1.35 Volt mercury oxide cell, so the battery chamber did not need to be altered - however a straight physical size adapter in plastic is easy enough to fabricate.
The gadgets that take a silver oxide cell and drop the voltage to 1.35 volts with a germanium diode do not deliver a stable voltage like a cell of the correct voltage - their output voltages are current draw dependent.
Wein air cells that deliver a stable 1.35 Volts are another way to go - if the air cell is resealed after use, their lifetime may be extended. However they DO NOT last as long as the good old mercury or silver oxide cells.
(Yes, I plead guilty, I too have a Nikkormat collection - the only camera collection that I have as such. Even have the old FS with no meter and the early FT without Automatic Indexing. The simple Nikkormat with its Copal shutter was a pretty tough customer. Its metering circuit was simple and worked well, but the more complex balanced bridge metering circuit arrangement of the Pentax Spotmatics of the day were much less dependent on a stable voltage source, so switching from 1.35 volt to 1.5 volts is of little issue for them.)
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One issue with earlier Nikkormat(s) is probably a battery for the meter as the FTn used a Mercury battery but if students are using these cameras for learning film photography a hand held light meter would be a good learning tool. The Nikkormat FT3 probably uses the S-76 battery which last I checked was still available.
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Dave
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I've never done a Nikkormat, but the F's FTn meter is not hard to adjust.There are two potentiometers within, one for the meter and one for the battery indicator, and they're slightly interdependent. There may be some argument about how perfect a mere adjustment is at all stops and speeds, but since the F's usual lenses and shutter speeds operate in full stops, and the center weighted meter is not super-precise anyway, I found it was easy to get well within range for film.
For calibration I used a fairly new Minolta X-370 which always delivered extremely good exposures, and since I could set up both the Minolta and a Nikon on a tripod with comparable 50 mm. lenses, aimed at an evenly lit beige wall, I just duplicated the Minolta's readings. To account for any non-linearity at extremes, I set the exposure at a low ISO (probably 100), and a shutter speed and aperture more or less in the middle range. There are likely fancier and more scientific ways to do this, but I got my three FTN's to read repeatably within 1/3 stop of each other and the Minolta, and they delivered good slide exposures for years.
You have to take the leather skin off the finder to get the top cover off. My favorite glue for putting it back is a craft glue similar to white glue sticky when wet, and more flexible when dry. In the US, the stuff I like is "Aleene's Tacky Glue." It holds up well, but is easy to remove without tearing or residue if need be. I originally recalibrated all my FTn's for silver oxides, back when you could still get the large ones.
What I don't know is how the battery box of a Nikkormat compares. The F used two batteries, and the positive contact is not at the end but the side. Because of this, you cannot adapt smaller batteries with an o-ring or plastic sleeve (as you can on, for example, a Pentax Spotmatic), but must use a conductive ring. You can fudge it with aluminum foil too, but for a more secure connection, a fitted metal ring works best. I have seen somewhere the suggestion of taking the shell of a larger cell (obviously not a mercury one) and fitting the smaller battery inside that.
You can also use alkaline cells if need be, but as everyone knows, they don't retain their voltage after a certain point, but if you calibrate for 1.5 volts, and the cells are fresh, they'll last a while, and the battery indicator should tell you when they've dropped.
Although it's pretty simple once you look inside, I used to have a link to a web page with instructions for calibrating the FTn, but I don't think it survived a recent computer crash that obliterated my hard drive. If need be, though, I might be able to find a copy somewhere, as I did back some stuff up.
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If you were in the US, I'd suggest that LeZot camera, in Vermont, might have some interest. They do a small business in refurbished and reskinned cameras, and I think Nikkormats are one they do. I suspect they don't pay much for the originals, and probably not enough to make shipping worthwhile, but as a long shot you might try them. http://lezot.com/
Thank you!
I will try to find something similar here in DK that like to restore/CLA those cameras.
By the way I had a Nikkormat that was branded Nikomat like the one at the top here:
http://www.mir.com.my/rb/photography/companies/nikon/htmls/models/htmls/slr7577.htm
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The Nikomat bramding was for the Japanese and other Asian markets; Nikkormat was the branding for everyone else. Otherwise identical.
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A full collection of Nikkormats/Nikomats would be 30 items. You have to account for the chrome and black version, some Nikkormats don't have the Nikomat variant, and the nameplate reads "Nikon".
So you would have
Nikkormat Fs, FT, FTn, FT2, FT3, EL, ELw: 7 models, 4 variants each (Nikkormat black & chrome, Nikomat black & chrome)
Nikkormat EL2: 2 variants (black & chrome, branded Nikon)
The winder for the Nikkormat EL-2 is labelled Nikon AW-1. Really slow, you could be 2x faster with your thumb!
Nikomats were identical to Nikkormats, except for the nameplate, they were for the japanese market only.
Ciao from Massimo
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Model Start # End # St.Date End Date Quant. MIN Obs MAX Obs Notes
Nikkormat FS 7400001 75xxxxx jul-65 sep-67 100K 7406542 7410036
Nikkormat FT 3100001 32xxxxx jul-65 aug-67 100K 3126066 3199089
Nikkormat FTN 3500001 47xxxxx oct-67 mar-75 900K 3517637 4718123
Nikkormat FT2 5000001 54xxxxx mar-75 jun-77 300K 5254701 5439479
Nikkormat FT3 6000001 62xxxxx jun-77 oct-79 200K 6012854 6149756 Ai mount
Nikkormat EL 5100001 xxxxxxx nov-72
Nikkormat ELW 7500001 xxxxxxx feb-76
Nikkormat EL2 7800001 xxxxxxx may-77 sep-80 Ai mount
The above table is what I was able to find on the Web related to Nikkormat production dates and serial numbers.
You can compare your own serials, eventually the documented minumum and maximum serial numbers can be greatly improved.
Ciao from Massimo
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As all the "Nikkormat" models were sold as "Nikomat" (and thus engraved as such on their front panels) in Japan, the foreign models were regarded as rarities here during the film days.
Nikon used "Nikkormat" name for the affordable series for the foreign market was probably to take the advantage of the popularity of Nikkor lenses.
Were the Fuji Natura films still available, I would have liked to have a Nikkormat (or Nikomat) for the color negative UV photography. Preferably FS.
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Were the Fuji Natura films still available, I would have liked to have a Nikkormat (or Nikomat) for the color negative UV photography. Preferably FS.
The FS is the rarest model, being really basic it was easily trashed when it broke, so few FS cameras remain. Nowadays it's the one most sought by collectors. To avoid paying a premium, you could stick to the FT, which has more reasonable prices.
Ciao from Massimo
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The FS is the rarest model, being really basic it was easily trashed when it broke, so few FS cameras remain. Nowadays it's the one most sought by collectors. To avoid paying a premium, you could stick to the FT, which has more reasonable prices.
Ciao from Massimo
You are right, Massimo. If I remember correctly, FS is essentially FT without meter.
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There ar a number of Nikkormats for sale on the Blå Avis, so you may get some money to use on the new Z system ;)
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I think the price for a body alone is quite low so I think more fun to give them to some "enthusiasts". Let us see what happens :-)
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Here's another question on meters. I've used various cameras that took mercury batteries, and the results varied so much that I can't entirely predict results, but on at least a couple that used a single cell, it was possible to offset the ASA enough to compensate the meter for a higher voltage, without running out of room for normal speed films. For reasons I can't quite fathom, some two-cell cameras were further off. So, for example, the old Konica FT took something like 4x offset, and even with hearing aid batteries was off by 2/3 of a stop. Fortunately that one had an ASA dependent battery test too, so all you'd have to do with any battery was to adjust it until the test needle was centered. The F doesn't work that way, and my recollection is that without compensation it was about 3 stops off. It might be possible to fit a Nikkormat with modern batteries and see how much offset is needed, and just tell future users either to offset the ASA setting, or if that's impossible, to compensate by a set amount.
When I was regularly using the Konica FT3, I just had a little stickon label on the back to remind me how to set it.
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When I used the Nikkormats I used a Sekonic hand hold light meter. Probably the most safe to do. I also had a Cosina-Voigtländer light meter to put into the hot-shoe.
But or course always nice with a coupled ligt meter.
Apart from that I can see I have some nice Nikkormat accessories like an angle viewer. Think this one fits other bodies as well. Not only Nikkormats. The quality is very nice and I keep those.....
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The right angle attachment fits all the threaded low eyepoint finders, F Photomics, F2, and the F3 without the high eyepoint, and will go in threaded adapters for later ones. You can even get a thread to slip-on adapter to put this or the magnifying finder on lower end finders, but none that I know of for the early F plain prism.
The slip on adapters are made of plastic and they break very easily. The little plastic latches break off and they then become loose and easily lost.
The right angle finder is also pretty dim, so it doesn't work terribly well with dim fixed-aperture macro lenses, microscope objectives and the like.
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I also doubt I will ever use the right angle attachment but it is very well made. On digital cameras you just use the flip out screen so no need for an angle attachment.
Can see I also have a Nikkormat Microscope adapter Kit model 2. So why they are called "Nikkormat" when they can be used with all other F-mount cameras I don't know. This kit is also just some "collectors item" I guess. I have no microscope to use it on. But again a very nice and well made adapter.
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If you dont want to sell them one by one, try to sell them as a package (ie at Ebay for 1 Euro and shipping cost) or donate them. I am sure there will be someone who wants to have them and its a better solution than considering trashing them.
My first camera was a Nikkormat FTN btw (still sitting around there with some other currently unused film cameras waiting for their time to come again - and I probably will get in the right mood when I have more time again).
I'd like to adress one advantage the Nikkormat Series have (at least the FT series- dont know about the EL right now), their mirror can be flipped up and fixed. Therefore they can take the old (non retrofocus design) fisheyes and wide angles even including the old 21 mm f/4 which is incompatible with modern bodies. (yes the older parts of the NIkon F series can do the same). The Nikkormats dont have a flash shoe but as an accessory a eyepiece screw in holder that can take a flash unit (without contacts of course) and the finders that came with the old fisheyes.
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Can see I also have a Nikkormat Microscope adapter Kit model 2. So why they are called "Nikkormat" when they can be used with all other F-mount cameras I don't know. This kit is also just some "collectors item" I guess. I have no microscope to use it on. But again a very nice and well made adapter.
Nice, did not know that a Kit like that existed
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The right angle viewing attachment show above will fit the Nikon F, F2 and F3 (DE-2) as well as the Nikkormat FTn through Nikon EL2 and I'm quite certain back to the Nikkormat FT. As I recall the image size was reduced in magnification. If the camera had a light meter its operation was not affected. It will also fit the Nikon FM and FE family of cameras including the FM2n, FE2 and FM3a. A camera repairman friend opened an FM3a and confirmed that it was NOT and FM series camera but rather an FE2 with a hybrid shutter and a few extra buttons for back light compensation, etc. Anyway the right angle finder is close to universal among better Nikon cameras over a span of years.
The Nikon F may have had a 6x waist level finder but my guess is it was only seen in prototype. The Nikon F2, DW-2 finder fit the Nikon F perfectly if the name plate was removed from either the DW-2 finder or Nikon F body. The Nikon F family of 6x waist level finders are the DW-2, DW-4, DW-21, DW-31 suitable for the F2 through F5. I still own the DW-2 though DW-31.
Anyway the right angle finder show above was near universal for better Nikon cameras. It will not fit the high eyepoint cameras such as the F3HP, F4/F4s and F5. There may have been a threaded adapter ring to allow its use on the high eyepoint Nikon F cameras noted.
I owned one of the right angle accessory attachment but never liked it probably due to the reduced viewfinder image magnification. I probably went out and bought a DW-2, 6x finder for my F2 the same day I learned of its existence. The DW-2 and DW-4 showed significant barrel distortion. The DW-21 and DW-31 were much improved regarding distortion.
Dave
Do I get a prize for Nikon Trivia? :D
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The angle finder does present a very small image, as well as dropping some light. It's better than nothing at all if you have no tilt screen, but not a whole lot better.
WRT the microscope adapter, there may be various other little macro lenses that can be adapted to fit in it, so even if you don't have a microscope it might be useful to keep around. I have a Konica one with a Nikon flange bodged on, which I use regularly with a batch of Compugraphic typesetting lenses I picked up long ago from a forgotten source, some of which are nice and sharp and fairly easy to use freehand.
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Here is the DW-2, 6x waist level viewfinder for the Nikon F and F2. The DW-2 and later Nikon 6x waist level finders give a beautiful finder image that is bright and appears like a 5x7 in. (12.7x17.8cm) focus screen...
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50885293557_ec0ca6d6af_m.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kwyqXx)
Nikon DW-2, 6x finder (https://flic.kr/p/2kwyqXx) (https://www.flickr.com/photos/41252996@N08/)
The DW-4, 6x finder for the F3 is similar to the DW-2. The Nikon F3 retains all of its metering functions when the DW-4 is in use as the F3's metering is inside the body. The DW-21 and DW-31 for the F4/F4s/F4e and F5 are much improved with reduced barrel distortion. Matrix and center weighted metering is lost for all but the F3 as its meter is in the body, not the prism.
Thank you! MILLIREHM for information regarding the F4/F4s/F4e. I've tapped Photography in Malaysia for information about the F5. The F4 series and the F5 have spot metering in the body but they loose Matrix and Center Weighted metering when the DW-21 or DW-31 are installed as those meter features are built in the prism.
Dave, AKA Sgt. Ektol :D
I rewrote this post as it was quite the mess. :o
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F4/F4S/F4E has Matrix and center weighted meeting in the "photomic" and Spot metering in the body, so spot metering still works with the DW21
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F4/F4S/F4E has Matrix and center weighted meeting in the "photomic" and Spot metering in the body, so spot metering still works with the DW21
Thank you for the correction!
I have not owned an F4/F4s for perhaps two decades and I don't think I've shot film since buying a D2H on close out.
So the F4/F4s/F4e retains spot metering when the DW-21 is installed as spot metering is in the body, not the prism.
The F5 also retains Spot metering when the DW-31 is used as the spot meter is in the body.
Dave
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Regarding the Nikkormat microscope adapter Model 2 kit I have I think I know why a speciel Nikkormat kit existed along with a F-kit. The F-kit has a focus screen included and that would make no sense for a Nikkormat. The adapter in Nikkormat kit is just Nikon branded while the other seems to have the nice F-logo also :-) .....I have the "cheap" version......
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Here is a lot of information on Nikon Microscope Adapters and accessories at Photography in Malaysia...
https://www.mir.com.my/rb/photography/hardwares/classics/nikonf2/macro/index4.htm
Is this the focus screen not included in the Nikkormat kit: Nikon F/F2 Type-C fine ground matte screen with clear center spot and cross hair? The clear spot and cross hair is for parallax focusing in photomicrography and astrophotography. About $16.00 at KEH.com as I type.
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Just for reference, here is the Konica version: http://www.buhla.de/Foto/Konica/Zubehoer/eMikroskopadapter.html
It's pretty simple, and it's very easy to replace the Konica bayonet with one from some junk bit of F-mount gear. It works OK in a microscope, though not with full sensor coverage, and splendidly as a macro mount for lenses that fit in it.
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If I should shoot film again I would use a FE2, FM2, F2, F3, F4 .....but not a Nikkormat.
For manual focus the FE2, FM2n and similar have a 0.86x finder magnification with a 50mm lens at infinity. The FM3a has a touch relaxed eyepoint and a finder magnification of 0.83x. The F3 (DE-2 Prism) is the most comfortable for me. I can see the complete focus screen with my glasses on. The F3 has a finder magnification of 0.80x.
Your top picks might be the F3 (DE-2) or FM3a if you like to focus on a matte focus screen like a Type-B or E. If flash sync speed matters the FM3a has an X-Sync of 1/250 (Probably 1/230 in reality). I'm trying to remember the F3, was it 1/80th? I'm pretty sure it's 1/80th.
Dave
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My first Nikon camera was a FE2 and I used it for many years. I got a MD12 for it also. I remember I found the F3 as a step-back from the FE2 because of the low flash sync and 1/2000 compared to 1/4000 sec. But the F3 of course has some advantages like probably better mirror flip-up damping and the trigger is also very nice on a F3. Then the F4 came and I just looked at it from outside the window at a camera shop. It had everything I had hoped for but the price level was for me at that time "out of reach". Some years later I got a nice used F4s and that was my "dream camera". Never got a F5. The F, F2, F3 I got later was "just for fun". I do remember the trigger on the F3 so be very nice and special. HP viewfinder also nice. FE2 very compact and for tripod use with mirror lock-up I just used the "self timer" and pulled it a bit out to a few seconds. Then when trigger was released the mirror flipped up and 2-3 sec. later film was exposed. Some blamed the camera that you could not "break" the self-timer after it was activated but I used this "flaw" as a very nice feature. Much easier than a real "mirror lockup" mechanism. Also the camera made its exposure calculation during activation of the trigger and used that a few sec. later. Light could change a bit but I never found that as a problem.
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A counter indication for the Nikon FM2n and FE2 is the sound level, sharp, loud. The F3, F4 and F5 are all much easier on the ears. I don't remember the Nikkormat FTn, FT2 and FT3 nor the Nikon F. I'm sure the F2 was on the harsh side compared to the F3 and later.
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The F2 is loud especially with the Motordrive, the F4 is not silent but sounds less metallic. MD12 especially made FM2/FE2 very loud.
Also never got an F5, I was disappointed by the new ergonomics. Took me five years (after 1988) to get a used F4, it did an extreme price leap compared to F3 and was too expensive for me to buy new
What I liked with the F2 and the Nikkormat is that they were able to take the AR-1 soft touch release - for me still the best way to release the shutter although not Giugiaro design.
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Keep all the Nikkormats! My personal opinion is that they all are really nice to look at. I also have some of them, and will "newer" let them go.
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I wonder if there is still companies like Kodak and Fuji that spends money and time to develop new films?
Or has development stopped completely?
The E100 (Ektachrome) that is advertised here as "new":
https://imaging.kodakalaris.com/photographers-photo-printing/film/color
.....is that just a "remake" of the old Ektachrome or is it a new variant?
Since Kodak decides to add this film it must be because there is a demand for it?
So Kodak not totally "dead" it seems.....
Ektachrome and Nikkormat could be a good match!
I only have chrome Nikkormats......no blacks. I was never able to get a black that looked good.....only have a "hot shoe" in black.
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Ok......the news is only that E100 is available in 120 and sheet's......so not really something new......
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I wonder if there is still companies like Kodak and Fuji that spends money and time to develop new films? ... Or has development stopped completely?
If developments affecting the price of silver continue as expected mortals may not be able to buy silver based photographic films.
Dave
I thought Kodak only made picante sauce, skins for phones and generic drugs.
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+1
My first SLR was an FTn and the second was an FT3. Both still usable and the FT3 with its Ai lens mount especially so.
Keep all the Nikkormats! My personal opinion is that they all are really nice to look at. I also have some of them, and will "newer" let them go.
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As a technical point of view it would be interesting to know how far film could have developed today if there was same demand as 25-30 years back.
Would we have an ISO800 RMS 4 Provia?
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As a technical point of view it would be interesting to know how far film could have developed today if there was same demand as 25-30 years back.
Would we have an ISO800 RMS 4 Provia?
Not sure if there have been advancements in the basic technologies used in film production. Digital sensors definitely improve on flatness and alignment as well as image stabilization and ability to adjust to different lighting conditions.
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FE2 very compact and for tripod use with mirror lock-up I just used the "self timer" and pulled it a bit out to a few seconds. Then when trigger was released the mirror flipped up and 2-3 sec. later film was exposed. Some blamed the camera that you could not "break" the self-timer after it was activated but I used this "flaw" as a very nice feature. Much easier than a real "mirror lockup" mechanism. Also the camera made its exposure calculation during activation of the trigger and used that a few sec. later. Light could change a bit but I never found that as a problem.
I have the same experience with my FE2, used the self-timer as a type of mirror lockup regularly. A great camera.
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A counter indication for the Nikon FM2n and FE2 is the sound level, sharp, loud.
Possibly due to the fast flash-sync speed (1/250 sec), it was the fastest shutter when introduced. With a slower shutter it is probably easier to dampen the sound. The FM3a is quieter, and a little more refined all-round compared to the FE2.
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In 1982 the FM2 stole the show with having the fastest shutter; 1/4000s top speed and 1/200s flash sync. In 1983 the FE2 arrived with a slightly faster 1/250s flash sync and a honeycomb patterned shutter. In 1984 the FM2 was succeeded by the FM2n with also 1/250s flash sync, this shutter did however not have the honeycomb pattern. The FA from 1983 has the FE2-type shutter.
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I have two FM2n. One with the honeycomb shutter and one without. The one without is the most recent. It seems the first FM2n that came out had the nice Titanium? honeycomb shutter.
There was some discussion which was best and if it was to save money they put another shutter in. The never shutter is probably aluminium?
The honeycomb shutter looks better.....
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I think the honeycomb shutter is titanium. To achieve a very fast shutter speed and x-sync, the shutter blades had to be as light as possible. The blades were made very thin with some thicker sections to make them strong enough, which gives the honeycomb pattern.
Nikon later found a way to make an aluminium shutter that was durable enough to withstand the high acceleration and deceleration of the fast shutter. Aluminium is cheaper and easier to fabricate, so it replaced the titanium shutter. But yes, the titanium does look better :)
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I have two FM2n. One with the honeycomb shutter and one without. The one without is the most recent. It seems the first FM2n that came out had the nice Titanium? honeycomb shutter.
There was some discussion which was best and if it was to save money they put another shutter in. The never shutter is probably aluminium?
The honeycomb shutter looks better.....
Mine has the "flat" shutter; the honeycomb is indeed the nicest looking shutter.
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In 1982 the FM2 stole the show with having the fastest shutter; 1/4000s top speed and 1/200s flash sync. In 1983 the FE2 arrived with a slightly faster 1/250s flash sync and a honeycomb patterned shutter. In 1984 the FM2 was succeeded by the FM2n with also 1/250s flash sync, this shutter did however not have the honeycomb pattern. The FA from 1983 has the FE2-type shutter.
On the test bench I've see X-sync speeds of about 1/180th and 1/230th second for the FM2 and FM2n/FE2 respectively. I believe these are within ANSI (or whoever's) specs. I don't remember the fastest shutter speed but they might have been 1/3200th to 1/3800th second. The decades have rolled by and my friend at who's shop I did my testing died in 2015. I don't have notes.
Dave
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Interesting were also the differences between the various motordrives for the FM/FE/FA family of cameras. I bought a MD11 for my first Nikon, a black FE, but exchanged it immediately for the MD12 when that one came out. The MD11 had the nasty habit of draining the cells in the camera body when not switched off, it happened to me a few times. The MD12 had a power-saving circuit, it switched off after 60s. The MD4 for the F3 and the MD15 for the FA both had an even nicer feature; the batteries in the motordrive powered the camera body as well. Never was a depleted camera body battery cell an issue anymore.
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The MD11 had the nasty habit of draining the cells in the camera body when not switched off, it happened to me a few times.
I have a Nikon MD-11 if you are suffering pangs of nostalgia. :D
Dave
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I also used FE2 with MD12. Was a nice setup. Rollei made a large flash called 36 RE with flash bracket. This setup could impress many.....and looked good with an AI'ed 85/1.8 H-C on the body. Nice grip on such a flash and good to have the flash a distance from lens.
Later I got a SB-15 and also a SB-11 (still have those). Think the Rollei flash was very "iconic".
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Rollei made a large flash called 36 RE with flash bracket.
I understand one could light up a forest with the Rollei E36-RE. I never tried but I did use one in my PR photograph. I traded my E36-RE for an ACOR Candid, fool! >:(
The E36-RE used NiCad batteries so I wonder how one would power one up today. i remember a two part battery pack in clear blue plastic shrink covering. Maybe sub-C units?
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The E36-RE used NiCad batteries so I wonder how one would power one up today. i remember a two part battery pack in clear blue plastic shrink covering. Maybe sub-C units?
NiCd batteries have a 1.2V nominal voltage, you can exchange it with a NiMH battery which has the same nominal voltage (and more mAh per unit volume), or you can put in a Li-Ion (or LiFePO4 or whatever) as a replacement for 3 niCds, with two dummy batteries (essentially a cable pass-through, no power) + 1 Li-Ion battery
NiCd ==> 1.2 x 3 = 3.6V (nominal),
Li-Ion ==> 3.7V (nominal)
Li-Ions have even more mAh per unit volume, so you have room to host a Li-Ion battery pack inside a NiCd battery pack.
Ciao from Massimo
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mxbianco,
I don't remember how the batteries in the E36 RE where charged. I wonder if NiMH batteries that have the same dimensions are available? If so battery packs could be made to fit in the handle of the E36 RE. It's been many years since I owned the E36 RE.
I'm curious about buying a used E36 RE. They must be dirt cheap. I haven't thought about the Rollei E36 RE in years. It was sure stupid of me to trade it for an ASCOR Candid as the recycle time of the ASCOR was quite useless for the PR photograph for which I would have used it. I don't even know how I disposed of the ASCOR. I must have traded it in at a camera store.
The Auto Thyristor flash of the day was a thing of wonder! I remember the Vivitar 292. Don't think I ever owned one. Then came the hugely popular Vivitar 283 and 285 auto thyristor units. The 283(s) and 285(s) made in Japan for the US company Vivitar were rock solid.
Dave
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The E36 RE was charged via a connector at the back of the flash head as I remember it. A charger to put into the mains was included.
I think the NiCd battery pack in my unit was replaced once. I remember the small orange lamp that was also a push button to test fire the flash. It was quite fast to recycle.
I remember there was also a small photo sensor unit you could put into the flash shoe on camera if you angled the flash. There I think SB-11 was a bit smarter as photo sensor always pointed at "target" even if you angled the head.
Yes, the E36 RE must be very cheap today......almost "free of charge" :-)